|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Chiusa Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag|
|21 R|| ★ The Ferrets Are Coming
Once graded 17! 21 for tall people and/or topropers. Fiddly to protect.
Start 7m left of 'Craddock Crack' and head up left leaning crack before moving back right.
FA: Peter Watson & Mike Law, 1976
|20|| ★ Brit Milah
High traverse that circumscribes the wall above 'Deck Games'. The original purpose of the 'mystery' bolt.
Start at the top of 'Deck Gully' at the obvious traverse line. There is gear that protects the step out to clip the bolt. Scamper along the traverse line clipping a bolt on Gordy's route till you get to the front of the block. up and belay.
FA: Mark Wood, Ben Storey & Steve Wilson, 9 Lug 2011
|21|| ★ Sagittarian Variant Start
Start as for Slip Knot and head up left to the bolt on Sagittarian. Easier and better than the original.
FA: 1 Gen 2014
|20|| ★★★ Little Thor
The lovely right-facing flake corner bordering the left side of the great blankish north-west wall. It's a pity that it gets heavily top-roped.
Climb the right-facing corner with hard moves past the little roof then keep cranking up slightly left to the top. Gear has a habit of unzipping on people; consider placing a directional at the start and being generous with the draws.
FA: Ian Guild & Peter Smith, 1965
FFA: Ian Lewis & Joe Friend, 1974
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Chiusa Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder|
|V1|| V1 Problem (a)
|V1|| ★ V1 Problem (b)
|V2|| ★★ S
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall|
|21||★ Oogie Boogie
A pair of weaknesses lead to a bulge, which succumbs to a layback/mantle. Start just R of Sausage Of The Century.
FA: Mark Barnett & Rod Young, 1981
|20||★ The Wizard of Id
Steep jugs, crack, face. Start R of OB, just L of overhangs, beneath small flake on bulge.
FA: Rod Young & Mark Barnett, 1981
Past the alarming jammed blocks forming a roof, R and up weakness past ledge to top.
Start under the jammed blocks in the overhangs R of 'The Wizard Of Id'.
FA: Rod Young & Mark Barnett, 1981
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall|
|20||★★ Christian Crack
Excellent sustained climbing up the line with great pro. A borderline classic. There are two striking cracks on the wall on the left side of 'Colosseum Wall' - this is the left one.
FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966
FFA: Joe Friend, 1974
Start just R of 'The Rack' and go up past the BR.
FA: Russell Chudleigh, 1984
The steep corner.
Start 6m R of Nero.
FA: Fred Langenhorst & Bruno Zielke, 1969
FFA: Andrew Thomson, 1977
|20||I've Got A Big Honker
The usual claim of those who don't...
Start 8m R of FM. To break (wire on left), then right to bulge.
FA: Sam Blainey & Andrew White, 1991
|21||People Called Romans, They Go The 'Ouse
Up the wall 1m right of corner 10m right of 'Welease Bwian'. Continue up crack from ledge at 3/4 height.
FA: Hoskins, G. Jones & Smith, 1996
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Pimple|
|21||Squeeze Me Gently
The arete, veering L.
Start: Start where the E face meets the N face.
FA: Ian Anger & James Falla, 1986
Try and find this one, I dare you.
Start: South of the 'Pimple', across the vegetated gully is a short grotesquely overhung wall and right of this a small wall behind a large boulder. On this wall is a big detached flake, forming a ledge. Start at the lowest point of the ledge.
FA: Smith, Bride & Pritchard, 1996
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls|
|21||★ Controlled Burn
Starts on left side of the wall immediately left of 'Bermuda Triangle'. Up to where a series of wedged blocks in a horizontal break leads right. Follow this rightwards until you are nearly at the BT roof then climb strenuously straight up to top using a series of pockets. - Fun!
FA: Richard Curtis & Phil Armstrong, 1978
|20||★ Bermuda Triangle
The corner, then R around the roof.
Start: Start beneath the distinctive orange triangular roof towards the L end of the crag.
FA: Roland Pauligk & Barry Edwards, 1977
Easy wall, orange rock, then L under overhangs to arete. Up it.
Start: Start 30m L of 'Light Fingered' (which is described on a separate page).
FA: Rod Young & Tim Chapman, 1981
|20||A Sore Thumb
Easily to pillar then flake up R. L below bulge and up seam.
Start: Start at obvious slender buttress between DD and 'Light Fingered'.
FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little & Maureen Gallagher, 1988
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully Upper Hunger|
|20||The first six inches
Bridge up to gain flake and climb up to roof. Swing through roof.
Start: Start: Three metres right again is another flake.
FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith, 1999
|20||Voices in my head
Anyone who isn't paranoid lacks imagination. A technical onsight lead. Continue down the gully past a short step. Directly under the narrowest part of the gully there is a shallow black corner which leans right and runs up to a series of roofs and overhangs. Directly above the start of this route there is a thin crack through a large overhang. The line shown in the topo is a guess.
FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, James Falla. (Improved LHF by Jon Bassindale & Nikki Sutherland), 2000
|20||Gutless Gutless Bunny
Start: Continue down the wall from SSHSEBI5. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is a line (starting just left of the hole) that goes up past a large pocket.
FA: Paul Hoskins & Richard Smith, 1999
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully|
The crack at the L end of the short overhung orange wall.
Start: Start at the top of a steep gully L of 'Light Fingered'.
FA: Rod Young, 1980
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall|
|21||That Man Again
Finish up blunt arete.
Start: Start just R of WMWK.
FA: Brian Fish, 1982
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork|
|21||★★ Feel It Closing In
Good face climbing past BR into crack.
Start: Go all the way up 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork, this is the last (leftmost) route on the small wall on your right.
FA: Roland Foster & Greg Pritchard, 1982
Straight up the face squeezing between Dinosaur and Asteroid.
Start: Start as for IaLD.
FA: Sean Toren & Steph Stewart, 1992
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork|
|21||★ Rats in the Ranks
Escapable but fun. Climb 'King Rat' to the thread. Reach up and R to gain big hold on the lip of the overhang. Pull straight through and climb the featured wall above to finish on the ledge. You may want to bring a few small wires for the upper orange headwall. Two U-bolt lower-off.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, Gen 2015
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall|
Steep groove, delicate slab. Had a lower-off added around 2003; you can also walk off via KRGRF.
Start: Start on the L end of 'Skydiver' Wall, just L of a nose.
FA: Mike Law, 1982
Up the corner, moving out L about halfway - this can be done higher or lower, as shown in topo. Then up face to ledge with rap anchor.
Start: Start 3m R of SM beneath appealing orange corner.
FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran, 1978
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle|
Traverse L along break to BR. Presumably you go up at some point too.
Start: Start 2m L of CC (the original contrived start was further L in the cave).
FA: Lionel Clay & John Pawson, 1986
|21||★★ Cruel Consistency
The steep thin crack and direct through the overhang.
Start: Start on the back face of the Pinnacle (near the R end of 'Skydiver' Wall, described in 'King Rat' Gully).
FA: Glenn Tempest & Rod Young (with illogical finish). DF by Mike Law, 1982
|21||★★ English Ethics
More like a RHV than a separate route...
Start: Start as for CC.
FA: Mike Law & Robin Miller., 1982
|20||★ Shakin' Stevens
Up to the top of the flake, R, up.
Start: Start 2m R of BC.
FA: Mike Law, Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1982
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress|
A hard start leads right to a juggy overhang, then head left and up.
Start: On the nose of 'Baby Buttress'
FA: Rod Young, 1980
|21||Chunder at 30
FA: John Muir, 1985
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully|
Bouldery start then up face to the spectators' gallery.
Start: Start opposite 'Cobwebs' and about 2m downhill.
FA: Mike Law & solo, 1981
The grey wall.
Start: Start at the top of the gully on the R side, 30m L of 'Entangled'.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Paul Hoskins, 1982
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Kryptonite Krack Area|
|20||So Help Me God
Short flake, orange wall, tend L then back R. Very poorly protected and not the best rock.
Start: Start 5m R of TS.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Dave Fearnley, 1982
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area|
|20||★★ Pilot Error
More than popular One move wonder. Start: Start at far left hand end of ledge.
Pilot Error is graded as 20 in the Mentz & Tempest Arapiles Guide Book.
FA: Ian Anger, 1980
Crack over roof of cave between Pilot Error and Tarzan, then chimney.
FA: Nick Reeves, Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Martin, Ed Neve & Rod Young, 1979
|21||★★ I Dunno
Start as for 'Daily Planet' then traverse L along break. Up past pocket to horizontal break. Stand up and move back R to finish up last moves on 'Daily Planet'. Lower off as for 'Daily Planet'.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Jeff Lamb, Paul Daniels & Mark Moorhead, 1981
FA: LH start from back of cave (24) was soloed (!) by Mike Law, 1982
FA: Tough direct start (24) by Jon Muir, 1982
FA: Direct Finish (25) by Kevin Lindorff., Dic 2014
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall|
|20||★★ Lex Luthor
Given a star by the last 2 guidebooks...which coincidentally were written by the two first ascentionists! It's ok but arguably not worth a star so we are "restoring the balance" here.
Start: Start at the base of the slim pillar at the back of the gully between 'Pilot Error' Ledge and 'Lois Lane Wall'.
FA: Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1991
|21||Across the Andes by Frog
The small arete with a bolt.
Start: Start R of LL.
FA: Simon Mentz & Nick White, 1992
|20||★★ Excuse me Lex
Link up of Excuse me while I belch into 2nd pitch of Lex Luthor. Do as one big pitch to get grade 20
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Cassandra Area|
|20 R||Permanent Wave
Start: Start in the gully at the base of the arete R of 'Cassandra'.
FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1980
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae House of Atreus|
Start: Start beneath L side of the face at short slabby chimney.
FA: Mike Law & Mike Stone, 1977
|21||★ Blind Profit
Climbing about three metres right of 'Tiresias' is really good fun and should have been only 18 but for one short hard section.
Start: Start as for 'Tantalus'.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Simon Mentz., 2007
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area|
|20||Nanga Parbat Solo
Take the thin crack on the L arete. Scramble off.
Start: Start R of C at a little gully heading towards 'Agamemnon'.
FA: Mike Law & solo, 1982
|20||★★★ Wizard of lce
The diagonal elephant's butt crack, classic of the genre.
Start: Start just left of 'Agamemnon'.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Mike Law, 1975
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Steel Delinquency Pinnacle|
Gain striking grey prow, veer R at the top.
Start: Start 8m L of SDV.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Good and Evil Blocks|
Start at the small flake but step L and then up.
Start: Start 2m R of CS.
FA: Paul Hoskins & Richard Smith, 1995
Straight up the flake.
Start: Start as for V.
FA: Richard Smith & Paul Hoskins, 1995
|20||Critical Realists Are Chastened Moderns
Start on the L to gain the diagonal.
Start: Start on the 3rd blocky pinnacle, opposite the 2nd pinnacle.
FA: Tim Day & Louise Shepherd, 1991
|20||Beyond Good and Evil
Start: Start 1m R of CRaCM.
FA: Tim Day, Nick Neagle & Craig Roberts, 1992
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Finger Prince Pinnacle|
Up FP to the PR then R and up mossy streak.
Start: Start as for FP.
FA: Kevin lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 2000
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle|
Up the face with 1 BR.
Start: Start as for FB.
FA: Kurt Smith & early 90s?, 2000
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle|
Heavy duty jams get you started on the flake system on the arete, then move L to guano and up to flake.
Start: Start at the L arete of the 4th pinnacle.
FA: John Chapman & Kevin Lindorff, 1975
|21||★ Passionate Tips
Up to the bolt then go R to arete and back L to puzzling moves up the seam. You can also boulder past the bolt at very contrived 24 but it's a better route at 21.
Start: Start on wall R of DM.
FA: Lincoln Shepherd & Natalie Green, 1982
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle|
Start at the left-leading diagonal crack.
Follow the diagonal left into the easy chimney on Cadenza Direct and up to the sloping ledge. Traverse right to a tricky exit.
FA: Michael Stone & Ian Speedie, 1965
FFA: Andrew Thomson, 1975
Fairly good climbing culminating in the left arete of 'D Minor'. The strenuous crux past the last bolt is a little contrived though.
Start: Start at a short diagonal finger crack 3m right of the 'Quaver' chimney.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman. 1990s., 1994
|30m, 2, 3|
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Didgeridoo Pipe|
|21||★ Pull Anchor
Climb Hornpipe for ~5m, then move left and up past a bolt (crux) and through a crack to a ledge. At the ledge move right to climb another crack, past another bolt.
Ends at the same height as pitch 2 of Conifer Crack at a rap station.
FA: muki woods
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall|
|21||★ Wyrd Direct
Straightens out Wyrd with some committing climbing.
FA: Tony Marian, Hugh Foxcroft (1 aid). Freed: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd Jan 1979., 1978
|20||★★★ Tannin Direct
Makes a good change.
FA: Jon Muir, Tony Dignan & Geoff Little., 1985
|21||★★ The Wraith
This lovely wall was a very bold first ascent. 'Small' wires now give reasonable protection but sport climbers wouldn't want to be getting on this for their first trad 21.
Start: Just right of 'Tannin'.
FA: Andrew Thomson & Greg Child, 1976
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall|
A worthless approach to what eventually became Jen's Roof.
Bridge up the gully left of Dirge then out right to short thin crack. From crack go right into Dirge and up this to roof on right. Hand-traverse right on the lip of the roof to FH and finish up Jen's Roof.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Chris Baxter., 1984
|21||★ Clear the Pipes
A direct start to the first pitch of Humouresque. Climb to the right of the first FH to ledge. Straight up passing 2nd FH to joint H at the bottom of it's crack.
FA: Anthony Schellens & Paul Deacon, Dic 2018
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Rabbit Boulder|
|V2||★ Eye of the bunny
Left to right over nose. Sit start.
|V1||★ Over the eye
|V2||★ Obvious Problem on Back Left
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Leafy Quoit Lump|
Start at base of mossy ramp, climb easily to small roof. Follow small crackline to top on slim to no protection.
FA: David Millard, 2004
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area|
Start: In the middle of the wall right of Blue Chev' is a thin line.
FA: Hoskins, Pritchard & Smith, 1995
Continue up the gully to below the middle of the righthand wall. The line in the middle of the wall, with a reachy finish.
FA: Robin Miller & Nyrie Dodd, 1982
Try not to pike right.
Start: Line 2m right of 'Cellulite'.
FA: H & L, 1995
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall|
|20||Beautiful Possibilities Direct Start
Boulder the start...
FA: Michael Woodrow, 1991
|21||★ Beautiful Loser
Up 'Jason' then R along traverse line to 'Mind Games'. Up MG for 4m, including it's crux, then further R to groove.
Start: Start as for 'Jason'.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Baxter, 1979
|21||★ Medea's Revenge
Start as for Mind Games.
Up Mind Games for 4m, then step 1m L to take faint groove straight up.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Nicky Sunderland, 1993
|20||★ Mind Games
Start 6m right of Jason. Up past horizontal, then the groove, and head R after bulge. The hanging block at the end of the crux sounds pretty hollow.
FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1978
|21 R||★ Nightlinger
The incipient corner/flake just left of Dylan has a scary start, especially since a key jug and gear block came off in 2016.
FA: Andrew Thomson & Greg Child, 1976
The wall then the arete, starting around right of Anteus.
FA: Chris Baxter & Brian Fish, 1984
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle|
The featureless arete just right of Moby Dick. Poor protection.
FA: Kim Carrigan & John Smoothy, 1984
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dino Pillar|
The line on the front of the pillar - no piking L or R. The pillar was first climbed via the crack at 16 in 1975.
Start: Start on the next slim pillar R of Stoat Wall.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & John Smart, 1978
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam|
|20||★★ Bam Bam
Start: The R crack.
FA: Rolang Pauligk, 1968
FFA: Nic Taylor, 1975
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wuss Wall|
The curving corner.
Start: Start at the middle of the wall.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Paul Aubrey, 1980
Sustained full value crack.
Start: Start 1m R of W.
FA: Paul Aubrey & Glenn Tempest, 1980
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall|
|20||Ouah Con C'est Edlinger
The thin crack in the front face of the block.
Start: Start beneath the small block below 'Paladin'.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Ian Ravenscroft, 1983
|20||★ A Boy and His Dog
To ledge, then committing to gain the hanging corner on the arete just R of the top of 'Die Loaded'.
Start: Start at the top of DS.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Chris Baxter, 1985
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face|
|21||Dog Day Afternoon
The contrived squeezed-in arete between HW and J.
Start: Start just R of HW.
FA: Ant Callaghan & James Naylor, 1990
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Shattered Buttress|
Yet to be determined whether it actually lives up to the impressive hype job, which goes like this: "That's the best move I've done in my life" - James. And: "This would be an OK route if it wasn't for the second pitch which makes it fantastic!"
Start: Start. Left of 'Shattered' there is a diagonal seam/crack (L-R). Right of this a thin crack allows runners. The crux is getting from the runners left and up into the line. It is possible to start to the left if you don't want any gear. As it is the upper part of the crack is a bit go-ey.
Later ascents have confirmed that they were on really excellent drugs. The climbing is rubbish.
FA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999
The R-leaning sickle.
Start: Start on the L side of the orange/red face.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1978
The thin crack.
Start: Start at the R end of the wall.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1978
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Deep Freeze Wall|
The weakness just L of a pedestal.
Start: Start 5m L of S.
FA: Mark Walters, Angela Emmerson & R Foster, 1985
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress|
|21||★★ Evans Above
Start as for Megalomaniac.
Up Megalomaniac a little, L to sickle crack, then over roof.
FA: Mike Smith & Dennis Kemp, 1981
|21||★ Power Crazy
Start up 'Megalomaniac' then move right and follow weakness, gear is a little fiddly at times, but there is plenty of it to keep you happy
FA: Kim Carrigan, Evelyn Rees & Louise Shepherd, 1981
|20||★★ Electric Warrior
An excellent route with hard bits down low and up high.
Start below the major corner crack on the right hand side of the wall.
Move up to the seam to a tricky move, then enjoyable climbing follows to a solid finger crack at the top.
FA: Glenn Tempest, Joe Friend & John Chapman, 1976
|21||★★ Droop Street
Sustained arete. Start a few metres R of Electric Warrior. Step left into line then up and right at 10m.
FA: Andrew Thomson & Nic Taylor, 1977
|21||★ Maman! Maman!
Up to pin, step left then up headwall.
Start: Start: In the gully right of UIMB, on the left wall.
FA: Jon Bassindale, Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall|
|20||★ John's Corner Direct
From the corner of John's Corner, step left then head up wall past bolt. The best way to do the route.
|20||Entering the Gelf Zone
On the East face (the one facing camp), left of the Gelf icon and corner of CoPLI is a line through a bulge. Be warned about rock and gear.
FA: Hoskins & Pritchard, 1996