|Europe Spain Asturias Valles del Trubia Marabio El Bordillo y Artificial|
|Europe Croatia Dalmacija Obli Kuk Sfinga|
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall|
|22||★ Cricket Bats in a Box
Poor pro. The right side of the cave to a sickle flake, then left.
Start: Below the R side of Melville's Cave.
FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988
|22||★ Red Right Hand||10m, 1|
|22||★★ 15 Feet Of Pure Steep, Bro||14m, 2|
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Chiusa Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag|
|23|| ★★ Sagittarian
Steep crack 6m left of 'Sickle' to break, then move R and up past a bolt, onto easier ground.
FA: Peter Millington & Adrian Jones, 1969
FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978
|22|| ★ New Wave Wanks
Start up 'Slip Knot', then left across 'Sagittarian' to the arete, and a hard move up R to jugs.
FA: Phil Bigg & Chris Shepherd, 1983
|23|| ★★ Little Thor Direct Finish
After the crux on 'Little Thor', continue straight up instead of scuttling off left. Take a bolt bracket.
FA: Toshihiko Hijakata, 1988
|22|| ★ A New Toy
Bouldery crux. Up crack 2m left of 'Problematic' to bulge and bolt. Onwards.
FA: Stuart Hickson & Allan Wilkie, 1982
|22|| ★ Problematic
The short bulging crack on the right-hand side of the north-west-facing sheer orange wall.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Baxter, 1979
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Chiusa Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder|
|V3|| ★ Traverse
|V3|| ★★ V3 pocket problem
|23|| ★★★ Brain Death
Follow the wide crack the whole way up.
FA: Henry Barber
|V3|| ★ Brain Death - Piker's Variant
|V3|| ★★ L
|V3|| ★★ D
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall|
Overhang, mantle, then weakness on R.
Start: Start just R of 'Popeye' at the obvious V.
FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1981
|23||★ Vogon Destructor Fleet||20m, 4|
|22||★ Hyperspace Bypass||20m, 4|
Shallow corner then R through bulges.
Start at bushes R of 'Asteroids'.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Rod Young, 1981
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area The Thimble|
|22||★ Pinpricks Of Blood
Long moves between good holds. Start direct. Size 3 Camalot handy. Finish right onto the arete.
FA: Douglas Hockly & Paul Deacon, 2009
|23||★ Wingspan||10m, 1|
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall|
Start at the arete just L of 'Christian Crack'. Up the corner on the arete, trend right past FH, before landing on the ledge. From here you work your way back right, and the theory is that you finish up the arete, but inevitably the holds lead you further right, such that it feels contrived to avoid finishing up 'Christian Crack'.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979
|22 X||★ No Wall At All
A low bolt then try not to die above that.
Start: Start between 'Spasticus' & 'Nero'.
FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1981
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Shark fin|
|23||★ spiderman savior
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully|
|23||Valley of the Deformed Pork Salesman
Start: Start in the cramped gully, up L of 'Hunger'.
FA: Mike Law & Mark Colyvan, 1983
|22||★★ Light Fingered
Struggle up the good line.
Start: Start below the obvious grey wall just before the gully narrows below crack that widens.
FA: Mike Law, 1977
|23 R||Wub Wub Direct
Scary face with stacked blocks, then wall and arete.
Start: Start 2m R of LF.
FA: Mike Law & Ian ANger, 1983
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks|
Slab just L of small overlap then L to arete.
Start: Start 3m R of the bumcrack.
FA: Wayne Jensen & Gavin Jensen, 1989
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork|
|22 R||Mongolian Rabbit Shit
Unprotected black streak, then corner.
Start: Start ~20m R of ALG.
FA: Jon Muir & Russell Chudleigh, 1984
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork|
Pull through the start of 'Luxury Item' then L along the horizontal line to the arête. Up the arête past a bolt to a ledge and double glue-in lower-off anchor.
FA: Glenn Tempest, 9 Nov 2016
|23 R||Luxury Item
Fiddly pro initially. Step R at 15m to find the rap anchor above 'King Rat'. Apparently the "awesome" continuation up the chossy headwall is yet to be done - knock yourself out.
Start: Start beneath the grey wall which separates 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork and Right Fork.
FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1981
|23||★ Inquisitive Creatures
Climb Glory Rodent until through the crux. Traverse L to jug on arete and good medium wire above. Climb arete direct, watch out for rope drag or use doubles. Extra grade just for the extra effort required... it's not really any harder than GR.
FA: Goshen Watts, 25 Gen 2020
|22||★★ Glory Rodent
The awesomely steep line is made easier by a few faceholds.
Start: The first steep line you get to on the L wall of KRGRF.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1976
|23 R||★ Kookenhagen
The rotten flake then the bulge to pull R into the flake, belay on R. NOTE: The carrot bolt was very dodgy and has been removed. It needs to be replaced (and repositioned) when anyone can be bothered.
Start: Start R of KR.
FA: Rod Young & Mike Meyers, 1982
|23||Of Mice And Men
Straightens out and significantly improves Kookenhagen. Easily up the line for a few metres then pull up left around the overlap past a bolt runner and up the line above (Kookenhagen stays lower and keeps traversing left).
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Malcolm Matheson, Ott 2016
Sustained face and crack with good wires.
Start: Start 3m R of K.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Cathy Blamey, 1982
A "V", then a sickle. Dodgy rock and gear. Not worth a star.
Start: Start R of MW.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Mike Law, 1982
|23||★ Purple Denotes Bruising
Fingery moves. The original crap bolts were replaced in 2003.
Start: Start R of FB, beneath the huge chockstone above the gully.
FA: Mike Law & Chris Shepherd, 1982
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall|
|23 R||★ Even More Moves
Go straight up, it's hard to get the pro in.
Start: Start behind the tree, 1m R of CAL.
FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985
|22||★★ Free Admission
Straight up well protected wall.
Start: Start 1m R of EMM.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Joe Lynch, 1981
|22||★★ Easy Does It
Seam with two bolts.
Start: Start 1m R of FA.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Joe Lynch, 1981
|22||★ Spasticus Autisticus
It is possible to climb into Retardation but you can suspend the disbelief and stay on the wall. The climbing sends you rightwards after that anyway.
Mistakenly named Austisticus Spasticus in Simey and Glen's guide. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6isXNVdguI8
FA: Mark Wood, 2005
|23||The Other Route
Stick clip U-bolt. Take a running jump off the end of the ledge and leap for the jug. Simultaneously, get your belayer to take in about 5 metres of slack however seems apt. Then climb the crack.
Start: Start off the R end of the ledge.
FA: Mike Law & Malcolm Matheson, 1983
|23||★★ Dead Metaphor
Link up of Skydiver to Sustained Metaphor. Start up Skydiver until the horizontal weakness at about 8m. Go L along this to the groove on Sustained Metaphor, and up this to the top. Great sustained climbing.
|23||★★ Beside Myself
Start: Start 1.5m R of S.
FA: Mike Law & Greg Garnham, 1982
|30m, 2, 2|
Up BM to it's first bolt. Head right to another bolt, some hard moves and finally BM's anchor.
FA: Gareth Llewellin & Jessie Rushbrooke, 4 Gen 2015
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle|
|23||English Ethics LHF
As for EE but span L to the jug on the prow and up the prow to finish.
Start: Start as for CC.
FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little & Maureen Gallagher, 1989
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress|
|22||★ Pwocol Hawum
Take the same starting diagonal crack as 'Wascal', but continue another two meters before going up.
Start: Start as for 'Wascal'.
FA: Mike Law
|22||★ Cry Hawum
An enjoyable combo with just a couple of metres of new climbing. Has been top-roped before. Up 'Cry Baby' to above its first bolt. Thin moves across L (good wires) to surmount the crux bulge on 'Pwocol Hawum'.
FA: Glenn Tempest, 18 Apr 2015
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully|
|23||Ferrari in a Chevrolet World
Up the seam, joining the last 3m of 'Entangled'.
Start: Start 8m L of 'Entangled'.
FA: Roland Foster & Dave Vass, 1989
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Kryptonite Krack Area|
|23||★ Thanksgiving Sunday
The thin dogleg crack behind dead conifer.
Start: Start on the wall below 'Kryptonite Krack'.
FA: Chris Peisker, 1977
The obvious bottomless crack. Originally put up by 'building a scaffolding' of rocks to stand on and reach the first jug. Went unrepeated until 2001 when Chris Jones onsighted it without the aided start and called it 'It's A Bird It's a Plane'. Now given 27 in the latest guide, however has been climbed by a simple dyno off the deck, reducing the grade to probably around 23.
Start: Start left of 'Kryptonite Krack'.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead (22M1 with batman start), 1981
FFA: Chris Jones., 2001
|23||★★ Kryptonite Krack
Prance up the inverted trench, exit L.
Start: Start beneath the main diagonal crack through the steep bulge.
FA: Greg Child, 1978
|23||★ Auntie Florrie
Short thin crack with very tough start. L along break to exciting juggy finish.
Start: Start R of S.
FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1980
Start: Start as for AF.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1979
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area|
|22||★ Fixed Smile
Short variant to 'Togrul Khan'. Climb right arete, either from left or right past fixed sling (which was originally fencing wire!).
Start: Start just R of TK.
FA: Mike Law, 1982
Start: Start off boulder underneath roof.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1977
|22 R||Perry White
The badly protected seam right of 'Daily Planet'.
Start: Start 2m R of 'Daily Planet'.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985
Roof above 'Togrul Khan' past two BR. Inadvertently retrobolted after the FA. It's a bit necky getting to the first bolt. The direct start from the bottom of the wall has been done (Smith Hoskins, 4/5/96), as has the sit start (!!) (Hoskins, 14/5/96).
Start: Start above 'Togrul Khan'.
FA: Geoff Weigand & Peter Croft (both solo), 1986
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall|
Start up the ramp of BS, then the flake. Tricky up small corner on the L.
Start: Start as for B.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Robin Miller, 1982
|23 R||Beasley St
Boldly up face to bolt.
Start: Start just R of C.
FA: Guy Cotter & Steve Howden, 1981
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Cassandra Area|
|22||★ Cassandra Direct
Slippery and technical. The pikers variant to 'Pain Street'.
Start: Start up 'Cassandra'.
FA: C Peisker, 1978
|23||★★ Pain Street
While this is very nearly a sport route, it's important to place gear past the last bolt to avoid a nasty swing into the slab if you fall off the crux.
Start: Start as for 'Cassandra Direct'.
|22||Warts and All
Through bulge, BR, tend a bit L but don't join 'Cassandra' until the diagonal ramp.
Start: Start 3m R of C.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Heinz Zak, 1985
|23 X||Unguarded Moments
Up the middle of the face - no pro. Stay L of the arete (which is taken by the upper part of It'll Never Fly). It is 19 but probably no easier (!!) to take a flying leap across the chasm from Cassandra's 1st belay to the halfway break!
Start: Start on the R wall of the gully, opposite PW.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Malcolm Matheson, 1982
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae The Flight Deck|
You can climb all of pitch 1 and the good bit of pitch 2 in a single mega pitch, then step left to the anchor of 'Afterburner'. It's a great shame that this new anchor wasn't placed 2m to the R on the front of the arete, as this would have allowed the leader to clean their own gear, but as it is someone will need to second if you do this extended version.
Start: Start at the big corner on the Flight Deck.
FA: Jim Newlands & John Bennett, 1966
FFA: Kim Carrigan (1st pitchand LHV 13/3/84), Glenn Tempest (2nd pitch & 8/76), 1979
|22 R||★★ Plimsoll Line
Straight up to Orestes' first anchor. Beware, this route is often slimy, and the pro down low is fiddly mediocre RPs. Originally had pitons, they were eventually replaced with bolts but those were ripped out by the ethics police, so good luck...
Start: Start at the thin left-facing corner 4m right of 'Orestes'.
FA: Clive Parker, Chris Baxter & John Moore, 1968
FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Muldoon Area|
As for 'Muldoon' for 10m to the cave, then steeply out to slot, and up L into crack. Best descent is to continue up 'Muldoon' to it's rap anchors.
Start: Start as for 'Muldoon'.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Dave Moss, 1979
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area|
|23||★ Crows in the Snow
Up flake for 12m to cave, then R and blindly through bulge to another cave. Presumably you have to finish up some other route to get off.
Poor rock and gear.
Start: Start on the L side of 'Collision Course' Wall, beneath a short, L curving flake.
FA: Paul Tattersall & Chris Shepherd, 1982
FA: (described finish added by Kim Carrigan & Malcolm Matheson), 1982
|22||★★ Collision Course
Little arete to striking large holes under roof. Move left until roof can be breached at obvious under clings, then up face, left past old peg on the right, then drifting left and up till the arete is reached, then back right up face to rap anchors.
Start: Start a few m L of 'Agamemnon', at a little arete.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Geoff Little, 1979
Reachy. An old route that starts as for FF and keeps traversing across to CC. Superceded by FF.
Start: Start as for WoI.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead (variant by Mike Law), 1981
|22||Love that comfort
The start of Love That Pain, escaping up Necrophiliac. The rock is a bit dodgy at the start and the gear is fiddly but the climbing is OK.
FA: Douglas Hockly, 1 Gen 2014
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Steel Delinquency Pinnacle|
|23 R||Blood and Iron
Start: Start 4m L of SD, below little gumtree poking out of cliff.
FA: Tim Day, Nick Neagle & Craig Roberts, 1992
Up face, over pocketed roof, then up R to hole.
Start: Start under the arch.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Paul Tattersall, 1982
|23||Throw Me No Beers
Up the patch of orange rock, 2 BRs.
Start: Start on the tiny outcrop which is downhill from 'Steel Delinquency' Pinnacle, and which faces the same way.
|22||★★ Trench Rawfare
Trench Rawfare - It'll leave you raw!
Offwidth/Roof trench on the right hand side of Steel Delinquency Pinnacle. Approximately 6 meters to the left of Finger Prince.
Go up cave roof and out. Rappel Anchors installed at top of climb.
Offwidth Size Dependent!!
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Good and Evil Blocks|
Start: Start on the L arete of the 3rd blocky pinnacle.
FA: Nick Neagle, Tim Day & Craig Roberts, 1992
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Finger Prince Pinnacle|
The speckled face which may have a fixed wire.
Start: Start up around L of FP.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Warwick Baird, 1982
|23||★★ Finger Prince
Flake, L past PR into small techie corner on arete. Finish L up flake or straight up. The direct start is 23 with a BR, and uses the original footholds as handholds.
Start: Start at the L arete of the FP pinnacle, 2m L of TT.
FA: Greg Child, Kim Carrigan (Direct Start by Nick White & Andy Pollitt), 1990
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle|
|23||★★ Iron Void
Start off the boulder and L and up the great face which swallows heaps of small wires - if you have the stamina to find the placements! You can also approach the same line by doing the reachy start of IVV.
FA: Tony Dignan & Geoff Little, 1979
The fine line L of the slim tree.
Start: Start on small orange face which is below and faces the same direction as the Flashing Blade.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1979
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle|
|23||★ A Plaything For the Missus
Fingery up to BR, R across SO, and up past 2nd BR.
Start: Start up L of SO.
FA: Ross Meffin & Kate Thomas, 1992
Small flake, face, small overlap then tend R. This route looks almost entirely unprotected.
Start: Start at the yellow wall which is above and R of 'Frenzy'.
FA: Jim Thomas & Mark Moorhead, 1982
The low red wall capped by a roof is taken via bouldery face moves then a crack. Finish up groove.
Start: Start just R of F.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Murray Taylor (aid), 1968
FFA: Andrew Thomson, 1976
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side|
|22||★ Private Detective
One concerned father hired a private detective when his daughter started seeing Chris! Not that well protected. Start R around the arête from C, 3m L of Stentor's 3rd pitch.
FA: Glenn Tempest, Lincoln Shepherd & Chris Shepherd, 1981
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle|
|22 R||★ Aardvark Original Start
The uphill arete of the pinnacle. No gear at the start. Join Aardvark to finish.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1976
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Diapason Pipe|
|23||★ Quiet Time
A good pump in the Organ Pipes?
Start: Start left of 'Diapason' 2m right 'Ejaculation' beneath obvious overlap.
FA: Hoskins, Wilkins & Pritchard, 1995
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall|
|22||★ Wyrd Left Hand Variant
|23||★ Sissy Bars and Super Freaks
Great moves on thin face cruxy past second bolt, finish straight up or traverse to finish wraith or tannin
Start: Just right of Wraith.
FA: Ant Prehn & Jon Muir.., 1986
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall|
Good climbing with hard start and finish but gets few ascents and is sinking beneath the moss. The finish is quite scarey.
Start: Start 2 metres right of 'Tremulo' at seam.
FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran.., 2000
|22||A Concerted Effort
Beautiful rock but a bit contrived.
Start: Start as for 'Discord'.
FA: Malcolm Matheson, Chris Baxter (alt) & Kim Carrigan., 1982
Hardly a recommendation.
FA: Freed by Malcolm Matheson.., 1981
|23||A Concerted Effort Direct
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Rabbit Boulder|
|V3||★ Over the Nose of the Bunny
|Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area|
The slabby wall opposite Star Search and the main wall. Step on and up, to travers the bulge left to the last small deep wire, then up through crux to continue up slightly right to top. takes thin gear, small to medium wires, and slings.
|23||★ Little Aesthetics
Lovely line that has been inadvertantly retroed. The obvious line on the left wall.
Up obvious crack stepping right, up, then right again.
FA: Hoskins & Smith, 1995
|22||Mark You've Changed
"A good little route with a flake not unlike that on Moby Dick". Follow flake on righthand gully wall until it peters out. Traverse 2m L, then up face, tending R to easy arete.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Allan Wilkie & Malcolm Matheson, 1982
|23||★★ Golden Triangle
May start as for Mark You've Changed and then provide a direct finish to that climb. Or MYC may be just left of this. Needs another look.
Start at the lefthand of the flakes leading to the inverted V.
Up the obvious right facing flake then right ward on thin holds to a balance crux passing a bolt, then up to the anchor.
|20m, 23, 1|