The wall that overlooks Central Gully. It faces a lot more south than it does west, making it one of the best hot day options at Arapiles, but the confusing convention of calling it the west face just won't die.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Bluffs Area

Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit.

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Note calata

25m abseil from the rap station above Missing Link. Please don't toprope directly through the anchors as they see a lot of traffic.

Etica ereditato da Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Alcuni contenuti sono stati forniti sotto licenza da: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU) © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)


Aggiungi via Aggiungi scheda Riordina Modifica in blocco Converti gradi
Grado Via

A pretty awesome bit of rock which sees no action since a bolt pulled out. Start 1.5m R of Missing Link and 5m L of Station to Station. The bolt has been replaced, but is within reach of a long stick clip, otherwise the first gear is a fair way off the ground.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

The steep arête right of Missing Link following four bolts up and right before joining the finish of The Prow. Start 3m left of Station to Station at the U Bolt.

FA: Gordon Poultney

Start as for StS. As for StS to the break then up the arete, making sure your photographer is ready for when you whip.

FA: Simon Mentz & Andrew Eastaugh, 1994

Start 2m L of Thunder Crack. Up to strenno corner (2 FHs), then R onto ledge shared with TC. Up past FH, traverse L to crack and up it, then L and up face past FH.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Jeff Lamb, 1980

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

Avvertimento Attrezzatura fissa: Loose nut - 2nd last bolt

Start as for Station to Station. Up StS until it heads to the arete then move R and up past 3 more bolts to loweroffs.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Straightens out the top section of the original by staying L of the last bolt, making it much better.

FA: Zac Vertrees

The obvious main crack on the L side of the S face of Bluff Major. Wander up the crack to the top. It’s possible to head L to the anchor of FD if you want to lower off, otherwise top out.

FA: Ian Guild & Mike Stone, 1965

Start just R of Thunder Crack. Groove past bolt to stance. Move R to next bolt then go up until you're under the roof. Now go 8m R and down a bit to a rap station. Old schoolers can top out, everyone else can take the easy option and rap off. The rap rings are starting to age out (as of 2023).

FA: Mark Moorhead & Col Reece (starting up TC), 1980

Up Despatched to its first traverse (2nd FH). From here, traverse R all the way to Bulger. Take heaps of RPs.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Col Reece, 1980

Start at the base of Thunder Crack. Traverse R along the major break to Bulger.

FA: Matt Taylor & John Chapman, 1976

Start 4m R of, and 8m down from, D. Bring brackets. Slim groove with BR&FH, then L onto ledge. Now over roof (BR) and follow faint groove up R to next roof (BR), and then join Despatched.

FA: Nick White & Kelly Lenglet, 1991

The unclimbed line of bolts. It looks like Veneer has cleaned up the first 15m of this as there are no other bolts between TYOLD and V. But this old line might also include another bolt up higher … clarification welcome.

FA: Equipped Nick White, 2000

Start 3m left of Unrequited. Climb the face left of Unrequited passing three bolts before gaining that route a few moves before it escapes right. Step left and boulder the short wall above passing a final high bolt.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

Start 15m down R of Thunder Crack. Crack to pocket, R to jug, up to break and lower-offs. The pro is not great.

FA: Greg Child & Kim Carrigan, 1978

Start at the top of Unrequited. Straight up the awesome headwall past bolts, to the Despatched lower-off.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Start just R of Unrequited. A more fingery version of Slopin' Sleazin' perhaps?

FA: Ingvar Lidman

Link Required into Requited.

FA: Nathan Hoette

Start 5m R of Unrequited. Bouldery past the bolt.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Some of the bolts on the last pitch are starting to show their age.

  1. 30m (23) Up Recent Theft to its bolt then step R and up runout face. Belay at stance just L of the start of Bulger P2.

  2. 30m (25) Up past 3 fixed hangers to technical corner then a good rest on the R. Step back left to 4th fixed hanger, and go straight up, before going left onto the airy arete. The bit past the last bolt is the path taken by Lust in the Dust.

FA: Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1991

Not worth cluttering up this guide except to note it’s almost entirely borrowed from routes established decades earlier. See the FA notes if you want all the gory details.

FFA: El Matt a Door & Ian.Grabowski, 19 Ott 2018

FA: 19 Ott 2018

Start down R from Recent Theft.

  1. 30m (13) Short wall to ledge, and step R. The next section, up the peapod corner and then some face moves rightwards, is great. Easy ground leads 15m up and left to a large ledge. This pitch is actually borrowed from Lock-Up; Bulger originally started further up left, 5m R of Unrequited, and traversed in to climb the not-as-good rambly pedestal.

  2. 30m (15) The steep corner crack, with airy hand jamming.

FA: Reg Williams & Chris Baxter, 1965

Lust in the Lichen could be considered a more fitting name.

Climb Bulger pitch 2 for 6m then move L to rusty FH (the fourth bolt of Lust). From here go straight up, then step left to join the arête. It's tempting to traverse 3m left from the bolt on much cleaner rock but this is significantly harder than grade 20 and tends to lead you into Despatched pitch 2 rather than onto the arête.

FA: Simon Mentz

Start 4m R of B. The steep weakness with a desperate exit.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1980

As for The Keyhole then take the steep crack 3m L of The Keyhole. Once in the alcove above, take the steep juggy R wall.

FA: Ed Neve & Chris Baxter, 1974

Start at the top of Dire Straights. You need a cairn to start - if you must do this make sure you don't send rocks off the edge onto others below.

FA: Chris Baxter & Chris O'Brien, 1975

Start about 50m uphill from John's Pinnacle, under the obvious cleft in the south face of the Bluffs which divides Bluff Major and Bluff Minor. Up 4m juggy wall, go R underneath roof for 5m, then thrash up the obvious slot. Exit to the north onto Blockbuster Ledge.

This is now the preferred way to do Bulger. As for The Keyhole then up pea-pod groove, then the wall to join Bulger. Finish up it.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Halvard Andersen-Dalheim, 1984


Nuovo qui? è un guida gratuita per aree di arrampicata in tutto il mondo, create collaborativamente da volenterosi arrampicatori, boulderer e altre simpatiche persone.

Tu puoi registrare le tu vie, socializzare e discutere con altro utenti e molto altro...

» inizia ad esplorare, » leggi di più o » facci una domanda

Selected Guidebooks more Nascondi

Autore/i: Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Data: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Autore/i: Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Data: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Autore/i: Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Data: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Alloggi in zona more Nascondi

Condividi questo

Foto Sfoglia tutte le foto

Carica una foto di area

Attività recenti

Controlla cosa succede a Bluff Major West Face.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文