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Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Popolarità | ||
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The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | |||||
18 | ★★★ Death Row
Layback corner then L into the "condemned cell", which takes some escaping! Great moves continue above, trending slightly L. Top anchor is several bits of rope/tat with a mallion. Walk over the top of the pinnacle, with a short down-climb to a rap anchor behind boulder. Start: Start at the L-facing corner at the R end of the main face. FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1967 | 45m | |||
18 | Commuted
Start as for 'Death Row' Climb the initial corner on 'Death Row' and continue straight on up the line instead of stepping left into the condemned cell. Delicate, airy moves over a bulge lead to a corner system capped by a small roof. Bridge spectacularly through the left side, or more easily on the right. Continue up wall right of the arête to the top of the pinnacle. FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2003 | 45m | |||
18 | Howling
5 metres right of Black Box. Climb middle of orange wall using little pockets and directly up middle of slabby pinnacle although this is run out (easy escape left of right). FA: Hywel Rowlands & Michael Dowling, 8 Giu 2014 | 25m | |||
The Pharos Uncle Charlie | |||||
18 | ★★ Virginia
Steep deep wide crack. Overhangs more than most 18s! Can be bridged without much thrutching, but some large gear can be handy. Stays dry in light rain too. Start about 20m up the gully R from CoC. FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst, 1967 | 25m | |||
The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | |||||
18 | ★★ Transatlantic Crossing
1
18
25m
2
18
15m
Start: Start 8 metres left of 'Oceanoid', 1 metre right of the lowest part of the buttress, below corner leading to overhang.
FA: Hugh Foxcroft & Dave Gairns (alt), 1980 | 40m, 2 | |||
18 | ★★★ Sport Climb This You Bastards
Graunchy roof-crack at left end of terrace that Oceanoid Pitch 1 finishes at. FA: James Falla & Jon Bassindale, 1991 | 35m | |||
18 | ★ Left Side of the Ocean
This is an OK alternative to second ptich of "Oceanoid" if you've been here before. Start: Start as for pitch 2 of "Oceanoid" Climb initial bulge then head up right to a chalked-up horizontal. Mantle onto the orange wall and continue up slab keeping left of Oceanoid. Finish just left of the bottomless corner. FA: Glenn Tempest & Phillip Armstrong, 1979 | 35m | |||
18 R | Prevarication
Good start and bold finish but the middle bit is nothing to write home about. Start: Start on the buttress between 'Five Fingered Mary' and 'Hurricane Lamp Cracks' below a crack through an overhang at 8 metres.
FA: Neil Barr & Peter Watling, 1979 | 97m, 3 | |||
The Pharos Back Wall | |||||
18 | The North-East Ridge of the Pharos
Start: Start just left of 'Lamplighter' at slick, wide, left-leaning crack.
FA: Jeremy Boreham & Glenn Tempest (alt), 1980 | 82m, 3 | |||
Pharos Gully Duck Crag | |||||
18 | Duck Crack
Little jam-crack on left. FA: Kirsty Hamilton, 1993 | 6m | |||
18 | Another One Bites The Duck
Obvious traverse line. FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 10m | |||
18 | Duck Addendum
Supposed to be good. From loose block on ground, up to horizontal, step right and up shallow. left-facing corner. FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 10m | |||
Pharos Gully Baker's Wall | |||||
18 | Second Thoughts
Quite sustained and poorly protected. Start 2 metres right of Hugh Goes West. Up to diagonal, then right along horizontal break, up and across to bottomless corner and climb this. FA: Charlie Creese, Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1985 | 20m | |||
Pharos Gully Heckle and Jeckle Area | |||||
18 | Hopelessly Obscure
Crack through bulge on right side of small face. FA: Bert Levy & Kate Jacobsen, 1990 | 9m | |||
18 | ★ Uncle Fester
Start as for crack attack then step L around corner to stance (no more bolt?). Up on the L of arete over sus gear to rail, move L and up. FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen tempest, Ago 2015 | 19m | |||
18 | ★ Jeckle
The very technical, bouldery start was always a bit of a shock to people expecting a grade 14! The rest of the route is substantially easier. FA: Garry Sudholz & Keith Lockwood, 1968 | 18m | |||
18 | ★ Goodbye Gumby
Up flake, at top step right on orange wall and go up slightly right to easier finish. Start: Start at right-facing flake right of 'Jeckle' and before the streak of Clap For Kiwis. FA: Eric Jones & Chris Baxter, 1985 | 18m | |||
Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites | |||||
18 | ★★ Huey
This beautiful thin crack is so good it just about rates three stars. Maybe if it was five metres longer? Pull into the flake just left of the cherry ballart then continue up the face-crack. FA: Dave Neilson & Keith McNaughton, 1968 | 16m | |||
Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Upper Pharos Gully | |||||
18 | ★★ Vaginal Death Threat
Short corner bounding right side of wall. FA: Ed Sharp, Paul Colyvan & Greg Pritchard, 1984 | 15m | |||
Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Jackass Wall | |||||
18 | Voidoid Direct Start
A route in its own right and not a great one at that. Start: Start in gully below 'Voidoid' under huge chockstone. Traverse high into line from left. FA: Greg Garnham, Chris Baxter & Joy Fletcher, 1982 | 15m | |||
18 | ★ Nautilus
Delicate start 2 metres right of A Bit... leads to ledge at 15 metres Climb the arete at the L end of the wall to finish. A yellow Alien was essential protection. Original route finished up buttress left of A Bit Of The Old One-Two. FA: Robyn Storer & Sue Baxter (alt), 1985 | 35m | |||
18 | The Last New Route at Arapiles
Good technical start. Start: Start 2 metres right of 'Jackass Crack', behind gum. Up crack to overhang which is passed on left. Go right through overlap and then back left to easy finish. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1985 | 35m | |||
Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area | |||||
18 | ★ Act in Haste
Good rock, protection was thought to be a bit funky. Wall just right of Angel Black has a prominent flake starting a few metres up. Climb diagonally right up to flake and follow it. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1987 | 12m | |||
Pharos Gully Ethereal Buttress | |||||
18 | ★ Today
Crack and pod. Start: Start just L of the L arete of the main face, just behind a pine. FA: Kevin & Sue Otten, 1979 | 15m | |||
18 | ★ Whacky-Did
Up 'Pibroch' for 4m then the groove on the L. Start: As for 'Pibroch'. FA: Keith Egerton, Stephen Burke, Allan Hope & Jane Wilkinson, 1984 | 20m | |||
Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | |||||
18 | ★ Miss Moneypenny
Consistent climbing for the grade. Starts 10m L of Turquoise, takes 2 #3 camalots (or equivalent), a #0.2 is handy to protect clip at second bolt. Up to lower off. FA: Geoff Little & Maureen Little, 2017 | 20m, 3 | |||
18 | ★ Turquoise
Good start and finish. Crosses Green Shirt and climbs the L seam and arete off the ledge. Runout up the slab above this. Start: Start at south arete of buttress at a shallow orange corner. FA: Rod Young & Phillip McMillan, 1979 | 25m | |||
18 | ★ Four Sticks
Crank up the wall 2 metres right of "Ephemeral" FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1979 | 20m | |||
18 | Snorky
Head up rightish to small pod then back left above this and straight up to horizontal break. Take thin seam through headwall. Start: Start: Above 'Nexus' there is a wall with no routes (until now). It faces the Pharos. Start in the middle of the wall. FA: Paul Hoskins, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith., 2000 | 15m | |||
18 | ★ Undertow
Start up the poorly protected seam of Tomorrow, then L and up (gear is good from here). FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1979 | 15m | |||
18 | ★ Tomorrow
Varied and tricky. The crackline about 3m R of the arete (No Quarter). The initial seam is poorly protected and not super easy. FA: Phillip McMillan & Rod Young, 1979 | 10m | |||
18 | Ept
This is pretty good. Start a few metres down right of the boulder choke, opposite Pixies Delight. Move right on a ledge to base of diagonal flake/ramp (FH). Follow flake diagonally left until it runs out at FH. Move left to and up seams on grey face (this is just right of the crack and seams of Kempt) to the headwall. Up righthand crack moving slightly right then back left at top (careful with hollow block on left). Easy ground to anchor above Kempt. FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 19 Gen 2019 | 2 | |||
Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | |||||
18 R | Trampled Underfoot
Awesome major corner that sees few ascents. Large gear is needed. Start: Start below the corner forming the left side of the 'Slabocide' wall.
FA: Greg Child, Matt Taylor, Tim Beaman & Sylvia Lazarnick, 1976 | 30m, 2 | |||
18 | Greta Van Fleet
Climb the ramp just left of Haphazard for 7 meters to ledge, then climb wall directly with tricky moves at the top. FFA: Paul Deacon & Pat Ford, 22 Ott 2018 | 15m | |||
18 | Psychotic
This is in the hanging gully between Lunatic and Blue Hawaii and is approached by scrambling down from Haphazard. Lefthand of two lines left of the original start to 'Lunatic', finishing up arete. FA: Tony Dignan & Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 20m | |||
18 | Hollow Point
Thin crack below left arete of 'Future Past' pillar. From ledge above crack go up arete, finishing on right. FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1980 | 40m | |||
Yesterday Gully Upper Gully Parsley Area | |||||
18 | ★ Rosemary
Next crack right of Sage with good holds around bulge. FA: Nic Taylor, 1983 | 10m | |||
Pharos Boulders Monkey Puzzle Boulder Road Face | |||||
V0+ | ★ High traverse
| 4m | |||
V0+ | ★ V0+ problem- Up prob big holds
| ||||
18 | ★ Face
| 7m | |||
Pharos Boulders Finalgon Boulder | |||||
V0+ | ★★ V0+ high ball
Beautiful climbing on good holds | 5m |
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