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Tutti 23 vie visualizzati.

Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Popolarità
Tiger Wall Seneca Wall
20 Native Title

2 bolts

Walk-off

Takes the square-cut L-facing corner through the roofs R of 'Time Out'.

Start 3m R of 'Seneca'.

FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Day (alt) - 1996-06-09

P1 (30m, 19, 1 bolts) Straight up the sickle-shaped crack to a jug below the bulge. Unlikely moves through the bulge (BR) to belay on Seneca's loose traverse.

P2 (20m, 20, 1 bolts) Directly up to the square cut corner (BR), through this then R to the arete and up.

Trad 50m
Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
20 The Long, the Short and the Tall

Another worthless traverse.

Start: Start as for 'Eagle Cleft'.

FA: Mike Law, Mike Stone & Chris Baxter, 1977

Trad 140m
20 The Good, The Bad and The Ugly Left Hand Start

A better way to get to the crux at the top of the first pitch.

Start: Start 2m L of 'The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly'. Up the easy slab then a thin crack (this bit goes at 18). Join the original first pitch for it's final cruxy corner

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1992

Trad 30m
20 The Good, the Bad and the Ugly
1 20 35m
2 20 15m
3 50m

Pitch 1 has seen a few very serious falls, but the protection is quite ok if you take care to eliminate directional forces on the crux pro. If you don't know how to do this, then this route might deserve a "serious" rating.

Start: About 25m R of 'Eagle Cleft' there is the first significant weakness in the big roof. Start under this.

  1. 35m (20) Up long slabby crack to beneath a short steep corner. Make sure you set good directional pro here as the crux wires can be susceptible to outwards force. Cruxy moves up the corner to a ledge.

  2. 15m (20) The intimidating steep crack through the bulge above climbs beautifully. You'll reach a cave with a rap anchor (50m to the ground).

  3. 50m (-) Don't bother with this, rap off instead. Up mossiness then into a polished chimney which leads to Flinders Lane.

FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, Peter Cohn & Fred Langenhorst, 1968

Trad 100m, 3
20 Harrier

The roof is cool. Said to be 100m, which looks right, but the pitch lengths don't add up so you'll have to make do.

Start: Start 5m L of 'Underneath the Colours'.

  1. 24m (20) Bouldery crux up the blank-looking smooth wall past a fixed sling. Easier jugs follow.

  2. 18m (-) Up onto foothold on bulge. Trend slightly L to stance.

  3. 27m (-) Smooth wall to red roof. Bridge out to a blind reach around the lip and swing on the jug. 'Doddle' onwards.

FA: Kevin Lindorff later added the roof.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Ed Neve (aided the start & veered around the roof), 1973

Trad 100m, 3
20 Antiques Road Show

Just right of Bienenstich, slab moves up past a bolt to a crackline. Up this then L to the depression above Bienenstich. Up to second bolt and up glorious white wall on good holds to double ring bolt anchor.

The first section is probably a repeat of 'Underneath the Colours', but the top wall is new and very worthwhile. Maybe Underneath the Colours and Antiques Road Show should have their grades aligned seeing as they share a crux move at the first bolt.

You can also start up Ab Fab and traverse in above the first bolt for a great 18.

FA: Geoff Little, 2015

Trad mista 25m, 2
20 Renovation Nation

More direct second pitch to Ab Fab

FA: Bec Hopkins & Simon Mentz, 13 Giu 2016

Trad mista 20m, 4
20 Surfacing

Good climb up the faces between 'Kestrel' and 'Yo Yo' all the way to Flinders Lane. Start midway between these two routes, as for Velvet Green.

  1. 33m (20) Up past BR to little overlap then up into shallow corner on it's left side. Up line to overlaps at 25m. Do not not touch the huge blocks jammed under the overlap, instead move right (can belay at the rap anchor here but rope-drag would be a problem on next pitch) and through overlap past BR. Easily left to tiny ledge below left edge of headwall.

  2. 25m (19) Up into hanging, left-facing corner right of Kestrel for about 6 metres. Cross the right wall of the corner past BR to arete, or move a little higher before moving right. Up arete and over small roof (BR) and continue on water-washed rock to ledge. Up a further 5m to next ledge. The rap anchor for Diving Deep is just to the right if you've previously climbed the top pitch.

  3. 30m (16) Take the crack through the overhang and continue more easily up the right-hand option to lower-off just before Flinders Lane. This is the same as for the finish of Skylark. 30m lower-off followed by 55m (or 30m + 25m) abseil.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Robert Mudie, 26 Gen 2017

Trad mista 88m, 2, 4
20 Mother Brown

Three bolts, two bulges and a slab. The middle bulge was climbed many years ago utilising a very dodgy big block (long gone). Up the initial moves on Velvet Green (bolt), to step slightly R to surmount the little bulge. Pull through the second larger bulge (bolt) and continue on up to a third bolt. Tiptoe up the final moves to the bolt anchors (as for Velvet Green).

FA: Glenn Tempest, Karen Tempest & Roxanne Wells, 4 Ago 2017

Trad mista 25m, 3
20 They Eat Pigeons Don't They

A good line up the front of the buttress R of Falcon. Up the slippery crack (some find this the crux) to Falcon's ledge at about 8m. Step off this diagonally R past a bolt (shorter folks might find this the crux) then drift back L to a small corner and up slightly R to a juggy finish. Falcon's chains are just around the corner.

Start: Start at thin crack up the front of the buttress, 6m left of Phoenix.

FA: Peter Martin & Louise Shepherd, 1988

Trad mista 30m, 1
Tiger Wall Syrinx Area
20 Greasy Burritos Extension

Straight up from GB's anchor for 10m past 1 BR (staple). The lichen is gone but there's not much other gear apart from the bolt. New anchor (2017)

FA: Tim Day & Louise Shepherd, 1994

Trad mista 10m, 1
Tiger Wall Boulders Roadside Crag
V2 Campsite face traverse
Boulder 2m
V1 V1 problem
Boulder 4m
V2 V2 problem
Boulder 4m
V1 Jug Haul

Sit start on the jugs, heading straight upwards.

Boulder 3m
Tiger Wall Boulders Crankshaft Boulder
V1 Waterboys
Boulder 3m
V2/3 Waterboys XL

Climb Waterboys, upon arrival at the finish/lowering jugs heave up to gain and exit via the flake system as for Vague Corner.

Boulder 10m
V2/3 Sit the Waterboys

Sit start to Waterboys via a dino from the steep juggy rail.

Boulder 7m
V2/3 Lavender

Start as for Sit the Waterboys moving up and leftish to finish via the easier section of Left Wall.

Boulder 6m
V2/3 Watershaft

Start as for Sit the Waterboys moving right and up to exit as for Crankshaft.

Boulder 8m
Tiger Wall Boulders Gonzo Boulder
V2 Eat My Shorts
Boulder
Tiger Wall Boulders The Woody
V2 Woody backside compression

Sit start at a undercling. Then up the overhanging stump. Top out.

Boulder 3m
V1 Buzz

Start as for “the woody”, top out between the branch and the knob.

Boulder 3m

Tutti 23 vie visualizzati.

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