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Contrafort de Rumbau Tutte Arrampicata sportiva 86 vie in parete

86
FR
6a6b6c7a7b7c8a8b8c9a9b

Stagionalità

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Descrizione

The main and mega cliff of the area, an awesomely steep barrel-shaped wall.Winter crag as it is sunny from the morning until almost the end of the day.

Avvicinamento

First one need to arrive in a hotel called Hotel Restaurant Can Boix De Peramola. Just before the entrance of the hotel, there is a dirty road on the right. Take this road for a bit more of 1km and you will see a small path to go up to the crag on your left. You can also see the crag on your left.The access by walk is 5 min.

Pianifica viaggio

Meteo
Trova un alloggio
Guide

Vie

Aggiungi via Aggiungi scheda Riordina Modifica in blocco Converti gradi
Grado Via
1
6b+ Tavalón Sportiva 25m
2
6b El Sardo Sportiva 25m
3
6a+ Chupito de Sake Sportiva 30m
4
6a Old Moon Sportiva 35m
5
6c+ Figues d'un altre paner Sportiva 32m
6
7b ★ La Viga del Biga Sportiva 25m
7
6c+ El Calçotet del Bigarret Sportiva 22m
8
7b+ Emboscades Panxaquen Sportiva 22m
9
6a Judici al Process Sportiva 25m
10
6a+ Ketzna Sportiva 30m
11
7a Bloc Café Sportiva 30m
12
6a+ Entrada per Bloc Cafe sortida per Pitos Sportiva 20m
13
6c Pitos Sportiva 20m
14
6c ★ Entre pitos y flautas Sportiva 37m, 2

L1: 6c, L2: 6a+

15
6b ★ Flautas Sportiva 20m
16
7a ★★ ?? Sportiva 20m
17
6b+ ★ Cabernet Sportiva 15m
18
6c Burt Sportiva 18m
19
7c Reggleton Sportiva 40m
20
8a Brut nature Sportiva 42m
21
7b ★★ Placa Ferdinand Sportiva 25m
22
7a ★★ Route10 Sportiva 25m
23
7c ★ Directa al pastellón Sportiva 25m
24
7b ★★ Pastellón Sportiva 25m
25
8b+ ★★★ Crimptonite Sportiva 33m
26
8c ★★ T-1 Full Equip Sportiva 35m
27
8b+ China crisis Sportiva 35m
28
Rollito ninja SportivaProgetto 35m
29
8a ★★★ Mishi Sportiva 30m
30
7a+ ★★★ Nunca doy un paso atrás R1 Sportiva 20m
31
8c Nunca doy un paso atrás Sportiva 47m, 2

Tracciata: Dani Andrada

FFA: Domen Škofic, 2 Gen 2015

32
8a ★★ Happy hour Sportiva 35m
33
9a/a+ Happy Day Sportiva 47m, 2

FA: Adam Ondra, 10 Feb 2017

34
8b+ ★★★ Humildes pa casa Sportiva 48m, 2
1 7c
2 8b+
35
8c+ ★★★ Mind control Sportiva 45m

Monique Forestier's 2016 ascent of this route was the first Australian female ascent of a grade 8c+/34.

36
8a+ ★★★ Humildes pa'Arriba Sportiva 45m
37
Project 1 SportivaProgetto
38
Le Blond SportivaProgetto 45m
39
9b+ La Dura Dura / The Hard Hard Sportiva 50m

La Dura Dura means 'The Hard Hard', named as such because it was then regarded as one of the hardest rock climb in the world by non other that Chris Sharma .

Chris tried the routes for years, describing it as "horrifyingly" difficult and perhaps "not for me", until he invited Adam to try. They figured new beta together and the route was finally freed by Adam Ondra in February 2013, the second 9b+ at the time (after Change 9b+ in Flatanger, also freed by Ondra)

Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra regard it as being slightly harder than Change. No other climber has managed to repeat it yet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k

Ascents
:
  • Adam Ondra - 7 Feb 2013
  • Chris Sharma - 23 March 2013

FA: Adam Ondra

Tracciata: Chris Sharma, 2009

FFA: Adam Ondra, 2013

40
8c+/9a ★★ Duele la realidad Sportiva 50m, 2

Tracciata: Dani Andrada

FA: Ramon Julian, 2010

41
9a+ Chaxi Sportiva 45m

Different start than Chaxi Raxi.

FFA: Chris Sharma, 2011

42
9b Chaxiraxi / Shaxi Raxi Sportiva 45m

Tracciata: Chris Sharma

FFA: Adam Ondra, 2011

43
7b ★★ La realidad duele Sportiva 20m
44
8c ★★ Fish eye Sportiva 50m

Monique Forestier's 2012 ascent of this route was the first Australian female ascent of a grade 8c/33.

Tracciata: Chris Sharma, 2009

45
8c ★★★ American Hustle Sportiva 45m

FFA: Sam Elias, Mar 2014

Tracciata: Sam Elias & Walker Emerson, Mar 2014

46
7c+ ★★ Red Bull L1 Sportiva 35m

To the first anchors

47
8a+ ★★★ Red Bull L2 Sportiva 50m
48
7a ★★ La Marroncita L1 Sportiva 15m

Pitch one of La Marroncita

49
8b ★★★ La marroncita Sportiva 35m

7a first pitch, 8b second.

50
8c+ ★★★ Marroncita Extension Sportiva
51
8b+ ★★ Gorilas en la niebla Sportiva 50m
52
8c ★★★ El gran blau Sportiva 50m
53
8c+ ★★★ Joe Blau Sportiva
54
9a ★★ Joe Cita Sportiva

Joe Blau into Marroncita Extension

FA: Jakob Schubert

55
9a/a+ Patxitxulo / Patxixulo Sportiva

A connection of "Joe Blau" and "Papichulo".

FA: Patxi Usobiaga, Mar 2017

56
8c+ La Morenita Sportiva
57
9a+ ★★★ Papichulo Sportiva 45m

A resistance 50m route with limited rests, perfect rock and a sketchy slab finish.

Ascents

  • Chris Sharma - 31 May 2008
  • Adam Ondra - 24 Feb 2009
  • Ramón Julián Puigblanque
  • Sachi Amma
  • Cédric Lachat
  • Jakob Schubert
  • Domen Škofic
  • Magnus Midtbø
  • Mateusz Haladaj
  • Jonathan Siegrist
  • Daniel Woods
  • Matty Hong
  • Piotr Schab
  • Said Belhaj
  • Klemen Bečan
  • Patxi Usobiaga
  • Jon Cardwell
  • Felipe Camargo
  • Margo Hayes - 21 Mar 2019 - First Female ascent

FFA: Chris Sharma

Tracciata: Chris Sharma

FA: Chris Sharma, 2008

58
9b Mamichula Sportiva

This route connects Pachamama 9a+ and Papichulo 9a+ and was described by Adam Ondra as demanding "incredible power endurance without any rest."

Initially this connection seemed utterly extreme - perhaps even 9b+ like neighbouring Dura Dura freed by Ondra in 2013 - but was then rendered more "humane" when Ondra discovered a new sequence to get across the traverse. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVlGxVE_0uc

Ascents
:
  • Adam Ondra - 8 Feb 2017
  • Seb Bouin - 16 April 2019

FA: Adam Ondra, 8 Feb 2017

59
9a+ ★★★ Pachamama Sportiva 50m

Tracciata: Chris Sharma

FA: Chris Sharma, 2009

60
9a+ Joe Mama Sportiva

Tracciata: Joe Kinder

FA: Klemen Bečan, 1 Mar 2016

61
Viejo gudari SportivaProgetto 45m
62
9b ★★★ Fight or Flight Sportiva 35m

The route has a first part made of 25 very sustained movements graded 9a+, followed by a second 8c part with 12 movements including a dyno.

A knee bar has been found in the first crux (the sequence was downgraded from 8a to 7c+), however a hold has broken higher up on the dyno which makes it significantly harder to throw. All in all the route is still considered 9b

Ascents

  • Chris Scharma - 7 May 2011
  • Adam Ondra
  • Jakob Schubert
  • Sachi Amma
  • Piotr Schab

FA: Chris Sharma

FFA: Chris Sharma, 2011

63
8b ★★★ De picos pardos Sportiva 45m
64
Project 4 SportivaProgetto 45m
65
8c+ Blanquita Sportiva 50m
66
9a+ Power Inverter Sportiva 45m

Tracciata: Chris Sharma

FA: Chris Sharma, 2010

67
Project 5 SportivaProgetto 48m
68
8c ★★★ Paper mullat Sportiva 45m
69
8c ★★★ Identification y placa Sportiva 40m
70
8c El Gran Morau Sportiva 35m
71
7c+ ★★★ Soul rebel Sportiva 32m
72
8a+ ★★★ Mon dieu Sportiva 32m
73
8a+ ?-?. Sportiva 30m
74
8b Crunchi Sportiva 30m
75
7c+ ?!? Sportiva 25m
76
7c+ ★★★ Macedónia Sportiva 23m
77
7c ★★★ Parabolización Sportiva 23m
78
8a Via del Markus Sportiva 18m
79
7b+ Comando borrasca Sportiva 25m
80
7b ★★★ Victorinox Sportiva 25m
81
7a+ ?$? Sportiva 22m
82
7a ★★ Baja la moral Sportiva 20m
83
6b+ ★ Baja laboral Sportiva 20m
84
6a+ Canto hondo Sportiva 20m
85
6a+ Va de canto Sportiva 20m
86
6a+ ★★★ Mínim esfroç Sportiva 20m

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Selected Guidebooks more Nascondi

Lleida Climbs Guidebook

Autore/i: Pete O'Donovan and Dani Andrada

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9780956700650

A selective guidebook describing the sport climbing in the province of Lleida to the west of Barcelona and stretching into the Pyrenees, covering 22 different areas and almost 3,900 routes from F3 to F9. The 22 areas covered are Camarasa, St Llorenc de Montgai, Cubells, Alos de Balaguer, La Pauta, Santa Ana, Os de Balaguer, Tartareu, Santa Linya, Ager, Terradets, Vilanova de Meia, Abella de la Conca, Collegats, Oliana, Coll de Nargo, Perles, Canelles, Figols, Tres Ponts, Cavallers, and La Cova de Juncosa.

Acquista
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Alloggi in zona more Nascondi

Condividi questo

Vie classiche nelle vicinanze

7a ★★ Route10
7a+ ★★★ Nunca doy un paso atrás R1
7b ★★★ Victorinox
7c ★★★ Parabolización
7c+ ★★★ Soul rebel
8a ★★★ Mishi
8a+ ★★★ Mon dieu
8b ★★★ La marroncita
8b+ ★★★ Humildes pa casa
8c ★★★ Identification y placa
8c+ ★★★ Mind control
9a+ ★★★ Papichulo

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Old Moon 6a - 6a.jpg

Anna Liina Laitinen su Joe Mama 9a+ - Trying hard

Anna Liina Laitinen su ★★★ American Hustle 8c - American hustle

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