A big piece of rock that probably still has potential for more climbs.
©This prominent peak can be seen clearly from the Nairobi-Mombasa road on the north-east side. Its cliffs are 300m high and stretch for well over one km. At the south end they form a nose. The climb described goes up slabs left of the nose to a large vegetated terrace, then takes the exposed nose proper to the summit. Here superb views extend across the plains and Kibo can be seen on clear days. The whole summit area is covered with fine mature pine forest managed by the Forestry Department through whom a guest house near the summit (intermittent water supply) may also be booked. It is also possible to camp on the summit or near the guest house with no prior permission. For driving to the guest house or the summit a 4WD vehicle is essential. Though the climb itself is not outstanding it has a unique atmosphere, and coupled with the drive it makes a first class expedition. The nearest garage facilities, water and petrol are at Emali (47km). (source: Andrew Wielochowski)
Huge potential for difficult routes up the bigger sections of the wall, but the climbing is very exposed, the cracks very dirty, and the approach extremely difficult. Would likely require bolts, pegs, and aiding to get up much of the wall, but the opportunity for new FAs is big. (Max Weiner, visited 04/2019)
©Please be considerate of locals and do not pay for climbing (outside of National Parks) without first consulting the Mountain Club of Kenya.
©From Nairobi, the main Mombasa road to Emali. Turn left here and drive on a good dirt road north-east. After 15km a village with a roadside market is passed (Matiliku); in another 14km cross a watercourse; 700m beyond this, on right-hand side of road, take a sharp turn right onto a small track signposted: Kyenza Highway. If this turn-off is missed then in exactly 1.6km the centre of Nziu village is reached. From this turn-off continue along track for 11km to a fork. The left branch goes to the guest house; the right continues for a short distance to the summit. Allow at least 4h from Nairobi. Matatus go only as far as the start of the Kyenza Highway. (Source: Andrew Wielochowski)
Other than the Nose, most of the approach to the wall has become very overgrown in recent years. Few man made trails or game trails exist to access the base of the higher parts of the wall. Leave plenty of time for scrambling through the bush and bring extra water if you try to access these parts of the cliff, where climbs like mandarin are. - Max Weiner, April 2019
©If you want to open new climbs in Kenya, kindly contact the Mountain Club of Kenya (www.mck.or.ke). We'll be happy to help!
Here is our bolting policy, please abide by it: http://mountainclubkenya.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Bolting-Policy.pdf
©Alcuni contenuti sono stati forniti sotto licenza da: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)
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