A few chossy spots, watch for feet that might break. Not that classic. Top is goofy as hell and wandery.
26a+
10
스포츠 클라이밍
Wandery, but good holds in the tufas. Fun moves. The anchor is super far right, up on a ledge. It is not on the normal bolt line. You will miss it if you aren’t looking for it. When the route starts to trend back to the left above you, look right for the anchor.
37a+
32
스포츠 클라이밍
What a freakin’ adventure, man. There was too much rope drag because I linked this from the ground. I had to keep down climbing and removing draws to straighten the rope.
Eventually I got too tired from this and had to rest while pulling the crux over the bulge. The crux is an amazing, committing throw from an overhanging pinch with a high foot, maybe only an 6c+ move. Isolated from rest it did not feel 7a+ but with the moves below it probably is.
Then you get another amazingrest before the tufa crux above, which is equally amazing, heady and a little technical. Reward yourself with a full sit-down rest on an tufa. Again maybe 6c+ moves. There is a LOT of choss up on this pitch, I knocked off a lot of rock and there is still a lot of feet that will come off that could injure people below. Anchors only have 1 quick-link. It could use another link on the top hanger.
I did this route as one mega-pitch starting from Gina. Do not recommend. Rope drag was atrocious because the bolting is done right on the line of the climb, going really far left, then really far right, then left and over a bulge, with wanton disregard for drag. I’ve never climbed a line with a line of bolts as insane as this. They are good bolts, properly- spaced and safe for falls but you are going to have a lot of drag without 120cm extensions almost everywhere.
Bring a LOT of slings. It needs permanent extensions. Definitely do this as a multi-pitch. I managed to get to the ground with an 80m, from the very top after cleaning. When I touched the ground the rope was at the very end. If you left all the gear in the wall you would not be able to get to the ground from the top anchor.
There is a lot of choss and friable rock left on the 3rd pitch, mainly feet. Use caution. I did not break any handholds but some of the better tufa holds felt like they could still crumble a bit or downsize.
Bring a LOT of slings. It needs permanent extensions. Definitely do this as a multi-pitch. I managed to get to the ground with an 80m, from the very top after cleaning. When I touched the ground the rope was at the very end. If you left all the gear in the wall you would not be able to get to the ground from the top anchor.
There is a lot of choss and friable rock left on the 3rd pitch, mainly feet. Use caution. I did not break any handholds but some of the better tufa holds felt like they could still crumble a bit or downsize.