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계절특성

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설명

This is one of the best sections of cliff in the Grand Canyon area with a fairly continuous cliff line. As well as some fierce wall routes there is a good range of middle grade routes mostly on clean sound rock. To descend head back from the top of the cliff to find a deep gully running parallel with the cliff, follow this L ward to descend just beyond Chinese Take-away

접근 문제들 Grampians으로부터 상속된

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

윤리문제 Grampians으로부터 상속된

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

태그들

루트들

루트 추가 그림안내지도 추가 재 주문 대용량 편집 변환된 등급
등급 루트

Prominent overhanging crack [first good line R of descent gully] at L end of a yellow section of wall. Step up and R to crack. It widens and steepens near the top.

FA: Jerry Maddox, Richard Hitchins & Iain Sedgman, 1978

Thin crack direct to reach main crack.

FA: James McIntosh, Peter Jacob & Andrew Webb, 1998

Starts up the L leading ramp starting just L of the big groove line of Fire Dragon. Pull up onto the ramp [hard and committing for the short]. Follow ramp Lward. Step up and L when ramp runs out. Up and slightly L on surprising holds on steep wall. A good outing for the grade.

FA: Chris Baxter & Sue Baxter, 1990

Start 3 m left of arete. Incuts to join original route at end of ramp.

FA: Glen Donohue, Graeme Smith & Andrew Webb, 1996

Beyond the LH end of the wall with the bolted sport routes are 3 deep old fashioned cracks. This is the LH one in a R facing corner. A good steep exercise in awkward jamming and bridging technique. [This route was shown as being The Good Soldier Schwiek in the Select Guide]

FA: Mike March, Terry Brooks & Iain Sedgman, 1973

Steep flake crack 2m R of FD leads up and slightly R to a ledge. Climb steep crack in arête and face above.

FA: Simon Barnaby Stuart Gardner, 1989

Deep crack line R of TGSS. From the first ledge it is possible to step into the upper crack of TGSS for a grade 17 jamming route. This is the combination that appeared in the Grampians Select Guide as Fire Dragon.

FA: Mike March & Iain Sedgman, 1973

Crack 4m R of Rickshaw.

FA: Mike March, Terry Brooks & Iain Sedgman, 1973

The moves at the first bolt are much harder since some holds have been shed. This is followed by some excellent pocket pulling, however it's hard not to escape some of the hard moves up higher. Some wires protect the climbing after the 4th bolt.

FA: Simon Carter, 1990

Follow the line of FH and rings to the rap anchor. The bolts are not great but you can do Sacred Ground and TR it.

FA: David Singleton & Rebecca Butcher, 1995

First RB of Tatrazine then left side of the black groove finishing at the shared anchors up to the left. 5 RBs

FFA: Matt & Daniel Brooks, 1991

1 RB at the (desperate) start then black chimney/groove to anchors on Sprung.

Bolted, featured black streak in the centre of wall. Retrobolted, but crux bolt is still old and dodgy. Take some wires, slings, medium cams to supplement bolts. No anchor - top out or diagonal across to anchor on Sprung after 2nd last bolt.

이 절벽는 위치되지 않았습니다.

만일 이 {지역형태}가 어디있는지 아시면 등반공동체를 위하여 시간을 내어 위치를 알려주십시오. 문제가 있으시면 연락을 주세요 {저희에게연락 페이지}.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

일자: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

일자: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

일자: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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