도움

Eastern Block

계절특성

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

설명

A smooth rounded face to the right of the Twin Ribs, offering moderate to difficult slab climbing.

접근 문제들 Eardley Escarpment으로부터 상속된

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

접근

Follow Chemin de l'Hotel de Ville to the very end and park - leave room for other cars to turn around. Follow the path, keep left at the fork. Eventually it will curve slightly to the right, you will see two sets of wooden ladders, after that, stay to the right, and scramble up a rock slab which has a rope to help you get up.

Currently, the static rope that allowed easier access to Eastern Block up the steep rock slab has been removed.

Base of the crag is 45 31.889 N, 75 58.915 W.

PDF Trail Map to access Eastern Block: http://www.ncc-ccn.gc.ca/sites/default/files/pubs/NCC-CCN-Map-Carte-Official-Site-Officiel-Rock-Climbing-Escalade-Twin-Ribs-Eastern-Block-Aug-2010.pdf

윤리문제 Eardley Escarpment으로부터 상속된

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

태그들

루트들

루트 추가 그림안내지도 추가 재 주문 대용량 편집 변환된 등급
등급 루트

Bolt line left of "Ethics Police".

High first bolt, but could maybe take gear at start?

Beware the top half of this climb gets hard fast and it can be tempting to travel off route to the sides. Beware, if you travel too far this could result in a nasty swing if on lead.

Climb up over a section of fractured rock to smoother slab then a small oval cave. Continue up past the cave to the top anchors. (Rap rings.)

Very high first bolt -- gear nice at the start, but not needed thereafter. Can be climbed sport if you don't mind the high-ball start.

FA: S. Montgomery, 1992

Bolt route squeezed in between "Ethics Police" and "Mr Clean". Occasionally borrows holds from each.

Goes at about 5.9 if you wander around a bit. Direct finish, up the smooth slab, probably harder, maybe 5.11ish?

In the lower part of the cliff there is a nearly vertical about 9" wide pink dike that protrudes out from the rest of the cliff by an inch or two, and a bolt line running up it.

Mr Clean climbs the dike, and face above, to anchors.

FA: B. Winsborrow, 1992

Runs parallel to Mr Clean up the blank slab to its right.

FA: Peter Slivka, 1992

경고 Fixed Gear: Bolt 1 hanger loose

FA: K. Mkulash, 1993

FA: Peter Slivka, 1992

This wanders up the water streak on the right side of the cliff.

FA: B. Winsborrow, 1992

Short route at the far right end of the cliff. Nice warm-up for the fairly stiff 5.8 routes on the rest of the cliff.

안녕하세요!

첫 방문이세요?

theCrag.com은 골수 암벽등반가들과 볼더러들 그리고 좋은 사람들이 협동하여 편집한 전 세계의 암벽등반지를 위한 무료 안내 사이트입니다. 귀하는 모든 루트들을 일지로 기록할 수 있고 다른 등반가들과 연결하여 대화도 나눌 수 있으며 더 많은 것들을 할 수 있습니다. » 탐색하세요, » 더 많이 알기 or » 저희들에게 질문 하십시오.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

목요일 20 4월
무슨일이 일으나고 있는지 Eastern Block 알아보세요.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文