등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 질 | 등반가 | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
수요일 20번째 1월 2021 - Land of Confusion | ||||||
Eggs | ||||||
V4 |
★★ Loose Shoes
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V4 |
★★ Billiards
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V3 |
★ Keith probablly did it
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
V3 |
★ Meatloaf
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
V3 |
Vedges
![]() | Average | ||||
V0 |
Wup
![]() | Don't Bother | ||||
토요일 16번째 1월 2021 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||
The Spot | ||||||
5.8 |
★★ Tradasaurus
![]() #2 of the day. Frozen toes couldn't hold me back from trying this - since Jamie was so kind to rope solo it and leave the rope up, it gave me a chance to TR and clean it. Good route, will have to take a closer look at it when I'm not freezing my toes and hands off. | 20m | ★ Good | |||
5.7 5.9 |
★★ Flake'n
![]() #1 of the day. Very fun route. Downclimbed a bit near the start to remove a draw to eliminate some drag; skipped some draws to help with drag too, but it's probably hopeless. Can't fight the drag. Next time would use fewer draws entirely as it's a pretty safe (if runout) route that way. It's also been suggested to do it in 2 pitches, perhaps using the rings above Tradasaurus as a belay ledge. Guidebook recommended rapping back down on Phat Tuesday rap rings, but we overshot that and ended up rapping off one of the Industrial Area routes - possibly Memories. It was dirty, slabby, icy, and only looked fun at the top over the roof, so... pulled the rope instead of making a TR boondoggle of it. | 55m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
토요일 16번째 1월 2021 - West Penant | ||||||
Thoughtful Spot Trespassers Will Area | ||||||
V0 |
★ Warm-up on Crack
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
V3 V3 to V7 |
★ Sandbag Corner
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
V2 |
★ Progresso
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
V3 |
Pigglet
![]() | Average | ||||
목요일 14번째 1월 2021 - Annapolis Valley | ||||||
Old Mill Crag | ||||||
5.9 |
★★ Whiskey Tango Foxtrot
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
수요일 13번째 1월 2021 - West Penant | ||||||
Thoughtful Spot Sean's Belt Boulder | ||||||
V4 |
Sean's Belt Problem
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
화요일 29번째 12월 2020 - Land of Confusion | ||||||
Mega Boulder | ||||||
V2 |
No Easy Way
![]() | |||||
화요일 29번째 12월 2020 - Land of Confusion | ||||||
Scrappy Boulders Main Boulder | ||||||
V4 |
Gastropod
![]() | |||||
월요일 28번째 12월 2020 - Land of Confusion | ||||||
Bug City | ||||||
5.9 |
★★ War Pigs
![]() Second lead-n-clean of the day. Mostly just scrubbed off a bunch of the slippery grey lichen on the face and the crunchy black stuff too. Fun climb, even with pauses to scrub. | 7m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 |
★ Biting the Head off a Chicken
![]() Attempted the start of Ride The Lightning but couldn't get more than one step off the ground, so gave up and TR'd Biting the head instead. More lichen scrubbing enroute. | 7m, 3 | Average | |||
5.8 |
★ Crazy Train
![]() My first ever ground-up lead-n'-clean (clead?). Bit of a pain to scamper up the face, but with the big crack cleaned out a bit, should be more fun (and possibly a trad line now?). Unclear if that'll make it a lower grade or just a more fun climb. Still more dirt to be scrubbed from the crack but at least now there are side pulls above and below it. | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
목요일 24번째 12월 2020 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||
The Spot | ||||||
5.7 |
★ Cocksure
![]() Got out for one quick Xmas Eve climb, preceded by a big ol' bushwhack right up to the far left of the crag because we walked right past the trailhead. | 13m | ★ Good | |||
월요일 14번째 12월 2020 - Land of Confusion | ||||||
Scrappy Boulders Big Cube | ||||||
V2 |
★ Major Payne
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
월요일 14번째 12월 2020 - Land of Confusion | ||||||
Scrappy Boulders Little Cube | ||||||
V2 |
The House Plant Expert
![]() | |||||
V2 |
The Green House Expert
![]() | |||||
월요일 14번째 12월 2020 - Land of Confusion | ||||||
Mega Boulder | ||||||
V2 |
★ Mr Freeze
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
금요일 11번째 12월 2020 - Land of Confusion | ||||||
Corn and Bung Corn | ||||||
V4 |
★ Cornholio
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
목요일 10번째 12월 2020 - Land of Confusion | ||||||
Corn and Bung Bung | ||||||
V4 |
★★ Milking the Cow Early Exit
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V3 |
★★ Taco Dish
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
목요일 10번째 12월 2020 - Land of Confusion | ||||||
Corn and Bung Corn | ||||||
V0 |
★ Jackpot
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
화요일 8번째 12월 2020 - Polly's Cove | ||||||
Polly's Cover Proper | ||||||
V3 |
★★★ The Leaner
![]() | ★★★ Classic | ||||
V3 |
★★ You Have a Wide Crack
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V2 |
★★ About Beef
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V0 |
Addicted to Dirty Faces
![]() | |||||
V1 |
Poop Chute
![]() | |||||
화요일 8번째 12월 2020 - Polly's Cove | ||||||
Warm Up Area | ||||||
V2 |
★★ Pinch a Loaf
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V0 |
Poultry
![]() | |||||
V0 |
Warm-up Crack
![]() | |||||
V0 |
Lower Crack
![]() | |||||
V0 |
Bomerang
![]() | |||||
V0 |
Lie Back Crack
![]() | |||||
V0 |
Baby Crack
![]() | |||||
V1 |
Shitbag Shorty
![]() | |||||
V0 |
The Banana Holder
![]() | |||||
화요일 8번째 12월 2020 - Land of Confusion | ||||||
Memorial Boulder & Memorial Wall Memorial Boulder | ||||||
V3 |
★ The Cheese Jug
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
V3 |
★★★ 111
![]() | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
화요일 8번째 12월 2020 - Land of Confusion | ||||||
Scrappy Boulders Main Boulder | ||||||
V3 |
★ A.W.P.
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
V3 |
★★ Skwishy Tuna
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
화요일 8번째 12월 2020 - Land of Confusion | ||||||
Robotic Wall | ||||||
V0 |
Heuco Dreams
![]() | |||||
V2 |
Sensory Feedback
![]() | |||||
화요일 8번째 12월 2020 - Land of Confusion | ||||||
Corn and Bung Bung | ||||||
V2 |
★★ Razer's Edge
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
화요일 8번째 12월 2020 - Land of Confusion | ||||||
Corn and Bung Corn | ||||||
V3 |
★★ The Whale's Back
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
월요일 7번째 12월 2020 - Land of Confusion | ||||||
Nouveau Riche | ||||||
V3 |
★★ La Vie En Rose
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V2 |
★ When Bitter and Ugly Meet
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
토요일 5번째 12월 2020 - Virginia Slab | ||||||
5.9 |
★★★ Woolf of Wallstreet
![]() | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
금요일 4번째 12월 2020 - Land of Confusion | ||||||
Lake, Satellite & Cat Lake Boulder | ||||||
V2 |
Body Drop
![]() | 3m | ||||
V0 |
Lake Warm-up
![]() | |||||
일요일 15번째 11월 2020 - Eagle's Nest | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
5.7 |
★★ Boomin' System
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
금요일 23번째 10월 2020 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||
Railway Crag | ||||||
5.7 |
★★★ Ghostwriter
![]() OMG awesome climb. Great hands for getting introduced to trad climbing and if you're not great at climbing cracks, this route gives you layback, stemming, and face options too. | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.7 5.7 G |
★★ De-railed
![]() #1. Took one take just before the roof crux, then went left across the horizontal crack and onto the face. Repeated the climb on TR to check out the more dynamic solution (to the right up the hand crack. Both fun options. | 15m | ★ Good | |||
월요일 19번째 10월 2020 - Sorrow's End | ||||||
Sorrow's End Right | ||||||
5.7 5.7 PG |
★★★ Dreamberry Wine
![]() #1. Climbed on TR, plugging gear to mock-lead where I could: only 3 cams placed. Not a fan of the runout start, but the climbing is great on TR. | 15m | ||||
5.7 |
★★ Bienvenue Au Poulettier
![]() #3. Fun route, decently protectable as a mock lead on TR, once you're two bolts in and have to start plugging cams. Tried a few things before I could protect the first horizontal crack -- an early cam placement attempt popped out and smacked me in the face when I yanked on it. Didn't love that cam, but left it in until I got one tier higher, placed a better cam, then removed the lower one. Moral here is: get ready to be runout, but the climbing is easy. Could lead this next time around. | 13m, 2 | ||||
5.10b |
Float Like a Butterfly
![]() #2. Didn't solve the top section crux - pulled on the bolt instead to get through the move. Later found out I'd missed a right hand pull, which would have made the difference. | 4 | ||||
월요일 19번째 10월 2020 - Sorrow's End | ||||||
Sorrow's End Left | ||||||
5.8 5.8 G |
★ See With Joy
![]() #6. Didn't bother to explore trad placements here, since everyone said it's bomber and very easy to protect. Ran up it in 5 mins on TR. Would lead this on trad next time. | 13m | ||||
월요일 19번째 10월 2020 - Sorrow's End | ||||||
Sorrow's End Right | ||||||
5.8 5.8 G |
★★ Recognition
![]() #4. Safer start than Dreamberry Wine, but also includes a long runout layback section... so while the climb is awesome, I'd consider the pro PG unless you're good at jamming and placing gear. (I'm not there yet.) | 15m | ||||
5.10b |
★★★ All the Rage
![]() #5. Challenging, and way more fun than Float Like a Butterfly. Tricky, technical, and crimpy on sharp bits. Good reminder of what I've forgotten due to (what feels like) a year of COVID and less than optimal training. Would not want to climb this on lead as the bottom is cruxy and the fall potential is strong. Great on TR though. | 15m, 5 | ||||
화요일 13번째 10월 2020 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||
The Spot | ||||||
5.8 |
★★ The Old In-and-Out (aka Baiting Bambi)
![]() #5. OK, so this route was awesome, even including the rusty bail biners at the top instead of rap rings, and the fact that I got my foot stuck in the crack near the anchor. 5/5, would climb again. | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.8 |
★ Twinkle Toes
![]() After much deliberation and whining, I finally got on this slab. (I hate slabs.) Stick clipped the first two bolts and thankfully so. The top half is nice for a slab. The bottom... not a fan. Good route, just not a fan of slabs. | 3 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 |
★★★ While You Were Sexting
![]() #1 of the day, and my second ever trad lead. Dumped like 4-5 cams and a single nut in there, then got a bit runout at the top. GREAT belay ledge for bringing up a second and then rapping back down. Karla's first trad clean in a while - got out the token nut w/o a tool. | 14m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.10a |
★★★ Cat and Mouse
![]() #3. First time doing this on lead, and it was everything I thought it would be from the last time on TR with Peter. | 11m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.8 |
Who Needs Viagra
![]() #2. Ugh, still hate this route. Did it on TR and still couldn't land the opening move (tried to do it from below instead of from the left face). And then veered off into the 5.7 higher up. Not a fan. Karla crushed the opening move though, and stayed more true to the route. | 14m, 4 | Average | |||
화요일 13번째 10월 2020 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||
Castle | ||||||
5.8 |
★★ Wizards of the Castle
![]() #5. Deliberately went off course to check out the trad line to the left, Castle Breach. Need to come back and hit that with trad gear next time. | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.6 |
★ Murder Hole
![]() #2. Went over to the murder hole for a second climb. Need to try climbing this some time without doing the traverse from the far right under the murder hole. | ★ Good | ||||
5.7 |
★ Up the Beanstalk
![]() #1. Ran up this and threw a TR on it so Kathryn could experience climbing again after a few years off. | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 |
★★ Wizards of the Castle
![]() #4. Kathryn liked this one best of the 3 she did, even doing a second lap. | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a |
★★ Stoke-i-fy
![]() #3. Some super helpful climbers offered to let me TR on their gear so I could try the beta they'd figured out (forget hand jamming the slot, throw a high heel onto the face). Bomber. Thanks to Becca and Eric for the beta and the catch! | ★★ Very Good | ||||
토요일 10번째 10월 2020 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||
Castle | ||||||
5.9 |
★★ Quantum Shopvac
![]() #5, #6. After leading this, did a couple extra laps on TR to explore other lines. Also went half-way up the 5.11a to the left before jogging back to the safety of the TR 5.9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.7 |
★ Up the Beanstalk
![]() #1, #2. easy warmup. Did a lap, then Karla led through the gear, then I went up again to clean and rap down. | 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a |
★★ Stoke-i-fy
![]() #7. Finished the day here. Starts deceptively easy before the roof appears. Could not pull the roof in one go, or two goes, or three goes. Hooray for hangdog. Eventually just batman'd up to cheap my way to the horn above the roof. | |||||
5.8 |
★★ Fee Fi Fo Fum
![]() #3. easy and fun. Karla climbed on TR, then got her rappel on to be nice to the fixed gear. Woo! | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 |
★★ Quantum Shopvac
![]() #4. Loads of fun. Wanted to also do Noble Cause but it was super wet. Did a couple of extra laps on TR to explore other lines... the face, the corner, the cheater-chimney. Might have rested once or twice. | ★★ Very Good | ||||
토요일 26번째 9월 2020 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||
The Spot | ||||||
5.7 5.7 G |
Everybody's Baby
![]() #6: last route of the day. Good for your first ever trad lead, since the climbing is uninteresting, so there's not much thinking required. Hands are good and the protection is decent (once you scrub out the dirty cracks) and you can faff about picking nuts and cams while standing on decent ledges. So it's low stress, but there's no real wow factor. | 17m | Average | |||
5.7 |
★★★ While You Were Sexting
![]() #1 of the day: Peter put up this route, I cleaned, then we rapped down. Reminder that I need to practice top-belay more. Fun. | 14m | ★ Good | |||
5.9 |
★★ Phat Tuesday
![]() #4 on the day. If you pina coladas, and sketchy slab routes from hell... this started out scary (I suck at slabs), got worse (more like 5.10-?) and then became a mix of easy 5.7ish stuff and interesting 5.10ish moves. Nice and long overall, with great exposure, with a beautiful anchor station to top-belay and rap from. 100% worth the struggle, but wow, it was work to get through the first bit. This is rated a 5.9+ in the Rock Climbing Nova Scotia guidebook... and clearly the + is accurate when describing the crux(es) at the start. We used a 70M rope to get back to the Whisky ledge, and then climbed down the gully. Unclear if a 60M rope would have been enough. | 50m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 |
★★ Teenage Burnout
![]() #5 of the day. I was told to expect a scary traverse over the arete at the top to get to the rings but after the bottom part of Phat Tuesday, this was a walk in the park. | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a |
★★★ Cat and Mouse
![]() #3 route. Peter climbed though my gear on Who Needs Viagara to clean it (and to avoid the swinging mess that I made of the first couple moves), then moved the anchor over to Cat and Mouse, which I found super easy, barely an inconvenience. Did two TR laps. Should do it on lead, it's a really friendly route. | 11m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 |
Who Needs Viagra
![]() #2 of the day: stick-clipped the first bolt (didn't read the guide book advice, just figured it looked unsafe). Good thing too, since I fell of it at least 3 times (yay for attentive belayers and soft catches!). Did finally solve the initial beta and worked though the rest. Might have rested part way up? Anyway good route, possibly more like a 5.9? | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
일요일 20번째 9월 2020 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||
The Spot | ||||||
5.6 |
★★ Leave it to Beaver
![]() Dirty crack at the start, but some great laybackin' crackin'. Dumped a bunch of unnecessary trad gear in there for practice on the way up, since after the first 3 bolts it felt super duper safe. | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.6 |
★★ Bye Bye Beep
![]() Stick clipped the start because the first couple moves felt harder than they really were. Also plugged a bunch of cams and nuts in there just to play at a trad route. Other than the first 1-2 clips, the rest of the route would probably make for a great trad route. | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
일요일 13번째 9월 2020 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||
Castle | ||||||
5.8 |
★★ Fee Fi Fo Fum
![]() Route #1 of the day. Fun warmup. | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 |
★★ Wizards of the Castle
![]() #5. Fun end to the day. | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.6 |
★ Murder Hole
![]() #4 of the day - ran into some climbers who explained that the anchors are titanium glue ins, rather than the usual bolt + ring anchor. Lots of room to run a rappel line, which I did. Karla then TR'd it (which I suppose isn't really ideal for the rope or the fixed gear). | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 |
★★ The Assassination of Blunderbore
![]() Route #3 - lots of fun on this one. | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 |
★ Smell the Blood
![]() Route #2. Should have read the description more closely, to know it rambles to the left and joins the anchor at Declaration Of Stoke. Made for a wee bit of an adventure as a fellow climber was heading up that one at the same time but graciously let me top out and rap down before him. Wouldn't say I loved the route - not ideal to clean on rappel as there's a ton of swing potential on the way down. | ★ Good | ||||
수요일 9번째 9월 2020 - Musquodoboit Valley Area | ||||||
Castle | ||||||
5.6 |
★★ Crocodile Tiers
![]() Not what I expected for a warmup route, but turned out to be pretty fun. Great intro to quality NS granite and just how sticky all those tiny nubs can be. Also a great spot to practice rappel, since it's a slab. Note: to protect my belayer I threw a .5 or .75 cam in the wall to the right of the route, in case I came sliding down. | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 |
★ Up the Beanstalk
![]() Easy peasy. Way easier than Crocodile Tiers if you're used to jugs vs. grippy slabs. Shaz enjoyed this one too, and I got to do a second rappel practice that was much faster than the first. | 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a |
★ Slim Dusty
![]() Guidebook told me not to bother but it was RIGHT THERE next to Up the Beanstalk, and it was an overhang crack climb. So... yeah, I had to try it. Stick clipped the first draw, and shoved a small TCU in the wall between the first and second draws partly for the gear placement practice (I'm learning trad, finally!) and partly because, well, I felt the route kinda wanted more protection. Hung on that for a bit, proving that it was a good placement. | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
화요일 8번째 9월 2020 - Sorrow's End | ||||||
Sorrow's End Right | ||||||
5.7 5.7 PG |
★★★ Dreamberry Wine
![]() | 15m | ||||
화요일 8번째 9월 2020 - Sorrow's End | ||||||
Sorrow's End Left | ||||||
5.12c |
★★★ Transformer
![]() | 15m, 6 | ||||
화요일 8번째 9월 2020 - Sorrow's End | ||||||
Sorrow's End Right | ||||||
5.10b |
★★★ All the Rage
![]() | 15m, 5 | ||||
수요일 5번째 8월 2020 - Crystal Crescent | ||||||
The Main Area Low Ball Wall | ||||||
V4 |
★★ Figure Four Thing
![]() | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
수요일 5번째 8월 2020 - Crystal Crescent | ||||||
IMAX Area | ||||||
V1 |
Spread 'Em
![]() |