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Waldkopf 모든 스포츠 클라이밍 6 루트들 에서의 암장

6
UIAA
910-10+11

계절특성

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

접근 문제들 Frankenjura Nord으로부터 상속된

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

접근

GPS: 11.60229, 49.63480

윤리문제 Frankenjura Nord으로부터 상속된

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

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1
11 ★ Action Directe 스포츠 클라이밍 15m

The world's first UIAA 11 (8c+/ 9a) and today considered a benchmark for 9a.

The original route bolted by Milan Sykora traversed in from the right, but Güllich bolted a more direct start that consisted of crux dynamic move to a two-finger pocket.

The route is named after a French far-left terrorist group which was active between 1979 and 1987, murdering 12 people and injuring 26. Apparently the inspiration for the name came during training for the route (including mono campusing) as it appeared to Wolfgang that the intense training required was an act of terror against his fingers. It was also a fitting name for the direct start Wolfgang had bolted.

It took 11 days of efforts for Wolfgang to free the short (5 bolts / 15m) but powerful route, which he did using a 16-move sequence on September 14 1991. The route has seen about 20 repeats after the first ascent by Wolfgang Güllich †.

The fastest redpoint to date was by Alex Megos who sent the route in just 2 hours. He has repeated the route 4 more times since.

Ascents

Set: Milan Sykora

FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1991

2
9 Feiste Fäuste / Rote Wand 스포츠 클라이밍 12m, 5
3
9+ Teddy's Wampe 스포츠 클라이밍 15m
4
10- ★★★ Slimline / Slim Line 스포츠 클라이밍 13m
5
10- MaWi's Wampe 스포츠 클라이밍 12m
6
9+ ★★ Sachsenboulder 스포츠 클라이밍 6m

FFA: Alexander Adler

정보 필요

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카르마에 의한 최고의 공헌자들

공헌자들 보기 | 카르마

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Franken 1 - northern Frankenjura Volume 1

Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker

일자: 2023

ISBN: 9783938680490

Volume 1 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6450 routes on 479 crags - the complete work, including Volume 2, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Buy
ⓘ
Franken 2 - northern Frankenjura Volume 2

Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker

일자: 2020

Volume 2 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6790 routes on 387 crags - the complete work, including Volume 1, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Buy
ⓘ
Frankenjura Band 1 - Kletterführer

Author(s): Sebastian Schwertner

일자: 2021

Buy
ⓘ

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10- ★★★ Slimline

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