등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 질 | 등반가 | |||
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화요일 20번째 2월 2024 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær | |||||||
WI4 | ★★★ Høyre linje | ★★★ 클래식 | |||||
Sick route. Only followed. It was my first proper multi pitch ice climb!
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토요일 9번째 9월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Oceanside minnerisset Boulder A | |||||||
7A 쉬움 | ★★ Master Blaster variant | ||||||
월요일 4번째 9월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
7-/7 | ★★★ Djupfjord sprickan - 누구와 caitlin | 20m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
One to come back for
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월요일 4번째 9월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Living in Paradise | |||||||
5 | ★★ Living in Paradise - 누구와 caitlin | 20m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
월요일 4번째 9월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Kallebukta Apa | |||||||
6- | ★★ Apa - 누구와 Sydney | 15m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Was fun large fist/stack crack. Good for technique training. If was 5-10 m longer would be an absolute classic and probably 2 grades harder.
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월요일 4번째 9월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Living in Paradise | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Ayers Rock - 누구와 Caitlin, Will | 20m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Was hard little crux and I wussed out and rested. Was nice to remind myself that climbing isnt always about getting the onsights, good to go out and chill a bit sometime.
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월요일 4번째 9월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Rørvika Upper Wall | |||||||
6a | ★★★ Automatic for the People - 누구와 Caitlin, Will | 45m, 11 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Fun climbing, with some very thought provoking bolt spacing! Was climbed rather slowly. Longgg single pitch
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6- | ★★★ Tom Jones - 누구와 Caitlin, Will | ★★★ 클래식 | |||||
Long, diagonal R) leaning crack system with diverse gear and movements. Crux was moving through laybacking offwidth dihedral crack thingy. Could knee bar often and was hella fun climbing.
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월요일 4번째 9월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Guns n' Roses - 누구와 Caitlin | 90m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Caitlin led first and 3rd and me second. Was quality. 2nd pitch was some brash jamming!
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6 | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen - 누구와 Caitlin | 95m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
I led second picth, Cailtin the first and 3rd. Fun climb.
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월요일 4번째 9월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret - 누구와 caitlin | 20m | 평균 | ||||
Tried in the rain, was desperate to climb. This is a friction, stem, layback corner. Had many regrets. Needed to bail and then set up top anchor to clean my gear. Still had fun
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월요일 4번째 9월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Lille Festvåg | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Gaukerisset - 누구와 caitlin | 65m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Crux was fun and committing. The rest of the climbing is dreamy. Best easier grade layback crack ive climbed.
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월요일 4번째 9월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy The Coast Geitvika | |||||||
7- | ★★★ Pan - 누구와 Caitlin | 130m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
월요일 4번째 9월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | |||||||
7- | ★★★ Fire forsøk - 누구와 Caitlin | 80m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Was a bit nervous, before committing to the crux so had a rest. Was actually non complicated and not very strenuous
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6 | ★★★ Lundeklubben - 누구와 Caitlin | 90m | |||||
월요일 4번째 9월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
7- | ★★★ Tapir | 20m, 1 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
화요일 29번째 8월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Nipen Junior veggen | |||||||
4b | Puffen | 평균 | |||||
5b | Herran og Derran | 평균 | |||||
6a | Duffen | 평균 | |||||
5c | Verktogskrekk | ||||||
5b | Puffin | 평균 | |||||
6a | Balansere | 평균 | |||||
6a+ | Vanskelig | 평균 | |||||
4b | Doffen | 평균 | |||||
화요일 29번째 8월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Sandvika Main Wall | |||||||
5b | ★ Turboelskeren | ★ 좋음 | |||||
6c | ★★ Campingliv | ★★ 아주좋음 | |||||
일요일 20번째 8월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Englevinger | 85m, 1 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Led P2 which was the crux. Missed a footer first time up. P3 has no real off width moves and was steep fun. The description and topo doesn’t make clear the down climb needed to get onto P3
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5 | ★★ Rapellruta | 48m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Last climb, no one waiting to descend, bouldery start into grade 12 jug haul.
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금요일 18번째 8월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Lys og Skygge | 60m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Another nice route with convenient rap chains. These routes had been always packed this past week, so we took the opportunity when vacant to do them
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5+ | ★★ Appelcake Arete | 60m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
A bit too much rope drag to do as one long pitch, stopped about 9 m below top. Nice climb
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금요일 18번째 8월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren | 480m | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
First of parties on the route, the down side it was the breeziest day we had encountered in the past 7 weeks. Had planned to lead in blocks of 4 to stay warm, but I was still shivering uncontrollably after 4 pitches which didn’t stop until we got to the sun on pitch 10. Great climb, lots of laybacking but with frictional feet not arduous. The descent takes some energy and down climbing too. I was sick of the back pack by the end of the day
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수요일 16번째 8월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Finnvika | |||||||
6b | ★★ Bormeister Fausa | 22m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Really nice climbing as well, with a very funky hold.
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6a+ | ★★★ Drømmen om Michaela | 20m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Much easier when we got on the right route.
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6c/c+ | ★ Mono Bongo | 20m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Climbing in the Watagans has made me so used to sandbagged slabs that I really didn’t question that I wasn’t on the 6 a+ we thought we were doing (non updated digital Rockfax) despite a hard move involving a mono and some tenuous footers. Did clip anchors of 6 a+ on the way because they are in reach before going to this routes anchors above. A little too close to the route to the right at the last bolt.
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5c | ★ Fjell og vidde klatring | 15m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
A late start after yesterdays rain, and watching the game ( sigh) saw us alone here clipping bolts. Beautiful setting, great featured slabs, good bolts, fresh raspberries on the walk in and easy parking that didn’t leave us grappling with yet another app- what’s not to like
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월요일 14번째 8월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen | 95m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Led P2. P1 and 2 are really nice. P3 a bit average with some suspect rock.
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6 | ★★★ Gamle rev | 110m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Led P1, it is really nice once you get to the actual start. P2 has 2 vegetated ramps that detract, and difficult to create top belay, especially if you are on a 60 m rope. I had to simulclimb about 3 m to give Dave enough.
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일요일 13번째 8월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret — 2 attempts | 20m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Nice enough, I was just over boulder hopping trying to follow Rockfax directions to find crags. Very cruxy and reachy. Second go.
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6 R | ★ Love Me Two Times | 20m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Not a bad route but with the bolts gone not a leadable proposition on the slightly flaky and mossy rock
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토요일 12번째 8월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Svenskeveggen | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Snickar glädje — 2 attempts | 15m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Just lovely. The boulder start looks tricky to protect, maybe a wire on a stick. When we got there a woman was trying and did it on top rope and was in raptures which was great to see which convinced us to try. Took a couple of goes to sort short person starting beta, then hung on all the way up the crack.
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6- | ★ Blåklokka | 14m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Not too bad despite the ledge. I climbed much higher than Dave did before moving to ledge trying to sort rope stuck in crack
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6 | ★ Frøken Sverige | 14m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Good sequences following Dave
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목요일 10번째 8월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren - 누구와 Luzia B. | 480m | |||||
Amazing route!
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수요일 9번째 8월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 |
★★★ Vestpillaren
- 누구와
Wille Cederberg
1
5+
45m
2
6-
40m
3
6
45m
4
5-
25m
5
4
30m
6
6-
45m
7
6
45m
8
5+
40m
9
6
45m
10
4+
30m
11
5
35m
12
3
55m
| 480m | |||||
일요일 6번째 8월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Sandvika Main Wall | |||||||
6a+ | Cobra | ||||||
6c | ★ Skrova festivalen | ||||||
5c | Crusaders of the Metal Blade | ||||||
수요일 2번째 8월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Sandvika Main Wall | |||||||
6c | ★★ Campingliv | ||||||
5b | ★ Turboelskeren | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Rage of Honor | ||||||
월요일 31번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Finnvika | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Svinluggen | 30m | |||||
6a | ★★★ Oves kvalbiff | 10m | |||||
6a+ | ★ Tante Bente | 10m | |||||
6a | Not Known | 10m | |||||
월요일 31번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy The Coast Time is a disaster | |||||||
7- A0 | FA ★ Joika Raiders - 누구와 Christoffer Martinsen | ★ 좋음 | |||||
일요일 30번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Main Cliff | |||||||
5+ | ★ Liten kuling | 20m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
5 | ★ Værvarsel | ★ 좋음 | |||||
5 | Heavy Weather | 평균 | |||||
일요일 30번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
4+ | ★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute | 110m | |||||
With Lenja end Benno. Ended in Rain:D
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일요일 30번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Vågarisset | |||||||
8- | ★★★ Lofoten reality - 누구와 Pat | 160m | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
Surprised by how good the other pitches were. One of Lofoten´s best. #4 handy for both roof pitches
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토요일 29번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Sandvika Main Wall | |||||||
6c | ★★ Campingliv | ||||||
5b ~5b+ | ★ Turboelskeren | ||||||
토요일 29번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6 쉬움 | ★★★ Gamle rev | 110m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
금요일 28번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Lys og Skygge | 60m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Appelcake Arete | 60m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
목요일 27번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Bare blåbær | |||||||
5- ~5- | ★★★ Bare Blåbær | 250m | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
P2 is more like 20m, so P1/P2 could be linked with a 50m rope.
B4, B5 & B6 are bolted.
It´s possible to climb right after P5 to the abseil line (1 bolt). Better don‘t rappel from the belay: there are most likely peoply below and apparently it´s common for the rope to get snagged on the flakes.
P6 is poorly protectable in the beginning, then ok. It‘s nice climbing.
P5 is absolutely amazing.
We didn‘t climb P7.
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수요일 26번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Pillaren (Point 713m) | |||||||
7- ~6- | ★★ The King Has Spoken - 누구와 Pat | 600m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Rockfax topo & description were good. Thought maybe bit nicer than Celebrian but definitely no classic. Perhaps something was lost in translation for German to Norwegian grades. Taking 3 full grades off each pitch seemed about right
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화요일 25번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Kallebukta Apa | |||||||
6- ~6 | ★★ Apa - 누구와 Ola | 15m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Good first jams on the top of boulder overlooking the beach. Flowy and hard, really glad to send it 7 years after I fist tried it. On send run i used two #4 and one #3.
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화요일 25번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Butter Arms | |||||||
5+ | Cant believe its not butter - 누구와 Francesco Mancino | 평균 | |||||
화요일 25번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær | |||||||
7+/8- | ★★★ La Vida Joika - 누구와 Pat | 100m, 10 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
First 2 pitches were great, it was nice saving #4s for second half of the OW. The bolted last pitch was a bit gross. Recommend skipping that & rapping from P2
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화요일 25번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
4+ | ★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute | 110m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
7- | ★★★ Tapir | 20m, 1 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
월요일 24번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Skiløperen - 누구와 Ola | 40m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Great combination of hand jams and jugs, whith just a little overhang to not make it too easy. Middle crack was a bit wet, but could be climbed anyways. Bring a lot of cams!
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월요일 24번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Lille Festvåg | |||||||
6- |
★★★ Gaukerisset
- 누구와
Ola
1
3+
20
2
6-
45
| 65m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Atletic and committing crux, then super long and pretty chill crack, with crazy exposure.
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월요일 24번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
일요일 23번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Main Cliff | |||||||
4+ | ★ Lett bris - 누구와 Ola | 평균 | |||||
일요일 23번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret — 2 attempts - 누구와 Ola | 20m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
My first "real" trad redpoint. I fell on the crux a couple of times, then used aid to set up a top-rope on the crux. Figured out the beta and sent on the first red-point go. Very tecnical route, super fun!
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일요일 23번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Main Cliff | |||||||
4+ | ★ Lett bris - 누구와 Francesco Mancino | ★ 좋음 | |||||
일요일 23번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Butter Arms | |||||||
5+ | Cant believe its not butter - 누구와 Ola | ★ 좋음 | |||||
A #5 cam would have been useful in the end. Fun route!
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일요일 23번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Living in Paradise | |||||||
5 | Crack glove ★★ Living in Paradise - 누구와 Ola | 20m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
5 | ★★ Living in Paradise - 누구와 Francesco Mancino | 20m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Rappelled in from the top on gear anchor, 40m rope.
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일요일 23번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Gandalf | 100m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Firts belay a bit earlier bc of the loose rock.
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토요일 22번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
4+ |
★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute
- 누구와
Ola
1
4
35m
2
4+
20m
3
4+
20m
led part of it.
4
4+
30m
| 110m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
A bit discontinuos, but fun and pretty.
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토요일 22번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Vågakallen | |||||||
4+ | ★★★ Nordryggen - 누구와 Ola | 510m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Ett riktigt alpint äventyr. 14tim bil till bil. Ledde alla 4or, som visade sig vara riktigt fina och krävande på olika vis. Fantastska utsikt, mycket exponering.
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토요일 22번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret | 20m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
토요일 22번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Living in Paradise | |||||||
5 | ★★ Living in Paradise | 20m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
금요일 21번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Storsvaet | |||||||
4 | ★ Storsvaet | 30m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
3+ | ★★ Too Wide for Paradise | 27m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
3+ | ★★ Back to Paradise | 27m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
목요일 20번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Maurpillaren | |||||||
6 |
★★★ Pizzatyven
- 누구와
Ola
1
5-
30m
2
5-
25m
3
6
12m
4
5
15m
5
5+
18m
| 100m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Very good route! The crack pitches felt hard for the grade, but the 6 crux pitch felt relatively easy... maybe spent too much time in the gym?
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목요일 20번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
5+ |
★★ Appelcake Arete
- 누구와
Ola
1
2
| 60m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Nice route! First pitch is a bit bold, second one pretty hard for the grade, but beatiful!
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목요일 20번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
5 ~5+ | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | |||||
Mit Lenja, wiederholt. Super performance von Lenja!
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5 ~5+ | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | |||||
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6 | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen | 95m | |||||
mit benno, vor der wanderung, 2. route am tag
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목요일 20번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita | |||||||
4+ | ★★ 1910 Ruta | 56m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
수요일 19번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6- |
★★★ Guns n' Roses
- 누구와
Ola
1
5
40m
2
6-
25m
3
6-
25m
| 90m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Beatuful! Every pitch had good and varied climbing, first pitch you have to commit but get rewarded!
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5 |
★★★ Gandalf
- 누구와
Ola
1
5
40
2
5-
35
3
5-
25
| 100m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Start trickier than expected. Eagles nest at midnight was magical!
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5 |
★★★ Gollum
- 누구와
Ola
1
5
2
5-
3
5-
| 110m | |||||
Comminting first crux, then easier. Nice crack in the middle.
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토요일 15번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren | 480m | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
With Benno, 10:15h, incredible midnightsun! 4h decent do the car
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금요일 14번째 7월 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Maurpillaren | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Pizzatyven | 100m | |||||
with Benno, first route
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