루트들 Oceania에서 선택된 등급들을 위해서

Takes the right-trending line via the odd pocket just left of 'Epsilon Crack'.

The imposing face across to the right from PP. Stand start with high crimp. Up to the two bad pinches, then punch up to the lip. Finish on good holds out left.

Upper Cave.

Links 'Fog' into 'Dead Heat'.

Extension to Kundalini. Adds another 7m of hard climbing on thin crimps and pockets and a final jump to the ledge.

a.k.a Enter the Dragon, a.k.a. Mortal Combat. This is the subtle groove about 6-8m R of Mr J's arête. "33/34" with tricky beta on both cruxes and lots of kneebar action, says Alex. Start at the DRB at the base of Venom. Trend L past FH, through desperately blank looking bulge, to follow the line of anti-holds up the attractive faint groove, joining Venom at the big break. Nalle reported "8B boulder section with very precise and shoulder intensive moves, bad feet and the two worst slopers I’ve ever seen on a route. This is followed by an easier but absolutely amazing scoopy section to a pretty ok rest. From there you set up for one of the craziest dynos I’ve ever done! If you stick the low percentage dyno, there’s still a sustained run-out section with long moves to the anchor".

A more direct line into When We Were Kings, starting further to the right.

Start off big flake, out to undercling and huge move to pocket. Finish as for When We Were Kings.

Listed as a project (#19) in the 2016 guide. Sit start on chossy looking jugs 2m right of Big Buck Hunter, up direct into the finish holds of When We Were Kings.

Old Klem Loskot project which was expected to be the hardest dyno in Australia; the FA went to Nalle Hukkataival and its status as hardest dyno may have been subsumed by a few hard problems Nalle put up in Buandik, 'Massive Dynamic' and 'Pigeon Superstition' at the Citadel.

A huge, technical dyno starting from a sit-start, then up to the big sloper and higher crimp - then the sharp lip jug. The hardest dyno in Australia?

Start on Strammamax and into Endamax. Traverse into and finish on Lost for Life

Very solid; as shown by Fred Nicole in the classic EOS2 video (or more recently by James Litz in Dosage 3).

Heads straight up just right of the start of Sultans of Swing. Pending details.

A big link up. Sit-start as for 'A horse is a horse', then traverse right all the way into the start of 'The Nevin Rule'. Finish up this problem. Route grade of 32.

The final chapter... Start as for 'Spanking the Monkeybars', reverse 'A Horse is a Horse', then finish as for 'The Weill of Fortune'. Route grade of 33.

Sit start on two edges under the rooflet. Reach out to slopers and crimps and make a press out left to the pocket. Big reaches back right gain the big high flake and finish as for The Nevin Rule.

Start on the large jug in the darkest depths of the cave - (the finish of X-Treme Cool) and head out to the jug at the start of Cave Man

Link 'Easy Does It' into 'Sleepy Hollow'

Takes an extreme line to the right of Cave Man, climbing into that problem's finish.

Just left of the right end of the boulder is a scaly purple streak. Climb dimples to the shallow pocket, from where you make a big move left, finishing up the scoop.

On the downhill side of the boulder, from far right traverse leftwards using the obvious sloping crack accross the overhanging wall and topout frighteningly at the tallest point of the face. Mega

Into the bush about 100m left of the Skittle boulder.

6 moves, SDS

Described in Rock Magazine #48 as incredibly thin and powerful.

roof, no top out

The contender for best in the cave? Climb as for 'Sloths in the attic' to the the big jug rail, from here traverse the lip back-towards 'Room with a better view" through some small edges and a tough cut. Top out as for "Room with a better view'

Sit start LH undercling in the middle of the hueco and RH sidepull. Do a few hard moves up and left to gain the ledge and topout. Bloody Classic. Cheers JH for the vision.

Start Warmup Warren and traverse right into Tiny Defence.

The first V12 in OZ! Very powerful.

Contact finishing up Savage

Paul's Present finishing up Exit Wounds.

mattias braach-maksvytis

Start on the shield, up to a crimp then massive dyno to the jug.

Desperate rounded sidepull climbing in the alley up the face.

Left of The Pincer Movement, follow chalked cobwebbed crack.

Elijah Mercado

Stand start in the break. Tough move through rounded pinch/layaway dish to slot then up slab. Given V10 by James.

Start & finish as for Grubby Paw but direct to hueco as for The Smiling Assassin.

Chris Beers Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Grubby paw direct but exiting via blue and green directly over. Just gave it a twelve based on grubby paw direct, most likely everything here could drop by one.

Stand start, up on slopey pockets to top. Very friction dependent.

Elijah Mercado Sam Healy

Start down in the little cave and power your way up through the crimps and pockets, heading left and linking into Little Spoon. (Open project with proposed grade of v11/12)

A very good piece of climbing. Apparently the trick is to control the swing.

Chris Webb Parsons

Travis B

Sit start on the scoop and move left using some crimps to gain the big rail before doing a huge span out left to join Odin's Raven.

Sit start on the jug under the rooflet and follow the arete all the way to the top of the block.

Might need a brush as it's getting mossy again.

Start matched on the 2 crimpy underclings, traverse right and do a big dynamic move to a good edge on the break. Finish matched on the big horn just behind the ledge.

Shared start with Obsession.

Keep traversing left on some small edges until you reach the flake, joining the crux of Moments Of The Past.

Liam Healy

Low start to Romper Stomper.

Sam Healy

Big first move to finish straight up the ramp.

Crazy roof right on the waters edge of the ocean. Sit start from two good crimps at the back of the cave, followed by 8 hard moves in a roof to a cool headwall and top out to the right.

First boulder of the grade sent by an Australian woman - Amy Fenton in 2017. Amy suggested a downgrade, saying "The consensus probably sits at a slash grade (V12/13) but I am definitely no authority. Before Deep Blue Sea my hardest tick was V10 so the idea of skipping two grades and going straight to V13 didn’t sit right with me."

Aurel Gelot | Travis Bettison | Mattias Braach-Maksvytis | Amy Fenton

Start as for nasty and go directly upwards finishing last moves as for RBTL.

Tom Farrell

Link 'Mushi Brain' into the last two moves of 'Abacus'

R. Hofmann

Start on the undercling just right of Sushi Train's start and power up using the obvious poor pinch.

Chris Webb Parsons

Travis B

Sam Healy

Starts as a sit/crouch start on the chalk at the far right of the crumbly cave and then up the “v3” and into the roof to finish on the last big jug (same finish as leviticus)

Start matched on the sidepull, make a hard move right into the start position of Bowels. Was thought to be the actual start of Bowels.

Same handholds as for Bowels of the Devil, but starting with a high right toehook. No dynamic movements or pads to cheat the start, just strict flexibility. Hard to grade.

Stretch finishing up For Sissies. No pads to cheat the start.

Start as for Silent Bob Low, and climb directly out via the micro crimp, skipping the wet rail from Silent Bob. Once on the soccer ball sloper after the lip go directly to the jug. The other holds further right on the ledge are out.

"Grimacing" into Agent Orange.

Sketchy all points off dyno up high.

Sit start as for Anger Management, following the right side of holds leading to a big move to a crimpy blob/shield like feature and then a good jug rest. Connect back into "Anger Management" following its sloppy crack line, turning about a meter before the crack opening. Then head directly out towards the front of the cave via a large jug and some sharp underlings. Top out as for "Anger Management".

Byron Glover

R. Hofmann

Start and climb as for Anger Management, exit as for Persistence. Spicy finish and hard for the grade.

R. Hofmann

Start as From Dust Till Dawn, head through Persistence and finish as per Anger Management. Another obvious fun enduro classic!!

R. Hofmann

Start as for 'From Dust Till Dawn, head back to the start of Anger Management and climb this all the way. Adds a fair bit more decent climbing.

R. Hofmann

Dishonour into Dust Management. 50 moves of hard v13.

Start as for "Persistence", following the right side of holds approximately 2 meters. Just after the deep two finger pocket climb towards the big Hueco on the lower right side of the cave. Climb the far right side of the cave to finish on the start rail of "Major Lightweight".

Byron Glover R. Hofmann

Short but desperately powerful climbing. Excellent. Originally climbed as Attack Mode to the fixed biner and given grade 32. Start at the huge handlebar jug right of the massive fallen boulder.

Climb original White Ladder then continue via one more boulder problem to the ledge.

Jake Bresnehan

Start Attack mode but go direct.

Makes Joe, Joe Dynamo (Lot 33) feel like a walk in the park. Consensus upgrade from V11.

This problem goes out the steepest part of the roof. Start matched low on the horizontal rail then out to the LH gaston and then up to the RH 3 finger pocket. A big throw to the LH undercling pocket then up some good holds to a powerful finish at the big hueco.

Slot currently broken. Much much harder now.

Extension of Cheese Gobbler that goes all the way to the top of the cliff via a whole bunch of hard independent climbing and then the top of The Big Cheese. Original vision by Robbie, new vision and execution by Tom.

A crazy extension to Metamorphosis climbing all the way to the top of the cliff. Endurance test piece.

Daniel

Start on the undercling and move up to the two crimps, then a long move to the first break. Go straight up from here to the next break it's Australia's first V11.

Start as for Jug to Jug to the LH slot but then head left across Turbo Guns via two difficult cross overs to finish left of that problem.

Start on the starting holds of Pearl Necklace but head left via shallow underclings and pockets to finish up Bumpy Boys.

Start and climb Ram Raid, continue up and and right via additional moves to join the scoop of Undertow/Tube surfing via a big huck, then continue up & TOP OUT. Can be finished standing in the scoop if so desired. Take caution if topping out. The FA cleaned and practiced this on a rope prior to sending.

Variation to Mr Pink.

Boulderyness to top of cliff, anchors over lip up high and left past the "lonely virgin" finger lock.

Start: double dyno off cool slopes on boulder wall.

The greatness of life is impossible to realise before you cast your eyes upon this, the route of all routes. At the time of completion it was the hardest route in the country and the hardest climbed by an Australian. Up Fantastic Mr Fox and without dangling about on the rest, bust up and into a thin crux until you reach Grey Area's rest, shake out here then finish up Grey Area and climb to the top of the cliff.

Australia's first 35 (albeit noting the question of how to grade Wheel of Life). An open project for over a decade. Alex took about 20 shots to send it, not long after he'd onsighted 9a at Siurana.

Ascents

• Alex Megos - 18 August 2013
• Wiz Fineron - 14 May 2019
• Ben Cossey

Rumour is it's pretty hard. Direct start to Mono No Aware. The first 35 to be sent by an Australian (albeit noting the question of how to grade Wheel of Life). Tom

Great fun. Climbs up to 1 move before Einfinger.... crux and busts out right to finish up old open projects.

Yet another impressive send by Alex, giving it hard 34. Shared start with Astral Traveller. Head up to small ledge and straight up with increasing difficulty.

Beta Vinyl into Tiger Cat. All the cruxes and no rest, outrageous! Grade unconfirmed.

Start 8m right of Beta Vinyl, 3m L of Tiger Snatch. Heads straight up, passing through the left end of the low horizontal break of Velvet project / Tiger Snatch. Then heads straight up to Sitting Bull's final break. Finish as for Sue's Last Ride.