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Zamarła Turnia 모든 고전등반 9 루트들 에서의 암장

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POL
V-V+VIVI.1VI.2VI.3VI.4VI.5

계절특성

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요약

Peak with outstanding south face. Altitude 2179m

설명

Compact south face hosts dozen of climbs and provides 4-7 pitches in slabs, corners and cracks. Many routes have bolted belays.

There are two prepared rap lines or you can walk off the peak via marked trail.

접근 문제들 Tatry Polskie으로부터 상속된

The whole area is a national park (Tatrzański Park Narodowy, TPN) and visiting it follows strict regulations. In particular

  • you are not supposed to leave marked trails with exempt for climbers
  • you are not supposed to stay in the mountains in dark (no bivouacking)
  • you have to pay the entrance fee to the TPN
  • you have to register your planned sport climbing and/or alpine climbing activity at: https://wspinanie.tpn.pl/
  • climbing (both alpine and sport) is allowed only in selected areas
  • additional restrictions on the time and place of climbing may be introduced by the TPN

Detailed regulations for climbing are published at TPN website

접근

Around 2 hours from Schronisko Pięć Stawów, or 5 hours from parking at Palenica.

윤리문제 Tatry Polskie으로부터 상속된

Usual ethic of alpine climbing and mountaineering.

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루트들

루트 추가 그림안내지도 추가 재 주문 대용량 편집 변환된 등급
등급 루트
1
{UIAA} 8 Mu-mu-mu 혼합 고전등반 160m, 25
1 4 25m
2 8 35m
3 7 40m
4 7- 20m
5 7- 35m

topo

FA: Paweł Federak & Maciej Tertelis, 1998

2
{UIAA} 5 ★★ Lewi Wrześniacy 혼합 고전등반 160m, 4, 3

Nice easier route with pitons and good gear placement. The route follows obvious corner in the left part of the south face.

FA: C.Wrześniak & S.Wrześniak, 1939

3
{UIAA} 5 ★★★ Festival granitu 전통등반 170m, 5

The route follows crack/corner system on right side of the big corner until it reaches obvious horizontal crack. It traverses the crack in one pitch (40m) and continues up following corners and chimneys. Very exposed and nice climb. Occasional pitons in the route.

Pitches: 4, 3, 4, 5, 4

4
{UIAA} 6+ ★★★ Prawi Wrześniacy 혼합 고전등반 170m, 5, 8

The initial pitch is a bit shattered, but the route becomes quickly and outstanding climb following an obvious crack in the main slab and later graduating in very exposed tiny crack systems. Pitons in the route. Belays chain-bolted, the route can be rappelled.

Pitches: 3, 6-, 5-, 5+, 6+

FA: C.Wrześniak & S.Wrześniak, 1939

5
{UIAA} 7+ Veni 혼합 고전등반 180m, 5, 21
1 6+ 40m
2 7+ 35m
3 7+ 40m
4 5+ 30m
5 5+ 35m

Topo at drytooling.com.pl

FA: K. Kluba & M. Tertelis, 15 7월

6
{UIAA} 7- Prawy Heinrich 혼합 고전등반 170m, 6, 10

Pitches: 4, 5+, 7-, 7-, 4, 3

7
{UIAA} 6+ Jargiłło-Paćkowski 혼합 고전등반 170m, 5, 5

It is a 2-pitch variant to Motyka route that continues straight up the main corner.

FA: Marian Jargiłło & Piotr Paćkowski, 1978

8
{UIAA} 9+ Pasieka 혼합 고전등반 130m, 4, 25
1 7+ 40m
2 9+ 35m
3 9 18m
4 2+ 40m

topo & info

FA: M. Brożyna & G. Grochal, 12 9월 2018

9
{UIAA} 5 ★★★ Droga Motyki 혼합 고전등반 160m, 6, 7

Pitches: 4, 5, 5, 4, 5, 4

Magnificent climb in perfect rock. Starting with a crack in an obvious corner, then through structured slabs to another corner. Belays bolted, some pitons in the pitches.

FA: R. Glatz, V. Hudyma, Stanisław Motyka & S. Zamkovsky, 1935

알고 계십니까?

귀하가 등반한 등정들의 기록, 추적 그리고 공유할 수 있는 계정을 만들 수 있다는 것을 알고 계십니까? 수천명의 등반가들이 이미 이런 일들을 하고 있습니다.

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부근의 상징들

5 ★★★ Droga Motyki
6+ ★★★ Prawi Wrześniacy

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