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You can approach Pitufo either from the new path, which leaves the carpark from higher up (further from highway), or from the zuccini side.
New path approach: To get there from the new path, take the path and take the leftward branch to the lockdown area. Pitufo is really a continuation of ridge that creates lockdown, but Pitufo is higher up and the routes are on the other side of the ridge. From lockdown, you therefore need to move uphill, on either side of the lockdown buttress, but end up on the North-West side of the cliff. Some bundu bashing may be required.
From Zuccini:Cross the valley towards lockdown, but walk to the right of it, at a higher altitude. Continue over the ridge in the natural saddle between lockdown and the group of rocks above, until you are entering the next valley. Walk around the back and rightwards to gain Pitufo.
Note: The old description for this area and the topo were wrong, both describing what is now called the lockdown area. The description was confusing, stating that the crag is "opposite zucini". This is not quite right as until recently there were no routes on the rocks on the other side of the valley of zuccini. You cannot see Pitufo from Zuccini and Vica-Versa. Instead, to get to Pitufo, you must cross the valley to the other side, but then continue onwards and slightly down into the next valley.
The face of the crag has the same orientation as zuccini wall- when you are climbing it your back faces north west and your nose points south/south east. The main areas (zuccini, arete and runaway) are south/south-east of pitufo area.
Originally bolted/climbed by M Rutschlin and J Terblance, with 2 new routes added around 2020 by E Pietersen.
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