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The Utopia Area

  • 등급표기: SA
  • 등정들 16

계절특성

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접근 문제들 Monteseel으로부터 상속된

No form of booking, notification or registration is required to climb at Monteseel. Although the public currently has right of access to these crags, the usual norms of civilised behaviour obviously still apply.

윤리문제 Monteseel으로부터 상속된

Climbing is allowed as long as no plants are damaged. No bolting is allowed. Most pegs have been cut. No damaging the rock in anyway. There are people living below so no throwing things off the cliff. There are also people living above the cliff so be respectful.

루트들

루트 추가 그림안내지도 추가 재 주문 대용량 편집 변환된 등급
등급 루트

FA: Ian Manson & Craig Attwell, 1982

FA: Rich Smithers & Adolf Flockemann, 1976

1 11
2 18

FA: Roger Fuggle & Tony Dick, 1970

FA: Tony Dick & Roger Fuggle, 1973

1 11
2 19

FA: Tony Dick & Roger Fuggle, 1973

1 13
2 11
3 14
  1. Fun first pitch straight up to under the huge roof. Nice jugs, good gear and exposure... Just a fun climb. The finish of the first pitch is located under the roof in a right angle corner with good gear and a solid ledge.

  2. The second pitch is a traverse out right with HUGE exposure. This is a rather long pitch which bends around a corner making communication difficult. There is relatively good gear but what makes the pitch hard is the exposure. If the wind is strong you might battle with balance. This pitch can be done in two if you stop right before climber and belayer loose sight of each other in a small cave. This is not recommended but is always an option. The second pitch is supposed to end on a rather big ledge with a small tree growing out of it. There is plenty of space to sit and rest before finishing the climb. There is a great view from here.

  3. The last pitch heads straight up to the top and can also be done in two pitches however that shouldn't be needed to be done. You should come out under some trees but don't stress too much if you are slightly off route.

It is recommended that you take someone who has climbed this before as it is extremely difficult to locate both the decent anchors as well as the start of the climb.

FA: Brian Shuttleworth & Colin Shuttleworth, 1970

FA: Charl Brummer, 1979

1 15
2 A2
3 13

FA: Mike Roberts, Roy Gooden & Rodney Owen, 1976

FA: Brian Shuttleworth, Carless Freer & Tony Conning, 1978

FA: Andrew Russel-Boulton, 1992

FA: Colin Shuttleworth & Bobby Dickman, 1970

FA: Mike Roberts & Ian Wallace, 1979

FA: Andrew Russel-Boulton & Grant Cockburn, 1988

FA: Mick Hafner & Alan Manson, 1983

FA: Michael Cartwright, 1991

알고 계십니까?

귀하가 등반한 등정들의 기록, 추적 그리고 공유할 수 있는 계정을 만들 수 있다는 것을 알고 계십니까? 수천명의 등반가들이 이미 이런 일들을 하고 있습니다.

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수요일 19 4월
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