도움

Contrafort de Rumbau 🚫

이지역에서의 등반은 폐쇄되었음

Rock: Closed due to fire

The crag is currently closed due to a heavy fire on 2022-06-19.

For more details see https://www.instagram.com/p/CfFG5jqjmSX/

See warning details and discuss

개발된 수개월 전

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설명

The main and mega cliff of the area, an awesomely steep barrel-shaped wall.Winter crag as it is sunny from the morning until almost the end of the day.

접근

First one need to arrive in a hotel called Hotel Restaurant Can Boix De Peramola. Just before the entrance of the hotel, there is a dirty road on the right. Take this road for a bit more of 1km and you will see a small path to go up to the crag on your left. You can also see the crag on your left.The access by walk is 5 min.

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루트 추가 그림안내지도 추가 재 주문 대용량 편집 변환된 등급
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L1: 6c, L2: 6a+

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Set: Dani Andrada

FFA: Domen Škofic, 2 1월 2015

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FA: Adam Ondra, 10 2월 2017

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1 7c
2 8b+
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Monique Forestier's 2016 ascent of this route was the first Australian female ascent of a grade 8c+/34.

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La Dura Dura means 'The Hard Hard', named as such because it was then regarded as one of the hardest rock climb in the world by non other that Chris Sharma .

Chris tried the routes for years, describing it as "horrifyingly" difficult and perhaps "not for me", until he invited Adam to try. They figured new beta together and the route was finally freed by Adam Ondra in February 2013, the second 9b+ at the time (after Change 9b+ in Flatanger, also freed by Ondra)

Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra regard it as being slightly harder than Change. No other climber has managed to repeat it yet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k

Ascents
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  • Adam Ondra - 7 Feb 2013
  • Chris Sharma - 23 March 2013

FA: Adam Ondra

Set: Chris Sharma, 2009

FFA: Adam Ondra, 2013

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Set: Dani Andrada

FA: Ramon Julian, 2010

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Different start than Chaxi Raxi.

FFA: Chris Sharma, 2011

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Set: Chris Sharma

FFA: Adam Ondra, 2011

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Monique Forestier's 2012 ascent of this route was the first Australian female ascent of a grade 8c/33.

Set: Chris Sharma, 2009

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FFA: Sam Elias, 3월 2014

Set: Sam Elias & Walker Emerson, 3월 2014

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To the first anchors

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Pitch one of La Marroncita

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7a first pitch, 8b second.

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Joe Blau into Marroncita Extension

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A connection of "Joe Blau" and "Papichulo".

FA: Patxi Usobiaga, 3월 2017

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A resistance 50m route with limited rests, perfect rock and a sketchy slab finish.

Ascents

  • Chris Sharma - 31 May 2008
  • Adam Ondra - 24 Feb 2009
  • Ramón Julián Puigblanque
  • Sachi Amma
  • Cédric Lachat
  • Jakob Schubert
  • Domen Škofic
  • Magnus Midtbø
  • Mateusz Haladaj
  • Jonathan Siegrist
  • Daniel Woods
  • Matty Hong
  • Piotr Schab
  • Said Belhaj
  • Klemen Bečan
  • Patxi Usobiaga
  • Jon Cardwell
  • Felipe Camargo
  • Margo Hayes - 21 Mar 2019 - First Female ascent

FFA: Chris Sharma

Set: Chris Sharma

FA: Chris Sharma, 2008

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This route connects Pachamama 9a+ and Papichulo 9a+ and was described by Adam Ondra as demanding "incredible power endurance without any rest."

Initially this connection seemed utterly extreme - perhaps even 9b+ like neighbouring Dura Dura freed by Ondra in 2013 - but was then rendered more "humane" when Ondra discovered a new sequence to get across the traverse. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVlGxVE_0uc

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  • Adam Ondra - 8 Feb 2017
  • Seb Bouin - 16 April 2019

FA: Adam Ondra, 8 2월 2017

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Set: Chris Sharma

FA: Chris Sharma, 2009

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Set: Joe Kinder

FA: Klemen Bečan, 1 3월 2016

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The route has a first part made of 25 very sustained movements graded 9a+, followed by a second 8c part with 12 movements including a dyno.

A knee bar has been found in the first crux (the sequence was downgraded from 8a to 7c+), however a hold has broken higher up on the dyno which makes it significantly harder to throw. All in all the route is still considered 9b

Ascents

  • Chris Scharma - 7 May 2011
  • Adam Ondra
  • Jakob Schubert
  • Sachi Amma
  • Piotr Schab

FA: Chris Sharma

FFA: Chris Sharma, 2011

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Set: Chris Sharma

FA: Chris Sharma, 2010

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Pete O'Donovan and Dani Andrada

일자: 2019

ISBN: 9780956700650

Lleida Climbs stellt 22 Gebiete in einer der besten Kletterregionen Europas vor - insgesamt ca. 3900 Wege - ein Kletterparadis!

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