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Welcome to www.thecrag.com, a project to collect and distribute climbing information to the climbing community. The site was founded in 1999 by Simon Dale and Campbell Gome, two Australian climbers. In 2010 Brendan Heywood joined the team bringing new skills, ideas and energy. We are currently implementing a major redesign. Use the links on the left and in the table below to explore and add to the index. The more you and your friends use and contribute to the site, the better it becomes for all climbers.

5a Groosi Ohre
Australia

I love a sunburnt country, A land of sweeping plains,

Of ragged mountain ranges, Of droughts and flooding rains.

I love her far horizons, I love her jewel-sea,

Her beauty and her terror – The wide brown land for me!

Victoria
North West

Mt Cole

Arapiles

The most loved and known, easily accessible quality crag in the land.

Australia Victoria North West Arapiles
Bushranger Bluff

The big cave right of Ghost of Melville Is the Nick Cave

Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff
Main Wall

Main Wall is the first wall you reach as you come in on the walking track.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Bushranger Bluff Area

Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall
3 Bullet Buttress

Pleasant.

Start: Start 20m L of Melville's Cave.

9 Holdup Line

Very nice.

Start: Start just R of BB.

14 Holdup Line Direct Finish

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

11 Stage Coach

Up via the offwidth slot then finish as for LB.

Start: Start just R of HL.

11 Working Class Hero

Short chimney then finish as for SC.

Start: Start just R of SC.

10 Long Bow

The groove with snap-o-licious flakes and a tricky finish.

Start: Start 1m R of WCH.

11 Ckup

Line immediately right of Long Bow.

17 Kerfuffle

Start at crack two metres left of Ckinell but climb up grey slab on left to an easy stance directly below large thread through. Straight up to middle of the two steep roofs. There's an under cling with a rattling tooth like block that is not going anywhere. Tricky gear and pumpy to place but regular gear can be found. Once over the roof same line as Fracas to the top or ledge to rap anchors right.

16 Fracas

Start at crack line 2 metres left of Ckinell, up crack, route gradually veering left into second crack line, then through large guano filled pocket and jug hall through the easier section of roof above pocket. Easy climbing to top or ledge to rap anchors right.

18 Lost Gold

The overhung arete 1.5m left of Ckinell. Limited gear at roof and pumpy to place.

14 Ckinell

The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start.

Start: Just L of Melville's Cave.

12 Ckinothe

Long traverse.

Start: Start as for 'Ckinell'.

25 Repo Man

Out through big roof in the main cave.

Start: Start beneath L side of Melville's Cave.

26 Climber-Model Denialists

Mosey up to the cave via the L crack, launch out onto 'Repo Man''s lip jugs, then veer R and up on good but spaced holds past 2 FH's into the finish of 'Cricket Bats In A Box'

22 Cricket Bats in a Box

Poor pro. The R side of the cave to a sickle flake, then L.

Start: Start below the R side of Melville's Cave.

9 Cave Climb

Step R from cave to ledge. Then up corner or nose, both with poor pro.

Start: Start as for CBiaB.

12 Horse Drawn

Wall and overhang.

Start: Start 5m R of Melville's Cave.

13 Sexless Sue

Chossy crack then overhang.

Start: Start 10m R of Melville's Cave.

13 Sue's Crutchless Knickers

Cracks, then finish up gully or up crack on L.

Start: Start 8m R of SS.

7 Little Revolver Crack

Discontinuous cracks.

Start: Start just L of RC.

6 Revolver Crack

The deep crack.

Start: Start 20m R of Melville's Cave.

14 to 15 Hangman

As for RC then head R up thin crack. Good rock, exciting finish.

Start: Start as for RC.

15 The Ghost of Melville

-ATTENTION: There is an active Bee hive on the route, take care- The major corner, facing the second cave.

Start: Start 3m R of RC.

12 Big Dog's Cock

Presumably this climbs just R of the corner taken by TGoM...but the write-up doesn't say.

Start: Start R of 'Hangman'.

22 Red right hand

Up in the Nick Cave, the roof climb with one bolt A full inversion is needed for this roof

22 15 Feet Of Pure Steep, Bro

Fun roof climbing to a sling anchor/lower off

10 Six Wet Troopers

The least mossy line.

Start: Start about 3m right of BDC.

Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff
Back Wall

From Main Wall follow the track around to the right.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Bushranger Bluff Area

Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Back Wall
3 Trooper

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

7 Trooper One

Crack to break, then go 2m R and up crack.

Start: The smooth grey wall just L of the walk-down gully, start 1m L of small cave.

13 Trooper Two

Start just right of the cave, heading up until level with the top of it, then head diagonally up left until above the centre of the cave and continue straight up from there.

6 Trooper Three

The crack with a hard start.

Start: Start on the R side of the grey wall.

2 Cartridge Arete

Jugs.

Start: Start at the arete R of the walk-down gully.

6 Cartridge Wall

wall between Cartridge Arete and Cartridge Chimney

6 Cartridge Chimney

The chimney.

Start: Start just R of CA.

7 Dead Ned

A nice little line. Start up the left edge of the orange wall, then step right and proceed up the weakness on good holds

14 Kelly Watch the Stars

The fun starting move up to the vertical finger slot directly up the wall between the grooves of Dead Ned and OC. Well protected.

15 Orange Crush

The crack.

Start: Start 3.5m R of CC.

6 Cobb & Co

The steep orange corner facing L.

Start: Start 0.5m R of OC.

10 Tullah's Pleased

Start 3m left of Tullah's Tease and up the bouldery start. Straight up through the middle of the orange face on ripper incut jugs. Stay in the middle of the face the whole way up. Protection is great all the way.

7 Tullah's Tease

Layback for 5m then step R into crack.

Start: Start 5m R of C&C.

16 Rubbery Under Arms

Up the pockets through the overhanging wall, about 4m right of 'Tullah's Tease', then continue easily up the line above.

Australia Victoria North West Arapiles
Declaration Crag Area

The prominent outcrop by the side of the road about 600m south of the camping ground.

A good area for beginners.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Declaration Crag Area

Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Declaration Crag Area
Declaration Crag

One of the most convenient crags in the country, being about 15m from the road.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Declaration Crag Area

Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag
16 Pot Boiler

Start 8m left of 'The Ferrets Are Coming', below a rock step. R up vague ramp then up.

17 Tonic (original)

As per the description for Tonic but see different line on topo - I did this with Lou Shepherd 30 yrs ago and that was the line then.

17 Tonic

Start: As for 'Pot Boiler' to horizontal break then right and up.

21 R The Ferrets Are Coming

Harder than it looks and fiddly to protect. Once graded 17! 21 for tall people and/or topropers. Line 7m left of 'Craddock Crack'. .

9 Craddock Crack

The left-most deep crack on the roadside face.

18 Raiders of the Lost Crack

Start 1m right of 'Craddock Crack'. Up 3m, left across 'Craddock Crack'. to freaky block on arete, then up crack 3m left of arete.

10 Kristies Finger

Think this is the front of the little buttress immediately right of 'Craddock Crack', starting as for 'Raiders of The Lost Crack'.

2 Sunny Gully

Hard start, then easy

8 Marshmallow Sea DS

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

7 Marshmallow Sea

Start as for 'Deck Gully'. Move L to the sparsely protected smooth wall facing the road. The undercut direct start is a bit harder.

2 Deck Gully

The rightmost deep gully facing the road.

20 Brit Milah

High traverse that circumscribes the wall above Deck Games. The original purpose of the 'mystery' bolt. Start at top of 'Deck Gully' at the obvious traverse line. There is gear that protects the step out to clip the bolt. Scamper along the traverse line clipping a bolt on 'All Decked Out' you get to the front of the block. Up and belay.

27 All Decked Out

Up nice little face, trending left past 2 FH, from start of 'Deck Games'.

25 Deck Games

Very appealing rock.

Start: Start under the nice bulgy orange buttress closest to the road.

26 New Wave Winos

Start as for Saggitarian, head left under bulge and dyno up left through it past a carrot bolt hammered into a break like a piton. Yes, you read that correctly, and that's why I've attributed the route to Mike Law as surely noone else would have thought this was a great idea. I just TR'd it.

24 Scorpio

Left-hand finish to Sagittarian (Grade could be suspect )

23 Sagittarian

Steep crack 6m left of 'Sickle' to break, then move R and up past a bolt, onto easier ground.

21 Sagittarian Variant Start

Start as for Slip Knot and head up left to the bolt on Sagittarian. Easier and better than the original.

22 New Wave Wanks

Start up 'Slip Knot', then left across 'Sagittarian' to the arete, and a hard move up R to jugs.

19 R Slip Knot

Start 1m right of 'Sagittarian' and up poorly protected wall just right of the bolts.

7 Taya

Good beginner's lead. Start just left of the plaque and right of the small overhang. Climb the wall between 'Hammer' and 'Slip Knot'.

4 Hammer

Great beginner's route. Start as for 'Sickle' and go up this a little way then step left to short ramp then up shallow corner.

9 Sickle

Obvious wide crack on north-west side of Dec Crag, left of the smooth wall. You can't get lost.

16 R Marmot's Mall

The nice face between 'Sickle' and 'Little Thor' gets classed as "serious" as it has seen plenty of groundfalls and a death. However, the pro is fine if you know how to put it in. Treat it as an exercise to see how much you can place.

Start 3m L of 'Little Thor', immediately right of 'Sickle'. The nice glassy face with small cracks for wires and hardest moves at top. Note the arete just to the R has been done at 18.

20 R Little Thor

The lovely right-facing flake corner bordering the left side of the great blankish north-west wall. It's a pity that it gets heavily top-roped. Climb the right-facing flake/corner with hard moves past the little roof then keep cranking up slightly left to the top. Gear has a habit of unzipping on people; consider placing a directional at the start and being generous with the draws.

23 Little Thor Direct Finish

After the crux on 'Little Thor', continue straight up instead of scuttling off left. Take a bolt bracket.

29 Steps Ahead

Sustained crimpiness. Fixed hangers up beautiful wall 3m R of 'Little Thor'.

26 Hit the Deck

As for 'Look Sharp' to first bolt, then move left and up the wall past more bolts.

24 Look Sharp

Up weakness 8m right of 'Steps Ahead' to first bolt. Go slightly right to second bolt and hard moves lead to pin. Finish up right.

22 A New Toy

Bouldery crux. Up crack 2m left of 'Problematic' to bulge and bolt. Onwards.

24 Remembrance Day

From the finish of 'Problematic', traverse L across the top of the wall with a piton, 2 BRs (take brackets), and a slung knob for pro.

Start: Start as for P.

22 Problematic

The short bulging crack on the right-hand side of the north-west-facing sheer orange wall.

17 Hog Jowls

Start left of 'The Pleb'. Up to ledge, traverse L to corner.

13 Sir George

Start left of 'The Pleb'. Nice crack to ledge then bulge.

5 The Pleb

The chimney on the south-west side of the outcrop.

Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Declaration Crag Area
Brain Death Boulder

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Declaration Crag Area

Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder
V0 V0 problem on left

Sit start

V1 V1 Problem (a)

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

V3 Traverse

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

V4 V4 Problem

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

V3 V3 pocket problem

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

V1 V1 Problem (b)

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

V0 V0 Juggy Arete

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

V0- V0 Problem

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

23 Brain Death

Follow the wide crack the whole way up.

V3 Brain Death - Piker's Variant

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

V3 L

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

V2 S

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

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