Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Popularidade | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall | |||||
26 | ★★ Climber-Model Denialists
Mosey up to the cave via the L crack, launch out onto the lip jugs of 'Repo Man', then veer R and up on good but spaced holds past two FH's into the finish of 'Cricket Bats In A Box'. FA: Douglas Hockly, 2017 | 20m, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Fechado Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag | |||||
27 | ★ All Decked Out
This is the 2 FHs up the nice little face trending L from 'Deck Games'. Start: As for 'Deck Games'. FA: Gordon Poultney, 2000 | 12m, 2 | |||
26 | New Wave Winos
Start as for Saggitarian, head left under bulge and dyno up left through it past a carrot bolt hammered into a break like a piton. Yes, you read that correctly, and that's why I've attributed the route to Mike Law as surely noone else would have thought this was a great idea. I just TR'd it. FA: Mike Law, 1983 | 15m | |||
26 | ★★ Hit the Deck
Originally climbed by Claw with a rest and named "Wild Drugs and Crazy Sex". As for 'Look Sharp' to first bolt, then move left and up the wall past more bolts. FA: Mike Law FFA: Roland Foster, Philby & Eric Eastern Brown, 1984 | 18m, 4 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall | |||||
26 | ★★ Letting Go
The others noodled around for a few days cleaning up the easy stuff, then Moorhead produced this! Sustained, with a strenuous bouldery crux. In fact, two bouldery strenuous cruxes. Start at short black flake 10m R of 'Hyperspace'. Flake to grey coloured RB, L to pockets (#4 friend), then R up flake to tough finish. FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981 | 15m, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | |||||
26 | Fitzroy Street
Wall 5 metres left of 'Crucifixion'. Hopelessly contrived. You can sort of make an OK 21 out of it by zigzagging left and right. FA: Martin Grullich, 1986 | 12m, 4 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully | |||||
26 | ★ Motivated by Food
The seam. Start: Start just R of 'Hunger'. FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1989 | 25m, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork | |||||
27 | ★ Spinning Around the Drain
Old James Falla project with a bolt or maybe two? Don't know if it's been ticked but it's about 27. | ||||
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall | |||||
26 | ★★ Sustained Metaphor
A classic piece of Mike Law funkness. Start left of 'Skydiver' beneath the bolt and try your best to get off the ground and reach the sanctuary of the seam above (crux). Once into the seam, continue up the obvious line (grade 23 this section) via technical face climbing and more bolts. Pull through the top bulge on slopers and finish easily. FA: Mike Law, 1982 | 25m, 4 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress | |||||
26 | ★ Cry Baby
Up face via three bolts to anchor crux passing second bolt FA: Muki Woods, 2006 | 10m, 3 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | |||||
26 R | ★ Magenweh
As for Heimweh, then veer L where Heimweh goes R into DaC. up past a few intermittent seams, then R into DaC up high. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 30 Jan 2022 | 15m, 2 | |||
26 R | ★ Heimweh
Start as for Debutantes. Runout up L and traverse back R on layaways in horizontal weakness to join DaC. Finish up this. FA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1985 | 15m, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae The Flight Deck | |||||
27 | ★★ Have a Good Flight Direct Start
Start as for Jetlag, 2m Left of the original but finish up HaGF instead. Still great climbing even though the Jetlag finish has been added. FA: Kim Carigan, 1984 | 20m | |||
27 | ★ Detestes
Start between 'Orestes' & 'Plimsoll Line'. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986 | 15m, 6 | |||
26 R | ★ Celine and Julie Go Bolting
There is good small gear and a peg at the start of Plimsoll to get going. Traverses right past a bolt to a rest then up past a second to a runout section. Airy. FA: Louise & Lincoln Shepherd, 1984 | 15m, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area | |||||
26 | Raven
Start between NPS and CitS at the base of the V-slot the trail goes up. No bridging onto the opposite wall! Bad old FH, and then the crack. You can add to the fun by finishing up Crows in the Snow. FA: George Fieg & Dave Gray, 1992 | 12m, 1 | |||
27 | Love That Pain
Start around R from T. Rightwards crack to rest, L into hanging groove (BR), orange wall then L arete. FA: Kim Carrigan & Steve Monks, 1985 | 40m, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Steel Delinquency Pinnacle | |||||
27 | ★ Down To Zero
Short flake, then up wall past 2 RB and small gear to DRB. Start: Start on ledge 5m around R of MS. FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981 | 10m, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle | |||||
26 | Iron Void Variant
A completely separate route despite the name! Start right of Iron Void and up. FA: Steve Monks | 15m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | |||||
27 | ★★ Les Memoires d'un Ane
Thin and glassy. Start 2 metres right of 'The Philosopher' Climb past 2 bolts to join 'The Philosopher'. At first horizontal traverse right to flake (FH) then up to anchor. FA: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984 | 18m, 3 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area | |||||
26 | ★★ So you think you can jamb
Just left of the wide left facing crack, Diet of Worms. Stick clip first bolt. Wide flaring crack (crux) then hand jam to sharp holds that lead slightly left and up, small wires available if needed. Take some slings for the bollards to the top. FA: Muki Woods, Ingvar Lidman & Lachlan Hick FA: muki woods & Hanz Fritzle, 2008 | 20m, 4 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||
26 | Schnell
The short wall with a RB. Start: Start just R of TJ. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 10m, 1 | |||
26 R | ★ Fully Loaded
A direct finish to 'Die Loaded' which is a tad serious to lead due to the runout above the top of the initial crack. Technically 25 according to the FA, however 26 based on seriousness is a more apt grade. Start as for Die Loaded. Climb Die Loaded to the top of the pod, then against your better judgement crimp your way directly towards the hanging seam. Finish straight up the obvious corner. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2007 | 28m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face | |||||
26 | ★ Dogbolter
Up past a bolt. Start: Start just R of CC. FA: Steve Monks, 1986 | 10m, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Deep Freeze Wall | |||||
27 | Chill Pill
Face R of Handshake. At the second bolt (hard to clip) move L and into Handshake. The direct finish is an open project - maybe 30ish? FA: Gordon Poultney, 2011 | 15m, 4 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||
26 | Purgatory
Not very popular, but if you must do it approach by moving left from Megalomaniac next to the cliff. Do not bash in direct from the Central Gully track as this can create erosion. Start below the sickle/crack of EA. Up past BR, take the bulge on the R, then more easily. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985 | 25m | |||
26 | Polygap
As for M then left past two BR - middle contrived - continue to clip one more BR. FA: FRA Hoskins & Frost, 1994 | 36m, 3 | |||
26 | The Best of Hollywood
Arete left of Mari. Clip bolt from Mari then return to ledge to reach holds. FA: Kim Carrigan & Geoff Weigand, 1984 | 20m | |||
26 | King of the Jungle
"Climb the tree, and lean over to place a #3RP. Reverse to the ground and climb the arete". The tree is long gone so you'll need to preplace the RP by other means. Start at the arete just R of D. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 10m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | |||||
26 | ★ Clap Hands
Crank up the line past FH to pedestal then roof, then L into shallow groove. Start 1.5m R of C. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982 | 15m, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | |||||
26 | ★ Fists of Fury
Bouldery, intense climbing on underclings left of Exodus II. Start on left side of wall beneath right-trending crack weakness, or alternatively 1m right of this. Boulder up to fixed wire in roof, surmount hanging 'slab' and undercling rightwards into easier territory. Basically a 10 move boulder problem. Bring your biceps. FA: Mark Moorhead, 1982 | 20m | |||
26 | ★★ Exodus lI
Well chalked line left of Copyright. Climbs like an overhung limestone power route. Boulder into the line and onwards via obvious double-undercling crux (and bolt) to a horizontal break on the left. Take a breath, then easier face climbing to the top. FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982 | 20m, 1 | |||
27 | ★★★ Exodus 2.5
At the top of the crux of Exodus II, break right to a 2nd bolt, then up and right to a 3rd bolt (past undercling pocket). Upon reaching the edge of the crack weakness (Copyright), cut back left via yet another boulder problem up the unlikely headwall. Sustained power. FA: Dave Jones | 20m, 4 | |||
26 | ★★ Mass Exodus
Exodus 2.5 with the obvious finish - up Copyright. A brilliant undertaking in its own right, but lacking the contrived headwall finish of the original. | 20m | |||
26 | ★★ Copyright Direct
Takes the line immediately right of Exodus II and left of Copyright. Boulder start to underclings (common theme here), then left to gain base of thin crack, and up. A more sustained version of Exodus II. FA: Chris Shepherd, 1983 | 20m | |||
26 | ★ Blast Off
Starts 5m right of Slip Slop Slap. Stick clip 1st rusty bolt (place back up wire just above it) then boulder strenuously up through initial bulge onto face. Try not to look at the state of the 2nd bolt as you make reachy moves past it. Gain lip of roof and stretch out right into cleaner rock. Ignore the old fixed RP. Belay possible on block above. FA: Wayne & Gavin Jensen, 1990 | 16m, 2 | |||
26 | Pull My Strings
Start 7m R of W. Stick clip the bolt then up the wall. FA: James Falla & Paul Hoskins, 1988 | 10m, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully The Torture Chamber | |||||
V6 | ★ 1) two small edges
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{US} V6 | ★ 6) big dyno
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Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress | |||||
26 | Grimstone
Climb Reaper to the prominent chalked jug in the middle of the diagonal on pitch 2. Step right and ooze up the unlikely seam past a FH to gain the upper traverse on Taste Sensation. Step right again and climb the excellent face above passing a second FH, and staying R of the last FH of Taste Sensation. Rejoin Taste Sensation at its final crack, to chains (33m). FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008 | 35m | |||
26 | ★★★ Incest Sensation Direct
Best of the lot - cheekily described as the Serpentine of Arapiles which is a bit of a stretch but it does have a lot of climbing on it. Incest into Taste Sensation Direct. 70m rope gets you to the boulder beneath Reaper. | 40m, 5 | |||
26 | ★ Sisterly and Christally
Up Incest to the pair of bolts, then directly upwards past a bolt and peg to roof (shared with Wild Reaper Connection to the left). Step right and pull through bulge. Easier climbing leads to the top. FA: Chris Shepherd, 1991 | 40m, 4 | |||
26 | ★★ The Perfect Match
Back wall. A mini Slopin' Sleazin'? Unconventional moves up an interesting feature left of Jilted. Start as for that route to its first BR, then head straight up to 2nd BR and span left to the base of unlikely arete/groove feature. Climb this to good pocket (BR), then continue past undercling to top. FA: Steve Kelly, 2008 | 10m, 3 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress | |||||
27 R | ★★ Ride Like the Wind Direct Finish
As for RLTW, but when you hit the top break, gear up for a final boulder problem! Heartbreaking, mainly because if you fall off the hard finish (well protected), you have to go back down and re-climb the the real business! Established at grade 27 - you might wonder why it was ever downgraded. Start: As for RLTW. FA: Gordon Poulteney, 1992 | 30m, 3 | |||
26 X | ★★★ Redrum
Start as for Windsong but continue straight up instead of traversing right. Exit the Crux bulge above with small RP's for protection ( difficult to place on lead). The route then rejoins Windsong. Finish as for Breezin and Ride Like The Wind Direct Finish. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009 | 25m, 1 | |||
26 | ★ El Mega Pump
An unwitting retrobolt of the first section of GSTQ. Start: Start as for GSTQ. FA: Wayne Jensen, 1990 | 35m, 5 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | |||||
26 R | End of the Earth
Originally established at 25 by taking a breather on the half-height ledge on the opposite side of the gully! To reach the start of the route, scramble up the wall opposite Dreadnought, to the big chockstone in the depths of the gully. Up short corner, then to the arete past bolt, then up and left to thin crack, then through overhangs to bolt, before moving up into left-facing corner. FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Chris Shepherd & Philby, 1991 FA: Done without stepping off by Dave Jones., 1998 | 25m, 2 | |||
26 R | Last Temptation Variant
The original version of Last Temptation. Climb the short arete, then up to roof. Break right over the hanging slab and join Great Temptation at its redpoint crux (also the point where the ledge is nearest). Finish as for that route. FA: Stuart Wythe, 2000 | 25m | |||
26 R | ★★ Great Temptation
Access via the chockstone halfway up the grade 4 access wall. You can also get here from the top of Dreadnought p1. Hand traverse, then the very overhung crack. The opposite wall is very close, so this route requires a very capable trad leader, or you might consider preplacing (easily done by leaning over from ledge then coming down the line from there). Also a good belayer is essential, and don't belay from the ground as there is no margin for excess ropestretch. FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 15m | |||
26 | ★★ Deliciously Deranged
Starts on the small stance 5m up and left from the DRB above Dreadnought pitch 1. Climbs the impossible looking overhung face to gain the crack weakness and hanging corner 3m right of Great Temptation. Extremely hard dynamic start past a bolt leads to pockets up and right, then traverse back left into hanging corner to a rest. Onwards up the fantastic corner to top. FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 25m, 2 | |||
26 | ★★ Cecil B De Mille
Start as for Dreadnought Variant but then stretch right to jugs, bolt and unique pillar pinch, finishing up and slightly left via a thin crux section. Powerful. FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 20m, 1 | |||
27 | Forced Entry Direct
Start 1m right of Dreadnought Variant and climb up past small pocket to slopey horizontal breaks. Past 2 bolts then traverse right to join No Exit near the top, and finish as for that route. FA: Stuart Williams, 1991 | 9m, 2 | |||
26 | ★ Forced Entry
Start 1m left of No Exit and boulder leftwards into line (FH). Hard moves lead up, then back right into No Exit. Finish as for that route. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985 | 15m, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||
26 X | Forbidden Fruit
The shenanigans on the first ascent suggest they were certainly consuming something forbidden... Start: Start 2m L of Semi-detached.
FA: James Falla, Dave Mudie (alt), Kieran Loughran, Richard Smith & late 80s, 1988 | 55m, 2, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | |||||
26 | ★ Anxious Boys with Power Toys
Plenty of angst here. Start 10m up L from Trench Warfare. FA: Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge & David Jones + 1, 1993 | 15m, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Ali's Area | |||||
26 | The Dude Abides
Start 1m left of Nursery Rhymes. Climb the funky roof to the left of Nursery Rhymes' crack passing 2 bolts. Join Nursery Rhymes on the arete and follow this to where it moves right. Move left instead passing a third bolt to gain an enormous hanging jug and a cramped rest. For full value avoid the temptation to bridge out left. From the jug step back right and crank a short boulder past a final bolt before finishing straight up the delightful headwall above. Bring a full set of wires to supplement the bolts. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010 | 30m, 4 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fechado Fang Buttress | |||||
26 | Hot Finger
Follow the BRs. Start: Start just L of O-W. FA: Martin Grulich, 1986 | 10m, 3 | |||
26 | ★ Strolling Direct Start
Obvious direct start (2 FHs) into 'Strolling', joining that route at its crux. Start: 5m R of Fang and 5m L of 'Strolling'. FA: Gordon Poulteney | 20m, 3 | |||
27 | ★★ Hyperlink
Up SDS then head R past a new FH on the bulge (which nearly retrobolts Strolling) and finish up 'Ergonomics'. Start: As for SDS. FFA: Gordon Poultney, 2005 | 25m, 6 | |||
26 | ★★★ Ergonomics
Recently re-bolted. Excellent long-overlooked addition that incorporates a direct finish to Strolling RHV. Direct line up the centre right of the buttress that would have been completely uncontroversial had it pre-dated Strolling RHV. Sustained climbing leads up and slightly left through a bulge to a technical crux. After the 4th bolt, continue straight up on blowable slopey pockets. Do not traverse off R here if you want to bathe in the social recognition of a legitimate ascent. Start: 3m R of Strolling. FA: Dave Jones 2005; Dave Jones | 20m, 5 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fechado Plaque | |||||
26 | Wilma Holds Her Own
As for FoF to piton, then L to seam. Start: Start as for FoF. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 12m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall | |||||
V6 | ★★ V6
| 4m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder | |||||
V6 | 3
Steep arete facing the creek | ||||
V6 | ★★ 9
Sit start. Up then a few moves on the lip of the roof | 3m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs John's Pinnacle | |||||
26 | Atomic Fusion
As for H to BR then trend L to roof, BR on lip, then up middle of face with high BR. FA: Martin Grulich, 1986 | 25m, 3 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Denim Wall | |||||
26 | ★★ Concise Exercise
Sustained. Start 12m up L from the start of Denim, part way up Vixen but access via ledge. Traverse the wall to finish up See You Round. FA: Scott Camps & Paul Johnston, 1988 | 35m, 5 | |||
26 | ★★★ Denim
"It will laugh at attempts to free it" - Keith Lockwood, Arapiles guidebook 1978. Freed by Kim in 1979 it didn't laugh for long but it still has plenty of chuckles at aspirants. Louise Shepherd made a particularly impressive ascent in 1984 - she fell off the initial roof, lowered off then did it second shot, onsighting most of the route and placing the gear. Possibly the first female ascent at this grade in AU (she'd previously onsighted 26 (!) in Yosemite in 1981). Start on the L side of the wall.
FA: Chris Baxter, John Moore & Clive Parker (aid), 1968 FFA: Kim Carrigan & Eddy Ozols, 1979 | 45m, 2, 2 | |||
27 | ★★ London Calling
Start 1.5m R of Denim. Up thin seam to traverse line, R and up to RB, diagonally R to 2nd RB, then trend L to 3rd RB (despite the unfortunate chipped hold, this is still the crux). Berlin Calling (29*) is a linkup of Balance of Power into London Calling (Nathan Hoette Nov '04). FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 23m, 3 | |||
26 | ★ See You Round
A very tough crux down low. Start just L of the south entrance to Ali Baba's Cave. Bulge then crack. FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981 | 20m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Flinders Lane Area | |||||
26 | Imagination DS
Start just R of SC. Fixed wire and BR to join the original. FA: Kim Carrigan FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 8m, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Blockbuster Ledge | |||||
27 | Taylor Made
Up GtAT for a few metres then straight up the line of bolts into the finish of QV. Start: Start as for GtAT. FA: Nick White & Andy Pollitt, 1990 | 30m, 4 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||
26 R | Very Anxious
Sounds like it might be serious, or maybe it's just that Louise was having a go at Kim's psyche. Who knows. Start down L of AN and go straight up to join AN at it's crux. Finish at AN pitch 1 lower-offs. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 20m | |||
26 R | ★ Holy Moses
Start at the first belay of AN. Up the face just L of the arete (the arete being p2 of AN). Then join a sickle with a fixed wire. Sparse pro. Finish at lower-offs above AN pitch 2. FA: Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrigan, 1981 | 20m | |||
26 | ★★★ Anxiety Neurosis
Start under the R side of the low overhang on the N arete of Bluff Major.
| 27m, 2, 4 | |||
26 | ★★ Anxiety Neurosis P2 Direct
From the anchor of Anxiety P1, head straight up the arete on its right side, but instead of deviating out left in the last two-thirds (original finish), keep trucking up the arete all the way, to lower-offs. FA: Jill McLeod | 20m | |||
27 | Anxiety Neurosis Original Line
As for AN but follow the original aid line up leftwards from the 2nd FH - don't drop down to get to the arete. Bouldery. Start as for AN. | 20m, 2 | |||
26 | ★★ Bounds
Follow Anticipation towards AN, as far as a ledge with a FH. Now go straight up disconnected seams to a bolt then step L to bulging crack, finishing at lower-offs above ND. Needs plenty of #3 RPs. FA: Kim Carrigan & Geoff Weigand, 1984 | 30m, 2 | |||
26 R | ★★★ New Diocese Bulk More Direct
Up ND but instead of trending R go up then L, very bold, to lower-offs. Eddy Mofardin has also climbed a variant, perhaps a bit further left of Roland's line, but this could do with clarification. Eddy FA: Roland Foster & Philby, 1984 | 30m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | |||||
26 | ★★ The Prow
Start as for StS. As for StS to the break then up the arete, making sure your photographer is ready for when you whip. FA: Simon Mentz & Andrew Eastaugh, 1994 | 22m, 6 | |||
27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure
Start as for Station to Station. Up StS until it heads to the arete then move R and up past 3 more bolts to loweroffs. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 27m, 7 | |||
26 | The Year of Loving Dangerously
Start 4m R of, and 8m down from, D. Bring brackets. Slim groove with BR&FH, then L onto ledge. Now over roof (BR) and follow faint groove up R to next roof (BR), and then join Despatched. FA: Nick White & Kelly Lenglet, 1991 | 30m, 4 | |||
26 | ★ Veneer
Start 3m left of Unrequited. Climb the face left of Unrequited passing three bolts before gaining that route a few moves before it escapes right. Step left and boulder the short wall above passing a final high bolt. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009 | 15m, 4 | |||
27 | ★★ Requited
Start at the top of Unrequited. Straight up the awesome headwall past bolts, to the Despatched lower-off. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 30m, 2 | |||
26 | Recent Theft
Start 5m R of Unrequited. Bouldery past the bolt. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 20m, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | |||||
27 | ★ Fox on a Hot Thin Roof
A very technical ceiling. Take a #4 Friend for the wide slot at the end. The prominent roof crack left of The Good... Scramble up to belay just below roof. Undercling left past two fixed wires to the wide slot. Back aid to descend (no in-situ anchor). FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Peter Watson, 1977 FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1979 | 25m | |||
26 | ★ Into the Black
The steep bits look like a hoot, shame about the rest. Previously said to be a 30m route which was certainly wrong. The total height to Flinders Lane is 100m. The difficult section finishes after about 50m. Start: Start as for TGTBaTU.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Roddy McKenzie, 1980 | 30m, 2 | |||
26 | ★ The Last Emperor
Starts a pitch up and climbs wall between Marbuck and You Can't Stop the Gobble - see topo. Belay on ledge Up the orange wall and through the bulge (crux) then left across the steep wall R of Marbuck. Rap as for Marbuck. Two bolts. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2015 | 32m, 2, 2 | |||
26 | ★★ Vanya Going Underground
Fantastic climbing and very, very tough. The route was done with a fixed wire to protect the start - the wire is no longer there so you may want to place it on rap. Up the thin seam on the orange streak, L and up flake, head R then back L and over roof. Start: Start 6m R of NF. FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1984 | 25m | |||
26 R | ★★ Is Vanya a Dog?
A very technical and super reach dependent face route which is a tad bold to start. Used to be a very sandbagged 24 for many years. Solid for the current grade! FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983 FFA: 1983 | 18m, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Crankshaft Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ Crankshaft Traverse
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Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Gonzo Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★ Traverse
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Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders The Chicken Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Attack a Helpless Chicken
| 6m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Castle Crag | |||||
26 | Think Positive
As for 'The Low Down' until 1st bolt, then go up R to another bolt and into 'A Cut Above'. Step R into mossy seam and head up to ledge with rap anchors. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 22m | |||
26 | ★ Siva Eva Mor Direk
Crimp straight up from where Siva Direct spans left. A better finish. FA: Gordon Poultney | 15m, 1 | |||
26 | ★ Siva Direct
As for Siva, then move slightly right and up past carrot bolt, then fixed hanger. A span to holds on the arete allows passage into the top of Swinging thereafter. Originally graded 24 in Carrigan's '83 guide. Incorrectly drawn up in the Mentz/Tempest Select Guide as a LH finish to The Overtaker. FA: Mark Moorhead., 1983 | 20m, 2 | |||
26 | ★★★ Procol Harum
The country's first 26. Start: At the back L corner of the cave a line leads up to the prominent roof crack. FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966 FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978 | 25m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ Body Recession
Climb past 3 bolts (and sometimes a fixed wire) to a lower-off. Start: Bounding the L end of the grotto is an overhanging orange wall. FA: Martin Scheel, 1989 | 15m, 3 | |||
27 | ★★ Hot Coq
Up the orange wall past 5 inconspicuous carrots. Apparently, finishing directly past the last one is the most 'enjoyable' way to do the route. Start: At the R edge of the grotto, 2m R of Catch 22/This. FA: Nick White, 1992 | 15m, 5 | |||
26 | Soft Cock
Position yourself at the base of the coq. slide up and right passing a bolt, then when things start to ease off, jump back on the coq and take it to the top. | 17m, 3 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area New Image Wall | |||||
25/26 | ★★ Lick the Spoon
Thin with some long moves on fantastic rock. 5 FHs to the right of Blackguard. Lower off. FA: Gareth Llewellin & Geordie Webb, 4 Nov 2016 | 20m, 5 |