Home Cliff Principalmente Escalada trad 47 vias no penhasco

The left-most named climb on the Main Corner area, it goes up the Arete at the foot of the ascent/descent gully. Variations branching out on the wall to the left of the Arete are possible. 2 bolt anchor at top.

About halfway between Broken Corner and "Crack and Block" there is a faint vertical crack splitting the upper part of the face, start on some good holds then work your way up to the crack (the edge of the wide crack on the right is part of "Crack and Block", not this climb). No protection for the first part (the hard part), so top-rope (anchors for Broken Corner) may be preferred.

This is more of a V2 boulder problem, top-roped (because of the tumble-off at the landing) than a climbing route.

Start one terrace down from Back to the Wall.

Climb up the dihedrals to a couple ledges, then finish up the arete above.

This is one of the better protected climbs on this section of the cliff.

This has been climbed as a top-rope variation from the "Back to the Wall", but has recently had its own anchor installed and a bit of cleanup done on the route itself.

Start just left of the major arete right of main corner. Move up to a large ledge on the right. Traverse down and rightwards along the ledge to the end end, and a bolted anchor. (Optional belay, anchor is for a sport climb below.) Head up the crack to the right then continue diagonal up and right ending at the anchors for "Peggy".

Not often climbed anymore, so a bit dirty and licheny. Also occasionally run-out, and committing for a 5.3 -- not a good early lead.

Follow the bolts straight up the overhanging wall. After gaining the ledge, continue past two more bolts to reach the anchor. Although easy climbing, it is significantly runout between the last bolt and the anchor. Some gear placements are available.

Start as for "Peggy". Climb up to the square block, then pass it on the left. From the top of the block, make a rising traverse leftwards to the arete, to join "Arete and Ramp".

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A prominent left facing corner 10m to the right of Arete and Ramp. Climb up to a square block. Pass it on the right, then continue up the corner, using the arete as desired. Finish up a short wall.

Opening move onto the initial ramp is unusually difficult, then rest of the climb goes at a comfortable 5.5.

Starts on the ramp just right of "Peggy" -- the lower of the two parallel ramps.

1. (5.6) Climb up the ramp immediately right of "Peggy", then traverse back left to belay on top of the square block of Peggy.

2. (5.6) Climb 3m up the corner, then step right onto the arete. Traverse right at more or less constant height all the way to "Piton Highway", up which the route finishes.

Original PG/R, but now can borrow bolts from several climbs that it crosses in what was, formerly, the badly run-out section, meaning it now is quite well protected.

Also, it can be climbed in a single pitch rope lengthwise, but two pitches is advisable for rope-drag issues.

Start as per "Rupert Bear Goes Hiking", but climb directly up and leftwards towards the thin crack and bolt. Poorly protected until the ledge is reached.

Start 6m right of of the arete of "Peggy". At a place where there is horizontal finger crack in the bright pink rock.

Climb up angling slightly rightwards towards the cave, then hand-traverse leftwards to a ledge below a crack that rises diagonally rightwards (visible bolt). Climb up this crack rightwards, then generally up and right following bolts to a shared anchor with "The Original Route" and "Lavender".

Start below a cave about 6m off the ground, and climb up to its right-hand side. Pull through the cave & roof as you can (left side, direct, right-side -- all have choices) to a bolt. Follow the bolts to the shared anchor at top.

5 bolts + gear.

About 6m left of Piton Highway, climb up diagonally right to a small notch in the overhang, pull over at the right side of this notch, then traverse back leftwards to a thin crack (bolt). Climb up this, then up and leftwards following bolts to below the final anchor and straight up to it. Shares anchor with "The Original Route" and Rupert Bear.

Excellent climbing throughout

Starting a few meters left of Piton highway, there is a low bolt, start up to this, pulling the initial overhang very close to (unnamed 3) then follow the line of bolts that angles leftwards up the cliff.

Just left of Piton Highway is a sparse set of bolts heading up parallel to it. Climb the line defined by these bolts to an anchor a couple meters left of the Piton Highway anchor.

At the far right of the climbable area, look for the obvious left-facing vertical corner. Climb this direct to a short wall, then up to a pair of bolts for anchors. A couple of bolts have recently been added in places that used to be protect by old pitons.

There are a couple variations: Piton Arete: use the Arete to bypass the hard moves in the corner. 5.6. Piton Byway: follow Piton Highway to the hard moves, traverse right on big holds, then up right of the Arete. 5.6

Follow "Piton Highway" to the first hard moves at the foot of the corner. Traverse 1m right on huge holds. Go straight up, keeping slightly right of Piton Highway/Arete until the final wall. Finish as per "Piton Highway".

Or, for a longer variation, start above the leaning boulder at the belay and climb directly up from there to the face right of the arete, and continue staying completely right of the line of Piton Highway/Arete until the finishing moves at the anchor.