Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Popularidade | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Eagle's Nest Main Cliff | |||||
5.6 | ★ Nursery Slab
There are a number of possible ways up this slab from 5.0 to 5.6. It can be wet. It doesn't seem to be often climbed. | 9m | |||
5.7 | ★★ Boomin' System
Climb dihedral then out on face to Left up to ledge. From ledge stick to the left of the face. | 10m, 3 | |||
5.9 | The Overhang
| 9m | |||
5.11 | ★ No Man's Land
| 9m | |||
5.9 | ★ Kestrel
| 9m | |||
5.10a | ★★ Guillotine
| 8m | |||
5.6 | ★ Gully Wall
Climb the slab to the left of the gully. You can either climb on the left or the right. There is one bolt directly off of the trail for protection to set up a top anchor. Two top rope bolts and 4 sport bolts on the face. Maint: | 9m, 4 | |||
5.5 G | Sea Gully
| 15m | |||
5.7 | ★ Black Streak
| 15m | |||
5.11c | ★ Evening Wall Direct
| 9m | |||
5.9 | ★★★ Evening Wall
| 10m | |||
5.4 R | Tony's Corner
| 10m | |||
5.7 G | ★★ The Cave
| 10m | |||
5.7 G | Crack in the Ceiling
| 13m | |||
5.7 G | ★ Big Mac
| 10m | |||
5.7 | ★★ Big Mac Sport
Located at the right end of the cliff, by the scree slope. | 10m, 4 | |||
5.9 | ★ Hamburglar
Start on the ledge to the right of Big Mac Sport. Follow the bolts up the shallow dihedral to the ledge and finish on Big Mac Sport. FA: Alec Soucy, 23 Oct 2017 | 10m, 4 | |||
5.9 | Wanton Destruction
| 4m | |||
Eagle's Nest The Back Slabs | |||||
5.6 PG | ★ Mobster Sauce
Located at the far left of the Slab. Start on the arete, pull over the mini roof and head straight up the centre of the well-featured face. This climb has more texture than the rest of the glassy slab. Fun but short. FA: Alec Soucy, 24 Apr 2017 | 5m | |||
5.5 X | The X route
This route is supposed to follow a crack system, but I have peeling back the moss and haven't found any crack system on this wall. There is a line of weakness composed of small ledges and niches, so I presume this is where the line goes. FA: J.P. Brown & Andrew Parsons | 8m | |||
5.7 G | ★★ The G Route
Start on bottom of sloping ledge left of Pod People and follow the bolts up. FA: Alec Soucy, 21 Jul 2017 | 8m, 3 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Pod People
Start with a hand in each pod and mantle up. Climb the face directly to the right of the arête. At the ledge step out left to finish up FA: Alec Soucy, 13 Jun 2017 | 12m, 5 | |||
5.6 PG | ★ The Good
Starting at the triangular block, climb the slab at the far end of the overhang. Climb the dihedral at the overhang and straight up the headwall to the top. There is a good tree for an anchor right above it. FA: J.P. Brown & Andrew Parsons | 8m | |||
5.6 | The Good var. 1
Start on The Good, but when you get to the roof go right under the tree and up the crack system. FA: J.P. Brown & Andrew Parsons, 1994 | 8m | |||
5.8 G | ★ The Bad
Start beneath a bolt. Climb past some horizontal cracks and follow a vertical crack system up to a small roof. Climbing the roof brings you to a ledge with a short second wall above. Double ring anchor on the ledge is shared with 'The Ugly'. FA: J.P. Brown & Andrew Parsons, 1994 Maint: Alec Soucy, 13 Sep 2017 | 8m, 1 | |||
5.8 | ★★ The Ugly
Follow the line under the shiny new bolt. When you get to the roof follow the line of weakness to the right. Double ring anchor. FA: J.P. Brown & Andrew Parsons, 1994 Maint: Alec Soucy, 13 Sep 2017 | 8m, 2 | |||
5.10 | ★ Flying Dutchman
Follow the line of bolts up the slab and pull over the prominent roof. FA: Tony Veling, 1990 | 8m, 5 | |||
5.9 | The Unforgiven
| 5m | |||
5.8 | Foxhole
| 4m | |||
5.7 | ★ Sliding Board
| 4m | |||
Eagle's Nest Slab Annex | |||||
5.9 | ★ All Aboard the Crazy Train
Start below the first bolt and climb up the centre to the ledge and continue up the face. The climb was bolted the week that Trump fired CIA Director James Comey - hence the name. Bring Slings and biners for the top anchor bolts. FA: Alec Soucy, 28 May 2017 | 10m, 5 | |||
5.6 PG | Disillusionment
Climb the ramp into the dihedral, to the left of All Aboard, and then up to the thin crack. Bring slings to tie off trees. FA: Alec Soucy, 21 Jul 2017 | 8m | |||
5.8 | ★★ Where the Wild Things Are
Start on the jugs below the overhanging arête (there is an easier direct start, but it is a lot less fun.) Work right to the ledge, go up the alcove to the ledge and up the centre of the wall to top out. For a slightly harder variation avoid the jugs around the corner at the top of the alcove. The name comes from the primordial feeling at the base... and also the dried coyote shit at the top when I first cleaned it. 3 bolts and a two bolt anchor. Bring slings and biners for the top anchor bolts. FA: Alec Soucy, 25 May 2017 | 8m, 3 | |||
Eagle's Nest The Schoolroom | |||||
5.5 | Little Jack's Corner
| 10m | |||
5.6 | Little Jack's Corner var.
| 10m | |||
5.6 | ★★★ Humpty Dumpty
| 10m | |||
5.5 | Jack and the Beanstalk
| 10m | |||
5.5 | Jack and the Beanstalk var.
| 10m | |||
5.5 | ★ Itsy Bitsy Spider
| 10m | |||
5.4 | Drury Lane
| 10m | |||
Point Pleasant Park Main Boulder | |||||
★★ Low Traverse
Start at the left arete on the lowest ledge. Traverse right in the horizontal weakness onto the block on the right. Top out on the other side of the right block. | |||||
V3 | The Cure SDS
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V0 | ★ Climb the Face
| ||||
V3 | Monoculture SDS
| ||||
V0 | High Traverse SDS
Start on 'Climb the Arete SDS' but don't top out. Instead, traverse the horizontal break below the top arete and end on the left ledge. | ||||
V0 | ★ Climb the Arete SDS
| ||||
Point Pleasant Park Birch Tree Boulder | |||||
V0 | Birch Tree Stand
Standing start | 3m | |||
V1 | Birch Tree SDS
| 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Birch Tree SDS Eliminate
Eliminate arete | 3m | |||
VB- | Right Steps
Blocky downclimb on the right arete | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ For King & Country
Starts on the two pockets in the middle of the face - left foot on small ledge, right foot smear, then easy throw to nice pocket. Top out straight up from there. Fun little move! FA: Austin Maillet | 3m | |||
Point Pleasant Park Pine Tree Boulder | |||||
V0 | Pine Tree SDS
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V2 | ★ Martello SDS
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V2 | ★ Easy Does It SDS
Sit start on the block, then traverse right around the corner and top out. | ||||
Fox Lake The Spa | |||||
Soaker
SDS. sit, avoiding the water-filled sump at the base. Pull up the center for the top. | 2m | ||||
Fox Lake Orca | |||||
Left
SDS up crack on left | 2m | ||||
Middle
SDS up thin seam. | 2m | ||||
Right
SDSStart with hands in the whale's mouth. | 2m | ||||
Fox Lake Humpa Lumpa | |||||
Up center
Climb the bulging arête. | 3m | ||||
Travere
Start in the alcove on far right and work left. | 34m | ||||
Fox Lake Trump's Comb-over | |||||
Left Slab
| |||||
V1 | Gunnin' for Kim
Layback up the crack. Watch the block at the top. Seems ok but sounds worryingly hollow. FA: Alec Soucy, 18 Apr 2017 | 3m | |||
Right Slab
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Fox Lake Polar Bear | |||||
Neck
Climb along the "neck" of the bear, the crack/ shallow dihedral at the right. Top o out by grabbing the bear's nose. | |||||
Belly Slab
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Bare Arse
Climb the arete at the right, on the bear's rear. The face on the boulder beside it is out. | |||||
B arete
Same crack as "Bare Arse", but only feet only on B Boulder, to the right of Polar Bear. | |||||
B Slab
Climb centre of B Boulder. | |||||
B Boulder Right
Climb right of B Boulder. | |||||
Leftovers
SDS. The piled boulders right of B Boulder. | |||||
Fox Lake The A Team | |||||
Left of A
Climb the arete at left. Check that the boulder on top is solid first! | |||||
A Nose
Climb to the right of the A. Check that the boulder on top is solid first! | |||||
Right of A
Climb the far right of A. | |||||
Mr T
Climb the boulder to the right of the A Boulder. | |||||
V0 | Pity the Fool
Right side of Mr. T. Fist Jam up the crack. FA: Alec Soucy, 2 Dec 2016 | ||||
Across from T
SDS. Climb Boulder across from Mr. T. | |||||
Fox Lake Path Rock | |||||
Path Face
SDS. Face closest to the path. The crux is getting off the ground. | |||||
Arete
SDS. Hug your way up the arete. | |||||
Back Face
SDS. Face closest the hill, away from path. | |||||
Traverse
Traverse lip on the backside. | |||||
Fox Lake Quarter Dome | |||||
V0 | Robbins Fumes, Harding Consumes
Climb the obvious features on the right. FA: Alec Soucy, Jun 2016 | ||||
Left Arete
Climb arete on the left. | |||||
Face
Climb small hoods up the face. | |||||
Fox Lake Holy Oak | |||||
Face
Climb short face. Probably not worthwhile. | |||||
Fox Lake Hidden Slab | |||||
Face
Up short face. | |||||
Traverse
Traverse into the nook from right and then across the A Hidden Slab | |||||
Fox Lake Chrome Dome | |||||
Traverse
| |||||
Dome left
Highball | |||||
Dome centre
Highball | |||||
Dome right
Highball | |||||
Far right
Highball | |||||
Fox Lake Thin Slice Please | |||||
Arete
Highball | |||||
Corner 1
Highball | |||||
Corner 2
| |||||
Step out
Start up right corner then step out onto the face. Highball. | |||||
Fox Lake The Wall of Heavenly Peace | |||||
Slab left
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Thin crack
Climb the obvious thin crack. This might be one of the best problems in this area. | |||||
Slab right
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Fox Lake Hannibal Crossed the Alps | |||||
Traverse
Long traverse from left to right, or right to left. Very dirty at the moment. | |||||
Fox Lake The Ogre | |||||
Ogre Traverse
Traverse the crack from right you left following the diagonal crack. Highball. |