Ajuda

Rocha: Thin rock under anchor likely to break off

There is a large thin piece of rock that is likely to break off under the anchor for all routes from "Krowia rysa" to "Krowie zaci─Öcie". It is marked with a cross, you should instead use holds to either side that are almost as good.

See warning details and discuss

Created 10 months ago

Sazonalidade

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Descri├ž├úo

­čôĽIncomplete sport climbing topo in a PDF and on portalgorski.pl. Incomplete bouldering topo on 27crags.

Quest├Áes de acesso herdado de Poland

­čŽůCheck in with the "Ptaki w ska┼éach" spreadsheet for routes with nesting birds.

Ética herdado de Beskidy i Pogórza Karpackie

There are no set-in-stone ethics for the Beskid Mountains and Carpathian Foothills region, but there are guidelines everyone should follow to minimize the impact.

  • Never climb on wet sandstone. You have to wait for 1-4 full days after rain depending on the area as the rock is brittle when wet.
  • Use chalk reasonably and remove it when possible. The white spots worsen the aesthetics, reduce friction when too much is built up, and sometimes irreversably change the mineral structure of the rock.
  • Avoid overbrushing. Only use brushes with soft bristles and do not press too hard.
  • It is better to use UFOs and knots (textile protection) instead of metal gear when trad climbing, but both are usually deemed okay.
  • Do not create artificial holds. It is allowed on some quarries, but even there it is reserved for a select few.
  • Avoid climbing in areas where it is explicitly forbidden (all national parks, most nature reserves, some natural monuments).

Unfortunately, all of the rules stated above are broken regularly, often times by experienced local climbers.

Vias

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Grade Via

Usually done unprotected, however it is possible to make it safer by clipping into some bolts.

FA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1981

NA: Jacek Trzem┼╝alski, 2014

FA: Marek Lip & Jacek Czy┼╝, 1986

NA: Anna Szymkowska-Czy┼╝, 1989

FFA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1989

NA: Jacek Trzem┼╝alski, 1992

FA: J. Ruszała, 2007

FA: Tadeusz Balawender, 1992

FFA: Andrzej Śmiały, 1992

FA: Rafał Nowak, 2003

FA: Paweł Nowak, 1996

FA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1992

FFA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1992

NA: Sebastian Kostkiewicz, 1993

FA: Wiesław Szczepanek, 1981

FFA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1982

NA: Anna Szymkowska-Czy┼╝, 1988

FA: Paweł Nowak, 1994

FA: Stanisław Zych, 1988

FFA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1988

FA: Marek Lip, 1986

NA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1986

NA: Anna Szymkowska-Czy┼╝, 1989

NA: Grzegorz Brydak, 1990

FA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1992

NA: Jacek Trzem┼╝alski, 1992

FA: Maciej Bedrejczuk, 2009

FA: Paweł Nowak, 1994

FA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1981

FFA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1983

NA: Jacek Trzem┼╝alski, 1992

FA: Wiesław Szczepanek & Wojciech Pasierb, 1976

FFA: Mariusz Fus & Andrzej Śmiały, 1978

FA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1988

FA: Grzegorz Rettinger, 2009

FA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1983

FFA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1992

NA: Piotr Drobot, 1993

FA: Grzegorz Rettinger, 2009

FA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1992

NA: Jacek Trzem┼╝alski, 1992

FA: Stanisław Polański & Jan Kubit

FFA: Wiesław Szczepanek, 1975

"Krowia droga" should be logged separately as the first pitch.

FA: Jacek Czy┼╝ & Marek Kroker, 1981

NA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1986

FA: Andrzej Śmiały, 1992

FA: Leszek Bedrejczuk & Maciej Bedrejczuk, 2010

FA: Jacek Trzem┼╝alski, 1997

FA: T. Oleksy, 2006

FA: Wojciech Pasierb & Mariusz Fus, 1975

FA: Jacek Czy┼╝ & Tadeusz Balawender, 1981

FFA: Anna Szymkowska-Czy┼╝, 1992

NA: Jacek Trzem┼╝alski, 1992

FA: T. Poznański, 2003

FA: Grzegorz Mitoraj & Piotr W├│jcikiewicz, 1993

FA: Stanisław Zych, 1987

NA: Piotr W├│jcikiewicz, 1993

FA: Jacek Jaworski, 1976

FA: Jacek Trzem┼╝alski, 1999

FA: Bartek Rokosz & Jacek Trzem┼╝alski, 2004

FA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1984

FFA: Jacek Trzem┼╝alski, 1992

NA: Sebastian Kostkiewicz, 1993

FA: J. Ruszała, 2007

FA: Andrzej Śmiały, 1994

Sometimes done as a single route with "G├│ra Zachodniego filara". The first bolt is dangerously high from the ground.

FA: Marek Kroker, 1981

FA: Grzegorz Guzik, 1992

FA: J. Ruszała, 2008

FA: Marek Kroker, 1981

FFA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1994

FA: J. Ruszała, 2008

FA: Grzegorz Rettinger, 1999

FA: J. Ruszała, 2007

FA: Stanisław Zych, 1988

FFA: Paweł Nowak, 1994

FA: P. Kordek & Grzegorz Rettinger, 2003

FA: Maciej Trzem┼╝alski & Jacek Trzem┼╝alski, 2002

FA: Rafał Nowak & Jacek Trzemżalski, 2002

FA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1991

FFA: Maciej Trzem┼╝alski, 1995

FA: Maciej Trzem┼╝alski, 1998

FA: Tadeusz Balawender, 1992

FA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1981

SD

HE

SD

SD

SD

HE

HE

HE

HE

SD

SD

SD

SD

HE

SD

HE

SD

SD

Now rarely climbed and not drawn in guidebooks. More information in the 1993 Jacek Czy┼╝ guidebook.

Ends on higher anchor.

FA: Wiesław Szczepanek, 1981

FFA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1982

NA: Anna Szymkowska-Czy┼╝, 1988

Skips ending crux by traversing to the right slightly.

FA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1988

FFA: Mariusz Biedrzycki, 1992

NA: Sebastian Kostkiewicz, 1993

Starting like "Krowia Rysa", overhang with "Minimal Art". Ends on higher anchor.

FA: Jerzy Rajzer, 1976

FFA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1992

Ends on higher anchor.

FA: Marek Lip, 1986

NA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1986

NA: Anna Szymkowska-Czy┼╝, 1989

NA: Grzegorz Brydak, 1990

Traverses to the right along the low crack starting with "Strachy na Lachy" and ending with "Krowia droga".

FA: Janusz Witek & Jacek Jaworski, 1979

Ends on higher anchor.

FA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1992

NA: Jacek Trzem┼╝alski, 1992

Starting like "Minimal Art", overhang with "Prawa płyta". Ends on higher anchor.

FA: Anna Szymkowska-Czy┼╝, 1993

Ends on higher anchor.

FA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1981

FFA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1983

NA: Jacek Trzem┼╝alski, 1992

Ends on higher anchor.

FA: Wiesław Szczepanek & Wojciech Pasierb, 1976

FFA: Mariusz Fus & Andrzej Śmiały, 1978

First 2 bolts as "Krowi ┼Ťrodek", then following the right side of the arete and going straight up as "Rekonstrukcja". Ending unclear.

Same as "Krowi ┼Ťrodek", then traversing to the right on the shelf and ending with "Krowia droga".

FA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1988

Same as "Krowi ┼Ťrodek (wariant pierwotny po lewej)", but ending with "Krowia droga na szczyt".

First 2 bolts as "Krowi ┼Ťrodek", then following the right side of the arete. Traverse to the right on the shelf slightly and go up as "Hat-Trick", without the crack. Finish on the anchor of "Krowia droga". Used to be a lot easier with a tree in place.

First 2 bolts as "Krowi ┼Ťrodek", then following the right side of the arete. Traverse to the right on the shelf and finish with "Krowia droga".

FA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1980

NA: Jacek Czyż & Kazimierz Ruszała, 1980

FFA: Wiesław Szczepanek, 1981

Ending mantle with "Ogrody Semiramidy" instead.

Goes around the slopy crack crux to the left.

FA: Jacek Jaworski, 1976

Ending mantle with "Mymladło".

FA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1980

Goes around the slopy crack crux to the left, traverses to the right to "Wielka załupa" right afterwards

Starts the same as "Filar Jaworskiego" to skip the start boulder.

FA: Mariusz Fus & Wojciech Pasierb, 1976

NA: Janusz Witek, 1979

NA: J. ┼╗arnowski, 1992

Start with "Kacyrek", traverse to the left after reaching a comfortable platform. Do one mantle with "Klucze od kabiny", traverse to the left and end with "Trawers gigant".

FA: Marek Kroker & Jacek Czy┼╝, 1980

Start with "Kacyrek", traverse to the left after reaching a comfortable platform. Do one mantle with "Klucze od kabiny", then end with "Marynarzu, już płynę".

FA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1981

Start with "Kacyrek", traverse to the right and end with "Ostra profuzja".

FA: Andrzej Śmiały, 1979

Start with "Kacyrek", traverse to the right and end with "Wschodnia grań".

Initially done with "Pastwisko", now the shortened version is more popular.

FA: Jacek Czy┼╝, 1981

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