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Mostrando os 35 vias.

Grade Via Estilo de equipamento Popularidade
Brâul Ciorânga Mare
5B Fisura Galbenă Trad 5
4B Muchia Lungă Trad 6
4A Lespedea din Circul de Piatră Trad 4
3B Vâlcelul Spălat Trad 4
2A Hornul Închis Alpine 5
7 R2 Vis Împlinit Trad 3
Peretele Ciorânga Mare
7- R4 Catrene și Dileme Trad 4
6- A0 3A Canionul Ciorânga Mare Trad 4
6+/7- A1 5B Feţele din Stânga Lirei Trad 6
6+ Muchia Bondarului
1 4 45m
2 2 40m
3 3 45m
4 5 40m
5 6+ 45m
6 3 45m

4B Romanian, 6+ UIAA (5+/6- A0), S5/RS3 protection

A very airy and spectacular 2-pitch ridge, with a long scrambling approach. Bolted belays, two bolts in the crux and one on a friable portion of an approach pitch, a few old pitons and reasonable gear placement (recommended: 0.3 to 3 BD or equivalent cams, a couple of long slings, maybe some small nuts)

Approach - Entrance to Canionul Cioranga

P1: Start from Floricioiu's memorial plaque on 15m of runout easy grassy slab, keep left under a small rock wall (2 pitons and some gear placements available) then when the wall becomes a small peak head right on some slabs, past a cordelette-slung tree (the old belay) and on to a bolted belay. 4 UIAA, 45m

P2: Continue to the right up a wide gully, ignore the bolted belay on a platform to your left (it's from Les Pas R'venus) and continue on the gully to the belay. 2 UIAA, 40m

P3: At the piton above, cross 1 gully to the left (there's a bolt with yellow cordelette to guide you/protect the friable crux but it's not visible from the belay if you're short) and continue upwards on it until reaching a platform at the right of the ridge. 3 UIAA, 45m

P4: The first ridge pitch and the most airy. Gain the ridge on a runout 4 UIAA section (some placements for small gear available but not ideal) until pitons start appearing (the 5 crux is well protected). Belay in the saddle, on the left. 5 UIAA, 40m

P5: Gain the ridge using some vertical slabs (medium cams), then continue on it until reaching the crux crack of the route (bolted, and pitoned densely enough to French-free it). Exit right (free climb crux of the route). The next piton will be the last one of the pitch. Follow a crack back to the ridge (medium to large friends, protect the exit for the second) then walk on the ridge for 10 unprotectable meters to a rock horn and then the belay. 6+ UIAA (6 A0), 45m

P6: Follow a succession of easy slabs and chimnneys, avoiding a dwarf pine patch on the left, until reaching a second dwarf pine patch. The belay is on a single bolt, to the right of it. 3 UIAA, 45m

Retreat: Follow a rather unclear path to the dwarf pines until reaching Braul de Sus, which should be taken right towards Acul de la Amvon. Rappel/downclimb Valcelul cu Fereastra (30m raps)

Mixed trad 260m, 6, 3
6 - 7 A0 5B Lespezile Lirei Trad 6
7 R2 Traseul Nuşu Ion Trad 5
7 - 8 A0 Les Pas' Rvenus Trad 6
5B Surplomba Hornului Trad 7
6 - 7 A0 5A Traseul Central al Lirei Trad 7
7- R2 Frumoasele și Bestia Trad 4
6 R2 Loz în frig Trad 4
5B Apus de Soare Trad 5
2A Traversarea Peretelui Ciorânga Mare Trad
2B Muchia cu Fereastră

FA: Rupi & Laura B., 2013

Alpine 4
Turnul Nordic
7- R3 Toteme și blesteme Trad 4
7- R4 Catrene şi Dileme Trad 4
Brâul Frumos
3B Muchia Spălăturii Trad 4
4A Fisura Mariei Trad 4
3B Traseul Prima Creastă Trad 3
3B Traseul Spălătura Trad 3
3A Muchia Orbului Trad 3
Văi şi brâne
1B Brâul Ciorânga - Ramura de Jos Alpine
1A Padina lui Râie Alpine
1B Vâlcelul cu Fereastră Alpine
1A Vâlcelul cu Smirdar Alpine
1A Vâlcelul Câinelui Mort Alpine
1B Valea Ciorânga Alpine
1A Brâul de Sus Alpine
1B Firul secundar al Hornului Închis Alpine

Mostrando os 35 vias.

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