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Eurotechnoväggen

  • Contexto da graduação: SWE
  • Ascensões: 21
  • Aka: Porten

Sazonalidade

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Descrição

There are many slabs and easier routes on the west side including the classic Glückpilz links. A bit south from the slabs there is a boulder surrounded by some flora with a few problems.

About 100 meters east from the slabs you will find Eurotechno, Hålslabben, and Hålareten surrounded by many other bouldering problems.

Questões de acesso herdado de Hönö

https://access.bergsport.se/hono/

All climbing is in the Ersdalen nature reserve so behave accordingly. No bivouac, fire or rubbish!

Vias

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Grade Via

Using the large crack as an arête and climbing just to the right of it. Don't use the stone stuck in the crack, as it is slightly loose and may cause a fall.

A classic on the left side of the arête, and using the arête.

Without using the larger crack on the left.

The start is the same sidepull as Eurotechno, but goes straight up in stead of right as Eurotechno does. A bit easier, but a much safer landing and still very fun.

Start with a side-pull, go up slightly with some good pockets and holds and then follow the edge to the right. The second half has a very bad landing, with rocks very close to your back. A bad fall here will result in injury even with several crash pads, be careful.

Difficult high start on small vertical crimps.

Starts rather high up on small crimps, a challenging first few moves with an easier top.

Super easy slab with decent hand- and footholds. Do not use the left most crack in which the tree is growing.

This is a nice entry to highballs as the landing is flat and good, the climb is easy, and the top out is safe. It is rather high though.

Super high slab with small but positive holds and a nice and deep mono pocket. This pocket may retain water after rains. The hardest part is the topout.

High slab with a decent landing but a sketchy top-out. The problem lies between the Halslabben and Silly Season problems. The colour and texture of the rock makes the holds hard to spot.

To the right of the slabs on the steep part. Strange crimpy holds, it is quite hard to find the beta. Do not use the crack to the right of the wall.

Small one move boulder requiring good crimping strength. Sit start with both hands on a crimp half way up, pull up from the ground, and reach for the top. There are only very bad feet holds.

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Author(s): Tomasz Ratajczak

Data: 2020

ISBN: 9789151953366

A comprehensive guidebook describing the rock climbing and sport climbing around Gothenburg in southwest Sweden, covering 55 crags and over 2,300 routes across a wide range of grades.

Acomodações próximas more Ocultar

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Tue 18 Apr
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