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Routes as trad in Aitoloakarnania

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Showing all 46 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Varasova - Kryoneri Rubicon Sector
{UIAA} 8 ΦΩΤΕΙΝΟ ΜΟΝΟΠΑΤΙ/SENDERO LUMINOSO

A multi pitch divided in two segments. The 1st 8 pitches are 250m and after a 10' walk the upper part is consisted of 9 pitches of 350m total. Second part is easier and more atmospheric.

Set: Vouturopoulos, T. Michailidis & A. Theodoropoulos, 1996

Mixed trad 600m, 17, 50
7a Luminous Path Trad 610m, 17
{UIAA} 6+ Notios Anemos
1 5+ 40m
2 6+ 35m
3 6 45m
4 6- 50m
5 4- 45m
6 4 50m

The last three pitches are easy but require some route finding since they don't have any permanent bolts besides the permanent anchors.

Trad 270m, 6
Varasova - Kryoneri Africana Sector
{UIAA} 7 Dalton

Maint: 2023

Mixed trad 22
{UIAA} 6 Afrikana
1 4+ 30m
2 5+ 40m
3 6 30m
4 6- 25m
5 5+ 20m
6 5 30m
7 4+ 25m

Maint: 2023

Mixed trad 200m, 7, 12
{UIAA} 8 Chistoforos Agnoglou

Maint: 2023

Mixed trad 140m, 4, 43
{UIAA} 7- Ellinomania
1 6 30m
2 6+ 45m
3 6+ 40m
4 7- 35m
5 6+ 20m
6 6- 25m
7 4- 45m

A mix route that follows the natural lines of the water grooves and cracks. Necessary equipment: 14 quickdraws, a set of nuts and a couple of medium friends. The first pitch is missing a bolt.

FA: D. Aivazidis & D. Mavropoulos, 2005

Maint: 2023

Trad 240m, 7
{UIAA} 6 Molon Lave
1 5-
2 5-
3 6

Typical Varsova climbing. 3rd pitch follows a crack-dihedral and provides sustained grade VI-, VI climbing.

Maint: 2023

Mixed trad 110m, 3, 5
{UIAA} 5+ Bow

Maint: 2023

Trad 160m, 6
{UIAA} 7 Fanatic
1 6 40m
2 7 30m
3 6 40m

Maint: 2023

Mixed trad 110m, 3, 11
{UIAA} 7- Mavro provato
1 4 35m
2 7- 40m
3 6 45m
4 6- 20m
5 3 60m

https://www.routes.gr/?Page=en/Climbing/Routes/MavroProvato

FA: G. Voutyropoulos - L. Mandrou., 2002

Maint: 2023

Trad 200m, 5
{UIAA} 6- Gonia

Maint: 2023

Trad 190m, 6
Varasova - Kryoneri Kolofotia sector
{UIAA} 6 Kolofotia
1 5+ 40m
2 6 35m
3 5+ 40m
4 4+ 25m
5 4- 40m

https://www.routes.gr/?Page=en/Climbing/Routes/Kolofotia

Located in between Africana and batman sector. Approach from Africana but stay at the bottom of the wall, find destroyed metal bridge and traverse to start of the route.

FA: D. Hasse - S. Eichinger, 1978

Maint: 2022

Trad 180m, 5
{UIAA} 1 to be deleted Trad 1m
{UIAA} 7+ Gatoulis
1 5 40m
2 6 15m
3 6+ 35m
4 4 15m
5 7+ 35m

As the first pitch one can also do the first pitch of kolofotia

Maint: 2022

Mixed trad 140m, 5, 4
{UIAA} 6 Kalos sxinosyntrofos
1 6 55m
2 5- 40m
3 5 55m
4 5- 50m

Great first pitch. The route has permanent anchors on all pitches besides the first one but requires some route finding.

Maint: 2022

Mixed trad 200m, 4, 1
{UIAA} 6+ Thalia
1 5 30m
2 6+ 35m
3 6+ 45m
4 6- 30m

Great 2nd and 3rd pitches

Maint: 2022

Mixed trad 140m, 4, 14
{UIAA} 7- Kentri
1 6 35m
2 7- 30m
3 7- 45m
4 6- 30m

Requires some gear but has many bolts.

Maint: 2022

Mixed trad 140m, 4, 16
Varasova - Kryoneri Batman Sector
6a+ Herod

A very popular trad-style corner.

FA: D. Korres & T. Adamakopoulos, 1979

Maint: 2022

Mixed trad 30m, 4
6c+ Batman

4 bolts at the start, for the last part you need Cams or Nuts.

Maint: 2022

Mixed trad 30m, 4
{UIAA} 8 Butterfly

Maint: 2022

Trad 3
Varasova - Kryoneri Pirgos Sector
5c Pyrgos
1 5b+ 25m
2 4c 20m
3 4c 10m
4 5c 25m
5 4c 20m
Mixed trad 100m, 5, 11
6c+ Rock 'n' Roll
1 6a+ 30m
2 6c+ 30m
3 6b 40m

FA: Dionyssis Stravagenis & Dimitra Hadji, 1990

Mixed trad 100m, 3, 24
6a+ Skala
1 4c 25m
2 5c+ 20m
3 6a+ 30m
4 4a 25m

Rappel down the route 'Pyrgos'

FA: 1975

Trad 100m, 4
{UIAA} 7- Remali
Mixed trad 85m, 3, 4
6c Heavy Metal
1 6b 30m
2 6c 30m
3 5c 35m

FA: Yiannis Agianniotakis & Dimitris Tsitsikas, 1989

Mixed trad 95m, 3, 16
{UIAA} 7+ A0 Geraki
Mixed trad 91m, 3, 17
6b O Xin Agilin
1 6b 25m
2 6a+ 30m

Set: Aris Theodorpoulos & Dimitris Bakalis, 1994

Mixed trad 55m, 2, 11
5c Calydonis Direct
1 5c 25m
2 5c 30m

FA: H, H. Lindner & R. Lindner, 1971

Mixed trad 55m, 2, 13
{UIAA} 6+ Mikrula
Mixed trad 56m, 2, 9
Varasova - Kryoneri Phyco Sector
6b Natassa
1 4c 20m
2 6b 25m
3 6a+ 20m

Maint: 2022

Mixed trad 65m, 3, 8
5c Calydonios Kapros
1 4c 30m
2 5c 30m
3 5b+ 25m

R1 30m IV+, R2 40m V+, R3 30m V-

Mixed trad 85m, 3, 8
5c Dromos ton Louloudion Direct
1 4c 30m
2 5c 30m
3 5a 25m
Mixed trad 85m, 3, 10
{UIAA} 6 Mnimonio Mixed trad 170m, 3, 6
{UIAA} 7- Adolescence

Maint: 2023

Mixed trad 130m, 5, 4
{UIAA} 7- Rilken

Attention: until April 2023 this route has not yet been rebolted

Mixed trad 6, 2
{UIAA} 7 Allergy

Attention: until April 2023 this route has not yet been rebolted.

Trad 5
{UIAA} 5- Flower's Way Trad 4
Varasova - Kryoneri Public Sector
{UIAA} 5 Public Trad 91m, 3
{UIAA} 5 Loufa Trad 91m, 3
{UIAA} 4+ Relax Trad 91m, 3
{UIAA} 4+ Anastasia Trad 91m, 3
{UIAA} 4 Widow Trad 91m, 3
{UIAA} 5- Alkistis Trad 40m, 2
{UIAA} 4 Schooling Ridge Trad 61m, 2
{UIAA} 4 Classic Ridge Trad 1200m

Showing all 46 routes.

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