Routes as sport in Central America

This is Esplendidos with its extension.

Hardest line in Holguín

This is The Wasp Factory with its extension.

For mutants that crimp on credit cards.

Para mutantes que pueden quedarse en tarjetas de credito

Hard boulder to start, sustained technical climbing through the middle.

Climb the irregularly shaped orange arête.

Risn’ up, straight to the top, you’ll have the guts, you’ve got the glory, went the distance, just a man and his will to survive. An endurance of hard, pumpy, climbing. Only those who jog up the steps of the Capital building, train extra hard and wear sweat pants will survive. With three very separate crux areas, El Ojo del Tigre is an endurance spectacular. You will find all three of the cruxes come at each of the three major roofs on the route. The first is no more than three meters from the ground creating an early pump. The climb continues on good holds and even becomes forward leaning at the beginning of the first light coloured patch. Before the roof at the first light coloured patch of wall, clip a mentally committing bolt before approaching the second crux. Manage through the main crux, a sloper overhang move to a hard bump before you can muscle your way over the roof. Do not fret there are jugs to come, but only momentarily before you reach the larger light coloured patch of the wall and the final crux. Completely overhanging off the lip, falling off here due to pump is not uncommon and allows for sizable airtime. Once you have commanded the final crux, climb first to the right for a bolt and then up to the left for two more bolts and then the anchors at the vegetation line. It is recommended to utilize extended draws for bolts directly under each roof section as rope drag can become an issue. Also, I would recommend tying a knot in the end of your rope as to avoid losing the belay. A 70m rope just squeaks in enough length to go the distance. 70m rope required

6 bolts hasta la primera reunion.

grado no exacto

Start right of the tufa and climb through the obvious low roof.

Start left of "The Wasp Factory" and finish left of the huge tufa.

Directly across form the first big tufa on the Right Wall.

Sustained, bouldery line on thin pockets. Remains an open project.

At the time of writing Esparteno has yet to see an ascent and is projected to be in the 5.13d range of difficulty. If it is confirmed at this grade it will be Costa Rica’s hardest climb. Start to the left of 'La Warefex'.

With some technical movement and an almost constant overhang, La Warifex is sure to demand a truly physical effort. Begin with a couple of long moves to good holds before traversing right and working the underside of a crack that moves up a small roof section. At the top of the roof think big and go for the good hold; miss and keep your legs tucked as to avoid kicking your belayer in the head. Continue working the decent holds until you reach a more vertical section where handholds seem to disappear and big burly moves are the name of the game. Finishing La Warefex is a crowd pleaser: do or fly time. Throw to the jug and clip with pride or take flight.

La Cloe, ‘La Warefex’ and ‘Espartans’, were all added in late 2010 by professional Spanish climber Eduard Marin Garcia. All three routes front hard and consistent steep climbing that requires serious brawn and technique, and are reminiscent of elongated boulder problems. La Cloe is the first climb you will encounter past ‘El Ojo del Tigre’. Between La Cloe and ‘El Ojo del Tigre’ there is also a small area for learning to deal with anchors. La Cloe starts directly overhanging and then ascents up and to the left, sharing a couple of moves with ‘La Warefex’ before continuing straight up to the anchors.

To the right of 'El Ojo del Tigre' and just as high. 70m rope required

Potentially 70-75m high but of unclear length. Bolted/rebolted on titanium.

This climbing route is an exciting project, yet to be conquered by anyone. It begins with a highly technical slab section that requires precise compression techniques. As you progress, the route transitions into a challenging roof section with a demanding sequence of physically and technically demanding movements. Navigating this sequence successfully is crucial to reaching the top of the route. With its combination of intricate footwork, precise handholds, and physical demands, this project offers a thrilling and rewarding climbing experience for those who dare to take it on. Be prepared to push your limits both mentally and physically as you strive to complete this uncharted climb.

Start to the left of ‘Chocolate Caliente’ on top of the talus. With a low percentage crux move that is low to the ground, this climb provides difficulty, frustration, and insecurity that keeps many climbers at bay. If you wish to attempt the compression dependent V7 boulder problem of a crux, please strongly consider stick-clipping the first two pieces of protection for safety as the crux is dangerously low to the ground. Finish the climb at the anchors shared with ‘Cholcolate Caliente’.

This route was bolted to be used as practice for aid climbing. A1.

Project. Be careful of the bees at the top part. They are usually quite chill, but it's your call.

Pitch 1 is La Preferida.

On the far right side of the tunnel entrance behind the big block.

Start on top of the concrete cube in the tunnel.

This is an alternative 2nd pitch for Puro Cubano and goes up straight from the anchor of pitch 1.

hard crux on small holds moving right after the third bolt. Easy after the ledge