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Routes as trad in Queensland

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 2,891 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
South East Wide Bay Burnett Mt Walsh National Park Mt Walsh Cows Hump
20 Vegan Carrots
  1. Cool moves pulling onto the arete and up tiered face followed by some thin moves on each bulge.

  2. Unprotected scramble up to corner, then plenty of good placements to single bolt anchor and natural pro.

Set by Mason Minto & Brenton Owens

FFA: Brenton Owens & Dani Hess, Oct 2016

Mixed trad 45m, 2, 7
Unidentified Flying Object Mixed tradProject 50m, 2, 7
17 Scrab Slamble

Climb up the tricky slab past three bolts and then up crack with good gear. Continue up the small crack with gear then up the slab past 4 more bolts.

FA: Brendan Coulter, Sep 2020

Mixed trad 45m, 7
22 Mono a Mono

A tad contrived but fun. Start at Grand hotel but clip the left bolt. Climb up the face on small pockets to a stance on the left, then continue up the face past gear (offset nuts) and a bolt to the DBB.

FA: Josiah Hess, Sep 2020

Mixed trad 20m, 3
20 Grand Hotel

The best pool and parmy in Biggenden. Climb up the slab past two bolts and then up the zig zagging crack. For full value, clip the anchor with an extender and continue up the slab past 5 bolts.

FA: Josiah Hess, Sep 2020

Mixed trad 40m, 8
Slippery Ripple

Unfinished project. Please stay off unless you want to end up running it out 20 meters up a tricky slab.

Mixed tradProject 40m, 4
South East Wide Bay Burnett Mt Walsh National Park Mt Walsh Mank Factory
18 Awkward Caterpillar

A left leaning hand crack starting from a ledge near the top of the bluff. To access, leave the tourist track at the last set of painted arrows before the summit and crawl through a small cave. Walk along ledge until you are at the base of the climb.

FA: Josiah Hess & Andrew Banks, Jun 2016

FFA: Josiah Hess, Dani Hess & Patrick Timm, Oct 2016

Trad 12m
15 Angry Chef

Up slab to the interesting bulge, follow the off-width crack either straight up or head to the back of the pillar for some spinning chock stone goodness. Finish up obvious hand crack exiting to the left for belay station. Pitch 2 is a pure scramble to escape to the ledge which finishes at the base of 'Awkward Caterpillar'.

FFA: Patrick Timm & Dani Hess, 16 Oct 2016

Trad 40m, 2
21 The Early Bird

Up slab to thin crack. Pull through a dubious crux and then up hand crack to ledge. Continue up crack to the right and scramble up the slab to a trad belay. It is possible to scramble back down to the ground by heading right.

FA: Josiah Hess & James Dobson, 19 Nov 2016

Trad 25m
South East Wide Bay Burnett Mt Walsh National Park Mt Walsh Sleeping Giant
24 Gluten free

Closed project, number 3 BD is needed for the start.

Set by zac

FA: Zac Trembath-Pitham, Kel & Brenton Owens, 2016

Mixed tradProject 30m, 7
MacPherson's Gold

Climbs right after clipping the first bolt of Gluten Free.

Set by zac & Josiah Hess

Mixed tradProject 30m, 6
19 Bittersweet Buffet
  1. 20m (19) The crack directly right of the large overhang. A fun offwidth, protectable by mid sized gear at the back, quickly turns into a smorgasbord of hand-jams and finger-locks, with solid rock and bomber placements the whole way. Trad belay near small tree.

  2. 30m (10) Squeeze through the chimney behind the overhang and then chimney up the right-hand side of the boulder to get back to the summit.

FFA: Josiah Hess & Patrick Timm, Oct 2016

Trad 50m, 2
Experience Altitude

Set by Josiah Hess

Mixed tradProject 35m, 9
Cookie Crumbles Mixed tradProject 35m, 7
South East Wide Bay Burnett Mt Walsh National Park Mt Walsh Watchtower
14 Sketchy

An ugly chimney!

FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham, 2016

Trad 15m
The Second Coming

Closed project.

Set by zac & Josiah Hess

Mixed tradProject 60m, 2, 5
South East Wide Bay Burnett Mt Walsh National Park Mt Walsh Torture Chamber
18 Trundle me harder

A glorious chimney followed by a gymnastics style hand jam through a bulge. Bonus points if you can do it without grunting! Finish left to small tree for belay and escape via scramble further up left. Stays in shade all day!

FA: Patrick Timm & Josh Lehman, 6 Nov 2016

FFA: Josiah Hess & James Dobson, 19 Nov 2016

Trad 15m
18 M2 X Batshit Crazy

Adjective: batshit;

Completely mad or crazy.

FA: Josiah Hess & Zac Trembath-Pitham, 5 Nov 2016

Trad 20m
20 Who are you Biggenden

Hard to get established in the crack, once in groan and grunt your way up the off-width past two obvious crux's to ledges then up faint hand crack to tree belay.

FA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & James Dobson, 5 Nov 2016

Trad 25m
16 Flake it off

Start up the obvious finger crack behind the flake just to the right of Who are you Biggeden, Follow it to a small ledge then trend left entering the offwidth, continue up until you can pull yourself up and over the large chockstone at the top of the crack. To tree belay.

FFA: James Dobson, Josiah Hess & zac, 2016

Trad 20m
17 Keep it Relevant

Up chimney to tricky exit. Walk up the slab to finish up a corner crack.

FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham, Josiah Hess & James Dobson, 19 Nov 2016

Trad 25m
South East Wide Bay Burnett Mt Walsh National Park Mt Walsh Wastelands
20 Mexican Flavoured Porridge With Ants

Located along the tape marked track behind the bluff. Up the line of weakness to a tricky section in the middle then continue up the offwidth crack to a small tree. You can walk off from the top.

FFA: Josiah Hess, James Dobson, Jacinda & Zac Trembath-Pitham, 20 Nov 2016

Trad 25m
South East Sunshine Coast Brooyar Black Stump Buttresses
13 Crack Chaser

Alright pro with an exciting topout before clipping the Anchor. Uses Sun Chaser's lower off.

Start: About 1 meter left of 'Sun Chaser', straight up the crack.

FA: Terry Forbes & Oliver Rickford, 2010

Trad 16m
14 Good for a Lifetime

6m right of Via the Rainbow. Climb pockets to ledge. Up face to slopey exit. Poor pro. More of a solo. Anchor off gumtree.

FFA: Za & Rainbow, 18 May 2018

Trad 11m
South East Sunshine Coast Brooyar Eagle's Nest
14 Lilliputian

The obvious finger crack 20m from the road. More of a protectable boulder problem than a climb.

FA: FSA Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991

Trad 6m
14 R Piccolo

Up fine seam at black streak at L end of this wall. Poor protection.

FA: FSA Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991

Trad 6m
14 Travails of a Tripping Termite

Long (pointless?) traverse.

Start: Starts off the block at the start of The Girl Who Lives On Heaven Hill.

FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty, 1993

Trad 30m
23 Tally-Ho The Fox

Initialled. Starts at the L of the white scoop. Up thin vertical flakes. Move L onto the big protruding horn, FH. Hard move up and onto the face with BR. Up tending R to the cave and through the centre of the roof (hidden BR). Take assorted wires and slings.

FA: Herb Brandmeier Paul wright, 1991

Trad 25m
18 Digit Crucifixion

Tough start.

Start: Start 3 metres left of TGWLOHH.

FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty, 1993

Mixed trad 10m, 1
17 The Girl Who Lives On Heaven Hill

Anyone who can provide any insight into the rationale for this route name or provide route beta please do so here, thanks.

FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty, 1993

Trad 8m
19 Looking For The Sun

The best route here - a must-do! It's a pity this amazing route is somewhat spoilt by a vicious little start. Oh well. Start 3m L of the previous route at the mini-arête. Up this to the FH and then a hard move past it to the break. Natural pro leads you up into the sweet orange rock and UB. Beautiful jugs up and R to UB, then up and L to a crack line. Up this placing lots of gear to ledge, then more juggyness past UB to cave. Sit and have a break before facing the rock again. Step R out of cave and up the pumpy, black, overhung groove to the top. Superb!

Start: Start 3m L of the previous route at the mini-arête.

FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty, 1993

Mixed trad 40m, 4
11 Lichenous Fury

Little trad climb. Take a big cam

Start: Below the starting boulder of '2 For Tea'.

Trad 6m
23 Who Is On First!

Climb the crack on natural gear to the juggy 1m roof. Clip BR around lip, then pull through to face above. Up to ledge. Final wall (BR) to tree. Rap off. At the moment it's vegetated and needs cleaning.

Start: Starts about 15m L of "CAC" at crackline running through the middle of the wall below the roof.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, 2000

Trad 15m
17 The Skirt Trad 15m
16 Pantsed

L of a couple of trees at the L end of the amphitheatre is this pleasant-looking naturally protected crackline running up the slab. With its bottomless start, it could be harder.

Trad 20m
15 Random Freak

Nearly gets a star! Start up corner as for Woosah Variant, using ring bolts for Unknown on your right or natural gear, take your pick. Continue straight up to horizontal hand crack, traversing right and up crack on good natural pro. Rap off huge tree or chains as for Woosah.

FA: Ryley Broekman & Adam Finney, 25 Mar 2016

Trad 20m
11 The Big Nothing

This is a good beginner route with great gear up a corner finishing at a tree belay.

Start: 8m R of the Let's Bail arete.

Trad 7m
10 Treason Trad 7m
19 The Dog's Day Off

The vertical crackline 1m R of LB.

Trad 10m
20 Let's Bail

One move to a BR, then up and swing L around arête to pockets (FH). Crux moves above this (?) up the blank arête lead to a break and another BR. To finish, "let's bail" off to big tree on R to avoid the mank.

Start: The arête 5m L of corner.

FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty., 1993

Trad 10m
20 Bust A Move

Marked BAM. Four BRs and optional nuts to chains (straight up). A LHV was also climbed a month later.

Start: 3m L of arête

FA: G Page, 2004

Mixed trad 10m, 4
17 X (Unknown 2)

Up arête to thin crack. Follow the crack as it widens up a mini-corner to a tree belay. (Safety note: we've been told this tree is now very dodgy - take care!)

Start: Starts 1m L of CH on the arête.

Trad 15m
(Unknown 4)

Shallow orange corner. BRs.

Trad
South East Sunshine Coast Brooyar Green Lane
22 R DH3

2m R of AWITG. Filthy and lichenous. To see any action this route would need a thorough cleaning and bolting. Starts at the obvious undercling then straight up the wall on worsening slopes. Crux at 4.5m.

Trad 6m
15 A walk in the garden

More like wading through compost. Stay away.

Start: Start in 110 degree corner 20 metres right of descent gully.

Trad 10m
17 The Dirty Corner

Not overly dirty, could be okay. 10m R of the descent gully is this ever-steepening naturally-protected corner with an exciting exit.

Trad 8m
16 Inspiration

The seam on downhill side of big tree on descent track. Puke.

FA: Herb Brandmeier

Trad 8m
10 Tests And Titosterone

Probably not good. The crack downhill from the big tree on the descent ramp and below the boulder. Tree belay well back.

FA: Herb Brandmeier

Trad 9m
12 Sweetness And Light

The obvious yellow lichenous crack 2m L of T&T. Tree belay well back.

FA: Herb Brandmeier

Trad 10m
21 Angel Dust

"Big, evil, overhung crack thing". The R-leaning overhung corner to ledge, then up crack to top. A bit grungy.

Trad 15m
19 Uzis On Speed RHV

After the first bolt, move up and right to a #2.5 SLCD at R of horizontal break, then around arete. More natural and FH. R into "pea-pod" then back L.

Mixed trad 18m, 2
21 Uzis On Speed

Left of the crack is a nice orange corner and face, now rebolted with RbBs. Start in the crack corner. Up hard start on gear. Up into beautiful orange corner (wires). Clip bolt on R and step onto the excellent face. Up with #1.5 SLCD and RB to rooflet below black face. Up L onto this huecoed face (cruxy) clipping final RB (don't clip too early) and then up to the top (Chain).

FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty, 1993

Trad 15m
22 Sea Of Fools

A couple of metres left. This climb has a very obvious face up the top covered in hundreds of pockets. Tricky overhung start past a BR onto deceptive slab with smallish SLCD. #4 SLCD in wide break, then up and clip SOT's FH out L with long sling. Now that excellent pocketed wall with a BR and a FH to the top.

FA: Andy Anderson, Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth & Dani Geraghty, 1993

Mixed trad 15m, 4
22 Ship Of Tools

As for SOF to second BR at pocketed wall. Up a move or two then veer L to arête (BR). Up this exposed arête.

FA: Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth & Dani Geraghty, 1993

Mixed trad 15m, 3
23 Hate Crimes

A varied and technical classic. Start up overhanging corner L of SOT. Power up past first FH to break and obvious SLCD slot. Continue past 3 FH's. Difficulty in reading the sequence makes this a good onsight.

FA: Saul Squires, 1993

Mixed trad 15m, 4
25 Sliding Into Cheeseburger Hell

A contrived variant finish to HC. Start as for HC to the third FH (clip with a long sling).Traverse 2m R to FH on face. Continue R, then power up to good hold, clipping a final FH back L. Finish easily.

FA: Saul Squires, 1993

Mixed trad 15m, 3
14 Tom's Turnips

Start just about 1.5m left of 'New Day Rising' in orange corner. Head straight up eventually ending at the anchor of 'New Day Rising'.

The gear is actually quite good, it takes various bits of gear including slings, nuts, hexes and small cams (to 0.5 C4), a set of tri-cams from black to red is very useful for the pockets. The gear at the start is a little finicky to find but it's there.

FFA: Tom Kjaer-Olsen, 17 May 2014

Trad 15m
South East Sunshine Coast Brooyar Point Pure
12 The Forgotten Name RHV

Start as for the original. At second BR, move R to break (gear) then up to BR and top.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Geoff Osbourne & Ben Carter, 2004

Mixed trad 12m, 3
12 Don Juan's Appendix

More forgettable climbing on the access path.

Start: Just right of obvious overhang.

FA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth, 1993

Trad 12m
19 Reid

Slabby climbing on rounded whitish sandstone.

Start: 6m left of LF up slabby corner.

FA: Guy Pearce; Chester & 2nd Guy Pearce, 1990

Mixed trad 15m, 3
22 Figjam

Further around from SE is a set of L-leaning twin seams. Climb the L one into vegetation. The top needs a clean.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, 1990

Trad 8m
23 Techno phobia

Follow Figjams parallel crack until possible to blast straight up for the triangular feature and mantel out. Sinisters anchor to the right. Great holds and gear.

FFA: jjobrien, 2010

Trad 14m
21 DH1

Route or boulder problem, its a fine line.

Start: Right end of ledge

Trad 4m
23 DH2

A variant to a 4 metre route?

Trad 6m
18 Stone Merino

This climb is actually called Stone Merino

FA: Chester & 2nd Rod Keep, 1990

Trad 15m
24 Tight As A Drum

A fearsome-looking short corner perched up in space, but actually pretty fun. Lead up the short lower tier past a BR (long sling) to the ledge where the route is initialled "TD". Up into the overhung corner (two FHs and fixed wire). Lean out and clip bolt, before facing a mega-move R to a jug on the arete. At least the fall is clean! The route was originally done pulling on this bolt at 22 A1 (probably the go for your seconder unless they enjoy prussiking). Straight up the juggy wall above past one FH and a couple of bits of trad.

FFA: Lee & Sam Cujes, 2008

Mixed trad 30m, 5
8 R The Back of the Chimney

You'd have to be bored to climb this one.

Start: Start at back of chimney.

Trad 8m
8 R The Middle of the Chimney

Very little to recommend this climb.

Start: Start in middle of chimney

Trad 8m
20 The Jamb Crack

Yep, drive 4.5 hours away from frog to jam your way up some sandstone...

Trad 15m
22 Big Mouth Short Crack

Doesn't see many ascents, might actually contain okay climbing under all the lichen but nobody can say for sure.

Start: Start 2m left of TJC

Trad 20m
16 I'm Not Lichen It

FA: Gareth Llewellin & John Taylor, 2006

Trad 10m
14 Suddenly Sober

3m L of YHIFOP, starting at rooflet with big flakes and jugs (crux). Clip two rings while moving up on jugs to third ring and good wires. Up to rooflet and fourth ring. Step L around roof and top out. Classic! Doable on RBs only, with a decent runout in the middle; make sure you're solid at the grade if doing this.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Geoff Osborne & Ben Carter, 2004

Mixed trad 20m, 4
17 No More Gaps

FA: Ross Ferguson & Matt Williams, 1999

Trad 10m
18 Unknown

Not Inspiring.

Start: Middle of right-facing wall.

Trad 15m
South East Sunshine Coast Brooyar The Wolf's Lair
17 R Sand In My Pants

Poor quality climbing.

Start: In corner 2m left of 'Awesome Fearsome'

FA: Tom Walsh & Randomir Schmidt, 1998

Trad 15m
21 Sheep Clothing

Stickclip FH then boulder up overhung wall trending right past BR to mini roof and ledge. Thin moves continue up a faint corner past a BR & #1.5 SLCD to finish at chains.

FA: Neil Monteith & Lee Skidmore, 1997

Mixed trad 13m, 3
21 Suitboy

Layback up corner on natural gear to overhung arete. Clip FH and climb up and left to jug on lip. Clip BR and mantle ledge. Up face above to chain.

FA: Neil Monteith & Dan Meyers, 1997

Mixed trad 13m, 2
South East Sunshine Coast Brooyar Intense Aioli Crag
14 Passably Cute Warrior Princesses

The hand/fist crack in the corner just R of the small tree growing at half height. Top belay off solid gum trees

FFA: Daniel Peatey & Rick Helm, Oct 2015

Trad 9m
13 The Red Hulk

The layback flake just R of PCWP. The topout move is a little spicy. Takes red C4's. Belay off large gum trees.

FFA: Rick Helm & Daniel Peatey, Oct 2015

Trad 9m
12 Trad Heathens

The slightly overhung corner/chimney capped by a large boulder on the small outcrop to the right of the previous routes. Sandy, sketchy and harder than it looks.

FFA: Daniel Peatey & Rick Helm, Oct 2015

Trad 6m
South East Sunshine Coast Brooyar ...
14 I bolt boulders

FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham

FA: Zac Trembath-Pitham

Trad 7m
South East Sunshine Coast Glasshouse Mountains Mt Tibrogargan Slider Wall
15 unknown

FA: Geoff Lawrie & Mark Gamble

Trad 30m
14 Monkey Swallows The Universe

Starts at the base of the tree and goes up the arête. After that, head L and follow the obvious seam up to chain. Two bolts then small cams and wires.

Mixed trad 15m, 2
12 Monkey Goes Wild About Heaven

Up onto broad ledge (FH) then go R to arête. Up passing many good stances and four more FH's. Finish as for MSTU with wires in obvious seam to chain.

Start: 5m down R of MSTU.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2004

Mixed trad 20m, 5
South East Sunshine Coast Glasshouse Mountains Mt Tibrogargan Halfway House
21 Cunningly Deceptive

Start: At the black corner about 3m R of where the track angles steeply uphill. Climb the corner past two FH's and a couple of bits of good natural gear to rap station on steep wall.

FFA: Phil Box & Lee Cujes, 2003

Mixed trad 25m, 2
14 The Court Jester p1

Bouldery moves off the deck to good holds. Trend R up obvious ramp/weakness. Negotiate shrubbery to arrive at large triangle ledge. Shared rap station on R end of ledge. The two FH's leading up from here are for Maponus’ second pitch (23).

Trad 15m
17 The Court Jester p2

Continue up corner 3m, step L into next corner and up for 4m. Step L out of corner and climb over short steep bit (crux). Walk easily up slab to find rap station underneath large roof. 30m rap to the terrace.

FFA: Phil Box & Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

Trad 20m
22 R Emu-less

Start: Directly behind the rectolotomy tree. Boulder up over the roof, then up past two FH's on the front of the pillar. Up and over on to the slab (gear on L) then to the anchors on the triangle ledge.

FFA: James Pfrunder, Phil Box & Pat Daly, 2003

Trad 12m
22 Maponus p1
  1. 12m (22) The arching crackline on natural gear. Finishes on the large triangle ledge (with Jester's rap station).

  2. 25m (23) Directly above belay. Two FH's protect a few gut-busting moves on small crimps. After that, head up and through placing gear to pull on to easy terrain. R and up on slab for about 15m to spiky bush ledge which hides rap station. 35m rap to the terrace, or short rap to Dagda anchors, then 25m to ground.

Start: Start: 3m R of 'Gut Punch The Budda'. The first pitch draws the stars.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2003

Trad 12m
18 The Sword In The Stone

Start: At Jester's rap station atop pitch one of the original. Head into corner and up for 3m. Step R for 3m underneath suspended flake (above the 24 section). Up for 4m and finish as for pitch two of original.

FFA: Phil Box & Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

Trad 25m
17 Spooky House

Climb D's corner to the top of corner. Instead of stepping R, step L into another gently overhanging corner, climb through bulge and head straight up 15m looking for SW's anchors. Bad gear in 2nd half on crumbly rock.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

Trad 30m
South East Sunshine Coast Glasshouse Mountains Mt Tibrogargan Clemency Wall
16 Clemency
1 15 35m
2 16 30m
3 14 32m
4 12 35m
5 9 30m
6 11 30m

A historical classic adventure climb of great character up the S.E. corner of Tibro to the R of the orange overhanging wall. Named in memory of John Clements who was Les Wood's climbing partner in England. The hardest climb in the state for its day. Although the line is straight, individual pitches zigzag a bit. The major landmarks are the big groove (pitch 3) and the scrubby terrace at half height. Technical hard moves are isolated, but route finding is difficult, protection poor and some holds suspect, so the leader should be very solid in the grade to avoid an epic. There is no obvious LLR and one can easily wander off route into a thrill zone.

Start: 10m R of 'Rubicon' on dark brown rock, downhill from the track's apex. Marked 'C'.

  1. 35m (15) 10m runout off the deck up blocky slab. A further 10m with a tricky step-left (PR and small SLCD) to R-trending ramp beneath the blocky roofs. Belay on the ramp off gear.

  2. 30m (16) Ascending, traverse 10m R to hollow white flake below bulge (the original aid move complete with PR). Back up the peg before carefully cringing up R to easier ground. Up a ways until you can traverse L to ledge below the huge corner (rings on ledge - 43m rap to ground, 80m rope reaches on stretch).

  3. 32m (14) An excellent pitch. Up initial corner and through small rooflet to continue up into the huge corner. Exit out R and up to rap anchor on tree on 'Clemency' Terrace (aka Halfway House). Walk 20m L along the terrace and up a little hill to the base of a R-trending ramp.

  4. 35m (12) A tricky start that would demolish grade-12 leaders is the key to continuing up remnants of the big groove. Struggle past loose blocks and prickly grass defending good hex placements along the slanting crack R to a stance.

  5. 30m (9) Up and trend L to below final corner capped by large blocks suspended in anti-gravity mode.

  6. 30m (11) This overhanging time bomb is defused by an exciting move L followed by a mellow romp up the rib and ejection into the summit scrub field.

A thousand cuts must now be endured passing through vile scrub to attain sanctuary and clemency (?) on the tourist track.

FA: FA Les Wood & Donn Groom, 1966

Trad 190m, 6
16 Apricots

Start at the bolted belay anchor for the previous route. Directly above the bolted anchor is a nice finger crack. Climb this for about 10m, then move right into the wide chimney-corner and romp up to the Halfway House terrace.

FA: Lee Cujes & Erik Smits, 2006

Trad 28m
22 The Mace

3m L of A. Up past slots to base of short crackline (shrub at base). Up this to clip FH, then pit your tips against some razor crimps to easier ground with FH on bulge. Finish at station as for Alienation.

FA: Phil Box & Lee Skidmore, 2002

Mixed trad 18m, 2
20 Alienation

4m L of C DS. This finely sculpted L-leaning thin crack may alienate those without aliens - small SLCD's are a must. Overcome the crack to gain slab where two FH's point the way to the rap station. Sustained climbing at the grade.

FA: Lee Skidmore & Phil Box, 2002

Mixed trad 18m, 2
19 Divergence

A rope-stretching pitch. Starts directly beneath impressive bright orange corner 60m up. Up 4m to R-facing sickle-corner. Up this to bulge (FH). Steep corner through bulge, then follow LLR up L to join Clemency's second pitch at the PR and white flake. Continue up and then move L to ledge (double rings at base).

FA: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2002

Trad 20m
17 Tested Twisticle (left)

FA: Ben Carter & Gareth Llewellin, 2005

Trad 32m
18 Tested Twisticle (right)

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ben Carter, 2005

Trad 35m
17 Guenevere
1 14 15m
2 17 30m
3 17 45m

Start: 6m L of Lancelot.

A solid multipitch undertaking. Experienced Tibro climbers will enjoy the challenges Guenevere offers.

  1. 15m (14) Nice wall climbing direct to Lancelot's DBB. Runout in the top half. Sling the jug at half height.

  2. 30m (17) A double rack of aliens would reduce anxiety. L off DBB and up nice wall above for 10m to stance. Up R-trending ramp to bulgy steepening. Place gear in R-leaning crack, then up and L with some steep moves to the L side of a spiky bush ledge (which is 20m below the landmark bright orange corner). From ledge, go diagonally R up easy ramp (bad rope drag) for 10m to belay at base of 10m high, black scooped groove.

  3. 45m (17) Carefully up the runout groove. Step L above groove and up slab to exciting chimney. Up this to TB on Clemency Terrace. Walk L 5m and rap from Clemency's tree-anchor (2x 50m raps). Alternatively, the top of Tibro can be attained by the last three pitches of Clemency.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Phil Box & Samantha Coles, 2003

Trad 90m, 3
18 Lancelot
1 14 20m
2 16 30m
3 18 25m
4 15 15m

Start 6m R of Guenevere. Marked 'L'. Originally graded 7! Not many routes get their grade more than doubled between one guidebook and the next.

  1. 20m (14) - Up for 10m to first vegetated ledge. If you want to belay here, walk to far left of this ledge to find a good DBB, otherwise link this pitch with the next (better).

  2. 30m (16) - Walk all the way back to the right end of the belay ledge. Up with some difficulty to a bowl. Keep climbing up and right aiming for the diagonal vegetated ledge above. Clip peg before last headwall and climb up this to base of ledge. Good DBB.

  3. 25m (18) - Climb up onto block on far right of ledge and climb straight up slab to a nice, very slabby right-facing corner. Clip peg and traverse right under blocks to another peg. Climb straight up the wall above (crux) with scant protection to slab. Up and right to easy slab which ends in an easy corner and peg belay.

  4. 15m (15) - Straight up corner with good pro to belay at base of pitch 7 of Dreadnought (left-facing corner crack). To reach the Halfway House area and the rap tree on Clemency Terrace, traverse 30-40m left on slabby ground. Alternatively, the top of Tibro can be attained by continuing up Dreadnought.

FA: Ken Grimes, Peter Kennedy & Eric Hewett, 1966

Trad 90m, 4

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