Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Queens Bay Octopus Boulders | |||||
V0 | ★★ Octopus 1
| 4m | |||
V0 | ★★ Octopus 2
| 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Octopus 2 and 3/4 (sit start)
| 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Octopus 3
| 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Around Big Octopus
| ||||
V1 | ★★ Octopus Corridor Crack
Standing start on RHS of big octopus as looking at from within gap between boulders | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Octopus 4
| 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Octopus 5
| 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Around the Little Octopus
| ||||
V4 | ★ Who Eats Octopus
| ||||
V7 | ★★★ Mollusc Crawl
Start on car park side of Molluscing around bouldering on right hand side pull and left good sloper. climbs to the left through excellent pocket and all the way around the left to the good rail and then up to easy top out. Feet to avoid barnecles and hard residue after the start. FA: | 4m | |||
Queens Bay Broken Glass Boulders | |||||
V0- | Reflector
| 4m | |||
VB | Looking Glass
There is a water tap just to the right of this climb. Tree totally in... | 4m | |||
VB | Mirror
Tree totally in... | 4m | |||
VB- | Windows
Tree totally in... | 4m | |||
Queens Bay Sandy Boulders | |||||
VB | ★ The Wiley Snail
From the 'ITWE' sit start move left up the rail and through pockets to op out. FA: @wokket, 2021 | ||||
V0 | ★ Is this Wet Enough
Sit start at big solid flake, traverse around boulder avoiding rail above and come into the one move chimney from a low angle, chimney up and out. FA: AfricaDan | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Cocaine and Sangria
Sit start with both feet and one hand in crack, other hand on undercling. Up trending left to top out over left arete. FA: @wokket, 2021 | ||||
V0- | ★ Freshly Grated Palm-esan
Sit start right hand jug, left hand arete. Up, bridge the chimney and continue to top out up ramp. FA: @wokket, 2021 | ||||
Queens Bay The Overhangs | |||||
V4 | ★★ Central railways
Sit start at base of obvious rail, traverse right up rail and mantle out to finish. | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★★ Concerned Susan
Start on edges in middle of face right in front of concerning stake sticking out of the ground. Traverse left along small edges to rail then finish up rail to a massive jug and cool mantle. FA: Steve Baskerville | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ The Cave
Sit start on pockets at the back of the cave. Traverse out of the cave then some difficult moves to get out of the cave to the lip of the boulder. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Cave left variant finish
As for the cave, avoid the easy holds to the right on the lip, up to the crescent crimp then up left. | 4m | |||
V1 | ★★ Jugs
Seated start, traversing up through jugs. | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Time for a fish & chip lunch
Stand start. | 2m | |||
V4 | ★★ Glass Jugs
Sit start in hueco, head straight up on big undercling and good edges to finish in some slightly glassy jugs at lip. | 4m | |||
V1 | ★★ Good Kind of Crumble
Sit start in big pocket then head right and up on good holds. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Salt Spray
Sit start outside the cave both hands on the left side pull then straight up through nice crimps FA: 18 Sep 2020 | 2m | |||
Coral Bay | |||||
V0 | ★ 2
Sit start and up. Any number of variations. All fun | ||||
V6 | Fat Boy Nick
| ||||
V7 | ★★ Fat Boy Steve
Start way left and traverse all the way to join "Police State". FA: Nick Larsen | ||||
V4 | ★ Police State
Start on the two slopers and move R to arête. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
V8 | ★ Nick's Stolen Roof
Start at the base of the roof on a big jug and out to the big jug on lip. Drop off here - though it could be linked into "Nick's Stolen Roof Top". FA: Nick Larsen | ||||
V4 | ★ Nick's Stolen Roof Top
Starts or continues on from where "Nick's Stolen Roof" finishes. From the jug and up. Be very careful of the rock up high. | ||||
V5 | ★★ Pockets
Sit start and up via big moves to the break. Drop off from there. Does not top out. Can also be done as a stand start, see "Pockets (stand start)". FA: Nick Larsen | ||||
Pockets (stand start)
"Pockets" can also be done as a stand start. FA: Nathan | |||||
V7 | ★★ Dark Alley
Cool blank arête deep in amongst the boulders. FA: Brendon Abernathy | ||||
V2 | ★★★ Steep Wall
Steep wall with cool feature. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
V0 | ★★ Growler
| ||||
V2 | ★ Mantle
Start low and up to tricky mantle. FA: Cuan | ||||
V2 | ★★ Classic Traverse
Start at the very back of the boulder and traverse R around the boulder, with a pumpy (and sometimes a little grainy) finish. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
Horseshoe Bay North Side Beach Side | |||||
V6 | ★ Fat Girls & Beef
Start two hands on obvious rail then straight up on bad feet and small edges. | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★ King of the North
Sit start on obvious undercling (stack pads if necessary), big move to lip then mantle. FA: Steve Baskerville | 3m | |||
V2 | King of the North (stand start)
Stand start on big jug at lip of overhang then straight up. FA: Steve Baskerville | 3m | |||
V9 | ★ Beefy Americano
Sit start in big groove and then make your way out of the overhang on cool groove features and then some very small holds at the lip. Looks possible but who knows. FA: Spenser Tang-Smith, Sep 2023 | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★ Sultans of Ming
Sit start in slopey hue then straight up. FA: Dan Gordon, Jul 2015 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★★ A Salty Groove
Sit start way at the back of the groove in pockets then head up and out to finish up the right hand arête. FA: Dan the Man | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ It's a Fallacy
Sit start on low boulder, stand and work over right edge to finish with slab like problem FA: Michael Birtill, 12 Jul 2016 | 3m | |||
Horseshoe Bay North Side Warm-up Boulder | |||||
V0 | 4
The arête ("3") can also be done as a nice stand start and mantle. | 2m | |||
V5 | ★ Danabus
Left of "1". Sit start, starting on a two hand pinch moving diagonally up R through problems "1" and "2". Finishing up the juggy arete with a mantle. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ 1
A classic sit start. | 3m | |||
V6 | 2
A pumpy traverse. Sit start and traversing right on a series of slopey features finishing on the obvious juggy arête on the opposite side of the boulder, the start of the problem. FA: Nick Larsen | ||||
V6/7 | 3
Starting on the same arête as "2" finishes on. This sit start problem starts low with a small chockstone for feet; pull down on with two desperate sloper sidepulls and throw for the big jug. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
V2 | Lotion on it's skin
Start with a double undercling and smear feet. Go straight up. | 2m | |||
V0 | Bum hug
Starting on the obvious hold. The reward for getting the 'top' is a rock feature that seems to be perfectly carved out for sitting, like a bum hug! | 2m | |||
Horseshoe Bay North Side Wall of Certain Death | |||||
V7 | 6ft Under
Start sitting below the big flake on two tiny crimps. Pull on and throw for jug. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
V5 | ★★ Afterlife
Start at the big jugs at the base of the little corner. Blast out to the arête and pocket and up the high wall. FA: Spenser Tang Smith | ||||
V1 | ★★ Appointment With Death
Starting on the upper level pull out onto the steep wall and up big jugs. A dangerous problem. | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★★ Wall of Certain Death
As classic as they come. Very high and scary. Up the arête to the steep wall and out the overhang on amazing jugs to a lip crux. Bring lots of pads and be aware that if you fall off this problem you could be seriously hurt. FA: Steve Baskerville | 6m | |||
V2 | ★ Horny Horns
Standing start using horn and up via next horn to crumbly sslopers. Bad landing. | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ Thug Life
Standing start | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Thug Life (sit start)
Sit start and up the wall. Be careful of the rock up high. | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ Underbelly
Sit start and then traverse R staying low to finish on the RH end of the big flake. FA: Steve Baskerville | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Moisture Infused
Standing start. Crimps/edge up to high under cling / pinch then continue to top out. FA: Luen Warneke, 8 Sep 2018 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Moisture Infused (sit start)
The sit start of "Moisture Infused". On edges and up to a pitch which turns into an underclig. FA: Luen Warneke, 8 Sep 2018 | 5m | |||
V2 | ★ An Inconvenient Struth
Standing start. Undercling up to not so good rock. | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ An Inconvenient Struth (sit start)
Sit start and up "An Inconvenient Struth" | 5m | |||
Horseshoe Bay North Side Pockets Boulder | |||||
V4 | Penumbra
FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 1 Jan 2021 | ||||
Horseshoe Bay North Side Jump Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Classic Wall
Up the obvious cool features. A nice under cling mid way up. | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Vague Seam
FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 8 Jun 2018 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Come Out & Play
A classic arête. A high ball with bad landing. Start with fridge move, work way out right on corner and up slightly left. | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★★ Pandora's Boxjump
Grab edge and jump. Up via bad slopers. FA: Spenser Tang-Smith, Sep 2023 | ||||
V0 | ★ 2
A fun high problem. | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ 3
Sit start and desperate mantle. | ||||
V1 | What can I say except you're welcome
Layback from the crack. | 3m | |||
V0 | Left Cheek
Stand start up the crack - layback. Another variant. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Right Cheek
Sit start. Campus up via good holds (no feet at the start). Plenty of other variants (V0 – V4). Lots of short sit starts, traverses and eliminates. | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Chip That Won't Dip
Traverse from left to right. Ending at the boulders easiest descent route. | 4m | |||
Horseshoe Bay North Side Bat Cave | |||||
V7 | ★★ Kingdra
Start on double underclings, use right crimp and left pinch to reach better holds. Located 10m left of the roof. FA: Callum Mather | ||||
V7 | ★★ Kendra's Roof Short
Classic roof climbing following the obvious line. Starting at slopers at back middle then traverse left to crux move behind head and back across right, finishing on the mushroom. A big 'U' shaped climb. FA: Spenser Tang Smith | ||||
V5 | ★★ Moonbo Roof
Original problem. Start at left side back slopers and move to a sloper behind head. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
V5 | Moonbo Roof variant
Start a little left of "Moonbo Roof" on edges. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
V9/10 | ★★★ Kendra's Roof
The extension to "Kendra's Roof", continuing past the mushroom via a roof crux and then up a desperate slab above the terrifying drop away landing. Set: Spenser Tang Smith FFA: Andy Lampard, Jul 2016 | ||||
Horseshoe Bay North Side Voodoo Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Nurofen
| 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Voodoo
| 4m | |||
V1 | ★★ Lime
Start in the crack in a layback, work your way up L following the crackline. The crux is in the middle. You can sit start this one. | 4m | |||
V0 | Anal Beads
Starting a few metres right of "Lime", this highball is an easy but daunting climb near the top. | 8m | |||
V1 | Fruit Picker
| ||||
Horseshoe Bay North Side Big Ass Boulder | |||||
Big Ass
| |||||
V0+ | ★ Butter Bin Chicken
Start at white spray paint arrows. Up right to top of large rock via good juggy holds. | 4m | |||
Horseshoe Bay North Side Gilded Gadfly | |||||
V0 | Easy as 1
| 2m | |||
V0 | Easy as 2
| 2m | |||
V0 | Easy as 3
| 2m | |||
V3 | ★ Gilded Gadfly
| 2m | |||
Horseshoe Bay South Side Seaside Slopers | |||||
V3 | ★ Rubber left behind
Starting on the slopey holds of "Welcome to Barbados (low start)", head straight up aret then move right to stay on left arête | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Welcome to Barbados
Sit start. | 6m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Welcome to Barbados (low start)
Start extra low on slopey hueco. Hard start moves right into the sit start of "WTB". FA: Steve Baskerville | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★★ Welcome to Barbados (stand start)
Stand start on good horn, straight up. A classic steep wall. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ On a Razors Edge
Stand start on good holds on right hand arete (facing out to sea), then up then traverse lip of boulder to end up mantling on other side of boulder. Slightly contrived but fun. | 2m | |||
V0 | ★★ Super Pumpy (high start)
High wall start of "Super Pumpy", starting from jugs. FA: Lee Cujes |