Routes as alpine in Bugaboos

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Showing all 35 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Bugaboo Spire
5.8 Northeast Ridge Alpine 600m
5.6 Kain Route

FA: Conrad Kain

Alpine 450m
Howser Spire Massif North Howser Tower
5.8 A2 V North-Northwest Face

FA: Campbell, Knowler & Zvemgrowski, 1967

Alpine 800m
5.7 A2 V Northwest Buttress

FA: Beckey & Greenwood, 1963

Alpine 1000m
5.12 Eye of Providence

FA: Mike Verwey & Jon Simms, 2012

Alpine 910m, 34
5.11d A2 All Along the Watchtower

FA: Ward Robinson & Jim Walseth, 1981

FFA: Topher Donahue & Kennan Harvey, 1996

Alpine 910m, 34
5.12+ Armageddon

FA: Mike Pennings & Jonathon Copp, 1999

FFA: Jesse Huey & Maury Birdwell, 2016

Alpine 1100m, 34
5.9 A3 VI Warrior

FA: Hugh Burton & Steve Sutton, 1973

Alpine 910m, 34
5.9 A3 VI Young Warrior

FA: Dave Russel & Chris Harkness, 2006

Alpine 910m
5.10d VI Dodging Deanna

FA: Nathan Macdonald & Tony Mclane, Jul 2014

Alpine 850m, 18
5.12- A1 Spicy Red Beans and Rice

FA: Cameron Tague & Eric Greene, 1997

5.11- VI The Seventh Rifle

FA: Chris Jones, Galen Rowell & Tony Qamar, 1971

Alpine 910m, 30
5.11a VI Under Fire

Link up of 'The Shooting Gallery', '7th Rifle' and 'Young Men on Fire'

Alpine 850m
5.10 A2+ VI The Shooting Gallery

FA: George & Synnott, 1971

Alpine 34
5.11- A4 VI Young Men on Fire

FA: Gore & Hollinger, 1994

Alpine 34
5.11 A2 VI Southwest Face

FA: Jones, Simpson & Woodcock, 1970

Alpine 20
5.6 III South Ridge

FA: Kain, Frind, MacCarthy & Vincent, 1916

Alpine 200m
5.4 III North Ridge

FA: Austin, Bernays, McCarthy & Rupley, 1955

Alpine 5
5.10 A3+ V Fear and Desire

FA: Davis & Offenbacher, 1999

Alpine 9
5.9 A2 V Chocolate Fudge Brownie

FA: Isaac & Webster, 1999

Alpine 10
5.11+ Voodoo Chile

FA: Alik Berg & Uisdean Hawthorn, Aug 2020

Alpine 500m
5.11 C2 The Simulator

FA: Dylan Johnson & Chad Kellogg, 2010

Alpine 19
5.11+ Hey Kool-Aid!

FA: Bruce Miller & Chris Weidner, 2005

Howser Spire Massif South Howser Tower
5.10a Beckey-Chouinard

This is a Bugaboos mega-classic that draws climbers from around the world and for obvious reasons. It's more than 2000' tall and has pitch after pitch of 5.8 and 5.9 climbing with short sections of 5.10 thrown in here and there for good measure. The elegant line follows a large buttress that soars up the full height of the west face. This is a full value route with excellent climbing, great position and spectacular views. Not to be missed.

  1. From a slab on the right side of the ridge climb up cracks and flakes to the ridge crest and belay. (5.5)

  2. Continue up the ridge crest and belay. (5.5)

  3. Keep climbing the crest until it steepens then follow cracks and grooves to the left of the crest to a belay ledge. (5.7)

  4. Climb just to the right of the crest following a finger and hand crack through a small bulge (5.10-) continue up to a small ledge and belay.

  5. Follow cracks just to the left of the ridge to easy ground. Continue up a flake and chimney to the left of the crest and belay on a sloping ledge. (5.8)

  6. Traverse right on an handrail to a large left facing dihedral. Climb up the dihedral and belay in a little alcove behind a jagged block. (5.8)

  7. Continue up the dihedral to a crack that leads to a large ledge covered with scree. (5.8)

  8. Climb up the scree ledge to its upper end and belay at a bivy site.

  9. Climb a chimney and follow cracks through blocks, belay near the bottom of a steep wall. (5.6)

  10. To the left follow a short but difficult crack to a ledge, traverse right to some opposing dihedrals and climb the right dihedral to a large flat ledge. (5.8)

  11. This is the start of the upper headwall pitches, referred to as the Great White Headwall. On the left side of the ledge climb a strenuous hand and fist crack up a right facing corner to a ledge. Continue up a another crack in a left facing corner till you are able to climb out left onto a steep face to a belay ledge out left. (5.10)

  12. Climb up above the belay and make a balance move right into a corner. Follow the corner past some blocks and a squeeze that's hard but can be done with a pack on. Belay at the base of a gully. (5.10)

  13. Climb up the gully to where it steepens turning into a corner. Follow the second crack on the left wall and belay at the bottom of a right facing corner. (5.9)

  14. Follow the long right facing dihedral to a two pin anchor in a small notch. (5.8)

  15. This is the crux pitch which can be aided but I didn't think it felt to hard. Traverse out left on thin holds and make a difficult move around the arete. Continue up an easy gully to its top and belay. The traverse can also be tensioned at A0. (5.10+ or A0)

From the top of the Gully make one rappel off a nest of slings and follow fourth and easy fifth class terrain to the true summit. To descend find the first rap anchor to the east of the summit and make 6 double rope rappels to the glacier. There are numerous rap anchors on the east face so keep an eye out and make sure your ropes reach to the glacier below the bergshrund on the last rap before you commit to it. Some parties put in a V-thread because their ropes didn't reach.

Alpine 1100m, 22
Snowpatch Spire
5.8 The Snowpatch Route Alpine 600m
5.11a Sunshine Crack

FA: Alex Lowe & S Scott

Alpine 370m
5.9 surfs up Alpine 300m
Pigeon Spire
5.4 Pigeon Toe Alpine 90m
5.4 West Ridge Alpine 500m
Crescent Spire
5.10- McTech Arete

Bolted anchors, gear for the pitches

Alpine 180m, 6
5.10b Paddle Flake Alpine 220m
5.10a Surprisingly Subsevere Alpine 6
Eastern Spires Eastpost Spire
5.10- Classic Grit Alpine 220m
Crescent Towers
5.7 II Ears Between Alpine
Lost Feather Pinnacle
5.11 A2 IV Back At Bob’s

Named in memory of Bob Enagonio of Canmore, Alberta who perished on a ski traverse from Rogers Pass to the Bugaboos in May 2005.

FA: Duncan Burke & Chris Weidner, 2005

Alpine 7

Showing all 35 routes.

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