Routes as sport in Vancouver Island

Obvious line following the overlap

This is the second route, climber's right of Going Solo, on Dirt Stamp Wall. Short and crimpy for the grade.

The route to the right of the dead pine tree in the middle of the cliff. The easiest route on the wall and a good warm up. The crux is the final couple moves before the anchor.

Has top anchor hooks, for lowering only.

Follow the black streak directly up and slightly left, staying left of bolt line. We should have named this one bolt ladder! A little miscommunication between myself and my bolting partner resulted in the abundance of bolts. A super great climb to learn to lead.

Two routes left of You Enjoy Myself. Up slightly overhanging wall to anchors in roof using sidepulls midway. Fixed draws

First climb on climbers left on Dirt Stamp Wall. Short and crimpy for the grade. After putting in the anchors and running out of battery power for the drill, Seanathon decided to still send the route sans bolts. (Free Solo)

Props to Crystal for helping us clean this route and being the inspiration for the name of the climb.

Big horizonaltal crack far right undercling to two crimps bump up to a jug. Dwarf tree at base named buddy first juggy flake is loose try not to pull too hard on it as its before the first bolt and a fall could be catastrophic. ORIGINAL GRADE 5.8 Lost holds regraded to 5.10 spring 2021

Start up the chimney, in front of the large fir tree.

Off-width route most of its length. Then a nice ledge to relax before finishing the route.

Has top anchor hooks, for lowering only.

Leftmost route on the main wall. Crux coming off the treed ledge and around the bulge.

Immediately left of You Enjoy Myself. Starts up slabby rock and into steep corner. Continue up to anchors in roof, beside a stalactite. Fixed draws.

A Nanaimo classic. Follow thin edges and pockets up the center of the steep slab.

The chimney route starting in the large crack between the spire and adjacent wall. Polished rock.

A really neat route that has big huecos on it from water runoff.

Originally a run out trad route, now bolted. Follow the broken crack up to a cedar tree mid route. Feel free to use the tree, the FA did.

Some nice jugs to start on almost vertical wall before a slab finish.

Climb up to then above the large pocket and onto good ledges above.

Start on the small pillar and move up the off vertical wall, balancy and thin with just enough crimpers to make it go. A couple no hands rests in the middle.

Start at the base of the bulging slab -- a couple of shared bolts with 10c to the left.

Fun climbing on some good holds -- nothing tricky, but the sun can be in your eyes at certain times of the day. Two rap-rings for anchors at the top.

Shares the first bolt with god is AFK. Line going left of that bolt

Up the wide crack to the right of the large detached pillar.

Start up a series of blocks into an alcove, then head up the steep strenuous face above. Use a runner on the oddly located third bolt to reduce rope drag.

Fun jugs lead to a left traversing roof move.

The leftmost bolted route on the main wall. A definitive crux at the bulge.

A couple cool roofs and a thin area.

No route typifies the pebble pinching Sunny Side conglomerate quite like this one.

Has top anchor hooks, for lowering only.

Could it be the best 5.10 at Horne? A classic limestone tufa climb.

Starts up the arete then goes left through a large pocket and up the face. Often wet, the last route to dry at the crag. Scrambling up the dirt slope on the left at the start bypasses the crux.

This climb starts climbers right of Dirt Stamp 5.8. If you do not have a long reach, then the first crux starts right off the ground while getting to the right hand jug (right of the first bolt). The crux continues until you clip the second draw and get over the first bulge. You then follow the crack system top the top of the wall.

A good warm up, goes up the face on the big detached pillar.

Has top anchor hooks, for lowering only.

This route can be accessed by taking the right fork on the approach trail or from the Dirt Stamp Wall via the fixed line down to the Karate Kid Wall. Starts on black slabby rock, trend left to a bulge, then climb the thin crack up to the first set of anchors. Or climb past them and clip the Eight Litre Buckets’s anchors to get to the top of Dirt Stamp Wall.

Starts up The Waterspout, moving right after first bolt and heading up the right side of the pillar. Fixed draws.

Strenuous moves to the second bolt, then 10- the rest of the way. A direct start is more challenging, but many traverse in from the right at the start.

an easy first lead

Follows a fun flake system up the face, then a good rest ledge before the strenuous crux just below the anchor.

Has top anchor hooks, for lowering only.

Rescrubbed Aug 2021

Leftmost route on Pooh Wall. Generously bolted for newer leaders.

Has top anchor hooks, for lowering only.

The obvious dihedral left of Sendero.

Starts on jugs to the right of Wax On. At the second bolt make a difficult move up and right, to the crack system under the overhang, clip the 3rd bolt and make some fun moves gets you through the overhang. You will now be on the ledge and about to start the technical crux before topping out.

Retro bolted climb. Like the name says, there is one crux move at 5.10c. A fun route none the less.

Found out this route was originally called "The Bat 5.10d" FA by Julian Mclean. It only had one bolt and no anchors.

This is a Horne Lake classic. Now sports midway rap anchors on the second pitch, so is possible to do it as 3 pitches. Originally the second pitch was a full 40-45m from the first pitch anchors to the top, needing 2 ropes to rappel. Do it! 1st pitch 5.10b: a pitch that traverse right up to the anchors. 2nd pitch 5.11b: Techy face climbing. 2nd half/3rd pitch 10d: Awesome climbing over a bulge on chert bands, spicy bolting.

One of the best 5.11 face-climb pitches ever

Follows the left arete of the big slab on the north wall of the grotto.

Shares the same first bolt as Lineage. Route that goes right from that bolt

One of the finest and most popular 11’s in Nanaimo. Climb a series of vertical and horizontal edges up the black wall to a ledge, then finish with balancy moves to the anchor.

Rescrubbed Sept/21

Recently retro bolted (2020) with new gluein hardware, Easy climbing to the 3'd bolt, then Wham Bam crux moves!

You access this climb from the big anchor ledge of Karate Kid Wall. It begins above and to the right of the anchors of Wax Off 5.11b. It is the first climb to get to the highest point of the Glen Lake Crags. It can be accessed as a second pitch from any of the Karate Kid Wall climbs.

Sport mixed

Follows the left arete of the big vertical face.

Rescrubbed June 2021.

The rightmost climb on Powerline Wall. Bouldery and reachy start. Thin crimps near the top.

The leftmost bolt line on the wall, traverses left to right to avoid the overhang above.

Rightmost route on Trump Wall. Traverse from right to left off the big boulder on finger and foot ledges, then follow the flake features straight up to the anchor.

Up a short slab the onto a thin seam feature, and then climb through the namesake hole with a small dogwood tree growing out of it. Two cruxes, one at the 5th bolt and another reachy move just before the finish.

Has top anchor hooks, for lowering only.

next to text book slab starting at the water seepage,

Starts with small roof, into a traversing crack moving left, then a larger overhanging roof to finish.

Rescrubbed July 2021.