Routes as trad in Legoland

A face climb up the thinning crack on the north-east side of an isolated boulder. The boulder is a couple of metres left of the main track, half way between the Hog Wall track and the northern entrance to the Atrium.

A short wall and crack on balanced boulders visible behind Silver Spoon, 15m off the path.

The finger then fist crack 4m right of Pasadena, on the same boulder.

Cheap, nasty and totally worthless. The seam and crack on the steep side of the passage into the atrium, opposite 'California Dreaming'. Protect with cams in the horizontal break.

One of the better, if typically short, cracks at 'Legoland'. The obvious crack in the right (western) wall of the passage into the atrium. Walk right and scramble to descend.

Near the California Dreaming passage is a corner with a leftward leaning crack. Step off the boulder and climb the crack to a tree belay as for California Dreaming.

A good trad pitch on perfect rock with ample protection and amazing movement.

Frees the old aid climb "Information".

1. Start up the off width corner, 'Oleo' and then traverse left along the finger crack that trends slightly downwards. Perfect gear all along the crack although hard to place on lead in many places so running out the cruxes is the way to go. Technical movement on bad feet and flaring, slopey finger locks along almost the whole route is the name of the game. Finish at the far left arête and do the second pitch from there.

2. From the far left arete, continue to follow the rising crack traverse to the far left of this wall and top out to the summit from there. Technical, balancey movement for the grade and good small cams for protection. Trad belays.

Opposite the Empty Step slab a thin crack leads to a ledge. Slab and mantle past a bolt to the top. Bouldery crux may make for a tricky onsight. First couple of ascents used small wires, BD3-5. Take cams, BD0.3-1 to belay off at the top. Scramble down the back to get off.

The best climb at 'Legoland'. The obvious rightward diagonal crack on the face right of Pas de Deux. Move off left to belay at the Pas de Deux anchor.

As for Easy Wind and keep heading right under the overlap. A very good continuation in the same style.

Originally a stick and RP aid problem up the left leaning crack which joins 'Easy Wind'. It is now free with the aid of a chipped foothold, but the bouldery start is still protected in the same manner.

Walk up the rather slick slab. Start: opposite 'Rentokill Surprise'.

The slab right of 'Ace High'.

Right of 'Running Flush' there is a slot down in between the large boulders, through a small hole that puts you in a courtyard platform in the middle of the cluster of boulders. On the right side (facing the valley) in the open courtyard you will find a short, overhanging off width crack. Take a 3, 4, 5 and 6 Camelot to protect. Trad belay and easy walk off. Feisty little number!

The chimney between the slab block and the back of poachers forms a nice start to Skyline

On the uphill side of the northernmost boulder is an enjoyable brushed wall with a high bolt.

A short, sharp, thin tips crack. Difficulty dependent on finger size.

In the open courtyard inside the cave complex before scrambling up to ' Stepping Out'. On the southern side of the open courtyard. Bolts and gear up the wall and huge hanging boulder to a trad belay on top.

Scramble up and start from the top of the boulder that creates the halfway ledge on the left side of the route. Belaying from the ground level of the cave is best. Place a low cam and then lean out to clip the bolt, pull out onto the face and hard, technical crimping out to the right leads to a delicate slab to the top.

The direct start past one bolt from the ground level is now an open project - all yours if you want it!

A short, pleasant escape route from the top of the 'Famous Redheads' boulder. Up the slab with one bolt. Belay on gear.

Starts 10 metres right of 'Forbidden Fruits', on the opposite side of the same boulder. Step across the gap, up the twin cracks, then left up the leftwards slanting off-width cum chimney. A large cam increases confidence.

The clean cut chimney in the corner halfway between 'Motown' and 'Technocrat'. Well protected with tubes and larger cams.

Lovely flake/overlap with underclings and laybacks. Located directly downhill from ‘Crazy Mama’, but before ‘Goose Step’.

The other side of the Duplo flake. Start and slab finish are the same.

The hand crack in a slabby stepped buttress. From 'Crazy Mama' walk downhill and right (facing the valley) along the base of a broken buttress for about 50 metres.

Start: in the open cave facing the valley, at the left end of the sector. Climb the crack which is formed by a slab and the roof.

The classic off-width at the left end of the wall.

Start five metres right of Inside Straight at a crack and corner, initially overhanging. Up the crack for about five metres until an awkward move can be made to clip a bolt on the left wall. Continue leftwards up the wall (crux) to a ledge. Move up to a short crack on the left then up to a horizontal break and easily to the top.

Start as for 'Games on the Freeway'. Much better and more direct than the original. Up the crack to the little saddle then left up the slight groove and arete with "subtle" RP placements.

A crack and corner with a hard start. Up the crack and corner, descend into the chimney and finish as for 'Kid's Stuff'. First climbed in two pitches.

From back when kids were tough. The horrendous chimney five metres right of 'Child's Play', and just left of 'Leaning Tower', originally done in two pitches.

An enjoyable start but poorly protected at the top.

Good, sustained face climbing. Start on the arete 5m right and around the corner from 'Leaning Tower'. Climb the wall past two bolts to a jug-flake. Up the flake and arete to the top.

The imposing off-width corner, just right of 'Flying Legal', which overhangs at the top.

The mossy crack a few metres right of 'Manic Depression'. Done in two pitches.

Step off a boulder just left of 'Hog Wall' proper and clip the first bolt, then up the face and crack past another bolt. Trad belay.

The chimney above the path between 'Pigs on the Wing' and 'Swine Fever'.

The left-hand line on the metallic 'Hog Wall'. A bouldery start, then hard moves past a bolt followed by easier climbing past another to the top. Trad belay.

Good granite wall climbing up the central line on 'Hog Wall'. Up the brushed wall past two bolts. Trad belay.

No ethics police, but plenty of bolts! Run it out up the wall two metres right of 'Porky Boys' past three bolts. Trad belay.

Up the right-hand cleaned strip on 'Hog Wall', clipping a bolt. Trad belay.

A leftwards leaning fist-and-wider crack. From 'Leaning Tower' walk downhill and slightly left (as you face the valley) for 20m, then zig back right for 20m.

On the undercut boulder 120 metres directly downhill from 'Leaning Tower', among a group of isolated boulders. Climb the crack on the right.

On a boulder left of Freewheeling. Climb the wall traversing right to the top.

The obvious curving chimney at the left end of the 'Elephant Special' outcrop. Takes the chimney and crack in its right wall.

"A cold kind of bitch." The strenuous off-width in the corner five metres right of 'Half Moon Chimney'.

Downhill and right from 'White Witch' is the initially overhanging crack.

Nice, clean family fun. Starts well above the finish of 'Shag Alley', taking a small rightwards leaning flake; step right to a thin crack and up.

The slab with an overlap and some good holds, five metres right of the latter part of 'The Elephant Special'.

Impressive. The fine diagonal crackline on the steep concave face, originally climbed mostly with aid. The free version uses the corner on the right.

Start: on the northernmost substantial boulder of the group, facing 'Legoland'.

Start 20 metres right and downhill from 'Freebird'. Climb the short crack which leans left for the first two metres.

At the same level as 'Freebird', about 100 metres south (towards 'Tower Rocks'). Off the boulder and up the overhanging hand crack.

The offwidth left of Powder Finger.

On the side facing the small valley, about 30 metres right of 'Recumbency'. The thin finger crack with a wall start.