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Routes as trad in Mt Greenly

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Showing all 44 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Car parks
10 Dodgy Gardens!!

Prominent crack, the first part is the trickiest, other than that an easy climb with plenty of holds but has poor pro.

FA: Jessica Lacorte

Trad 12m
14 Lofty Heights

2 m right of "Dodgy Gardens"

FA: Jessica Lacorte

Trad 12m
17 Jenda Fluid Jesse

2m right of "Lofty Heights" The crux is the blank wall with good hands, some traversing and maneuvering here is needed.

FA: Jessica Lacorte

TradProject 12m
16 Coffin Cheater

Finger/hand crack 6m L of Melting in the Sun

FA: Paul Badenoch, 8 Jan 2016

Trad 10m
18 Onshore

2m right of Coffin Cheater Slabby, crimpy holds to begin

FA: Ty George, 17 Nov 2017

Trad 10m
14 Melting in the Sun

Gymnastic wide crack 3m L of Oyster Pie.

FA: Paul Badenoch & Vicki Kavanagh, 8 Jan 2016

Trad 10m
6 Oyster Pie

Prominent R-facing corner on west side of south end of ridge (towards L end of first crag of reasonable size). 5 mins walk from carpark (250m).

FA: Paul Badenoch & Vicki Kavanagh, 8 Jan 2016

Trad 10m
4 Guns......Get Down!

4 m right of Oyter Pie, several different routes can be taken. Lots of holds, great for beginner leading.

Trad 10m
20 Dr Jones

4 m right of 'Guns Get Down', Narrow crack

Trad 6m
Northern group Western Side
9 Stank

The right hand line on the very first prominent buttress on the NW ridge. Up the slab as you discover hidden jugs, semi-mantle top out.

FFA: Kelly Thorpe (solo), Nov 2016

Trad 12m
5 Spike

4m right of stank, wide crack, into slabby bum faces to mantle top out. Easy fun

FFA: Kelly Thorpe & Sarah Hayes, Feb 2017

Trad 13m
5 Morning Hayes

1m right of spike, up blocky face into spike at the top

FFA: Kelly Thorpe & Sarah Hayes, Feb 2017

Trad 13m
12 Straight hander

2m Right of 'Morning Hayes'. Up face and slab with small good edges, easy finish

FFA: Kelly Thorpe, Feb 2017

Trad 12m
9 Howling Onshore Monkey

Small buttress 20m right (South) of Straight Hander. Start up large jam crack, into slab offwidth and easy to top. Fun and easy entry into trad for beginners

FFA: Kelly Thorpe & Andre Pearson, Dec 2017

Trad 12m
15 The Birds and the Bees

This climb is on the large buttress to the right of the Green Room and descent gully. Delicately up then L (optional direct start with good moves but limited pro) to gain the straight hand crack. Optional short crack in summit boulder to finish (recommended).

FFA: Paul Badenoch & Vicki Kavanagh, 6 Jul 2016

Trad 18m
16 Wind in My Heart

Start at short LH corner 2m R of The Birds and the Bees. Climb to the top of the thin layback seam, traverse left into alcove under large perched block. Layback or jam perched block and up overhanging crack in summit boulder. Excellent quality and solid for the grade!

FFA: Paul Badenoch & Vicki Kavanagh, 8 Jul 2016

Trad 18m
12 Choccy bar crack

Crack and layback 12m left of The Green Room. Layback start flake and mantle ledge. Up twin cracks with a funky exit out of the right crack.

FFA: Kelly Thorpe & James Thorpe, Nov 2016

Trad 20m
14 Choccy Bar Crack LHS

Begin up the zigzag crack 1.5m L of the main line.

FFA: Mark Witham & Paul Badenoch, 31 May 2021

Trad 20m
The proj

Closed Project between choccy bar crack and green room. All moves have been done on TR, start needs a bolt or 2. Super technical, probably 28/29

FA: Kelly Thorpe, Feb 2017

TradProject 20m
24 The Green Room

Prominent left trending seam and crack. From the road it's the most obvious line at Greenly. Hard fingers to start, great stemming, jamming and lay backing to finish.

FA: Vaughn Thomas & Kelly Thorpe, 2012

FFA: Kelly Thorpe, Nov 2016

Trad 20m
24 Green Room Direct Finish

Start up the crux seam as for Green Room, after this instead of going left, trend up fun crack on the right to slab up top. Up the slab and mount final bulge with finger crack in it. Great gear and a much better finish to Green Room

FFA: Kelly Thorpe, 2023

Trad 25m
Ondi's project

Crimpy slab has been cleaned and dangerous blocks removed. Has been TR at about grade 18/19? Will need bolts in the first half to be lead. Finish up crack on left and up easy slab on top. Climbs really well!

TradProject
10 Fall n Swing

Same start as the 'Dr Dre's', then traverse far left into the easy corner.

FFA: Martin Sheridan & Ty George

Trad
15/16 The Dr Dre Hand Jam Clinic

Large wall 15 right (South) of 'Green Room'. Start up wide layback crack on right, tricky move up then traverse left 3m to jam crack. Regurgitate your notes you took in the hand jam clinic 3 minutes ago and fire up to the top. Exit out a little corner at the top. Super fun!

FFA: Kelly Thorpe & Andre Pearson, Dec 2017

Trad 18m
20 Dre's finger lock seminar

Start up Dr Dre to the break (3m). Ensure you listen to your tutor regarding whether a lock is pinky up or pinky down, then layback and finger lock your way up the seam. Super fun!

FFA: Kelly Thorpe & Andre Pearson, 2018

Trad 18m
16 8 Mile chinmney

Kelly did 3 rounds with the boxthorn tree growing out from the bottom, even a midnight shift on the secateurs. Finally on the 4th round he got to tie in and do battle. A must do squeeze chimney, Yosemite-ish, pants recommended. Mount the box thorn stump and chicken wing and thrust your way up, slinging boulders as you go. Hard to grade, blue collar work, add 10 grades if you’ve never done a squeeze chimney before.

Trad 18m
20 Eminem Stem

An amazing outing up the seam and corner! A very spicy lead and just as enjoyable as a TR. Bring micro nuts for the first half.

Stem across to large footer and pre-place a good #3 BD nut before launching up the seam (options for smaller back up nuts also). Boulder problem leads you left into the corner, another foot or so allows for some micro nut placements (Kong#2 and BD#4, smaller options exist also). Up fun corner with solid gear, mantle, and up final short crack. Great!

Trad 18m
17 Watchful Eyes

Attractive corner-crack just R of the gully.

FFA: Rob Baker & Tim Davis, 1996

Trad 12m
18/19 Four in a Day

Corner 5m R of Watchful Eyes then the headwall on the R.

FFA: Rob Baker & Tim Davis, 1996

Trad 19m
12 Beehive crack

Wide crack just R of Four in a Day. Stem outside or get in and wriggle up to the old giant beehive, step R and exit.

FFA: James Thorpe & Kelly Thorpe, Nov 2016

Trad 18m
23 3 in a Day

The fingers and seam crack on flat wall 2m right of Beehive crack.

FFA: Kelly Thorpe, Nov 2016

Trad 15m
21 Rob Baker Tribute Traverse

The leftward seam starting 3m R of 3 in a Day. Up slab, follow seam left and finish as for 3 in a Day. Hard to place gear on lead.

FFA: Kelly Thorpe, Nov 2016

Trad
20 The Nose

Same start as for RBTT. Delicate moves up slab, gain good holds in crack and fire up the nose with good jams and a tricky exit out through the right crack.

FFA: Kelly Thorpe, Dec 2017

Trad 15m
21 Moss Tattoo

Distinct bulging crack 10m right of 'The Nose'. Great hand jamming from tight hands, hands, fists and a nice flairing top. Flaired sections keep it interesting. Watch out for big block sitting on a ledge at halfway. Bring #2 and #3 cams Amazing!

FFA: Kelly Thorpe, 2018

Trad 20m
11 Smokey Pig Face

Short but fun. Up crack behind cave on the far right end (Southern end) of Northern end area.

Trad 10m
Northern group Sunstone area (Eastern Side)
23 Sunstone

R-tending crack then corner to finish.

FA: Rob Baker & Tim Davis, 1996

Trad 15m
21 Big Bambi

Left leaning crack 3m Right of Sunstone. Great laybacking and jamming, finish as for Sunstone.

FFA: Kelly Thorpe, 2017

FA: Kelly Thorpe, 2017

Trad 15m
22 Little Bambi

Small fingers crack 2m Right of Big Bambi. Some good locks and laybacks with no feet, except the crack. Small in size but climbs well and packs a punch! Add two grades if you start right from the ground without stepping up and using the block to the left.

FFA: Kelly Thorpe, 2017

FA: Kelly Thorpe, 2017

Trad 12m
Central cliffs
6 How's the Serenity?

Amongst the first major collection of outcrops south of the mid point of the ridge, 150m north of the big buttresses of the southwest flank. The climb is at the top of a short wide gully near the centre of the crag. Up the chimney to the roof, bellyflop R and continue.

FA: Paul Badenoch & Vicki Kavanagh, 5 Jul 2017

Trad 10m
14 Puwanna Crack

The wide crack several metres L of Rainbow Corner. Start as for that route.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 6 Jul 2017

Trad 18m
15 Rainbow Corner

Prominent LH corner on the southwest flank of the mountain. Look for a large boulder on the slope 50m below the cliff. The climb is behind it, slightly to the R. Start directly.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 6 Jul 2017

Trad 20m
16 Rainbow Corner LHV

Finish up the hand crack just L of Rainbow Corner.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 6 Jul 2017

Trad 20m
18 Obscured by Clouds

Crack system up front of most prominent outcrop 200m south of summit cairn and 50m east of track.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 6 Jul 2016

Trad 16m
15 Millapa Crack

Finger crack on front of large pointy outcrop 40m east of summit cairn.

FA: Paul Badenoch & Vicki Kavanagh, 8 Jul 2016

Trad 10m

Showing all 44 routes.

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