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Routes as trad in Bregaglia

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Showing all 42 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Piz Badile
5a North Ridge Mixed trad 1200m, 22, 20
7 Another day in paradise

Route runs through the right side of the face. It starts at the foot by an obvious crack and first 4 pitches (grade 5-6) have quite run-outs. Then you reach the ledge, where most parties start. From there the bolts are not so spaced any more, though climbing is a bit harder.

FA: B. Miller, K. Muller & H. Zgraggen, 1991

Mixed trad 500m, 20, 8
6a Via Cassin
1 5c
2 4a
3 3b
4 3c
5 5c
6 5a
7 5b
8 5a
9 4b
10 3b
11 2
12 6a
13 5b+
14 5a
15 5b
16 5c
17 5b
18 4c
19 5a
20 4c
21 4c

One of the classic north faces of the Alps.

Bring some cams, a set of nuts and 12 quickdraws. Most of the belays are equipped with 1-2 longlife bolts.

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/piz-badile-cassin/

FA: Riccardo Cassin, Gino Esposito, Vittorio Ratti, Marioa Molteni & Giuseppe Valsecchi, 1937

Trad 800m, 21
7b+ Via Nardella

FA: 1973

Trad 900m
Albigna Bio-Pillar
{UIAA} FR:6a Arabella
1 4c
2 5c
3 4c
4 5b
5 6a
6 4b
7 3a
Trad 250m, 7
5c+ Via Classica
1 5b+
2 5c
3 3b
4 5c+
5 5a
6 4c
7 4b
8 5c
Trad 250m, 8
6b+ Diedro Dimenticato
1 6a
2 6b
3 6b+
4 5b
Trad 180m, 4
6c Snoopy
1 6b
2 6b+
3 6b
4 6c
5 6b
Trad 200m, 5
5c Via Miki
1 5c
2 5c
3 5b
4 4c
5 5b
6 4c
7 3b
Trad 200m, 7
6b Berg Sea
1 5c+
2 5a
3 6b
4 5b
5 5b
6 4b
Trad 180m, 6
5c+ La Rosa Rossa
1 4a
2 5a
3 5c+
4 5a
5 4a
Trad 180m, 5
Albigna Spazzacaldeira
7a Gi-Emme
1 6a+
2 5c
3 6c+
4 7a
5 6a
6 6a+
7 4c
Mixed trad 7, 1
6a+ Steinfresser
1 5c
2 5c
3 6a
4 6a+
5 4c
Mixed trad 180m, 5, 10
7a Daccapo
1 6a+
2 7a
3 6c+
4 6a+
5 4c
Mixed trad 180m, 1
6b+ Reorie del cele
1 6a+
2 6b+
3 6a+
4 5a
Mixed trad 4, 1
6a Nasi Goreng
1 6a 50m
2 6a 20m
3 5c+ 45m
4 5c 30m
5 6a 45m
6 5a 50m
7 5c 50m
Mixed trad 290m, 7, 1
7a Kind of magic
1 6a+
2 6c+
3 7a
4 6c+
Mixed trad 4, 1
6a Dente per Dente
1 5b
2 5b
3 5c
4 5a
5 5b
6 6a
7 6a
8 5c

Kann als Zustieg auf den NE-Grat begangen werden.

Gebohrt, Keile und Friends trotzdem notwendig.

Trad 8
4c NE-Ridge Trad 10
6a NE Ridge Direct Variante Nigg
1 5c
2 5b
3 6a

selten begangene Variante des NE-Grates

Detour of the NE sporn

Trad 3
4a SE-Grat Trad
6a+ Lasciamili
1 5a
2 5c
3 6a
4 6a+
5 6a
6 5b
7 6a

Friends 0.3-2, Keile 8-12

Mixed trad 7, 10
6b Tiramisu
1 5b
2 6a
3 6b
4 5c
Mixed trad 4, 1
6a+ Via Leni
1 5c
2 6a+
3 5c
4 5c
5 5c+

Re-equipped in 2013. Camalots 0.5 to 2 could be useful.

Mixed trad 150m, 5, 14
Albigna Piz Balzet
{UIAA} FR:6c+ Face-to-Face Mixed trad 150m, 15
4 WSW Ridge (Albigna Geist) Trad 800m
Albigna Punta da l'Albigna
4c W-Pfeiler Trad
Albigna Vergine - Al Gal
4c Traverse Vergine - Al Gal Mixed trad 300m, 5
Albigna Roda Val della Neve
6b Via Niedermann
1 5b 45m
2 6a+ 40m
3 6b 50m
4 6a 40m
5 5c+ 50m
6 5a
7 5c
8 5a

Topo can be found on eastbolt.ch.

400m, 6b, R2, IV, +250 Meter bis zum Gipfel

Partially(?) re-equipped in 2018.

2x50m ropes, 14 quickdraws, cams 12mm - 114mm.

FA: Max Niedermann, E Näf, U. Hürlimann, und P. Frei & P. Frei, 1975

Trad 230m, 8
7a Nigg

350m, 7a, RS3, IV, +250 Meter bis zum Gipfel

FA: L Blättler, E. Neeracher & P.Nigg, 1968

Trad 600m
Via Canali

FA: E. Bozzi, J. Canali & R. Merendi, 1959

Trad
5a Via dei Gufi Trad
Albigna Punta Pioda
{UIAA} 6- North West Ridge Trad 1000m, 23
Pizzi Gemelli
5b Bugeleisen

FA: H Frei+J Weiss 27/8July1935, 1935

Mixed trad 300m, 12, 12
Sciora group Torre Innominata
5a+ Westkante

FA: R. Merendi, 1957

Trad 450m, 12
7 Via di Mezzo

Well protected route in perfect rock with cracks and face climbing. Rap-off.

FA: B. Falett & G. Lisignoli, 2000

Mixed trad 270m, 10, 6
Sciora group Fort da Sciora
5b Ciao Lililu

Route starts on the right side of the obvious corner in the center of the face. Nice climbing on flakes and cracks with good protection.

Pitches:
4c, 4c, 5b, 5b, 3a, 3a
Mixed trad 160m, 6, 8
6c+ Risslein streckt dich

Route starts on the right of the obvious corner with a hand crack. The crux is very esthetic and gymnastic section in the 3rd pitch, all well protected.

Mixed trad 180m, 7, 8
Sciora group Pioda di Sciora
6b Via Bramani

Perfect rock, pitons and bolts. The crux is the overhang in the middle (6b, or 5c A0), other pitches are up to 5b/5c.

FA: E. Bozzoli-Parasacchi & V. Bramani, 1935

Mixed trad 1000m, 26, 4
6b+ Fuorikante

FA: W. Weippert & K. Simon, 1933

Trad
Sciora group Piz Grand
6a Awake

In south-east face from right side to the center. Sustained climb on small holds with nice technical moves with quite run-outs. It feels harder than 6a, crux in corners and cracks.

My pitches
4c, 5a, 6a, 6b, 6a
Mixed trad 220m, 6, 7
Piz Cengalo
5b Nordwestpfeiler Gaiser-Lehmann

FA: F. Gaiser & B. Lehmann, 1937

Trad

Showing all 42 routes.

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