Showing all 88 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
West Face | |||||
5.11a | ★★★ Carol's Crack | 50m | |||
5.10c | ★★ Carl's Face
Climb the face and arete right of Raindance, clipping bolts and placing small protection in cracks. Take small cams and small wires. 30m lower off two bolts. FFA: Danny Rosen & Dennis Horning, 1990 | 30m | |||
5.11a | ★★★ One-Way Sunset | ||||
5.11a | ★★★ Mr. Clean
FFA: Henry Barber, 1977 | 150m, 3 | |||
5.11d | ★★★ A Bridge Too Far
FA: Todd Skinner, Steve Hong & mark Sonnenfeld, 1983 | 36m, 1 | |||
5.10a | ★★★ Tulgey Wood
Pitch 1 and 2 can be linked (both 10a). Pitch 3 is super sustained mostly 3.5 camalot size for about 50m FA: 1972 | 100m, 4 | |||
5.10c | ★★ McCarthy West Face Variation | 80m | |||
5.11a | ★★★ El Matador | 150m, 5 | |||
5.11d | Buster Cattlefield | 35m | |||
5.11b | California Dreaming | 30m | |||
5.12a PG13 | Wrong Way | 37m | |||
5.10d PG13 | Burning Down The House | 49m | |||
5.10a | Fractal | 40m | |||
5.11d | Deli Express | 99m, 3 | |||
5.10a | Man Without A Planet | 43m | |||
5.7 A4 | Blotter Is My Spotter | 170m, 4 | |||
5.11b R | Park Politics | 40m | |||
5.10d | Spank The Monkey | 46m | |||
5.11d | Avalon | 110m, 3 | |||
5.10b | Up In Smoke | 34m | |||
5.11d | Double Feature | 49m | |||
5.11b | Scottfree | 46m | |||
5.12b | Some Like It Hot | 24m | |||
5.11b | Dead Point | 27m | |||
5.11a | Way Layed | 49m | |||
5.11b | Mccarthy West Face | 70m, 2 | |||
5.11a | La Vaca Solitaria | 40m | |||
5.8 A2+ PG13 | Harkness Variation | 170m, 3 | |||
5.12b/c | Billie Bear Cranks The Rad | 24m | |||
5.12b | 411 Southwest | 46m | |||
South Face | |||||
5.7 | ★★ Durrance
The easiest route up Devils Tower and likely the most climbed route up the tower. Newer crack climbers often struggle, frequently insisting it's severely sandbagged. This climb is best recognized by the right-leaning pillar on the left flank of the south face. Approach: from the parking lot, go up the paved trail and take the branch that goes counter-clockwise around the tower. Walk along the path until you encounter a pair of metal viewing tubes. Follow the obvious climbers trail until it reaches the cliff, at the base of the "bowling alley". There are a number of variations to exactly where the climb starts, and how the pitches are counted. The following seems to be a common choice:
FA: Jack Durrance & Harrison Butterworth, 1938 | 150m | |||
5.7 | ★★ Weissner | ||||
5.8 | ★ Bon Homme | 100m | |||
5.8 | ★★ Bon Homme Variation
FA: Dennis Hornung aka "Dingus McGee" | 2 | |||
5.11d | ★★★ Direct Southeast | 66m, 2 | |||
{AU} YDS:5.9 | ★★★ Walt Bailey Memorial | 55m | |||
5.10c | ★★★ Hollywood and Vine
FA: 1960 | 90m, 2 | |||
5.7 | Devil's Delight Direct | 60m, 2 | |||
East Face | |||||
5.10c | ★★★ Hollywood and vine
Pitch 1. Climb the chimney on the right side of the broken column and belay from two bolts on top of the column. Pitch 2. Step right and into the crack from the bolts, Using finerlocks and stemming, climb up the old aid crack in the center of the shallow dihedral to a ledge at the top of the crack and belay from two bolts. Pitch 3. easy climbing directly up to the meadows FA: Gary Cole & Jacquot, 1960 FFA: Jeff Overton & Scott Woodruff, 1974 | 84m, 3 | |||
5.9 | ★★★ Soler
FA: Tony Soler, Art Lembeck, Herb Conn, Ray Moore & Chris Scordus, 1951 FFA: Layton Kor & Raymond Jacquot, 1959 | 79m | |||
5.7 | TAD | 82m | |||
5.8 | ★★ El Cracko Diablo | 82m | |||
5.10+ | ★★ Casper College | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ Burning Daylight | ||||
North Face | |||||
5.10- | ★★★ Belle Fourche Buttress | ||||
5.8 | ★ Patent Pending | ||||
5.10a | ★★★ New Wave
FA: Dennis Hornung aka "Dingus McGee" | 80m | |||
5.10b | ★★★ Broken Tree | 80m | |||
5.11b | ★★★ Everlasting | 100m | |||
5.9 | ★★★ Assemblyline | ||||
5.10d | ★★★ Back to Montana
Pitch 1: Climb up 5.8 slab and crack to bolted belay. Pitch 2: traverse right then up into to a crack leading you into a right facing dihedral. Climb this very thin crack with fingers where they fit, and stem where they dont, finish up at the top of the broken column and belay at the bolts there. FFA: Frank Sanders & Chris Engle, 1981 | 94m, 2 | |||
5.11a | ★★★ McCarthy North Face
Pitch 1. Climb the steep friction and right crack, passing two small bushes and a small bulge. Climb into a dihedral by making use of ledges on the left side. Then get under the large roof. Belay at the bolts. Pitch 2. Climb over the right side of the roof and continue up on the sustained finger crack (shallow) to a belay at two bolts. Pitch 3. Continue up the thin hand to hand crack above to a small belay stance at some bolts | 110m, 3 | |||
Durrance Approach | |||||
5.9 | Liken Lichen | 37m | |||
5.7 A2+ | Late For Dinner | 61m, 2 | |||
5.11b | Direct Southwest | 91m, 3 | |||
5.9 | Rangers Are People Too | 40m | |||
5.6 A3 | Double-Edged Blade | 91m, 2 | |||
5.12 | Tunnel Vision | 91m, 2 | |||
5.11- | Lovely Liana | 40m | |||
5.10d | P.O.T.C. | 150m, 3 | |||
5.11b | Black-Jones Direct | 37m | |||
5.9 | Manifest Destiny | 47m | |||
5.7 | ★★★ Durrance | 150m, 6 | |||
5.5 PG13 | Bowling Alley- | 30m | |||
5.7 | Sundance | ||||
5.7 | Wiessner | 84m, 3 | |||
5.8 | Pseudo- Wiessner | ||||
5.11d | The Interesting Problem Below | 20m | |||
East And Northeast Buttress Approach | |||||
5.10b | Witchie | ||||
5.10d | Casper College | 49m | |||
5.10b | Burning Daylight | 49m | |||
5.9 | Gooseberry Jam | 120m, 4 | |||
5.10b | Belle Fourche Buttress | 46m, 2 | |||
5.10b | Dump Watt | 140m, 3 | |||
5.10a A4 | Pinball Wizard | 50m | |||
5.11a | The Hourglass | 43m | |||
5.7 A2 - 3 | Path Through Enlightenment | 49m | |||
5.11- | Stepping Out Of Flatland | 120m, 3 | |||
5.11a | Soaring | 91m, 3 | |||
5.8 | Patent Pending | 200m, 4 | |||
5.9 | Assembly Line | 43m, 2 | |||
5.12c | Surfer Girl | 49m | |||
5.10a | ★★ New Wave | 67m, 2 | |||
5.8 R | Missed Opportunity | 30m | |||
5.10b | Broken Tree | 82m, 2 | |||
5.11d | Maid In The Shade | 50m | |||
5.11b | Everlasting | 91m, 2 | |||
5.10d | Back To Montana | 43m |
Showing all 88 routes.