Routes as sport in Musquodoboit Valley Area

Originally a mixed route but many years after the first ascent it saw little traffic (likely due to the poorly protected bottom section where a fall would leave the leader impaled on a tree stump) so a bolt was added in the fall of 2013.

Start on the center left of the Pet wall right of the large Maple growing out of the crag. climb up past 2 bolts to thin and slightly overhanging face. Climb past the next two bolts (crux), gain the finger crack and run it out to the top.

2 bolt anchor with rings

Left end of the cliff. CLimb three bolts to the ledge (shared with Time Line), then take the left bolt line.

Left end of the cliff. CLimb three bolts to the ledge (shared with Westward Migration), then take the right bolt line.

Climb NS guidebook says 7 bolts but an 8th was added (not visible from the ground).

First bolt is up on a ledge, accessed to its right. There is a first aid box nearby.

First bolt line in the gully, left of the alcove.

Right side of alcove. Finish on left face.

Grade unconfirmed, anchor unknown

slab left of Popcorn

Bolted slab. Follow the line of white granite.

Nova Scotia's first 5.14.

From trapeze, up the right line.

From trapeze, up the middle.

From the trapeze, go left.

6 bolts per pitch (5.11b, 5.12a), 2 ring anchor / tree

Originally done in a single pitch, but there's now an anchor placed on the ledge where this route crosses Left of Centre.

Splitting this into 2 pitches is recommended, given the two sections of the route are offset by a good margin.

Dihedral to overhang. Located on section right of the approach trail.

Slab and arete right of Cat and Mouse.

Bolted Crack dihedral next to Totally Industrial.

Guidebook says 6 bolts for 40m, which seems either really R-rated, or under-reported. Or more bolts were added later?

Long sport climb up the slab (crux), left, right and up to the overhanging crack. skirt right and up the flake then either head up left or right of spruce tree to top anchors and a view.

Climb the wall to the right of Phat Tuesday. Climb up and fight to notch in roof.

Climb the face and arete to the left of Mr. T. This climb goes on for ever, with lots of rope drag unless you skip bolts

See Rock Climbing Nova Scotia guidebook, p. 175

scooped slab with cracked wall to the left.

Short slab climb.

Climb the face to the left of the arête. Large holds lead to crack. Top anchor with two rings. Nice easy beginner lead. Somewhere around six bolts.

Start around the corner to the left of Knowledge Enema. Stem across the wide crack and move over onto the steep wall at the horizontal. Crux move on hidden hold get you established on the wall. Big holds and a scramble take you to the anchor, This climb was put up as an approach route for Safety is my Middle Name.

From the anchors for No Call Waiting move up on big holds to a steeper section with strange holds. Continue up the bulge and finish on the slab

Slab

Climb blocks on far right of wall.

Formerly Potatoe Project