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Showing all 30 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
6 Stepping Stones

Up right side of big block on slabby terrace. Step right at bulge.

FA: Keith Lockwood

Trad 18m
6 Skipping Girl

3m right of SS, Slab to weakness. Trend left up slabby rib and bulgy crack then juggy bulge

FA: Keith Lockwood

Trad 18m
12 Humpty Dumpty

Slab and bulge right of SG. Finish through centre of upper bulge

FA: Keith Lockwood

Trad 18m
8 Merry Go Round

Slab and bulge at right end of slabby terrace. Continue up yellow tinged corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood

Trad 25m
13 Slippery Dip

Brushed bulge 2m right of MGR. Finish right of yellow corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Brian Luxford

Trad 25m
7 Wool socks and galoshes

This is probably what Noddy has written up as Marbles in Argus, but graded 11!. Start 4m left of Pure and Simple, just right of a flake sticking up out of the ground. Head straight up. Good gear and climbing the whole way.

FA: Sarah Natali & Wendy Eden, 5 Dec 2016

Trad 25m
12 Pure and Simple

Supped to have a crack, but doesn't! 6m left of FOTR, 1m left of diagonal seam of Flying Foxes, behind a cherry ballart. Up wall, then vague juggy corner. Tricky down low. Was graded 8!

FA: Bruce & Rod Sutherland, 1984

Trad 30m
16 Flying Foxes

Diagonal seam that doesn't quite reach the ground left of FOTR. Bouldery start, diagonal then wall right of the corner of Pure and Simple.

FA: Keith Lockwood et al.

Trad 30m
22 All Day Sucker

Up the slab, going R and L a bit.

Start: Start just L of FotR.

FA: James Falla...with 5 on the blunt end!, 1985

Trad 20m
13 Fox on the Rocks

From the block step L and up frictional slab.

Start: Start 10m L of the detached pillar, under a large block which is 1m up a grey wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Law, 1976

Trad 20m
22 R Show Us Your Scabs

The slab, scary up high.

Start: Start just R of FotR.

FA: James Falla & Dave Mudie, 1986

Trad 20m
22 Bestiality

Small corner, past BR, to ledge, then continue.

Start: Start 2m R of SUYS.

FA: Dave Mudie & James Falla, 1986

Mixed 20m, 1
22 Fun and Games

The weakness to the break, traverse L through roof and over.

Start: Start just L of JC, off the top of the detached pillar.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981

Trad 30m
18 Johns Corner

Climb the R-facing corner (or the much better steep jugs 3m R), then go R under lower roof. Over lip into short corner then ledge on L. Now traverse 8m L then up. (The DF goes straight up from the corner at 20).

Start: Start off the top of the detached pillar.

FA: Mike Law, Peter Watson (DF by Lincoln Shepherd & Anthony Ryan), 1990

Trad 30m
20 John's Corner Direct

From the corner of John's Corner, step left then head up wall past bolt. The best way to do the route.

Mixed 25m, 1
24 R Split Level

Up JC to it's top roof, then traverse R past old manky fixed gear, cams, and a runout, to join 'Cecilia'. It's worse to second than to lead.

Start: Start as for JC.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 30m
22 Wall of Horrors

Another traverse which needs a strong second.

Start: Start as for JC.

  1. 20m (22) Up JC for 6m then R along subtle traverse line, below SL, to flake. Step down R to pedestal on 'Cecilia'.

  2. 30m (22) R to flake, slightly up, then further R to join 'Frontispiece'.

FA: P1 Kevin Lindorff, 1976

FA: P2 Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 50m, 2
24 Guide for the Perplexed

Face past BR to roof with manky old fixed gear, and straight over roof past another BR.

Start: Start 3m R of JC.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd (originally traversing off - the finish was added in), 1990

Mixed 25m, 4
25 Buddhist Economics

Reachy start past 2 BRs over bulge, then trend R. Tackle the roof 2m L of C at a weakness.

Start: Start just L of C.

FA: Parrish Robbins & Mike Fox, 1990

Mixed 25m, 2
22 Cecilia

The crackline up the leaning yellow wall, joining the R facing corner at the roof. Don't trust the manky old aid bolts. 1 FH, 3 manky carrot bolts.

Start: Start off the detached pillar either by leaning across and climbing steeply up, or a committing, but significantly easier leap.

FA: Chris Baxter & Tim Hancock, 1970

FFA: Glenn Tempest, 1976

Mixed 25m, 4
26 Clap Hands

Crank up the line past PR to pedestal then roof, then L into shallow groove.

Start: Start 1.5m R of C.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

Trad 25m
24 Please Tow the Lettuce to the Pines

Really very good. This is the logical way to address the space 5m R of Cecilia and if it were done first would be obvious sister-routes to Cecilia and Blind Ambition. Because of history, it has ended up as a link up of Intransience, Blind Ambition and Girls on Bikes.

Three distinct sections: the first is Intransience 's initial steep moves to a rest. Then moving L approximately 1.5m (where Intransience goes R) via nice moves through the tricky grey section and back R again to another rest. Finally directly up through the blank black section over the last RB.

There is an alternative L finish from the last big horizontal up an obvious flake between the described finish and Cecilia, however despite the climbing being easier, gear is non-existent.

FA: Christian Seger & Adam Syriatowicz, 1997

Mixed 27m, 1
23 Intransience

Committing traverse R gains ledge, then up R and up black wall.

Start: Start 10m R, and down from, 'Cecilia'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1979

Trad 30m
25 Blind Ambition

Short crack past PR to ledge on I, and up I to jug. Now slightly L to join flake. L at break and then up.

Start: Start down R of I.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Geoff Little, 1982

Trad 30m
25 Girls on Bikes

Bulging crack then traverse L to ledge. Head L and up very faint groove over bulge into WoH. Now go diagonally L to finish up 'Cecilia'.

Start: Start 1.5m R of BA.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1981

Trad 40m
6 Space Corp Directive 703472A

Involves a rubber chicken.

The Red Dwarf is the pinnacle opposite the one that Cecilia starts from. Descend by using your partner as an anchor on the opposite side as you rap off.

On the side facing Cecilia, climb low angled, juggy crack on left.

FA: Greg Pritchard & Deb Sweet, 1999

Trad 10m
19 Change of Plans, Leg it!

Heading left around the pillar, up undercut corner on left side of Gelf icon then up face.

FA: Richard Smith & Jon Bassindale, 1999

Trad 10m
20 Entering the Gelf Zone

On the East face (the one facing camp), left of the Gelf icon and corner of CoPLI is a line through a bulge. Be warned about rock and gear.

FA: Hoskins & Pritchard, 1996

Trad 10m
17 Nanobots

On the left side of the main face (that faces camp) and left of ETGZ. Up to roof. Through the aforementioned roof, stepping left and up arete.

FA: The Cat, Kryten, Lister & Kochanski, 1999

Trad 10m
8 Emohawk

Scramble down and around the corner left of ETGZ. Start left of right arete. Up and step left onto 'emohawk'. Then up slabby arete.

FA: Dwayne Dibbly & Ace Rimmer, 1996

Trad 10m

Showing all 30 routes.