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Routes as trad in Heckle and Jeckle Area

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Showing all 24 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
15 Jewish Humour

Line 1.5 metres left of 'Hopelessly Obscure'.

FA: Greg Pritchard & Kirsty Hamilton, 1993

Trad 9m
18 Hopelessly Obscure

Crack through bulge on right side of small face.

FA: Bert Levy & Kate Jacobsen, 1990

Trad 9m
22 R Laughing Like A Fat Spider

A typically bold route by Paul. Not much gear on the crux.

The route Logical Conclusion (1997) written up recently (2009) by Bert Levy is a repeat of this climb.

Start: Start left of 'Fantoochi'.

FA: Hoskins & Bride, 1996

Trad 12m
20 Fantoochi

Steep seam on orange rock. Step L and do the not-quite-direct-but-better-climbing finish. If you want. Don't let us pressure you.

FA: Eddy Ozols, Natalie Green. Finish as described: Eric Jones & Chris Baxter.., 1985

Trad 13m
17 Double Decker

Line 2 metres right of 'Fantoochi'.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Charlie Creese, 1985

Trad 13m
17 The Creesed Palm

Climb wall and step right to tiny, left-facing corner which is followed until you can swing right to arete. Up.

Start: Start 1 metre right of 'Double Decker'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Charlie Creese & Dave Gairns, 1985

Trad 14m
22 Wok Full of Custard

A neat little climb squeezed between Bed Lag and The Creesed Palm. Originally set as a top rope problem; there is enough gear in the corner to keep things sane.

Start up Bed Lag, then move left into the corner on the arete. Small wires protect the run out to the rooflet, then move left to finish up The Creesed Palm.

FA: Douglas Hockly

FFA: benwiessner, 2 Oct 2021

Trad 15m
21 R Bed Lag

Starts up 'Wogs at the Piles', but instead of breaking right continues straight up the face. At times the gear is small and spaced.

FA: Charlie Creese & Robin Miller, 1985

Trad 14m
21 R Wogs at the Piles

Previously described as "Good climbing but has some runout moves above not brilliant protection". Circa 2017 two retrobolt were added: one at the start (shared by Bedlag), and another bolt halfway (this has since been removed).

Start at the arete of 'Bed Lag' and do a rising traverse through bulge across flakes to right arête. Up and finish slightly left.

FA: Charlie Creese, Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1985

Trad 15m
24 Derros in the Pines

A contrived direct start to Wogs. Up past a shallow pocket to meet Wogs half way up.

Trad 15m
18 Uncle Fester

Start as for crack attack then step L around corner to stance (no more bolt?). Up on the L of arete over sus gear to rail, move L and up.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen tempest, Aug 2015

Trad 19m
17 Crack Attack

Steep climbing up the corner left of 'Mr Hyde'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Charlie Creese & Dave Gairns, 1985

Trad 15m
15 Mr Hyde

Good, sustained jam crack up left wall of 'Heckle'. Take a few large cams or hexes.

Graded 15 by Mentz & Tempest, Arapiles Selected Climbs Guide Book.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1968

Trad 15m
7 Heckle

The major corner-chimney bounding the left side of the black slab, mainly climbed on the slab.

FA: Norm Booth & Murray Taylor, 1968

Trad 15m
9 Girl Talk

Clean black slab right of 'Heckle'.

FA: Robyn Storer & Sue Baxter, 1985

Trad 18m
13 R Rush of Blood

Well-protected technical climbing low-down leads to a runout finish. Crucial protection in the top half of the climb is provided by an insecure sling; double ropes help.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Sue Key & Ed Neve, 1979

Trad 18m
13 Rush of Blood Direct Finish
Trad 18m
15 Murph Takes the Plunge

Distinct black streak midway between Rush Of 'Blood' and 'Jeckle'.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1985

Trad 18m
18 Jeckle

The very technical, bouldery start was always a bit of a shock to people expecting a grade 14! The rest of the route is substantially easier.

FA: Garry Sudholz & Keith Lockwood, 1968

Trad 18m
18 Goodbye Gumby

Up flake, at top step right on orange wall and go up slightly right to easier finish.

Start: Start at right-facing flake right of 'Jeckle' and before the streak of Clap For Kiwis.

FA: Eric Jones & Chris Baxter, 1985

Trad 18m
22 Clap for Kiwis

Brushed streak right of 'Jeckle' and left of the diagonal of 'Sheckle'. Now has a bolt on the crux, originally done without. Impressive by Lou.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Robin Miller, 1984

Mixed trad 18m, 1
22 Scouting for Boys

Begin up the diagonal, step left at horizontal break and continue up face.

Start: Start at the right-leading diagonal on right side of face.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Eddie Ozols, 1984

Trad 18m
20 Sheckle Indirect Start

Start at the orange corner and inch your way up and right. It appears that some people who have done this route thought they were on Sheckle (grade 13)?

Not great gear or climbing.

Trad
13 Sheckle

The right-leading diagonal flake on the right end of the black slab.

FA: Mike Law (solo), 1982

Trad 18m

Showing all 24 routes.

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