Routes as trad in Hum Terrace

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Showing all 31 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
18 Over and Out

A girdle traverse of the left side of the wall. Start 5 metres northwardsish of most southerly conifer.

FA: Alistair Mark, Dave Vass, Fiona Bowie & Marcus Wallaby., 1988

Trad 30m
20 Jugs and Fun

From cave left of Down And Out climb out right and up overhanging wall.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985

Trad 22m
20 Down and Out

Start from the big chock stone. Left to thin crack then up through roof to steep wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Craig Nottle, 1979

Trad 25m
21 Mark and Craig

A few more repeats might help clear up the route description.

Option 1: From halfway along the Down And Out traverse, go up through bulges on tiny edges (and no gear?), to prominent flake.

Option 2: Traverse a quarter of the Down And Out traverse, then go up via thin seams and decent gear, before spanning a metre left to gain the prominent flake.

Follow the glory jugs to the Down And Out anchor (found tucked around the corner).

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985

Trad 24m
17 Lord of the Rings Variant Start

Up breaks L of red streak at top of Intrepid Gully.

Trad 20m
19 Kansas City Direct Finish

Nowhere near Kansas City! Quite good but quite reachy and closer to 22 if you're short.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 18m
16 Waddy Mackenzie

Pull up on jugs behind small tree immediately right of Kansas City DF, over bulge and up.

FA: Craig Nottle, Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1983

Trad 20m
19 Exodus 2.5 Direct Finish

Start direct if you want but guard against cracked red hold with small cam (green Alien size). Otherwise start up Waddy Mackenzie.

Trad 18m
21 Four Spooner

Start 8m R of Kansas City Direct Finish. Boulder the hard start using square pocket and minimal pro, then up to the right of the left-leading diagonal, before following jugs to top.

FA: Peter Newman & Mark Moorhead, 1979

Trad 20m
22 Nihilism

One very long move on nice rock.

FA: Douglas Hockly, Kate Finnerty & Callum Dougal

Trad 18m
15 Heavy Breathing

Steep wall on incuts to finish through overhang.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Dave Gairns, 1983

Trad 20m
15 Heartless Heart

? repeat of Heavy Breathing.

1.5 metres left of Heavy Petting.

FA: Martin Lama etc, 1991

Trad 20m
15 Heavy Petting

Fill in the double-entendres if you're so inclined. Start 3 metres left of Menagerie.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1983

Trad 20m
9 Munchkin

Strenuous for the grade but has great jugs. The Shepherd guide description for Menagerie followed this line but the original Menagerie description clearly places it further right. Start at top of rise behind the largest conifer (?same place as Heavy Petting).

FA: Unknown, 2000

Trad 20m
9 Menagerie

Start right of largest conifer. Short red groove, traverse right then up to left-facing corner. Up corner and exit left.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1977

Trad 20m
17 High Sigh

Direct finish to The Second Affinity. Go straight through roof or left and up.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Craig Nottle, 1983

Trad 25m
17 The Second Affinity

Absorbing climbing on immaculate rock. Originally the second pitch of a 2-pitch route; the first pitch is now The First Affinity. Start 5 metres down and right of large conifer.

FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1979

Trad 22m
17 Dinger

Start as for Hum. Where Hum heads off R step L to slot under overlap. Pull through overlap and straight up with a steep finish.

FA: Mark Wood & Eddy Mofadin, 30 Dec 2014

Trad 22m
18 R Dinger direct start

Straight up to the break with not enough gear.

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2011

Trad 25m
16 Hum

An enjoyable pitch with an exciting crux. Start 4m R of Affinity.

FA: Ed Neve, Andrew Bowman & Lyle Closs, 1977

Trad 30m
24 Jug City

In fact it's a nearly blank wall. Pass the fixed hanger of High Kicks, and continue past a ringbolt, before getting to the honeycomb featured rock and a lower off.

FA: Geoff Little & Jon Muir, 1988

Mixed trad 13m, 2
23 High Kicks

Start just left of enormous conifer and just right of the rock step down and right from Hum. Technical moves lead to a delicate flake. The old carrot bolt, although poking out attractively, has been replaced. Finish at lower off where the nest of viper like rap slings once lurked ready to strike.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1981

Mixed trad 13m, 1
25 Starlets in Tow

Desperate start. Start 3m R of High Kicks.

FA: Mike Law & Charlie Creese, 1981

Trad 20m
20 Stormalong

Sustained jamming and underclinging with feet cycling on glassy rock. The second pitch is fun in an adventurous way. Start below the right-leading roof-crack right of High Kicks.

  1. 15m (20) Take the right-leading crack until it's possible to go left across the wall to cave belay.

  2. 25m (18) Head right up steep wall then finish R up short steep corner.

FA: Jeremy Boreham & Rod Young, 1977

Trad 32m, 2
24 Afternoon Cloud

A harder variant on the second pitch of Morning Thunder. The first pitch appears a bit pointless, and the route is best done by starting up Morning Thunder.

  1. 15m (-) Start as for Morning Thunder, then go left under roof to cave on left.

  2. 20m (24) Go out over roof diagonally right to join Morning Thunder at prominent flake. Continue up Morning Thunder until it traverses right on the second pitch; instead go straight up then hard moves 2 metres left to gain a horizontal edge, then easily upwards.

FA: Jon Muir & Tony Dignan, 1985

Trad 35m, 2
25 Krakatoa

FFA: Kevin Lindorff

Mixed trad 30m, 5
24 R Morning Thunder

A great climb up the best section of the wall. Best done in one long pitch which will be pumpy to start and run-out to finish. Start at weakness 10m R of Stormalong.

  1. 15m (24) Up crack to jug at roof. Arrange wires in horizontal pocket above roof then go boldly left and up to awkward stance. Veer right to flake then up to ledge.

  2. 20m (22) Up easily on the left then traverse right above roof and up face to easier ground.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead (alt), 1979

Trad 30m, 2
25 X Sufficiently Alarming

Very serious route up the Morning Thunder wall (although the addition of extra bolts to the second pitch has helped tame that part).

  1. 15m (23) Start up Morning Thunder to overlap. The Mentz/Tempest guidebook advises to "go boldly up black streak", however it seems that there isn't a black streak, nor are there many holds (some edges appear to have snapped off), and there isn't any gear, which all makes this pitch very unappealing and unlikely at the grade. Then easily up to the ledge.

  2. 20m (25) Straight over small roof then cautiously right to bolt (scary clip). Ignore the holds going up and left (for Morning Thunder), instead do a thin move right into scoop then easily to horizontal. Finish up right in shallow groove (it appears that 2 fixed hangers have been added to this section).

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988

Mixed trad 35m, 2, 3
12 From the Ridiculous to the Sublime

Climb past short wall and ledge to gain thin crack.

FA: Phil Benson, Martin Lama & Graeme Smith, 1991

Trad 12m
18 Up in Arms

Wall 2 metres to right of FTRTTS with big pockets at 2 metres.

FA: Martin Lama, Phil Benson & Graeme Smith, 1991

Trad 12m
17 Sole Sister

Go up 1 metre right of Up In Arms and right to overhang, step right, up.

FA: Graeme Smith, Phil Benson & Martin Lama, 1991

Trad 12m

Showing all 31 routes.

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