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Showing 1 - 100 out of 279 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Socrophiliac Buttress
20 Mum's Word

Thin, with spaced pro. Take small cams. Up slabby left arete of Socrophilliac for 12m to break (#4 cam), right 2m above break along thin, horizontal crack almost into Socrophiliac, then delicately to ledge. Left arete and over bulge.

FA: Matthew & Daniel Brooks, 1991

Trad 25m
9 Socrophiliac

Landmark, left facing corner crack on left side of outcrop.

FA: Clive Parker & Lesley Kefford, 1968

Trad 25m
19 High Society

Crack 4m right of Socrophiliac to break, right and up over bulge on arete to ledge. L to crack, up to short traverse into Socrophiliac.

FA: Matthew & Daniel Brooks, 1991

Trad 27m
Mackeys Peak
11 Jagger

THe first pitch is quite dramatic for the grade but the second is rubbish. Start: Initialled line at the LH end of the cliff, the initial is 8m up, at the first ledge [about 250m R of StEF]. This is the L one of a series of cliff splitting lines.

  1. 37m (11) Easy wall to crack starting at 8m. Crack up to and around large roof to belay on chockstone.

  2. 37m (10) Short wide crack at back L of ledge. Exit L and up on easy, dirty rock.

FA: Derek Lord & Chris baxter [alt], 1967

Trad 74m, 2
16 Second Choice

Looks a bit pointless. From 18m up 'Jagger' go R into finger crack. Up this for 5m to overhang. Step R, go over overhang then back L to finish up 'Jagger'

FA: Carl karancsay, Trevor Fiske & Gerald Gierer, 1986

Trad 30m
15 Rimbaud

Start: Crack 10m R of 'Jagger'. Originally soloed by Phillip Stranger and graded 9. Some rotten rock and a large loose chockstone on P1.

  1. 20m (15) Up crack and chimney to ledge above 2 chockstones. Head up and R to ledge below undercut chimney.

  2. 25m (14) A desperate struggle to get into the chimney then up easily.

FA: Phillip Stranger, 1967

Trad 53m, 2
16 The Righteous

An old long forgotten classic. Good fun and a good line.

Start: 'Steep' corner 3m R of 'Rimbaud'.

  1. 20m (16) Up to some exciting moves around first big overhang. Continue up corner which becomes steeper, wider [BD4 or large hex useful] and more strenous to final steep exit over bulge to good ledge.

  2. 25m (14) Up undercut chimney on L as for 'Rimbaud' or straight over steep bulge above [about grade 15.]

FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst [alt], 1967

Trad 43m, 2
20 Fiddler

Not bad.

Start: 60m R of TR is a flake crack with an overhanging start.

  1. 37m (20) Easily up to roof [possible to scramble up and belay here]. Through roof [crux] and up crack to shallow scoop. R and up chimney.

  2. 25m (13) Up wide line as for Trog.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Bruno Zielke [alt], 1969

Trad 62m, 2
19 R Fiddler Direct Finish

Looks bold and scary. 2a] R 2m from shallow scoop on 'Fiddler' then up and L 5m to easier ground. Up.

FA: Peter Treby & David Webb, 1984

Trad 25m
14 The Trog

This is the L hand of 4 cliff splitting chimney lines seen clearly from Halls Gap. Supposedly once popular it is now rather dirty and neglected. Despite this the climbing is quite interesting, steep and varied. Start: 5m R of 'Fiddler', a chimney corner.

  1. 37m (14) Awkward rounded crack to ledge at base of steep corner chimney. Up this over a couple of bulges to where it becomes a deep chimney below a steepening off width corner. Belay in back of chimney.

  2. 25m (13) Up wide line easing towards the top.

FA: Derek Lord & Chris Baxter, 1967

Trad 68m, 2
15 The Aphrodisiac

Not bad old fashioned chimney and crack struggle, if you like that kind of thing.

Start: Major crack line 12m R of 'The Trog'. Seems to have been fairly recently initialled [2010]

  1. 22m (15) Crack to ledge at 6m. Up awkward line to strenuous moves around prominent overhang. Up to belay on R wall.

  2. 38m (12) Chimney easing past a few bulges.

FA: Phillip Stranger & Daryl Carr [alt], 1967

Trad 60m, 2
11 Psychotic Reaction

Major initialled line 8m R of TA.

  1. 20m (10) Start up chimney or crack 1m R. Continue up steepening line to ledge below overhanging offwidth corner.

  2. 40m (11) Step out R to crack, up this to above overhang. Continue up main line to top.

Another Phillip Stranger solo first ascent.

FA: Phillip Stranger solo, 1967

Trad 46m, 2
11 Manolete

A cool chimney which gives a fun lower grade adventure - good for a hot day. 5m R of PR.

  1. 25m (9) Up the crack 5m R of PR to the chimney. Up this to belay on chockstones.

  2. 20m (11) Up the chimney moving out towards the front where it narrows above the overhang. Up to belay above the chockstone.

  3. 20m (4) Continue easily up the line.

FA: Phillip Stranger [solo], 1967

Trad 46m, 3
24 The Force, Jeremy, Use the Force

Start: 35m R of Manolette. There is a prominent L leaning diagonal crack high up below capping ceiling.

  1. 35m (22) Undercut start, then up and R. Up L around bulge to corner. Up this to DBB with FHs.

  2. 30m (24) 'Diagonal' crack L under roof then up easily.

FA: Jeremy Boreham & Kevin Lindorff [alt], 1994

Trad 65m, 2
22 Peccadillos

An attractive variation on The Force etc Up as for TFJUTF then continue up wall on R past 2 FH to belay as for TFJUTF.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1994

Trad 35m
19 Nemesis

Used to be considered a classic, but seems to have got a lot more lichenous over the years. Surprisingly steep. The first 2 pitches can be run together and there are abseil chains at the top of them.

Start: Initialled line 30m R of The Force etc.

  1. 12m (18) Corner then R onto sloping ledge. Up crack and corner to sentry box then R to small ledge.

  2. 13m (19) Climb the twin cracks to a chimney. Up this to chains.

  3. 30m (12) Up chimney to blockage. Out R and up to large ledge. Crack through overhang and up.

FA: Roger Caffin, Clive Parker [var & with unknown amounts of aid], 1967

Trad 55m, 3
18 Mocha

Looks loose and daunting. Take big pro.

Start: 5m R of 'Nemesis'.

  1. 30m (18) Corner crack with 2 overhangs. L above second overhang to top of P2 of 'Nemesis'.

  2. 30m (17) 'Arete' on poor rock.

FA: P1 Peter Treby, Mark Woods. P2 Stephen Hamilton & Graeme Owens., 1995

Trad 60m, 2
17 Mocha Alternative Finish
Trad 30m
26 R The Grand Cappuccino

The awe inspiring crack thru' the orange roof with the big guano streaks beneathe it clearly visible from Halls Gap. Originally a fierce and intimidating aid climb on rotten rock, even more terrifying now it is free. Can be done as a mixed route at about 18 M4 for those who like exposed aid climbing.

Start: 3m R of 'Mocha'

  1. 35m (25) Thin crack to rotten ramp. From a small alcove above a bolt climb steep and strenuous crack past scary block to another bolt. Travers 10m R on poor rock to large ledge.

  2. 30m (26) L then up corner to roof [hanging belay taken here on first ascent]. Traverse L along break 2m below roof and around nose to hard mantle. Back R to rest below roof. Climb roof and up.

FA: Geoff Gledhill & Mike Stone [alt], 1970

Trad 70m, 2
17 R Karen Alexander

P2 takes the dirty mossy arete out R of BGs corner. P1 is filthy, hard and poorly protected.

Start: 8m R of BG. Initialled

  1. 31m (17) Up to overhang at 5m. Hard unprotected moves R ward around this and up steep groove to terrace. Move R and up to the foot of the big corner as for BG.

  2. 31m (17) Head out R from corner and up wall to meet overhang at its lip. Does not look like fun and is probably unrepeated.

  3. 25m (-) Up easily

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger., 1967

Trad 87m, 3
17 Bernadette Grace

The 2nd pitch is a good sustained corner. Worth doing. Started originally as for 'Karen Alexander' but the first pitch of that climb is so mossy now that it is best avoided. The first pitch is just a way to get to the corner.

Start: 22m R of 'Dedication'. A big L facing corner leading to a roof.

  1. 30m (15) Up crack 8m L of the initials KA. Follow this until the angle eases and it is possible to traverse R on a mossy ledge to an easy corner. Up this to the foot of the main steep corner.

  2. 31m (17) Corner to roof, traverse R under this to ledge.

  3. 25m (6) Up easily.

FA: Norm Booth & John Smart, 1977

Trad 87m, 3
20 Transmutation

Start: 70m R of KA below a L leading diagonal above large boulders. [I was on the first ascent and I couldn't find it again when I looked recently! PA)

  1. 15m (12) Up to diagonal roof.

  2. 15m (20) Up diagonally L to past ledge to scoop. Abseil descent from here. I think we originally thought it might go all the way to the top.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Kevin Lindorff [alt] Tony Dignan., 1978

Trad 30m, 2
The Elephants Hide
14 Elephant Slide RH (Piker's) Variant

Traverse right from 3rd bolt of Elephant's Slide, up slight ramp, up crack then up and left to finish at ES anchor

FA: Mike 'Piker' Patterson, 16 Apr 2014

Mixed 46m, 3
19 R Heffalump Trap for Poohs

Has the right number of bolts, but they are not in the right places. I imagine this was bolted on lead. With a bit of a clean and bolt rationalisation could make a good route. 2m L pf PS. Unprotected moves up L to first bolt, thin moves up past another bolt to mossy ledge. Up past another bolt to a friable unprotected bulge with a bolt after the hard moves. Up to knobbly wall [#0.5 cam] and on to large ledge with DBB. [also possible to duck R to ES belay]

FA: Greg Aimer & Chrissie Freestone, 1992

Mixed 43m, 3
16 R Hide of a Wino

Unprotected at the hard parts, but some quite nice climbing. 24m L of PS at very L end of overlap at 3m. Over this and up slab past obvious knob [10m up, first pro] for 15m, then diagonally R to flakes. Up these until they run out in 10m. Now 3m up knobby wall, then 3m diagonally L up unprotected delicate wall. Up slab for 10m and little wall above.

FA: Mike Law [solo], 1991

Trad 60m
15 Tusker

Start: L leading diagonal 8m L of HoW. This is the lowest of 3 diagonals.

  1. 25m (10) Up diagonal and follow it to cave. Up slab above line to cave.

  2. 25m (15) Yellow crack above cave to terrace. R, then up wall. Descent involves scrambling as low as possible and finding something to abb off.

FA: Chris Baxter, Stephen Hamilton [alt] & Josh Holko, 1991

Trad 50m, 2
4 The Dumbo 8
1 3
2 2
3 2
4 3
5 2
6 1
7 4
8 3

Follow tracks from Halls Gap; following the Venus Baths track. Just before Venus Baths, the track goes up stairs to left on the way to Splitters Falls. Follow track until near river - then over rocks to the other side. Theres a boulder feild over this: up right and around to top to the base of route.

  1. 50m/3 - Starts low across river going up wall and weaving left before tending back right. Belay at boulders.

  2. 50m/2 - Up over boulders up high past deep channels and belay on top of boulders up right.

  3. 50m/2 - Follow major ridge tending right and up to before break

  4. 50m/3 - Off to right from belay and up to large ledge.

  5. 40m/2 - Up steep wall onto easy terrain - belay at large block

  6. 60m/1 - Weaves on scrambles up low slabs to corner crack.

  7. 35m/4 - Interesting corner and good gear. Up and over the left of this to bollard belays.

  8. Over deep chasms and up far wall to left side of summit of Mackeys Peak.

Descent via scrambling back down towards pitch 7 but then left and down to right; following down slot to walking track. Track leads back to Halls Gap

FA: Grant Baxter, L Baxx & Stephen Baxter, 19 Sep 2016

Trad 380m, 8
The Tower of Paine
9 Hats Off to Egger
Trad 22m
10 First Blood
Trad 24m
7 Ages Ago
Trad 20m
15 Spirit of the Anzacs
Trad 22m
12 Wallflower
Trad 24m
14 Inklings of Glory
Trad 21m
15 Night Shift Blues
Trad 20m
20 My Friend Flicker
Trad 15m
14 Cerro Torre
Trad 15m
Wild Geese Wall
20 The Casting Couch
Trad 16m
Wild Flower Wall
14 Revelations

Scramble up to ledge at foot of distinct, right facing flake crack near right end of cliff. Up this to overhang, step left, up vague muggy line above.

Set by Barry Edwards & Bill Andrews, 1977

Trad 25m
Blockbuster Buttress
16 Blockbuster
Trad 30m
13 Split the Difference
Trad 30m
10 Duplo
Trad 20m
11 Technic
Trad 20m
9 Happy Meal
Trad 20m
15 Breakfast at Macka's
Trad 20m
13 Regurgitator
Trad 20m
14 Tumbledown
Trad 30m
12 Big Mac
Trad 20m
13 Slap and Tickle
Trad 35m
Crock Wall
7 Ponsonby's Crack

2m R of Yin and Yang. Up over the boulder into the chimney that takes a direct line to the top.

FA: John Fisher & Jonathan Bloomfield, 1983

Trad 27m
6 Yang

As for Yin but take the chimney on the R.

FA: John Fisher & Jonathan Bloomfield, 1983

Trad 27m
6 Yin

2mR of Gelati Crumble. Move up the crack past the gum tree and over the overhang. Then move up the L chimney on good holds. 12.11.83

FA: John Fisher & Jonathan Bloomfield, 1983

Trad 27m
7 Gelati Crumble

The thin crack 2m R of Dodgem Delight. Continue up veering R to move up the crack between Dodgem Delight and Yang and follow R side of buttress to top.

FA: John Fisher solo, 1983

Trad 27m
9 Dodgem Delight

5m R of Barabajagal. Start at a short wall with a couple of reachy moves. Up the ramp to the base of a bottomless chimney to the top

FA: Ceri Law & Bill Andrews, 1981

Trad 28m
10 Ringtail

Start up Dodgem Delight. Step left at the bush at the top of the first wall and follow the corner above.

FA: Bill Andrews & Ceri Law, 1981

Trad 28m
15 Barabajagal

The first main line on the R hand of the orange rock. Up past a small tree, layback off the creaking hold, past another tree then the line to the top

FA: Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1981

Trad 30m
16 Shuper Sheet

The buttress left of Barabajagal with sparse protection

Trad 28m
9 Frank Nugan's Hand

4m L of Barabajagal. Up the block onto the front of the buttress and into the chimney. Bridge wide then climb the L wall for a few metres stepping L to finish at the top.

FA: Peter Watling & Bill Andrews

FFA: 1981

Trad 39m
9 Major Mitchell's Minor Chimney

2m L of Frank Nugans Hand. Up the crack into the chimney , at the choss move L and up over some blocks.

FA: Bill Andrews & Ceri Law, 1981

Trad 29m
17 Shuper

Climb the crack between Major Mitchell’s Minor Chimney and Deshperado. Move R from the bollard then climb the buttress direct.

FA: Peter Martin & Ed Steenbergen, 1991

Trad 25m
14 Deshperado

2m L of Major Mitchell’s Minor Chimney. Up the wall on the L of the crack step R below the bollard and up the R hand crack into the chimney. Up past the tree and easily onwards.

FA: Allan Hope & Bill Andrews, 1983

Trad 25m
20 Shuper Duper

Starts as for Deshperado. Move L from the bollard and up the wall.

FA: Steve Jones & Peter Martin 21.3.91, 1991

Trad 22m
18 Precarious

2m L of Deshperado. Up to the roof, over it and then the crack.

FA: Allan Hope & Bill Andrews, 1983

FFA: Allan Hope, 1984

Trad 20m
15 The Nose and Tina

As for Dynomotive but at the ledge step R onto the arete and follow flakes up steep face, being wary of loose blocks. 12.11.83

FA: Kieran Loughran, Paul Horne & Heather Phillips, 1983

Trad 20m
16 Dynomotive

The black streak 3m L of Precarious is thin and unprotected. Up the streak to a ledge at 6m then the corner on the R hand end of the ledge.

FA: Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1981

Trad 23m
18 Portrait of Dorian Gray

Starts 2m L of Dynomotive. Up to gain a jug in the middle of the face and on to the ledge. An unprotected bouldery problem that could do with a bolt. Up just R of Crocks Alley (it's a struggle to stay out of that climb).

FA: Bill Andrews & Allan Hope, 1983

Trad 27m
8 Crocks' Alley

1m L of Portrait Of Dorian Gray. Up the crack and wall, bypass the bush on the R and regain the crack. 25.4.81

FA: Ceri Law & Bill Andrews, 1984

Trad 23m
Point Sunshine
6 Ghost Rope Arete
Trad 20m
16 Red Herring
Trad 30m
13 Echidna
Trad 40m
8 Sundance Kid
Trad 40m
12 Sundance Kid Direct Start
Trad 8m
19 Spend a Penny
Trad 45m
12 The Noonday Sun
Trad 33m
24 Morning Glory
Trad 40m
16 Ayesha
Trad 48m
21 1921
Trad 45m
11 Locust Wing
Trad 32m
17 Harsh Reality
Trad 40m
13 Cicada
Trad 33m
The Lower Goon
12 Hedgehog
Trad 25m
19 Modern Dancing
Trad 25m
19 Modern Dancing Direct Finish
Trad 25m
21 Jumping Jack Flash
Trad 30m
16 The Voyage of the Beagle
Trad 30m
20 The Transit of Venus
Trad 30m
18 The Ascent of Everest
Trad 30m
15 In Other Words
Trad 27m
14 The One Bangla Missed
Trad 25m
19 Wayne Gardener
Trad 26m
16 Sic Transit Gloria
Trad 26m
18 Thine Eyes
Trad 30m
10 The Voyage of Dum Tweedle
Trad 25m
13 An Attack of the Thunders
Trad 25m
13 The Harry Secombe Memorial Buttress
Trad 40m
15 Secret Men's Business
Trad 30m
16 Rounders
Trad 23m
19 Without Oxygen
Trad 23m
The Upper Goon
13 Moriarty
Trad 25m
13 The Invisible Acrobat
Trad 30m
18 Smiley's Rumoured to Have Done It
Trad 20m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 279 routes.