Routes as trad in Northern Wonderland Range

The moves at the first bolt are much harder since some holds have been shed. This is followed by some excellent pocket pulling, however it's hard not to escape some of the hard moves up higher. Some wires protect the climbing after the 4th bolt.

The awe inspiring crack thru' the orange roof with the big guano streaks beneathe it clearly visible from Halls Gap. Originally a fierce and intimidating aid climb on rotten rock, even more terrifying now it is free. Can be done as a mixed route at about 18 M4 for those who like exposed aid climbing.

Start: 3m R of 'Mocha'

1. 35m (25) Thin crack to rotten ramp. From a small alcove above a bolt climb steep and strenuous crack past scary block to another bolt. Travers 10m R on poor rock to large ledge.

2. 30m (26) L then up corner to roof [hanging belay taken here on first ascent]. Traverse L along break 2m below roof and around nose to hard mantle. Back R to rest below roof. Climb roof and up.

Start: 35m R of Manolette. There is a prominent L leaning diagonal crack high up below capping ceiling.

1. 35m (22) Undercut start, then up and R. Up L around bulge to corner. Up this to DBB with FHs.

2. 30m (24) 'Diagonal' crack L under roof then up easily.

The striking line of the crag. Complex moves through pockets, crimps and pebbles on near perfect rock. Bring stick clip for the bolt off the deck with good gear the rest of the way. Size 4,3,2 cams for anchor up top work nicely if you’re creative.

An attractive variation on The Force etc Up as for TFJUTF then continue up wall on R past 2 FH to belay as for TFJUTF.

Steep flake crack 2m R of FD leads up and slightly R to a ledge. Climb steep crack in arête and face above.

1 RB at the (desperate) start then black chimney/groove to anchors on Sprung.

50m R of Jonah, a narrow buttress immediately R of a body chimney. Up middle of face then finish up L arete. Sustained and fiddley to protect. A bit artificial avoiding the ledge off R at half height.

Explosive moves on pockets on supurb rock. Start up BiP, R up line, step R onto wall and up.

Good climbing on nice rock. Seam starting from boulder 8m R of KK. From ledge finish easily up wall above.

Starts as for Deshperado. Move L from the bollard and up the wall.

Start: 70m R of KA below a L leading diagonal above large boulders. [I was on the first ascent and I couldn't find it again when I looked recently! PA)

1. 15m (12) Up to diagonal roof.

2. 15m (20) Up diagonally L to past ledge to scoop. Abseil descent from here. I think we originally thought it might go all the way to the top.

Not bad.

Start: 60m R of TR is a flake crack with an overhanging start.

1. 37m (20) Easily up to roof [possible to scramble up and belay here]. Through roof [crux] and up crack to shallow scoop. R and up chimney.

2. 25m (13) Up wide line as for Trog.

Thin, with spaced pro. Take small cams. Up slabby left arete of Socrophilliac for 12m to break (#4 cam), right 2m above break along thin, horizontal crack almost into Socrophiliac, then delicately to ledge. Left arete and over bulge.

A nice route. Start at the base of Pig Tail. Edge right, then up and traverse right to the dubious block on the arête. Continue around right and up.

The arête right of Sang Kyu Bai is hard and unprotected at the top.

Hard graft. Two thin parallel cracks 7m R of AS. Above bulge go up R arete to ledge. Finish up thin crack directly above.

Exciting climbing on beautiful pocketed rock. Up thin crack 2m R of MWHW, then pair of steep pocketed lines above and to L.

Devious, unprotected and committing. Start up steep pocketed wall immediately R of RIU. Continue up vague line until 4m below enormous chockstone. Step R below bulge to groove immediately R of arete. Up this to crack forming R side of chockstone. Up crack and buttress above.

Superb face climbing with a trying start [very small cams]. From block climb seam between NSA and RL. Cont up easier L leaning crack then up wall above veering L to finish R of NSA

Used to be considered a classic, but seems to have got a lot more lichenous over the years. Surprisingly steep. The first 2 pitches can be run together and there are abseil chains at the top of them.

Start: Initialled line 30m R of The Force etc.

1. 12m (18) Corner then R onto sloping ledge. Up crack and corner to sentry box then R to small ledge.

2. 13m (19) Climb the twin cracks to a chimney. Up this to chains.

3. 30m (12) Up chimney to blockage. Out R and up to large ledge. Crack through overhang and up.

Crack 4m right of Socrophiliac to break, right and up over bulge on arete to ledge. L to crack, up to short traverse into Socrophiliac.

Has the right number of bolts, but they are not in the right places. I imagine this was bolted on lead. With a bit of a clean and bolt rationalisation could make a good route. 2m L pf PS. Unprotected moves up L to first bolt, thin moves up past another bolt to mossy ledge. Up past another bolt to a friable unprotected bulge with a bolt after the hard moves. Up to knobbly wall [#0.5 cam] and on to large ledge with DBB. [also possible to duck R to ES belay]

Looks bold and scary. 2a] R 2m from shallow scoop on 'Fiddler' then up and L 5m to easier ground. Up.

Thin crack direct to reach main crack.

From the base of Pig Tail step 1½m right to the incipient crack. Up.

Don't meltdown on this one! In the centre of the wall opposite Pig Tail (ie to the east) is a thin incipient crack that doesn't reach the ground and stops at the first bulge. Start at the small ramp immediately to the left of this thin crack. Step up and right into the crack and then power directly up the wall above. More problematic than it looks.

Sustained face 5m R of EG to ledge, then easier.

Sustained face climbing. Up black groove 2m R of PB. From ledge finish up wall above

Steep stuff. Start up L slanting crack/groove 2m R of Scallywag. Step R and follow thin crack to bulge. Pull over this then up to ledge. Finish easily up face above.

Exciting positions. 70m R of the LH end of main part of the Southern Cliff is a huge cleft with a an enormous chockstone above it in the highest section of cliff [landmark]. Up cleft for 6m, then take ramp up L wall until it peters out at a small yellow niche. Traverse 2m L then up groove.

Good face climbing. Start off huge boulder below ceiling 35m R of Canakkale and 35m L of Ramping It Up. Step R on to lip of overhang, then up and R to weakness leading to easier upper wall.

Strenuous and exciting. Corner below roof near L end of cliff. Traverse R to arête. Steeply up and slightly L into groove and on.

Starts 2m L of Dynomotive. Up to gain a jug in the middle of the face and on to the ledge. An unprotected bouldery problem that could do with a bolt. Up just R of Crocks Alley (it's a struggle to stay out of that climb).

2m L of Deshperado. Up to the roof, over it and then the crack.

Looks loose and daunting. Take big pro.

Start: 5m R of 'Nemesis'.

1. 30m (18) Corner crack with 2 overhangs. L above second overhang to top of P2 of 'Nemesis'.

2. 30m (17) 'Arete' on poor rock.

1m R of Snail Trail. Up to and up flake, then step right and up easier line.

Sustained and worthwhile. Thin buttress 6m R of TK, between chimney and gully. Rib to L leading seam, then R leaning crack which them dog-legs back L.

A very good sustained little number. Located on the Garden Gnome, the free standing pinnacle at the L end of cliff. Thin corner crack, then steep stuff.

Bolted, featured black streak in the centre of wall. Retrobolted, but crux bolt is still old and dodgy. Take some wires, slings, medium cams to supplement bolts. No anchor - top out or diagonal across to anchor on Sprung after 2nd last bolt.

Attractive thin crack on R side of wall 2m R of OO. Easier climbing above ledge.

Tiered, R leading crack. Up short L facing corner beside block then traverse L to line. Up

Climb the crack between Major Mitchell’s Minor Chimney and Deshperado. Move R from the bollard then climb the buttress direct.

The 2nd pitch is a good sustained corner. Worth doing. Started originally as for 'Karen Alexander' but the first pitch of that climb is so mossy now that it is best avoided. The first pitch is just a way to get to the corner.

Start: 22m R of 'Dedication'. A big L facing corner leading to a roof.

1. 30m (15) Up crack 8m L of the initials KA. Follow this until the angle eases and it is possible to traverse R on a mossy ledge to an easy corner. Up this to the foot of the main steep corner.

2. 31m (17) Corner to roof, traverse R under this to ledge.

3. 25m (6) Up easily.

P2 takes the dirty mossy arete out R of BGs corner. P1 is filthy, hard and poorly protected.

Start: 8m R of BG. Initialled

1. 31m (17) Up to overhang at 5m. Hard unprotected moves R ward around this and up steep groove to terrace. Move R and up to the foot of the big corner as for BG.

2. 31m (17) Head out R from corner and up wall to meet overhang at its lip. Does not look like fun and is probably unrepeated.

3. 25m (-) Up easily

Starts 2m R of chimney. Up steep wall then crack.

Great climbing. 35m right of At Play in the Fields of the Lord. Crack up front of narrow buttress then thin crack in upper block.

Delicate and run-out finish. Up B&B for 3m. Up flake on R, then up and R on face, then up and L to finish

Beyond the LH end of the wall with the bolted sport routes are 3 deep old fashioned cracks. This is the LH one in a R facing corner. A good steep exercise in awkward jamming and bridging technique. [This route was shown as being The Good Soldier Schwiek in the Select Guide]

Start 3 m left of arete. Incuts to join original route at end of ramp.