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Showing 1 - 100 out of 202 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Oven Wall
17 A Bun in the Oven

Cairned. The black buttress which is undercut on its right side and with a smooth orange wall below an overlap; near the middle of the cliff. Step up right from easy line on left, and then up (easing significantly).

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter & Tony Maasakkers, 1993

Trad 25m
The Pyramid
10 Irate Depositors

This is the loose, hollow, blocky line in the middle of the cliff.

FA: Tim Burke & Stephen Hamilton, 1991

Trad 13m
25 Cheops

Starts 2m right of Irate Depositors. Well worth doing. Climb the wall past a bolt, through an overhang and up the corner past a fixed wire. Continue up the flake and wall above past another bolt.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, 1991

Trad 16m
Musbury Crags
21 Space Cadets

owards the top of the descent gully at the left end of the cliff is an easy corner. A tricky layback with just sufficient protection. Climb the slabby wall then the seam just left of this. (Take a 5RP for use at half height).

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 1991

Trad 10m
16 Breadknife Rib

About 20m left of Face Dancers, half way up the descent track is a rib sticking out from the crag. It forms a corner with an orange wall, with an oval boulder on top. Up face 2m left of corner, past a small flake and onto the “Breadknife”. Up until it joins the corner, step onto the right face, and bridge up.

FA: David Witham & Lachlan Witham, 1987

Trad 18m
17 Land Rights for Gay Whales

Something for everyone. Climb the major yellow corner 8m down right of Space Cadets. Finish up the left arête then the groove. Pass three bolts en route.

FA: Tim Burke & Chris Baxter, 1991

Trad 13m
14 Classic Corner

The corner about 10-15m left of Face Dancers.

FA: David Witham & Lachlan Witham, 1987

Trad 20m
12 Face Dancers

Starts on the left side of the left but- tress at a large tree. Up the wall to a ledge and over an “overlap” to some flakes which lead diagonally up left. Up the wall just right of the arête.

FA: David Witham (solo), 1981

FFA: Bill Andrews & Heather Phillips, 1983

Trad 27m
15 Sliding Dog Sandwich

Starts about 12m right of Face Danc- ers just left of Cosy Corner. Gain the flake just left of the corner and follow it for 5m, move right and up the wall to the arête which is followed to the top.

FA: Allan Hope, Bill Andrews, Ceri Law & Heather Phillips, 1984

Trad 24m
12 Cosy Corner

The prominent corner between Sliding Dog Sandwich and the descent gully.

FA: Bill Andrews & Heather Phillips, 1983

Trad 17m
16 Cottees Conserve

Climb the last crack (going right at 7m) before the boulder on the north side of the descent gully.

FA: Julian Oldmeadow & John Murphy, 1992

Trad 12m
14 White Crow

This climb follows the obvious stepped corner that starts 5m right of the de- scent gully. At the arête easy climbing leads to a small tree.

FA: Bill Andrews, Heather Phillips, Allan Hope & Ceri Law, 1984

Trad 24m
15 White Crow Superdirect Finish

This must be some new meaning of the phrase “superdirect” that I am not familiar with. The shallow groove above the mid-point of the diagonal traverse. A direct start would make for an independent climb.

FA: David Schirra & Chris Baxter, 1990

Trad 15m
11 Pointless

We all make mistakes. The arête and crack just right of White Crow. Finish on the first ledge and wonder why you bothered.

FA: Bill Andrews & Allan Hope, 1984

Trad 17m
14 Norwegian Blue

Starts about the middle of the right hand buttress at a widish crack. This is followed to a good ledge. Move left and up the arête (as led) or just right of it (as seconded, grade 16).

FA: Bill Andrews & Heather Phillips, 1983

Trad 20m
17 Camping It Up

Short but committing layback. Scram- ble up to ledge with tree on the right side of the right hand buttress. Climb the distinctive thin right leaning flake above.

FA: Chris Baxter & David Schirra

Trad 20m
Base Camp Buttress
16 Altitude Sickness

An attractive line with a dramatic finish which looks much harder than it is. The original write up gave the route as being 15m and only covered the top half of the climb. As there is no easy way of accessing the top half I have added a start. The route takes the right-facing, right-leaning corner in the upper half of the LH buttress. There is a gully in the middle of the LH cliff which leads up to this line. Scramble 6m up this to belay below the first steep rock. Climb cracks towards the LH side of the gully with an awkward exit to the foot of a R leading ramp. Up the ramp to the headwall. L and up to gain the corner then up this.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter & Tony Maasakkers, 1993

Trad 26m
17 The Height of Stupidity

The RH cliff is about 60m R of Altitude Sickness. It has a steep compact central buttress bounded on the L by a corner. Start 3m L of this corner. Up loose slabby face following dirty cracks to deep crack/groove in steep headwall. Up this on suspect rock to finish up easier groove above. An unpleasant experience all round.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 30 Jan 2016

Trad 22m
12 Camp 4

The corner R of THofS. Start down R and finish up a narrow chimney.

FA: Jerry Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 30 Jan 2016

Trad 22m
17 Pulmonary Oedema

R of Camp 4 is a steep clean buttress with 2 good deep crack lines. Left crack. Above the difficulties step out L and up the short steep face. A couple of large cams around BD#4 size are useful.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter & Tony Massakkers, 1993

Trad 20m
15 Berber Children

The RH crack.

FA: Chris Baxter, Stephen Hamilton & Tony Massakkers, 1993

Trad 20m
Punter's Pinnacle
9 Was It Worth It?

L arête of main slab, starting from boulder.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2008

Trad 12m
12 Moment Of Truth

Start as for 'Rush'. Then left into 'Burden Of Proof'.

FA: Grant Baxter, 21 Sep 2015

Trad 11m
12 Burden of Proof

No chimneying required! Major L.facing chimney bounding R side of main slab.

FA: Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 2008

Trad 15m
19 Chinese Whispers

Good crack. Up R from foot of BP to undercut crack in R wall of BP. Up this and the line above.

FA: Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 2008

Trad 15m
20 Pick a Winner

Exciting climbing in an excellent position up the L arête of the pillar. Climb seam 1m R of CW and go up R to arête. Straight up this, R of CW all the way.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2008

Trad 15m
14 Punt Road

Nice positions. From foot of big, R.facing corner on R side of pillar, go up and L to arête. Up cracks in this.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2008

Trad 15m
15 Pay the Price

Dramatic finish. From foot of Punt Road, go up big, R.facing corner for 6 m. L in horizontal break to crack. Up, finishing steeply.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2008

Trad 16m
10 The Home Straight

trad Major, R.facing corner bounding R side of the pillar. (Pay the Price starts up HS.)

FA: Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 2008

Trad 15m
17 The Tote

Clean, smooth, R.leaning corner.crack on ‘back’ (E) side of Punters Pinnacle. Finish on R wall.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2008

Trad 10m
16 The Sketchy Artist

FA: L Baxx, 17 Sep 2016

Trad 15m
11 Mr Prez

FA: L Baxx, 17 Sep 2016

Trad 15m
15 Mr Prez [Variant Finish]

FA: L Baxx, 17 Sep 2016

Trad 15m
Eclipse Buttress
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Town Slab
19 (Unnamed)

Takes the line following the distinctive right leading arch/overhang. Sustained and thin. The best outing on the cliff. Possibly originally aided sometime in the past.

  1. 30m 19 Undercling up and out R [old peg runner]. Climb more easily up the corner above to the cave under the final arch.

  2. 20m 10. Up and off R, or step L and follow diagonal up L.

RH Finish: Kelvin Longhurst, Ian Ravenscroft (alt) mid 1980s. LH Finish: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns. (alt) 13.3.89

FA: Kelvin Longhurst & Ian Ravenscroft

Trad 50m, 2
19 Grand Slam

The next line to the R. A steep layback start.

  1. 25m 19. The line to the ledge with a tree.

  2. 20m 9. Easy slabby wall.

FA: David Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1989

Trad 45m
17 Birthday Boy

The next line to the R. Dirty.

  1. 25m 17. Up the line to where final thin moves lead to a bushy ledge and tree.

  2. 20m Easy slabby wall to top.

FA: Chris Baxter & David Gairns, 1989

Trad 45m
18 All Shook Up

The next line R is also very dirty. Good moves to start then easing. Curve R to finish at tree.

FA: David Gairns, Chris Baxter & Jack Lewis, 1989

Trad 40m
10 Jack's Crack

L leaning flake crack at RH end of cliff. From ledge walk off R or go up little corner above.

FA: Jack Lewis, Chris Baxter & David Gairns, 1989

Trad 25m
Boulder Rock
12 Chip off the Old Block

Below Boulder Rock is a short wall leading up to below overhangs. The crack up this wall then traverse around R to below Time Warp.

FA: Chris Baxter. Stephen Hamilton

Trad 25m
17 Warped

Takes the line with a steep thin start L of Time Warp. Looks much harder than 17 and unprotected.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Peter Lindorff & Jerry Maddox, 1982

Trad 20m
19 Time Warp

The steep dogleg offwidth crack is quite a struggle. Take BD 3s and 4s.

  1. 18m Straight up the crack, through bulges, then onto a small stance.

  2. 7m Up easy rock to the top.

FA: Kim Carrigan & John Chapman, 1974

Trad 25m, 2
3 Access Route

Easy access up the back of route. Large corner with bulges on easy terrain. Good for setting up anchors at top and for abseil/top rope access to cliff.

Trad 7m
The Garrets
17 The Larque Ascending

Good varied little climb. Crack 10m R of L end of cliff.

FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter & Pia Larque, 2007

Trad 12m
17 High Sally Tations

Start at the obvious holds and features on the steep wall 10m R of LA. Up to bulge near top then R below this to finish straight up.

FA: Peter Cunningham & Glen Donohue, 2007

Trad 12m
18 Anniversary Wall

Steep and bold face climbing. Pull on to the wall at the small cave 6m R of High Sally Tations and 3m L of R arête of face. Up and L past three breaks to finish as for HST. More logically start at the holds 4m R of High Sally etc then up and L as above.

FA: Wayne Maher & Chris Baxter, 2008

Trad 12m
12 Vulpine Behaviour

Unexpectedly straightforward, this climb has uniquely featured holds. Pull up on to the undercut face 3m R of AW, on arête. Up and slightly R to ledge. Step L and climb L side of arête.

FA: Chris Baxter, Pia Larque & Wayne Maher, 2008

Trad 12m
18 Leif

About 30m R of the LH end of cliff is a major broken corner. Up steep L leaning crack 10m R of this [rotten rock]. At top of crack traverse 3m L to small corner, up this.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2006

Trad 15m
14 A Date with Destiny

Up to and up steep R.facing flake starting 1m R of Leif. Finish straight up.

FA: Chris Baxter & Wayne Maher, 2008

Trad 12m
15 Freeze Dried

Undercut, gung-ho start from beside old fairy martins’ nests (landmark) 10m R of DD, then face above, moving very slightly R. The large starting holds are decidedly suspect.

FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter & Pia Larque, 2008

Trad 12m
15 Behind the Iron Curtain

Thin crack with R leading flake heading out of it. Climb the thin crack.

FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 2006

Trad 10m
12 Travel Bug

The R leading flake starting as for BTIC.

FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 2006

Trad 12m
18 Housemaid's Knee

Start just R of TB. Pull over bulge then climb vague rib between BTIC and TB.

FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter & Pia Larque, 2007

Trad 10m
17 Rocket Science

Sustained and fingery face-climbing up the pair of L-leaning seams 5 m R of the major, broken corner which, in turn, is 5 m R of Travel Bug. Pronounced bulge at 5 m.

FA: Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 2008

Trad 12m
16 No Vacancy in Paris

Near RH end of ledge a diagonal line leads up R under overlaps. Follow this to vertical crack [TT]. Cont. up R in thin diagonal to vertical corner, finish up this.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 2006

Trad 12m
16 Throwing in the Towel

3m R of NVP. Up to and up short vertical crack, turn rooflet above and cont up pimply seam.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 2006

Trad 10m
16 Blind Date

Start at steep flakes round the arête and 12m R of Throwing in the Towel (2m R of eucalypt), then L up ramp. One of the better routes of the cliff, quite varied and interesting.

FA: Chris Baxter, Pia Larque & Wayne Maher, 2008

Trad 12m
Superbia
21 The End Of Superbia

Start as for Bella and climb to 2nd bolt, then delicately left across hanging slab and up wall on good natural pro, veering R slightly towards the top.

FA: Goshen Watts & Andrew Glover, 22 May 2016

Mixed 20m, 2
20 Bella

The L hand of the bolted lines on the main wall. A hard start past a fixed hanger then up past 2 U-Bolts and some natural pro (recommended) to a chain abseil anchor on the L.

FA: Jeremy Boreham, Wayne Maher & Isaac Boreham, 14 Mar 2015

Mixed 18m, 3
20 No Expectations

20m right of Test Run are a couple of faces. The right hand one has a slab leading up to a shallow left facing corner. Up the face and the corner to a hard, steep exit.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 4 Apr

Trad 14m
Suburbia
20 Desperate Housewifes

Good sustained climbing. A bit runout, take small gear. Climb diagonal finger crack above block at foot of upper L end of cliff. Now boldly up and diagonally R

FA: Jen Stone, Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 2006

Trad 17m
19 House Proud

Steep and exciting climbing on positive holds. Start 3m down and R of DH. Climb steep wall then finish up the blunt arête above between DH and CR.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2006

Trad 19m
19 Cash-register Classics

Tricky start to gain the main line of the cliff. Up to small overhang 2m R of HP, R to line, then up and L in line.

FA: Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 2006

Trad 21m
19 Retrofitting the Suburbs

Links together possibly the cleanest rock on the cliff. Starts as for CRC at reachy R leading overlap. R into line, up, then take tricky R leading line across wall for 5m. Then straight up wall, finishing up blunt arete.

FA: Goshen Watts, 21 May 2016

Trad 20m
16 The Green Belt

Major diagonal line immediately L of small cave at foot of face 20m R of CC. Balancy start then seam to bulge. Continue up L leaning line to exit gully.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter & Jen Stone, 2006

Trad 23m
17 Backyard Blitz

Major diagonal line starting 5m R of GB. Committing unprotected start up seam then sustained diagonal line to join Sparks Victoria at its large tree. A better protected option is to start up Sparks Vic then step L into BB at 4m. Probably grade 16 done this way.

FA: Stehen Hamilton, Chris Baxter & Zoe Hamilton, 2006

Trad 23m
15 Sparks Victoria

Major diagonal line finishing above large tree. Up crack 3m R of BB and immediately L of recessed yellow wall at R end of cliff. Line to tree. Up

FA: Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 2006

Trad 23m
Black Wall
19 A Cup of Tea, a Bex and a Good Lie Down.

Sustained corner at RH end of face. Exit R at top to avoid loose block.

FA: Chris Baxter & David Gairns, 2007

Trad 12m
Mt Ida
11 Samosa

At the LH end of the Northern Cliff, 2.5m R of a blocky arête. Follow short corners and cracks up and R to a final steep crack/flake. Up this to top.

FA: Philip Armstrong & David Lia 8/03/2015

Trad 13m
14 North West Frontier

5m R of Samosa, a short L facing corner crack starting above a bulge. Up to and up the corner. The bulge below the corner has seen some rockfall recently making the route unstable and best avoided.

FA: Philip Armstrong & David Lia, 17 Jan 2015

Trad 12m
10 Papadum

4m R of NWF. Up the RH of the twin chimneys. Be careful of loose blocks.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 15 Mar 2015

Trad 12m
14 Daal Masala

Just R of Papadum. Up shallow corner on the R wall of the RH chimney exiting R into steep seam at the top.

FA: Peter Cody & Jerry Maddox, 17 Jan 2015

Trad 13m
15 Onion Bahji

3m R of Papadum chimney is a shallow L facing groove. Up to and up groove. Finish up wall past FH.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 4 Apr 2015

Mixed 18m, 1
13 Emu Kebab

1m R of Onion Bahji a narrow buttress protrudes from the cliff. Up the L side of the buttress, finishing with nice climbing up the thin cracks in the headwall directly above.

FA: Peter Cody, David Lia & Philip Armstrong, 15 Mar 2015

Trad 15m
10 Rajputana Rifles

A good introductory jam crack. Down and R 6m from Emu Kebab. A clean deep hand crack up a block.

FA: Philip Armstrong, David Lia & Peter Cody, 15 Mar 2015

Trad 9m
12 Kukri

Directly behind RP or uphill 6m from Emu Kebab. Up and L to short wide crack. Up [BD#4 useful]

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 4 Apr 2015

Trad 10m
14 Gurkha

Start as for Kukri. A line leading to a deep hand jam crack in a shallow R facing groove. Approach upper crack from the L to avoid large possibly detached blocks. Awkward move to get into jam crack.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 15 Mar 2015

Trad 10m
5 Set Menu No.1

The easy option. Along the top of the cliff between the Northern Cliff and the descent gully to the Main Cliff is an isolated block. Up to and up the easy chimney on the Northern face.

FA: Philip Armstrong & David Lia, 3 Apr 2015

Trad 9m
12 Punjab

3m R of Set Menu. Up the bulging crack on the front [West face] of this block

FA: Philip Armstrong & David Lia, 11 Jan 2015

Trad 10m
12 Lassi

This is the LH line on the narrow easy angled buttress leading to a steeper headwall. Up the L side of the buttress and finish up the LH crack.

FA: Peter Cody Philip Armstrong, 25 Mar 2015

Trad 9m
12 Mango Chutney

Up 1m R of Lassi to finish up the RH crack.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 25 Mar 2015

Trad 9m
14 Naga Hills

Around R of MC. 1m R of the arête are some protruding holds. Up holds and slightly R to finish up middle of headwall. Quite good short route.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 25 Mar 2015

Trad 11m
12 Mysore

5m R of Naga Hills. A flake crack leading to an obvious deep jam crack in the upper half.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 15 Mar 2015

Trad 10m
15 Lahore

The line 3m R of Mysore

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 15 Mar 2015

Trad 10m
11 Steamed Rice

3m R of Lahore. Up to and up short L leading groove

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 25 Mar 2015

Trad 9m
11 Saffron Rice

Start as for SR then head up and R into next groove and up this.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 25 Mar 2015

Trad 9m
9 Rogan Josh

From the saddle where the cairn is head around the L end of the gully cliffs and follow the cliff line L about 15m to a short orange corner with a striking arête to its L. Up the corner to a large ledge. Finish up short steep crack.

FA: Philip Armstrong & David Lia, 3 Apr 2015

Trad 9m
13 Koala Curry

From 3m L of Bellview Heights and on the same face head up to and up a series of cracks and flakes. Varied and fun.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 15 Mar 2015

Trad 15m
17 Bellview Heights

From the bottom of the descent walk R 10m to below the first major buttress. A steep left-facing groove left of orange overhangs. Some suspect holds above crux bulge. Finish up wall.

FA: David Karia & Stephen Hamilton, 1993

Trad 15m
19 Smokestack Lightnin’

5m R of BH. Easily up onto detached flakes. Clip FH and step R. Up and L to groove and up this past FH. Finish up wall to R of flake [wires and small cams].

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 4 Apr 2015

Mixed 15m, 2
17 Uttar Pradesh

R of the Bellview Heights buttress is a bay with a corner crack on each side. The LH corner crack is wide and strenuous.

FA: Jerry Maddox, Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 17 Jan 2015

Trad 15m
13 Cup of Tea

The RH corner crack is surprisingly pleasant.

FA: Jen Stone & Chris Baxter, 2003

Trad 15m
19 Northern Exposure

Undercut crack on front of buttress 5m R of CofT. Desperate start leads to good upper wall. A good grade 17 variant is to start around the R arête and climb out L easily onto ledge then finish up top wall.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & David Karla, 1993

Trad 15m
17 Generational Shift

Up to and up the steep crack around the R arête from Northern Exposure. Finish up L arête at top.

FA: Chris Baxter & Jen Stone, 2003

Trad 15m
13 Palak Paneer

The dirty corner just R of GS

FA: Peter Cody, Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 17 Jan 2015

Trad 15m
9 Delhi Belly

2m L of the nice crack of Mughlay is a deep chimney. Up this.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 11 Apr 2016

Trad 10m
14 Mughlay

8m R of Palak Paneer and 2m R of the chimney crack of Delhi Belly is a lovely clean crack. Up this and short wall above.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Peter Cody & Jerry Maddox, 17 Jan 2015

Trad 11m
15 Coat of Arms

2m R of Mughlay, a couple of nice face moves past 2FH. 18/5/2015

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 18 May 2015

Mixed 10m, 2

Showing 1 - 100 out of 202 routes.