Routes as sport in Mount Alexandra

First route on the beginners slab. Easy clipping ledges to learn the art of leading. Anchors above the last big ledge to allow for cleaning practice.

The second route as you walk in, located on the slab used by pesky abseilers. Bolted for the beginner leader and for the short (or more accurately a six year olds height.)

The second route you come to. Tricky start then nice moves thru bulge without using the cave. Then a walk to the anchors.

Looks OK, but everyone says its crap. Get on it, and judge for yourself. Hard to clean, best to get someone to 2nd it.

Start: Start: 2m left of SE

Tricky moves on sandy holds to exit the first cave then a powerful move above the third. Straight up on jugs to the anchors.

Clip 1st bolt of DOANCS, surmount the bulge,move right to mini arete, clip bolt then move into litte closed corner then up through steepness to anchors. As for 'Death Of A New Car Salesman' Bouldery crux around the mini arete to steep climbing on pockets and jugs

A nice line, a bit tricky to clip the 2nd bolt. Up past 5 RBs to U anchor lower off. Stiff at 20 (could be 21), but guess who bolted it ?

Start: Start: Behind Tree

Hard at the grade, but nevertheless another fantastic offering by Mr Woodward. Left of DOANCS, below crack. Up to crack (crux) then

up and right to jug. Out roof on jugs to glory. 3 RBs

(2nd is hard to clip), clip double RB anchor on lip then

continue up and right to lower off as for DOANCS.

Sustained !

Climb the first three bolts of Shot of Spirit, then head right, into Progress Comes to Shitsville finishing on the anchor of Death of a New Car Salesman.

Straight up with difficulty down low then fly through the super roof

Excellent sustained route with a technical start and a pumpy steep finish. Climb Electric Gut Stick Gobblers past 4 RBs to horizontal jug under roof, then out right on reachy mega pockets through roof to final move left to big plate and anchor. Watch your butt on the last move, if you fall off you land on the nearby tree!

Graeme reckons it 22, but the locals reckon its aleast 24. Start: Left of PCtS, below round feature.

Up into closed corner and up. Move left and out to double RB on LHdlD.

The Crag Classic !! Solid and sustained wall climbing on good holds. Stand up on tree stump, and power all the way thru to roof. Shake out here and show off with a french blow - punch the roof and into the cave, then move up right wards to clip the anchors.

Clip one of the double rings of LHDLD as a BR and pump right to the anchors. If you clip a long draw at the anchors or stand in the tree you haven't done it

Up first 2 bolts of Los Hermanos and then clip new ring bolt to the left and squeeze through crux here to the nice jugs on Biafra and finish at its anchors

From the anchors on 'Biafra', keep on truckin' past 2 more RBs thru the roof to finish on big jugs and lower offs.

Next to trees near left edge of cave. Use your squiddy (or stick) to clip first RB, then bouldery, powerful moves to a good rest at 3rd RB. Hard moves to 4th RB then EZ steep territory to double RB lower off. 6 RBs in total.

Start between Biafra an Galvanise. Trick start then up flake to break. Then as per G to anchors.

As for Galvanise, but traverse right after 4th RB past another RB and clip the last RB on Biafra, then up to anchors. Good way to get the gear on Biafra.

Start 3m left of B. Nice route or good warmup for the harder stuff in the cave. Stays dry in pouring rain. 5 RB to Lower Offs.

To the right of Galvanise. Undercling to high reach then link RB back into top of Galvanise.

Clip 1st bolt then streno start past 2nd bolt, then blistfull balancey moves past several more RB to anchors. For full value do the extension all that way to top of cliff.

From the anchors on "The Nose in 4 Minutes" , keep on going thru overhung territory and up to anchors on left.

Start up Chook, then move right before the break (long draw here) then pull on to crimpy headwall. Then easily up to anchors...

New FHs in 2000 replaced some only manky bolts. Now a fantastic excursion. Undercut start, then slab to sustained head wall. 5 FHs to lower off.

Straight up the tricky slab (4 RB) and then join Chook at the headwall. Start 2m right of Corner From Hell (4m left of Chook).

Start up the obvious easiest line as for Corner From Hell then wandering right at one third height and balance up the headwall, joining Chicken.

Up obvious corner.

Was previously a trad climb but with dubious pro (and tree belay), now (2012) fully bolted with lower-offs.

Obvious blunt feature, just left of CFH

Bouldery

Start: 10m left of CFH, near tree.

Up past 4 RBs to double RB lower off.

Start: 2m left of S.

Fine short wall to ledge. Beautiful balance moves to last bolt. 4 RBs to lower off on T.

A weird crux section at 3rd bolt (can be avoided on L, don't!). Start at bulgy face with RB's 14m L of CFH. Up to double rings.

Same as 'Trollberg', but at 3rd bolt move to the left and use the crack, then up and back on the climb and continue to anchors.

Start: 2m left of PN.

Haul onto wall, then edge up arete passing 4 RBs. Double RB lower off.

Steep Start up blunt arete as for The Red Room then balance up featured slab to same lower off as The Red Room.

Start 4m L of PN. Up past 5 RB's to Lower offs.

The 3rd route from the right, starting at the arête (Red Room).

A ripper of a climb, great slopey slab climbing. Up the wall following the nice line of RBs up the face, then through the small overlap to anchors.

Start 4m left of VP. Up slab with some nice balancy moves. Move right and cross VP and straight up over rooflet. 5RB to DRB Lower off.

Up Silver Fox past newly added first bolt and up to rock over past the bulge and straight up the headwall to DRB anchors in orange scoop. Start as for Silver Fox Fine balancy climbing just after the start and on to the anchors.

One for the Kiddies Start just left off the corner, up the blunt arete.

Up the arete At arete on the right hand side of the compact wall Thug to block, pull through on finger jugs to balancy finish

3m right of P2 of B. A tough little unit. Up nice compact wall past 2 RBs to DRB lower off.

Use the crack to gain the first bolt. Make a long reach left to great pockets and finish on jugs to the top. Over too soon. Start just left of the crack.

Hard pulls through the scoop. Great jugs to the top. Start below the left hand arete of the sundeck ledge.

Hard pulls through the scoop. Great jugs to the top. Start below the left hand arete of the sundeck ledge.

Several rings to lower off. If you want to access 'Sundeck' clip the lower offs and move past them to double U bolts at the base of 'Piccolo Luna'

Start: Start at inviting looking section of slabbiness.

Start: Up the B gully to the platform to clip the first ringbolt. Pull through overhang then move right (crux). Up past RB's and FH's to lower offs.

This is the furthest right route on the head wall.

Start: Below vege gully and obvious hanging headwall

A nice fingery wall. Up QDS however trend left at overhang to RB on headwall, then up past FH and another RB to same lower off as QDS.

This is the middle line of bolts on the head wall.

Start: Up vege gully as for QDS

Make a move left from the fixed hanger of 'Deception'

The left of the 3 routes on the amazing high headwall Up vege gully as for Deception and QDS Up the leaning yellow corner and step right onto the mini arete and then onto the headwall

Up the short corner. The unnamed Tim Cartwright route 1991.

Start as for 'Quart De Seicle'. Up past vege and then into the steepish short corner. Use the bolts on the left side then finish at the anchors of Alpine ie. trend left at the top after you come out of the corner.

Between Reborn and D. Starts easily up to bulge, hard move on high crimps through bulge and then up the short orange headwall to anchors of D

Start on the RB of "Crimp da buttock"

Using any of the bolts that now cross this route.

Easily up the slab. BR on left (or small wires in the crack for the ethically minded!), then up to small foot ledge (BR on right). Up bulgy corner to the top (crux).

Follow the ring bolts up to the prow up high. Up through the overlaps with a bit of high stepping action, to an almost vertical finish.

A rather rambling, but longer journey up and across the slabs left of 'Alpine'.

Start up 'Alpine' until you see the bolts to the left. Follow to double RB lower off.

Right of Snooze. Pull over two bulges and onto the crack and slab. Romp up the nice looking orange rock to the anchors shared with Snooze. The route starts just left of the bush 2m up, watch the tree when lowering!!

2m right of 'Parents in Pain'. Look for faint blue rectangle painted at head height.

Up to the closed little corner/seam on surprising holds.

This route shares an anchor with "The Gruffalo".

Up the stepped looking arete passing 6RB's to lower offs a little back from the top.

Start: At blunt arete 15 metres left of 'Alpine'

Skip the bulge by heading right, then up to get back on PiP

Start 2 metres left of Parents. Pull through the slot and ramble to the steep all. Keep right on the jugs for a fair grade. Finish at Parents lower offs.

Enter the crumbling ruins that guard the first high bolt. Crux move to second bolt. (Can be avoided by stepping far right.) Ramble through the ledges and moss filled cracks to the fabled city of gold. Fun. Long. Exit from chains on the final ledge. 60m is perfectly fine.

Start under the over hung crack. Lock off in the crack and go for the thank god hold on the lip.

Same start as Pre Pimple Pop but stay right through two caves finishing on technical vertical wall.

A fantastic overhang, one of the most popular routes in the Southern Highlands. Start 7m L of PIP under obvious imposing overhang. Up onto slab via L or R (BR) then through overhang to pull lip (crux) lower off U anchor or continue powering through juggy choss! 5 BR's including U Anchor.

Start 7m L of PIP under the obvious imposing overhang.

Start 2m L of PPP. Named after Tim Cartwright went under Craig Slosses nose and stole his project! Rebolted with 8 rings to lower offs.

Start: Left of Pre 'Pimple' Pop at jugs at track level

Start in small corner L of JE. Absolutely brilliant top moves once you've bumbled over the bulge. 4 new RB to Lower Offs.

Start 15m L of MT at RB. Up to the L to power through overhang and tricky mantle to easy ground. Good buying at 23.

1m left of DA. Boulder start to first RB then up past 3RBs to mantle through to another RB to DRB lower off shared with DA.

The line of rings thru the overlap. Left of 'Manchester United'

Start right of "The Big Day Out" - after a couple of bolts move left under the lip and continue as per BDO

Stick clip first FH. Up wall and clip 2nd, nice rest here b4 a very large reach move to 3rd FH. Continue up head wall past more FH's to chains in cave. New RB's where you need them.

Pure Hill GOLD !! Start 3m L of TBDO (just around the corner). Hard moves to start with then sustained moves to double ring lower off. One of the best routes at MtA.

Up Quickie for the first 4 bolts to the cauliflower finger jug for the clip of the 5th bolt to the right. Trend up and right, negotiate the bulge then towards the arete to DRB LO

Up 'Quickie Quim Fill' and past crux till 4th bolt and camp out on the jug, then move left on great pockets clipping a bolt. Finally enter the crux on 'Suspended Animation' and up to new lower offs.

A fantastic route up a superb line. 3m L of QQ. Stick dip first bolt, batman up to obvious jug, then up the crimpy wall to the crux past the last bolt.

Stem up corner to start then trend right to anchors. Start just left of SA at the green grassy 'gate'. Open the gate !! and pull up the little corner to the pedestal. Edges, slopes and layaways up vertical wall after stepping right from the corner when you can.

Left hand arete of boulder. A tricky start turning into a fun climb on iron stone flakes.

Caution! A hand size block just above the second RB is very loose but not ready to pop out just yet. It sits directly above the best belay position so belayers please move to one side.

Starts in middle of boulder. Three RB to share last bolt and anchors on Posture Correction

Has been re-bolted.

3RB to right hand double bolt lower offs. Start on right side.

Has been re-bolted. Carrots are no longer.

Nice jug pulling start and then up the scoop. Watch out for the band of bad rock at 2/3 height. Start just left of the big tree.

Tiny crimps. Short and sweet.

Short and balancy. will be Ok once the moss wears off a bit! Hard 21.

A brief bulge and then it is slab city. Remember, friends don't let friends do slabs!

Climb up the Arete. Short and Sharp. Originally no protection, soloed by Tim Cartwright, now bolted. Start in the alcove below the Arete.

Rebolted 9/10/2010. Up little closed corner passing 3 RB's and surmount top of corner to clip the the first headwall RB of "Three Wise Monkey's" then step right. Up the tricky start and headwall.

How the boys arrived at grade 17 for this route I don't know?

Newly rebolted so start up the little closed corner as for "El Captain Pants" and straight up the headwall passing a combination of 8 RB's and hangers.

Newly rebolted. Step left after climbing the bolted little corner and up nice orange and featured headwall to lower offs. Beautiful really. Up closed little corner as for "Three Wise Monkeys" Some hold searching required mid height

Up little corner step left and up line of bolts right of Airy not scary. Nice longish moves. Up little bolted corner as for Airy Not Scary Nice moves up flakes, bit of friction when lowering off, unclip some draws on the way down if some else is doing it with the draws in!

Up little bolted corner from ground level and traverse left and up on RB's right of "White Limbo" on the headwall, on holds that you know you just won't let go of. This route finishes up the second last line of rings up the headwall looking right to left above the main cave.Start up bolted closed little corner as for the previous routes

A very nice climb! Start as for WWYSIISTYTTGWL(!) up to clip new RB, one move up then traverse L to BR up into cave as for WL then fire straight up wall to chains.

"Batman" up to obvious good incut holds, then heave up to slab and up headwall as for "Airy Not Scary" Underneath big grey bulge 5 metres right of Project - Simon Vaughan All you need is belief and a little bit of Kung Fu

Start: Left of O, below middle of roof. Stick clip first BR, then dyno and slab up to roof. Out the lovely roof to double RB lower off just over lip. 7 RBs in total.

After heaving up the same start as "Desperate Liasons" head right to get into the obvious hole and slap like a madman to get into the big scoop above and right, up mini arete, then finish up "Airy Not Scary". Hardest thing I have put up

Start: 4m left of DL. Up to 3rd BR, then move right and up past 5 more BRs (stay right) to chain. The last bolt is hard to clip, and is safe to skip on the RP attempt.

Start as for UD (in the middle of the cave), up past a carrot and continue up to the 6th hanger (has mallion attached). Then move left to finish on chain shared with DdF.

last bolt in roof and anchors rebolted 10/02/2019 by Adam Kerz & Phill Lengyel

A good route to get pumped senseless on! Start as for CH, follow the line of bolts that leads you up and left. Milk the rest and traverse up on the lip of the cave past squillions of bolts to chain shared with CH.

Start 3m left of DdF/CH/UD (stick clip advised to join DdF up till 5th BR then go straight ahead past another bolt to join CH.

On the outside wall of the cave

The next one along