Showing all 7 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
25 | Housemaid's Knees
Big corner about 60m north of The Last Wave. corroded gear and rotting flakes FA: giles bradbury & Michael Law, 1980 | 75m | |||
24 | Trendies Corner
they used to tip rubbish includin concrete down here. Line. obvoius hard FA: mikl & greg child, 1981 | 100m | |||
22 | La Technique
rap 35m off the fence (+ backup) sth of Macquarie light and north of Christensen park. rusted bolts and cams FA: Michael Law & paul colyvan | 35m, 5 | |||
23 | OS
as for La Technique then R FA: Michael Law & paul colyvan, 1985 | 35m | |||
20 | Hey Sucker
The home of discount grading. Rap station 15m N of La technique. FA: Michael Law & Paul colyvan, 1985 | 35m | |||
23 | Bladder Control
rap in as for Hey, sucker, then right FA: Michael Law & paul colyvan, 1985 | 25m | |||
22 | ★★ Sydney Sea Cliff Traverse - Trendies Corner
Jacob's Ladder to Rosa Gully (Diamond Bay) The most difficult and sustained section of the traverse. This bit alone involves roughly 150m of height gain and abseils, most of it on fairly bad rock. It is highly committing with multiple diagonal abseils, that once your rope is pulled, you have no option but to continue forwards. Bailing down or up is not an option for a large amount. Some of the roped up pitches can get up to grade 22 or a couple grades easier with a couple of aid moves. Truly an incredible adventure and if you want to really experience all the moods of the cliffs in one big day out (good rock and hard moves mixed with bad rock and easy moves, wave timing rock hoping sprints mixed with high exposure on thin ledges) this is the section for you. Sea Level Traverse - Trendies Corner (2.1km, grade 23 or 19 M1) This has probably got to be one of the longest and consistently cruxy sections of the seacliffs. It passes under some of the biggest and most impressive sections of cliffline. Unlike the South Head section, conditions have to be good but don’t have to be once-a-season perfect. It’s also much less red-hot, this stretch of coastline is about as serious as you can get for a day out in Australian climbing. From the North: Starts at the slot canyon Jacob’s Ladder just north of The Gap. Some slippery chimney moves on bad rock get you down into an easy scree slope. Before gaining water level, take the ledge system to the north about 10m off the water. This is fairly easy going for about 100m before quickly ending and requiring the rope and rack to be whipped out. The best option here is to head up the cliff to the next band of choss before continuing north again, turning the nose of orange rock at the super exposed vegetated layer on the very lip of the roof, about 30-40m above the ocean. Once around this corner rap down off the single screw doing a diagonal traverse. The seconder will need to remove the leaders gear and be pulled in underneath to the big sandy ledge just under the roof (15m down). This ledge system can be traversed north a while longer with a couple of roped up bouldery moves (some screws should protect these moves). Eventually this ledge system turns into a huge cave with a steep sandy floor with a slight track stamped into it. Scrambling around this feels a little like traversing a snow slope and avoiding setting off an avalanche. If this sand decides to “go”, you’ll be going with it, so careful. At its end is a rap station off some Gal screws. A 20-30m diagonal abseil and top rope traverse will get you to the next major ledge system about 15m above the ocean. From this ledge system rap off a single screw and rock hop the boulders for the next 100m. An awkward 5m boulder problem gets you back to higher ground. The next corner is best tackled by going up the thin sandy cracks for 15m. A a lower traverse about 5-7m off the ocean is definetly possible, but far more sustained and tricky climbing. From the upper ledge rap off the single bolt to the boulders below, time the waves and get out of the mouth of the chasm before a monster hits. A couple hundred meters of easy ground gets you to a belly crawl and then you want to start heading up. Decent gear and some hard ish climbing on the second pitch will get you to just under the nuclear bunker. Travserse this major ledge system for 150m passing a bouldery crux (a couple of screws protect this) before rapping down 25m off another single screw to the seal hangout. A tide timing wade is now needed or some ballsy lip traversing to stay on the rock, somewhere in the high teens to low 20”S grade and only 10m off the deck. The final bit of this section is defined by a sandy buttresses that isnt too bad to negotiate. Once past this final buttress you’ll end up in the housemaid’s knee section of cliffline, roughly 500m away from Rosa Gully (and swell permitting) an easy walk. FA: 18 Sep 2022 | 2100m, 15 |
Showing all 7 routes.