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Routes as sport in Central climbing areas

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Showing all 31 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Private sector
12 Pluck a Duck

Start: First line on this section. of cliff.

Up wall past 3 bolts, heading right under bush to belay

FA: Al Stephens & Ben Christian, 1994

Sport 7m, 3
16 Pluck a Duck Direct

Directly up through bulge left of bush.

FA: Gordon Low, 1995

Sport 7m, 3
18 Trajectory

Route no longer exists. See Trajectory direct.

FA: John Lattanzio, 1982

Sport 10m
23 Trajectory Direct

The original line climbed in ‘82, at grade 18, by Jack Latanzio has long since fallen away leaving a much harder, direct, line.

Start: The overhanging dihedral right of P.A.D.

Up technical corner past 2 bolts to pull onto low angled wall (bolt) and up to belay as for Yoda.

FA: Gordon Low, 1997

Maint: 3 Mar 2023

Sport 10m, 3
24 Yoda

Start: Right of Trajectory, three bolts up overhang on jugs to top. Double-bolt belay back up in corner.

FA: Al Stephens, 1994

Sport 10m, 3
24 Crawling King Snake Blues

Start 2m right of HPS following three FH trending right to anchors over lip.

FA: Ben Christian, 1994

Maint: 7 Feb 2023

Sport 12m, 3
22 The Private Sector

Start: On the right hand end of the main wall, 4m right of the Hot Pearl Snatch. One FH is the only protection, although first bolt of CKSB could be used with double ropes?

Up wall to FH, then right and up to top, can use anchors on CKSB.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Brian Birchall, 1982

Maint: 7 Feb 2023

Sport 12m, 1
20 Moistened Bint

Start: Right next to the waterfall about 20m right of M.R. Can be done most of the time except at high water levels - grade 4 descent by Kayak when the river is in flood.

Up the slick wall past three bolts. Wires for the belay.

FA: Brian Cork, 1996

Sport 7m, 3
18 The Acolytes Cauldron

Start in the cauldron, mantle left, then diagonally right across the face to a bulging crux finish

FA: Brendan Heywood & Ben Vincent, 29 Jan 2023

Sport 10m, 3
The Schoolgirl Boulder
23 Shane's Wall

Originally a project but unknowingly stolen by an unknown, nefarious Brisbanite. Start: The left wall of the dihedral Directly up the wall past three bolts.

FA: Some Bloke, 1997

Sport 8m, 3
Thick as Thieves Area
19 Fingertip Control

A diagonal corner just left and up from Tipitina. Harder than it looks. Up a short steep slab, then thin awkward moves in the corner to top.

FA: Al Stephens & M. Peck, 1982

Sport 15m
Hope Buttress
15 Hubris

FA: Brendan Heywood, 1 Sep 2022

Sport 6m, 2
17 Cross wired

Start as for WWOS then diagonally right up the slab

FA: Brendan Heywood, 1 Sep 2022

Sport 8m, 4
Savage Amusement Buttress
22 Southern Comfort

The arete about 10m right of Poetic Justice. Technical crimps up the arete then traverse left to finish.

Sport 10m, 3
Unknown/Old Proj?

Two rings to double ring anchor 1m right of Inertia.

No information about this route, likely an unsent project. It is one of the earliest routes with glue in rings somewhere in the late 90's. Feel free to post info if available.

Sport 10m, 2
22 The Art of Misdirection

Start on the big jug on the corner about 5m left of 'Inertia'. Up and then technical traverse left across the face then up into cathedral roof for a good rest. Then a thrutchy exit through the roof, up the easy slab to anchors.

Sport 15m, 6
Psychosomatic Wall
22 The games climbers play

Start on the side pull and using the side block as a step (eliminating this will be very tough). Delicate crux right off the bat through the slopers and then progressively easier the rest of the way up, and then left to the shared anchor.

Sport 15m, 5
Illusion Buttress
19 Heavy Metal

A wall/arête route protected by bolts. The first route to use protection bolts on this crag. 4 BRs Friends or nuts for the belay. Up the wall, then the arête, connecting up the four bolts to the chain

FA: Al Stephens & Ed Sharpe, 1981

Maint: 17 Feb 2023

Sport 18m, 4
20 Heavy Metal - Direct Start

Below the arête just right of the original line. Up the arête passing two bolts to join the original route at it’s third bolt and on up to the chain.

FA: Al Stephens, 1994

Sport 18m, 4
Shooting Star Block
22 Joys of the Flesh

Just right of the small shrub, 3m right of S.S. Up through the bulge and onward to exit up shallow dihedral. 3 ring bolts in total to DBB

FA: Gordon Low & Jeff Gracie, 1995

Maint: 10 Mar 2023

Sport 8m, 3
Rodney's Direct

Direct project to Rodney's? Looks like the same bolts Audetat used back in the day.

SportProject 10m, 4
26 Rodney’s Garibaldi Metwurst

Originally a very dangerous route with the possibility of decking at the crux. Has since been rebolted to satisfy the trembling hordes. An absolute bum-stinger! Start: As for Sweet Surrender. Directly up from first bolt on S.S. then trending left from second bolt to third then up (fourth bolt) to exit up groove. Double-bolt belay.

FA: Ben Christian, 1995

Maint: 24 Feb 2023

Sport 10m, 4
29 Hitman

On the steepest section of rock directly below the second bolt on S.S. there is a bolt. Up past a BR to the 2nd bolt on S.S. Go up and slightly left past two more BR’s to top out. The BR to the right in the top section is still a project.

FA: Andreas Audetat, 1995

Maint: 10 Mar 2023

Sport 10m, 4
old hard proj

Extremely hard looking Audetat proj

SportProject 10m, 3
24 Sweet Surrender

Right trending seam right of Shooting Star. Along overhang past 3 bolts, then up past a 4th bolt over lip to top. DBB directly after lip.

Bring small wires to redirect the belay.

FA: Gordon Low, 1995

Maint: 2 Mar 2023

Sport 12m, 4
23 Trapeze

Start as for Sweet Surrender. but once you’ve clipped the fourth bolt step back down and continue traversing right to the big jug and another bolt (ignore the extra bolt in between - it’s for another route and is a real bastard to clip. From the jug haul onto the slab and up the seam (wire placement) and onto the S.S. belay bolts.

FA: Al Stephens & Gordon Low, 1995

Maint: 2 Mar 2023

Sport 15m, 5
28 Max

A power-endurance fest. Start: As for L.A. - clip first bolt from the block. Pump up to the jug on Trapeze then reverse this to the second bolt on R.G.M. Finish as for this route.

FA: Andreas Audetat, 1995

Maint: 17 Mar 2023

Sport 15m, 8
29 Super-Max

Start: 2-3m right of Low Flying Angel Same bolts. Boulder along under the roof (trying not to break your back) to join the original link-up and so on....

FA: Andreas Audetat, 1995

Maint: 17 Mar 2023

Sport 18m, 8
21 Low Flying Angel

An easy tick if you are short. Start: The large flake roof at the extreme right- hand end of the buttress. Lean off the block to clip the first bolt then step back under roof. Swing out to letterbox then flip up onto the slab and continue on past another bolt. Double-bolt belay

FA: Scott Clelland & Al Stephens, 1994

Maint: 17 Mar 2023

Sport 8m, 3
Black Dog Wall
25 Black Dog

Painfully thin and technical. Use double ropes, as the third bolt could be an ankle-breaker. Up trending right past four bolts to chain.

FA: Ben Christian, 1995

Sport 10m, 4
Roadblock Area
27 Wasp wall project

Start about 2m from the left end, just right of the wasps (which are not aggressive). Up through the horizontal breaks, then through the technical face past 2 hangers.

FA: Gordon Low

SportProject 12m, 2

Showing all 31 routes.

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