Routes as trad in Short Cool Ones Wall

Start ~5m right of ITOSE, at the first possible belay stance of the crag near a small tree. Slab moves are followed by easier terrain and a large flake just to the right. A couple of harder moves lead to a crack that looks better than it is. Up to a stance below the bulge. Once past the bulge run it out raversing left to the anchor of ITOS. Second to clean and rap. Tricky nuts comprise most of the gear on this one.

Look for the prominent jug on ITOS, about 6-7m up, and start 4m right of this. Or, alternatively, look for a prominent block, sticking out 15cm, about 10-12m up, the route starts below & right of this and heads up through an inverted "v" & much welcome gear. From the inverted "v", head left, towards the block (more gear), then keep trending slightly left, to ITOS anchors at the grass tuft above.

Now the second route at the crag; look for the prominent jug, about 6-7m up, up the double cracks, till they merge, straight up to grass tuft & anchors.

Start: about 5m left of ITOS, at a vague line of weakness, below the start of the overhanging blocks at the top. Easy climbing with spaced gear. Up to DBB & rap.

This is an old school grade 10, runout, with poor gear in the lower half, treat it as a 12. Start:

1. 35m 10 Roughly 10m left of WAD, at the shallow, right facing corner & cracked block. Up to this, offering some gear, then up slab above on scant gear, to blocks & vegetation, through this, up slab to headwall & continue through the roof, then trend right to a small ledge & tree belay (still there? 52yrs later?).

2. 45m 10 Up through roof & onto slab above & easier territory (no indication given as to belay options here).

Start: About 4m left of Avenger, below the shallow right facing corner. No gear for 10m, then small gear in corner, up this to shallow roof, step onto slab, up slab to a stance & trad belay below the main roofs about 15m up. From here, traverse 15m left to small tree & rap station.

Start: 5m left of Acquitted, at pockets below the smooth right facing corner. Up these on gear, then up the smooth corner with adequate gear available, slightly right at top blocks, up a thin crack to trad belay at 15m. Traverse 10m left to tree & rap station.

A hard 15. Start: about 3m left of OITC, the thin face crack, just right of the prominent Third Degree left facing corner. Now filled with ferns. Up thin crack on scant gear to roof & critical gear, over the rooflet, continue to trad belay, below big roofs. Traverse 10m left to tree & rap station.

Start: the prominent left facing corner, 1.5m left of Jury's Out. Layback up the corner on good gear to roof, traverse left to handcrack, mount this, up to large roofs above, then traverse 8m left to tree & rap station.

Rather daunting test piece. Start: the slab, 4m left of the Third Degree corner.

1. 35m 18 - First solid gear is the crack, at 15m. Up slab (there is gear in the flake, 2m on the right) on a wing & a prayer, to crack & critical gear, contine up to the big roofs above & a hard move through these, brings you to a good stance & BR. Continue up easy slab to BR & gear belay.

2. 45m - Follow the right trending line up, over a small bulge, and belay at blocks above. Walk left, along a ledge system, to find the Proven Guilty rap station.

Start: The thin crack/seam, 1.5m left of DSMNU. Not for the faint hearted: Up the thin seam, to the one & only piece of gear, at 10m, then continue up thin slab, to big blocks above, and step 2m left to tree & rap station.

Another test piece, with very limited trad gear. Start: 1.5m left of SPTW, directly below the tree. Up the seam, finding critical sparse gear placements as you go, to the tree & chain belay.

Another test piece of sparse gear. Start: Seam 1m left of Barracuda. Very thin holds up to marginal gear about 8m up, then better placements above that. Continue up to chains left of tree.

About 1m left of Mistaken Identity: thin crack or weakness in the rock. Up this, with no gear, to top, then traverse 2m right to rap anchors on MI. The original ascentist graded it at 10. I would take that with a grain of salt, especially given that there's no gear or protection on it. Bold Climbing.

Starts 2m left of The Lady with the Handbag. This route climbs under the tree rather than over it. Climb up on some delicate holds with no pro for the first 5 meters or so (crux) before reaching some nicely featured rock with better holds. Duck under the tree (sling the tree if you dare!), then continue up much more easily following the obvious groove/crack which provides mostly adequate gear placements. A few meters before reaching the overhangs, step right to traverse several meters across to the bolted anchors of Barracuda.

Start: 6m left of Mistaken Identity. As of 2023, with a fallen tree on the slab.

1. 20m - Climb up to & surmount the tree, now blocking the way, to the prominent crack, up this to the overhangs & trad belay.

2. 50m - Surmount the overhang, following a good crack, continue up the slab, on spaced gear, to a stance with good trad gear.

3. 15m - traverse left to DBB on PG.

Start 6m left of Mr. Lazyboots, 2m right of Dark and Stormy.

1. 50m 13 - Start: Up the crack/groove on slab for several meters to reach the large flake/overlap feature. Up and over the overlap, negotiating the annoying dead tree branch, on nice holds, eventually reaching a good stance. Step right to gain another flake/overlap in a small corner system, heading up this towards a grassy bush. Up over the bush, continuing up the lower angled wall, passing a bolt (byo hanger). Keep climbing up the crack/pockets for another 10m or so, until a very small tree is reached. Make a natural belay around here.

2. 20m 10 - Continue up the right trending crack/pockets, with sparse gear, but easy climbing to a double bolt belay at 20m (byo hangers). Note: The belay is just two bolts, with no hangers, chain, or rap mallion, so can be hard to spot.

Descent option 1: To rap from pitch 2 will require the joining of two 70m ropes to reach the ground. This will also require you to leave your own bolt plates/slings/mallion or carabiner, as there is no rap hardware on this anchor.

Descent option 2: Continue climbing the slab upwards to the scrub, bush bash through this, and eventually walking off to the tourist track off to the right.

Descent option 3: 1x60m rope - traverse left from pitch 2 anchors, about 15m, find the most stable looking tree, rap from this tree down about 10/15m to the top anchors of Proven Guilty, rap from here to the pitch 1 anchor, then to ground.

Start: 2m left of The Artful Dodger.

1. 35m 15 - Overcome the ferny start, to good pockets in crack, continue up face, where the gear becomes sparse, arriving at a good trad belay stance. (Note; there was a piton in the face, used on earlier ascents, on this pitch.)

2. 25m 10 - Continue up the pocketed face, trending left, to arrive at the DBB of PG.

Start: 3m left of DAS, initialled "AI".

1. 30m 17 - A spicy start, quite hard for the grade, to gain the pockets (pro) and then crack. Up the crack with good gear options for about 15 meters until you are faced with a bulge that has a left facing corner. Place marginal gear before tackling the tricky and runout bulge sequence. Continue up on little to no gear all the way to the chains.

2. 30m 14 - An easier and fun pitch. From the anchor step right to the crack. Head up crack with gear options available. Once the crack starts to run out at the lower angle slab, traverse diagonally left for several meters to the anchors on Proven Guilty.

Start: 4m left of Assumed Innocent, initialled "PG".

1. 30m 16 - Climbs the obvious slabby groove just left of Assumed Innocent. Hard start, after the route setter broke a key hold off, on the FA. This was originally graded a 13! Work the curved groove, to gain high BR, then easing a bit, to crack, up this, until gear starts to run out, then traverse right for 3 metres or so, no gear, to gain Assumed Innocent anchors.

2. 30m 14 - Step left and up from the anchors to regain the Proven Guilty crack that continues up on some marginal gear until a BR is reached below a bulge at 20m. Climb over or around the bulge (possible cam and nut placement just below the bulge), then run it out for a further 10m to the anchor on the left next to a small tree (shared anchor with Assumed Innocent).

Optional pitch

1. 40m 10 - Step right from the belay and head up past a couple of large pockets towards some small bushes. Continue up staying just left of the bushes, eventually reaching a tree-lined apron at about 20m. Squeeze your way between the trees for 10m to a small rock wall with a right facing corner. Up the corner for 10m to tree belay.

Descent option 1) Rap off tree, to Proven Guilty anchors.

Descent option 2) Continue on up to ledges, walk off right to hiker's track.

Start: 10m left of Proven Guilty, below the small tree, next to the projecting knob of rock.

1. 35m 14 - (As of 2023, the crack is chock full of ferns) Take the knobby face up to the tree, continue up on thin, but good holds to a welcome BR, about 10m above the tree, on the face out left, continue up to belay at the 35m mark, with good gear.

2. 25m 12 - Up, following the sparse gear on the face, until this peters out, then head right to the PG anchors & rap.

(NB: A piton runner was replaced by a carrot on p1)

Start: 4m left of WM, beneath the bulging block.

1. 45m 15 - Not an inspiring line, the run-out at the start, sets the mood for this route: run-out, with sparse gear. Up to BR(?), then block (& gear), continue up on spaced gear, to a belay stance & DBB.

2. 15m 13 - Traverse 10m right, on no gear, step down to diagonal crack, trend up R, towards the DBB belay on PG.

Start: 2m left of Short Circuit. Up the featured face, to the big block, and left side of this.

Start: 2m left of Sizzler, just right of leaning slab up to Burke's Backyard, a featured slab. Very bold climbing on thin gear. Will not see many ascents, with the first bolt at around the 18-20m mark.

1. 45m 17 - Up the thin pocketed slab to a small ledge, 10m up, then up the face, another 10m, to a very welcome BR, climb slightly right trending, past another 2 BRs, to a bulge & DBB.

2. 40m - Head 5m right, below overlap, to find gear, then up a thin line & pocketed face, aiming for a small corner system up above, mount this to reach a DBB.

Start: 1.5m left of Columbian Necktie, or 5-6m left of Short Circuit, at the right facing ramp, leading up to the crack. Bold climbing at the grade: big run-outs, esp. on p2.

1. 40m 14 - Up the easy ramp, to gain the crack system proper, up this to a good stance below some bushes & trad belay.

2. 40m - Follow a seamless overlap to a peg, small, sparse gear to the roof above, through this on good holds on the RHS, then squeak up to DBB & change pants.

Start: 3-4m left of Burke's Backyard, below shallow left facing, broken corner. Another bold route, with thin gear & run-outs, committing move at the crux (1st BR). Up to small ledge & follow the shallow corner, with small gear, to the BR on the left, past this, up to roof above, through this to another BR, then follow the shallow groove to a DBB.

Start: 2.5m left of WW, at the pocketed seam. More bold climbing at the grade.

1. 40m 15 - Up the pockets on good gear, passing a small bulge, up to anchors as for WW.

2. 35m - Up to the overlap, & small gear, then up the "flying flakes", with psychological protection, to the DBB & safety.

Start: As for Drop Zone, up to small rooflet/overlap, then up the left trending line on good gear. Either head left, to trad belay on Blackout, then finish up p2 of this, or, head right, to DBB on WW & rap from here. Gets 1* for good gear + no run-outs.

Start: 2m left of Drop Zone, pocketed crack, leading up to a small block.

1. 40m 16 - Follow the left leaning crack up, on good holds, but spaced gear, then move left to a tricky move, then up on easier moves, to a vertical crack & trad belay.

2. 45m - Head straight up for the white streaks on the slab above, sparse gear, to the bushes above. Once at these, head right to find DBB.

Start: About 3m left of Blackout, in the wide fern filled crack. Very tricky & dodgy gear placements up to first bolt = decking out is a possibility here, requires a confident leader, with a cool head. Bridge up the gap, finding gear as you go, committing move to bolt, then up passing another 2 BRs, to anchors.

Start: 1.5m left of Cut Short, at slab with vines growing across it. Up the blank slab to first bolt, then to anchors, passing another 2 BRs. Committing moves at the top, on no gear. A hard 16.

The first ascent was done just after the Port Arthur Massacre - and the subsequent gun buypack scheme, thus the name. It was also Neil's first ever use of a handrill - the tedium of bashing and twisting certainly controlled the bolt gun!

Starts 12m left of Guillotine (or 13-14m left of the big white gum).

1. 40m 14. Up the wall on big pockets till you arrive at a slab, up this delicately to a natural belay ledge with rap chains.

2. 48m 14. Traverse out right to a weakness in the rock, about 2m from belay ledge, then up through the overhang to face climbing above. Up this passing one FH, then continue up the slab for another 15m to a DBB.

3. 30m 10. Traverse out left along ledge to a slab, then straight across the slab to the prominent corner & tree belay at base of this.

4. 35m 12. Climb up to a big corner, & up this on good rock & trad protection, then a scree slope to belay tree. From this belay it is possible to escape the route via 150m scramble across right to the hiker's track, and down this.

5. 50m 2. Scramble up to the big red cave and the start of the next pitch.

6. 30m 10. Up the chimney on scant protection and dubious rock to a tree belay.

From here, continue up the ridge to the summit & down the hiker's track. To gain the ridge, a fun option is step onto the dome from the belay ledge and climb the crack/flake which has some nice moves with good pro for about 20m, to tree belay in the forest.

Variant finish to pitch 6 (if the chimney is slimy wet):

6b. 30m 16. Up chimney to a good hex placement, then out right onto a small ledge & up the face on good holds, but no pro, to tree belay.

Pitch 1 & 2 anchors replaced September 2021

35m left of Gun Control (Head on up the slope, past Gun Control, past the overhang, down the slope, to the prominent sports slab) The pocketed line, just right of Super Size Me (carroted route), behind a sapling. Up the slab, on large pockets & good gear, till it eases, then trend left, to a block & belay stance, about 10m below the big roofs. Escape: down-climb, trending slightly left, to chains on Super Size Me.

Start: 2m left of Super Size Me (carroted route), below the right facing corner. Nice, well protected face climbing. Up face, to first u-bolt out left, the up corner crack, passing 2 more u-bolts, chains up left, above Shanny.

Start: 3m right of the original start. Up the low angled arete, passing 2 BRs to a solid horizontal move back left, into the original line, then up to chains.

Start: 7m left (down the slope) from Two And A Half Squirts, the trad line LHS of the bulge. Good moves on solid, but small trad gear, passing one BR near top, to chains.

Start: Right of Just Juice, below the crack/slab. Tricky move up to a jug, then gear up to a stance & BR, past this, with good gear following, then take the easiest route to the top.

Start: 60m left, down the hill from Chocolates, near some large blocks on the ground.

1. 45m - 14 Take the thin line, towards a right facing corner, above a roof. Up steep twin seams on scant gear, to a grassy pocket, continue up on improving gear, then trend right as the angle eases, to a bolted belay below the prominent roof.

2. 50 19 - Crux move right off the belay, into the corner above, following 3 FHs, to a good stance, then gear placements (left), up slab over loose flakes, trending left, to DBB.

3. 50m - Straight up the slab, look for a thin crack & the only gear on this pitch, up the comparatively easy slab to a large terrace & TB. NB: the rap slings are probably worn: take one or two with & abseil back down the route.

Start: Left of Just Juice, in the depression with small knobs. Featured climbing up to a jug, then up to tree, continue on thin gear to first belay on Just Juice. Can be climbed in 2 pitches by belaying at the tree.

Start: Left of TOYH.

1. 45m 19 Up the slab, passing 2 BRs to chains - runout crux on the slab, at end of pitch!

2. __m 24+ Move right to 2 FHs & the hard roof/headwall, then move left.