Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Pinnacle Sector | |||||
17 | ★ Topless Dancer
1
17
35m
2
10
40m
3
13
20m
FA: M. Morrison, J. Moss, M. Scott & H. Zangerl, 1980 | 95m, 3 | |||
18 | ★ Unworthy of Uncle Bill's Climbing Network
1
17
25m
2
18
45m
3
16
10m
4
15
40m
FA: Unknown, 2004 | 120m, 4 | |||
17 | ★★ Red Revolution
1
15
25m
2
15
15m
3
9
15m
4
17
40m
5
12
25m
FA: P. A. Du Preez, E. Marais, J. Levy & A. Schoon, 1979 | 120m, 5 | |||
15 | ★ Flight of Icarus
1
10
23m
2
9
18m
3
13
12m
4
13
18m
5
15
28m
6
13
40m
FA: P. du Preez & A. Schoon, 1978 | 140m, 6 | |||
17 | ★ Astral Fugue
1
10
23m
2
9
25m
3
11
30m
4
17
10m
5
17
20m
6
11
25m
FA: A. Lainis & J. Gordon | 130m, 6 | |||
13 | ★ Cry Wolf
1
11
27m
2
11
30m
3
10
14m
4
7
18m
5
10
27m
6
13
45m
FA: A. Schoon & G. Ward, 1978 | 160m, 6 | |||
18 | ★★ Crack of Icarus
1
18
25m
2
18
20m
3
18
32m
4
18
18m
To access this route hike all the way to the South West gully following the base of the wolfberg mountain. Once at the gully, scramble up passing behind a tree. A cairn on the base of the first crack demarks the start of Crack of Icarus.
The descent is through the SW gully, starting with a hike and followed by a 30 meters rappel. FA: L. Tucker & B. Tucker, 2003 | 95m, 4 | |||
21 | ★★ Tucker for Two
1
20
30m
2
18
14m
3
21
20m
4
21
33m
5
18
20m
FA: J. Orton & C. Haumann, 2003 | 120m, 5 | |||
Goldrush Sector | |||||
21 | ★★ Joe Cool
1
13
22m
2
16
20m
3
21
25m
4
18
20m
FA: D. Shewell & Rik De Decker, 1995 | 87m, 4 | |||
15 | ★★ Midnight Confessions
1
13
22m
2
13
40m
3
15
20m
4
11
23m
FA: P. du Preez, J. Levy & A. Schoon, 1979 | 110m, 4 | |||
15 | ★★ After the Goldrush
1
15
28m
2
13
22m
3
10
40m
4
13
38m
FA: P. Du Preez, J. Levy & A. Schoon, 1979 | 130m, 4 | |||
19 | ★★ Return of Principle
1
15
30m
2
19
30m
3
12
10m
4
17
30m
5
18
20m
Start as for After the Goldrush. From the lowest level, scramble up a groove past a tree to the ledge 5m up. Move left to recess at the base of After the Goldrush.
Walk ~20m right to a large bush at the base of set vertical cracks.
FA: Richard Halsey, Dec 2015 | 120m, 5 | |||
22 | ★★ Undertow
1
15
25m
2
17
45m
3
22
35m
4
13
10m
Features a rising traverse of large undercling features. Start between After the Goldrush and Imposter.
FA: Richard Halsey, J. Wakeling & M. Penso, Jan 2016 | 120m, 4 | |||
13 | ★ Imposter
1
10
25m
2
13
38m
3
11
18m
4
7
22m
5
11
35m
FA: P. Du Preez, G. Ward, A. & A. Schoon, 1978 | 140m, 5 | |||
11 | ★★ Little Red Riding Hood
1
7
28m
2
10
25m
3
9
25m
4
10
30m
5
11
22m
FA: G. Ward, A. & A. Schoon, 1978 | 130m, 5 | |||
15 | ★★★ Grand-Mêre
1
15
27m
2
10
25m
3
15
28m
4
15
30m
5
15
11m
6
10
25m
FA: P. du Preez & A. Schoon, 1979 | 150m, 6 | |||
Quite Something Sector | |||||
22 | ★★★ The Last Hardman
1
19
30m
2
18
35m
3
22
20m
4
17
20m
Features an intimidating roof crack that is easier than it looks. Start as for the Original Route, at the base of a rectangular tower.
Walk several meters right and scramble up to below the obvious roof crack through the right-hand side of the huge roof.
FA: Richard Halsey, T. Bairstow & J. Wakeling, Dec 2015 | 110m, 4 | |||
14 | ★★ The Original Route
1
14
30m
2
14
30m
3
14
20m
4
14
25m
This route has two different starts. One that starts on a chimney that I found harder than a 14 and another classic 14 pitch that starts around 8 meters left of the chimney on an ledge. FA: Unknown | 110m, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ Snail Eyes
1
20
25m
2
18
40m
3
17
10m
4
17
25m
Start ~ 5m left of ‘’Molestor’’.
FA: Richard Halsey & J. Wakeling, Dec 2015 | 100m, 4 | |||
14 | ★★ Molestor
FA: A. Schoon, M. Scott & G. Ward, 1978 | ||||
19 | ★★ Destination Moon
1
18
45m
2
19
35m
3
15
35m
4
15
35m
FA: A. Wood & S. Larsen, 2010 | 150m, 4 | |||
18 | ★★ Destination Moon-Variation
1
18
45m
2
16
35m
3
15
35m
4
15
35m
| 150m, 4 | |||
17 | ★★ Quite Something
1
15
20m
2
17
18m
3
15
12m
4
15
40m
5
9
45m
FA: M. Scott & R. Smithers, 1979 | 140m, 5 | |||
Satisfaction Sector | |||||
18 | ★★ Prisoners of the Sun
1
18
45m
2
17
40m
3
18
25m
Walk past Eclipse and 20m right of ‘Quite Something’ is a large pile of blocks. Start at the top of the pile of blocks.
Pitch 2: Alternate (15): At the base of the crack head right for 4m and up the friendly jugs to the big ledge. Walk 40m left scrambling up a short ramp just to the right of the big gully until you are at the base of a small crack that cuts through a grey roof. FA: A. Wood, A. Hall & S. Larsen, 2010 | 110m, 3 | |||
18 | ★★ Prisoners of the Sun-Variation
1
18
45m
2
15
40m
3
18
25m
| 110m, 3 | |||
21 | ★★ The Ding Ding
1
18
30m
2
21
12m
3
16
15m
4
19
10m
5
15
40m
Start in the same place as Prisoners of the Sun, from the stack of blocks.
FA: Richard Halsey & R. Strate, Mar 2022 | 110m, 5 | |||
19 | ★★ Honey Bunny
1
15
20m
2
19
20m
3
18
30m
4
16
35m
Start just left of Eclipse
FA: R.Halsey & R. Strate, Nov 2019 | 110m, 4 | |||
13 | ★★★ Eclipse
1
10
25m
2
9
25m
3
13
35m
4
13
10m
5
11
25m
6
13
28m
FA: P. du Preez, G. Ward, A, A. & A. Schoon, 1978 | 150m, 6 | |||
22 | ★★ The Hippo and the Zebra
1
17
25m
2
22
20m
3
19
20m
4
16
35m
Start between Eclipse and Mad Dogs and Englishmen.
FA: Richard Halsey & T. Bairstow, Dec 2015 | 100m, 4 | |||
22 | ★★ Mad Dogs and Englishmen
1
19
22m
2
22
28m
FA: J. Orton & A. Ross-Innes, 1999 | 50m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Hunch Back
1
17
25m
2
20
20m
3
13
35m
4
19
18m
5
16
25m
FA: M. Roberts & A. McCann, 1995 | 120m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ Non Compos Mentos
1
20
26m
2
23
40m
FA: R. Behne, M. Scott, J. Orton & A. Ross-Innes, 1999 | 66m, 2 | |||
23 | ★★★ After Action Satisfaction
1
23
18m
2
21
30m
3
22
30m
4
18
40m
A direct, varied line crossing Satisfaction Guaranteed. The first pitch is a tad committing Start ~6m left of Satisfaction.
FA: Richard Halsey & M. Penso, Jan 2016 | 120m, 4 | |||
21 | ★★★ Straight Satisfaction
1
17
10m
2
19
40m
3
21
30m
4
16
35m
A direct ending to Satisfaction Guaranteed
FA: Richard Halsey & G. Jacobs, Feb 2016 | 120m, 4 | |||
19 | ★★ Satisfaction Guaranteed
1
17
10m
2
19
40m
3
15
25m
4
15
50m
The main feature on this route is the big left-leaning grey groove to the left of the overhanging bands on the south-west face. Start from the ledges directly below the groove.
FA: D. Davies & R. Barley, 1978 | 130m, 4 | |||
22 | ★★ The Luck of the Draw
1
22
23m
2
16
37m
3
16
18m
4
14
12m
FA: S. Bradshaw & Charles Edelstein, 1984 | 90m, 4 | |||
22 | ★★★ The Shortest Straw
1
22
23m
2
18
30m
3
19
18m
4
17
25m
FA: C. Lomax, R. Behne & Charles Edelstein, 2000 | 96m, 4 | |||
29 | ★★★ Romancing the Rock Hyacinth
1
21
30m
2
23
28m
3
29
16m
4
9
10m
5
16
25m
Crux pitch can be aided on #3 cam, bringing grade down to 23, A1 FA: J. Orton & G. Hagg, 1999 FFA: D. Birkett & T. Versveld, 2004 | 110m, 5 | |||
25 | ★★★ Project
1
25
15m
2
23
35m
FA: A. Roff & B. Roux, 1996 FFA: D. Birkett & T. Versfeld, 2004 | 50m, 2 | |||
BP Overhang Sector | |||||
22 | ★★ Roef
1
18
18m
2
20
20m
3
19
22m
4
22
10m
5
20
20m
6
15
50m
FA: G. Fish & M. De Villiers, 1998 | 140m, 6 | |||
19 | ★★ Day of the Jackals
1
15
18m
2
19
20m
3
12
35m
4
18
8m
5
10
35m
6
10
6m
7
13
30m
FFA: R. Barley, T. Barley & M. Scott, 1978 FA: P. du Preez & A. Schoon, 1978 | 150m, 7 | |||
22 | ★★★ Little White Mind Games
1
22
26m
2
16
12m
3
22
23m
4
20
40m
5
21
22m
6
22
18m
FA: J. Orton & G. Fish, 1998 | 140m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★★ Omega-Direct
1
23
20m
2
18
15m
3
15
22m
4
10
20m
5
18
18m
6
12
24m
7
15
16m
8
15
30m
FA: J. Orton, 2002 | 170m, 8 | |||
18 | ★★ Omega
1
13
23m
2
18
15m
3
15
22m
4
10
20m
5
18
18m
6
12
24m
7
15
16m
8
15
30m
FA: P. duPreez & A. Schoon, 1978 | 170m, 8 | |||
South-East Wall | |||||
23 | ★★ Gallow's Bird
1
23
10m
2
15
40m
3
18
30m
4
13
30m
A direct start to P1 (using the roof crack) brings the grade up to 25 (FA: C. Martinengo, 2007) FA: D. Davies & R. Barley, 1978 FFA: Andrew de Klerk & Greg Lacey, 1982 | 110m, 4 | |||
25 | ★★ Gallows Bird-Direct
1
25
10m
2
15
40m
3
18
30m
4
13
30m
FA: C. Martinengo, 2007 | 110m, 4 | |||
22 | ★★★ Wolfgang
1
22
40m
2
18
35m
3
20
15m
4
19
20m
5
18
25m
6
19
25m
7
17
30m
FA: S. Middlemiss & J. Fisher, 1988 | 190m, 7, 1 | |||
26 | ★★★ Ice Wolf
1
22
40m
2
26
45m
3
19
25m
4
17
30m
A harder variation to Wolfgang.
FA: B. Bransby & J. Samson, 1998 | 140m, 4, 1 | |||
29 - 31 | ★★★ Worlds Apart
Start as for Wolfgang, and then follow the line of bolts and seam up the wall to the anchor. Some trad gear is also required to protect the route. FA: P. Schlotfeldt & D. Shewell, 1991 | 40m, 6 | |||
25 - 27 | ★★★ Golden Brown
Start as for Worlds Apart, but move right and follow the line of bolts to the anchor. FA: J. Fisher, 1991 | 40m, 5 | |||
28 | ★★★ Wild Thing
Starts a few meters right of Wolfgang, off a big block. Follow the line of bolts to a small ledge, continue up the wall above to the anchor. Some trad gear also required to protect the route. FA: S. Maasch, 1991 | 25m, 5 | |||
22 | ★★★ Celestial Journey
1
22
35m
2
20
15m
3
22
30m
4
19
10m
5
21
20m
6
20
30m
FA: D. Davies & R. Barley, 1978 | 140m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ House of Games
1
17
15m
2
23
20m
3
21
20m
4
22
35m
5
21
8m
6
19
20m
7
17
18m
8
21
20m
FA: D. Shewell, J. Samson & A. Forsyth, 1988 | 160m, 8 | |||
23 | ★★ Stretch 'n Snatch
1
21
20m
2
23
35m
FA: J. Fisher & R. Suter FA: R. Suter & M. Gowans | 55m, 2 | |||
21 | ★★★ Afterglow
1
19
50m
2
21
40m
3
19
10m
4
18
20m
5
18
30m
FA: R. Smithers, M. Hafner & R. Barley, 1979 FFA: M. Roberts & C. Leslie-Smith, 1984 | 150m, 5 | |||
22 | ★★ Space Invader
1
22
45m
2
22
20m
3
15
15m
4
21
20m
5
21
30m
FA: J. Orton & M. de Villiers, 2000 | 130m, 5 | |||
19 | ★★ South-East Wall Composite Route
1
15
50m
2
13
20m
3
8
15m
4
18
15m
5
19
10m
6
19
10m
7
19
25m
8
17
30m
FA: M. Scott, N. Scott & M. Beeston, 1990 | 180m, 8 | |||
22 | ★★ Alone in Space
1
15
50m
2
22
20m
3
15
15m
4
19
33m
5
20
40m
6
9
5m
FFA: M. Roberts & R. Smithers, 1978 FA: D. Davies & R. Barley, 1978 | 160m, 6 | |||
13 | ★★ Wolf in Sheep's Clothing
1
12
25m
2
11
15m
3
13
35m
4
Abseil
15m
5
13
50m
6
9
30m
7
12
20m
8
13
20m
9
11
35m
FA: G. Ward & A. Schoon, 1978 | 250m, 9 | |||
23 | ★★★ Goodbye Blue Sky
1
23
28m
2
23
12m
FA: M. Hislop & S. Middlemiss, 1985 | 40m, 2 | |||
25 | ★★★ Whinge
1
19
20m
2
19
20m
3
25
15m
4
21
15m
5
21
25m
FA: C. Lomax & K. Smith, 1983 FFA: A. de Klerk & K. Smith, 1986 | 95m, 5 | |||
25 PROT:R - X | ★★★ Whinge Direct
1
19
20m
2
19
2015m
3
25 R - X
15m
4
21
25m
5
21
An alternative third pitch to Whinge taking the blank face left of the arete. NB: This route requires very small micro nuts and was head pointed on pre-placed gear.
FA: G. Patterson-Jones & Hilton Davies, 2011 | 2100m, 5 | |||
First Crack | |||||
18 | ★ Whine
FA: B. Roux & A. Roff, 1996 | 40m | |||
15 | ★★★ Little Red Rooster
1
13
30m
2
15
15m
3
15
20m
4
13
15m
FA: M. Roberts & R. Smithers, 1978 | 80m, 4 | |||
17 | ★★★ Mildred
On the Aretê right of 'Little Red Rooster' FA: D. Shewell, A. Forsythe & A. Wood, 1987 | 35m | |||
18 | ★★★ Pecking Duck
1
17
35m
2
18
35m
3
15
15m
Mildred has long been topless. Pecking Duck completes the line with something a little spicier than its classic neighbour ‘Little Red Rooster’
FA: A. Hall, M. Thilo, D. Nel & M. Young, 2013 | 85m, 3 | |||
20 | ★★★ Pecking Duck-Variation
1
20
35m
2
18
35m
3
15
15m
Mildred has long been topless. Pecking Duck completes the line with something a little spicier than its classic neighbour ‘Little Red Rooster’
FA: A. Hall, M. Thilo, D. Nel & M. Young, 2013 | 85m, 3 | |||
20 | ★★ BC
FA: J. Orton & C. Haumann, 2001 | 20m | |||
14 | ★★ Mellow and Mild
1
14
17m
2
14
24m
FA: J. Orton & H. van Rooyen, 2004 | 41m, 2 | |||
Energy Crisis Prow | |||||
27 | ★★★ Cold Fusion
1
20
2
19
3
21
4
27
5
16
FA: A. Hall & Hilton Davies, 2016 | 5 | |||
20 | ★★★ Energy Crisis
1
20
15m
2
15
35m
3
13
20m
4
18
10m
5
17
40m
6
17
25m
FFA: R. Barley, R. Smithers & M. Hafner, 1979 | 150m, 6 | |||
22 | ★★ Ballad of a Thin Man
1
22
30m
2
17
20m
3
19
30m
4
13
15m
5
17
25m
FA: J. Samson, B. Woods & B. Daniel, 1990 | 120m, 5 | |||
17 | ★★ Energy Supplement
FA: M. Scott & T. Hughes, 1993 | 120m, 4 | |||
19 | ★★★ Bioplus
1
17
35m
2
19
20m
3
18
30m
FA: J. Orton, G. Fish & E. Long, 1997 | 85m, 3 | |||
14 | ★ Lone Wolf
1
12
20m
2
14
23m
3
12
17m
4
8
15m
FA: N. Angelos & W. Martin, 1977 | 75m, 4 | |||
22 | ★★ Lord of the Rings
1
22
30m
2
22
15m
3
21
15m
FA: J. Colenso & P. Schlotveldt, 1987 | 60m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★ Silhouette
1
18
30m
2
22
15m
3
21
15m
4
15
25m
FA: C. Lomax & K. Smith, 1983 | 85m, 4 | |||
21 | ★★★ Old Timer's Disease
1
19
35m
2
19
20m
3
19
40m
4
21
15m
FA: D. Davies, Hilton Davies & R. Barley, 1992 | 110m, 4 | |||
Gaper Crack | |||||
21 | ★★★ Michelle Ma Belle
FA: J. Lienhöft & A. Roff, 1990 | 40m | |||
18 | ★★★ Knobless Robot
1
17
35m
2
18
15m
FFA: G. Robbins & J. Wright, 1988 | 50m, 2 | |||
19 | ★★★ Knobless Robot 'Direct"
Follow pitch 1 of Knobless Robot until you reach the traverse out right (which would have taken you to the original stance). Instead of moving out right, follow the crack directly up to the small ledge. Can be done as 2 pitches (stance on the small ledge before the traverse out left). | 50m | |||
24 | ★★ Peter's Arête
FA: P. Robbins, 1998 | 40m | |||
22 | ★★ Creature Feature
FA: J. Samson & J. Berrisford, 1988 | 40m | |||
Pegs
FA: Unknown | |||||
24 | ★★★ Skin Deep
Supplement the route with trad gear. FA: S Maasch, 1991 | 3 | |||
26 | ★★★ Red Rain
Supplement the route with trad gear. FA: J. Fisher, 1988 | 2 | |||
25 | ★★★ Sanbanessa
Supplement the route with trad gear. FA: J. Fisher, 1988 | 4 | |||
22 | ★★★ Excellent Birds
FA: J. Fisher, 1988 | ||||
18 | ★★ Pigs on the Wing
1
16
15m
2
18
13m
This is a really good route on good rock and gear. Start half way between Knobless robot and Baby robot pilars.
One can easily link up this two pitches. FA: S. Middlemiss, J. Fisher, M. Williams & B. Ferreira, 1988 | 28m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★★ The Jeremys' Arête
FA: J. Colenso & J. Samson, 1988 | ||||
24 | ★★ Say No To Seventeen
The Red Rain wall is flanked on the far side by a column with the Jeremy's Arete running on its edge. Around the corner there is an undercut crimpy face - the route starts about 1.5m to the right of the arete. Pull up to the good rail and place gear; a couple of hard moves gains the wall where there is a micro cam and a cunning nut placement (looks blank from the bottom); go straight up the face, tending right where the grips run out 2/3rds up and then moving left at the top to the ab point. FA: G. Lausman, 2013 | 20m | |||
19 | ★★★ Gurgi
This route starts on the face, 4 meters to the right of the arête of the crack corner of Pigs on the wing route and ends on 1 meter right of the arête. | 15m | |||
19 | ★ Jug Feast
FA: D. Davies & R. Barley, 1992 | 28m | |||
19 | ★★ Bucket Meal
FA: Unknown | ||||
18 | ★★ Birds on the Hoof
FA: J. Orton & C. Haumann, 1998 | ||||
17 | ★★ Short Crack to Freedom
FA: J. Orton & C. Haumann, 1997 | 20m | |||
21 | ★★ OL398
FA: J. Orton & C. Haumann, 1999 | ||||
14 | ★★ Fledgling
FA: J. Orton, 2000 | ||||
15 | ★ Saakie
Nice overhang 15 starting on the face that has afternoon shade just 4 meters of the Baby Robot pillar. | 25m | |||
19 | ★★ Black Eagle
FA: J. Orton & G. Hagg, 1999 |