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Routes as trad in East Face Towers

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Showing all 16 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
5+ The Great Siq Route
1 5
2 5+
3 5

FA: Tony Howard & di taylor, 1988

Trad 120m, 3
5+ Mumkin
1 5 15m
2 5+ 25m
3 5 25m
4 5+ 25m
5 5 35m

Nice short route at left end of the magnificent East Face of East Dome. Pleasant climbing in cracks and good rock with satisfactory protection. Descent by abseil on the route, take care ropes are jamming.

P1: Start the rip left of the little cave. 2-bolt-belay at ledge or combine with next pitch.

P2: Follow the corner crack sytem. Sling belay left of the ledge (for abseiling) or more comfortable gear belay at the ledge.

P3: Follow the crack, sling belay.

P4: Crux pitch, hard for 5+. Sling belay.

P5: Left leaning corner to the end.

FA: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 1986

Trad 130m, 5
6b+ Flight or Fancy

A nice corner just left from Inferno. Ends with traverse right to the Inferno bolt and abseils via it. Few bolts included.

Trad 6
6a - b Mad Frogs and Englishman
Trad 4
6b Inferno
1 5+
2 6b
3 5
4 5
5 6a

FA: Di Taylor, Wilf Colonna & Tony Howard, 1986

Trad 5
5c Walk like an Egyptian
1 5c
2 5b
3 5b
  1. 5c wide crack to your right, and a hidden crack to your left, committing, with a slight overhang move at the end.

  2. Climb straight up left wide crack, a bit hard to protect, chimney on the edges, use left face and body jam finding protection inside, good news ! you reach a station of 4 bolt!!

  3. Same style a bit easier

  4. The crux (Or not !) a traverse left to get to inferno line, that can be easy if you find the right line.

Form here you can try the 6a inferno pitch or just go down on inferno stations

Trad 100m, 4
6b The Mummy
Trad
6b Troubador
1 5
2 6b

Powerful archetypal laybackig and jamming.

FA: 1986

Trad 2
5b Wall of Lace
1 3b
2 3b
3 5b
4 2b

FA: 1987

Trad 4
6a Live and Let Die
1 3
2 4
3 5+
4 4
5 6a
Trad 5
5c Goldfinger
1 4c
2 5c
3 5b

Goldfinger goes up the small pillar that resembles a hand giving the finger, in the middle of the east face of Jebel Rum.

No belays are bolted.

P1: Start up the cracks up and right along to a belay below the obvious crack and chimney (5a, 55m), Build your own anchor.

P2: Climb the finger crack to a big ledge (6a, 35m) (5+ if you know how to finger jam), build your own anchor.

P3: Climb up and left in a corner and proceed further to the very top of the Goldfinger pillar(5b, 20m).

Descent in four rappels down the left (Troubadour) side of the pillar. Rapps on this side are bolted

FA: Wilfried Colonna & G. Claye, 1986

Trad 150m, 3
6b Inshallah
1 6b
2 4c
3 6a

First 4 pitches of "The Inshallah Factor".

Trad 4
6c+ A1 Arthurs Hammmer
1 5b
2 6c+
3 6b+ A1
4 6b
5 6c

FA: 1992

Trad 5
7a Ziggurat
1 6a
2 7a
3 7a
4 5c

FA: 1986

Trad 4
6b Rainbow Warrior
1 6a
2 6b
3 5c
4 6a

First 4 pitches of "Aquarius".

FA: 1986

Trad 4
7a Ride Mit Camel

Soft rock that comes out in chunks! Not great quality and SCARY we bailed after 2 pitches.

Trad

Showing all 16 routes.

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