Showing all 25 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.12a | ★★ Falling sideways
New one at Upper Wall. Start on a boulder left of Bataille. FA: evan hau | 14m, 6 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Bataille
Starts to the left of The Warm Up- between two boulders on the ledge. Head up the grey and yellow streaks to the chains. FA: Dale Robinson, 1994 | 10m, 5 | |||
5.11b | ★ Dale's Extender
Climb the warm up or Bataille following a pockets line of bolts to the left and finish at a long chain anchor | 14m, 9 | |||
5.13b | ★★ The Angry Inch
From the top of Dales Extender, execute one really hard move off a mono. This route might be a very fast tick if you have tendons of steel! It might also end your climbing season...... FA: Jd LeBlanc, 2000 | 25m, 11 | |||
5.11a | ★ The Warm-Up
Not a great warm up but its all there is. Perma draws also which is nice. Start at the bottom of the small, left trending ramp and follow the blue streak to the anchor. FA: Shep Steiner, 1996 | 10m, 4 | |||
5.13c | ★ Porthole to Hell
Climb The Warm-Up then follow a blue streak through a scoop on thin holds above. Gun for a big hole in the yellow rock and then run it out on easy terrain to the top. Set: Shep Steiner FA: Scott Milton, 2000 | 23m, 7 | |||
5.13c | ★★★ Sweet Thing
This popular line is a good introduction to the harder climbing at the crag. Start to the left of a shallow, right-facing corner and follow a blue streak to two cruxes separated by a poor rest. FA: Todd Guyn, 1994 | 23m, 9 | |||
5.13c | ★★★ Whale Back
Follow a small blue streak to a roof. Beautiful climbing on pockets and pods lead to an amazing crux pulling onto the "whale back". Finish on a steep headwall. FA: Scott Milton, 2000 | 23m, 9 | |||
5.12d | ★★★ Jingus Americanus
Seriously, Yankees go home....jks. But seriously don't bring your ego to Acephale tourists The most popular 12D in Alberta. Polished, steep, pumpy and short. From the ledge, climb over a chossy section into a (12b) crimpy move, gaining a corner. The "crux" is at the top of the corner and involves a big slap to a sloper from a pocket. Part of the difficulty in this route is clipping the chains, so if you want the 12D tick, don't but any long draws or slings on the anchor!! FAists words. FA: Daren Tremaine, 1993 | 14m, 6 | |||
5.13d | ★ Fully Jingus
Climb Jingus Americanus to the big slap move. Veer left on pods to hard moves on small holds slapping up the bulge. | 26m, 10 | |||
5.12c | ★★ Copocobana
Start to the left of a yellow corner capped by a roof. From the ledge, pull the roof and head left into a scoop. Continue left to a finish on Jingus Americanus. FA: scott milton | 14m, 7 | |||
5.14d | ★ Full Nelson
Climb Half Nelson but continue up beautiful grey rock to an impossible looking crux. Set: Evan Hau FA: Alex Megos, 2016 | 27m, 11 | |||
5.12d | ★★ Half Nelson
Climb a small right facing corner before pulling a short overlap to reach two bolts worth of compact grey rock. Trend left on pockets to finish on the anchor of Jingus Americanus. FA: Evan Hau, 2013 | 14m, 6 | |||
5.13b | ★★ The Hype
Start to the right of a yellow corner capped by a roof. Follow the blue streak on edges and pockets to a high crux. Manufactured and glued. FA: Jd LeBlanc, 1997 | 23m, 10 | |||
5.13b | ★★ The Hood
From the shattered ledge, head up to the horizontal break and veer left. Difficult moves in the overhanging lead into a scoop. Finish with easier climbing on cool pockets. This boulder problem is probably the most tried 5.13 in Alberta. Basically a v8 boulder problem. Set: Jd LeBlanc FA: Todd Guyn, 1995 | 18m, 9 | |||
5.13c | ★★ Hairball
Retro bolting has eliminated 2 cruxes (clips), and it is now easier than when first climbed. Plus it is actually worth climbing now, as before it was a turd. | ||||
5.12c | ★★ Altius
This classic has continuously powerful all the way to the bathtub rail. Finish up a small corner FA: Daren Tremaine, 1993 | 15m | |||
5.14a | ★★ Angst
This is the left most route out of the small cave. Finish on the anchors of Altius FA: Evan Hau, 2012 | 15m, 8 | |||
5.13d | ★★ Hairball Direct Finish
A heinously blank and runout steep slab above Hairball. Tried by many strong lads over the years but took the worlds strongest fingers needed to free this line of nothing slab. FA: Adam Ondra, 30 Nov 2016 | 2 | |||
5.13c | ★★ Beam Me Up Scotty
Start in The middle of the chossy ledge and crimp upward to the roof. Big moves and cryptic footwork end with a wild swing. A few tough moves close the deal. FA: Lev pinter, 2005 | 13m, 6 | |||
5.14b | ★★ The Shine
Climb directly out the centre of the steep overhang. A bouldery crux leads to the safety of large pods above FA: Joe Kinder, 2012 | 18m, 9 | |||
5.14c | ★★ Kinder Surprise
Climb out the right side of the steep overhang and directly into the desperate crux. At the headwall, finish up Bunda De Fore. | 20m, 11 | |||
5.14d | ★★★ Bunda De Fora
Start on the right side of the chossy ledge. A very powerful crux negotiates the roof. FA: Lev pinter, 2006 | 20m, 11 | |||
5.14c | ★★ Prime Time
Similar to its neighbors, Two powerful cruxes separated by a poor rest. Set: Derek Galloway FA: Josh Muller, 2012 | 17m, 9 | |||
5.14c | ★★ First Flight
Climb through the first crux of Prime Time before traversing right and finishing up First Flight Direct Project. Set: Lev Pinter FA: Josh muller, 2014 | 20m, 14 |
Showing all 25 routes.