Showing all 20 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
24 | ★ Fruit Punch
Left facing blank corner then bulging face above with crazy fist jam crux in pocket. A bit dirty. Crux can be avoided by climbing right into 'Forbidden Fruits' at grade 23. Six bolts and lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006 | 17m, 6 | |||
20 | ★ Forbidden Fruits
Sustained reachy pockets up wall just right of 'Fruit Punch'. A fantastic warm-up for the upper tier routes. Five FHs and lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith, 2006 | 17m, 5 | |||
15 | ★ The First Crusade Pitch 1
The easiest sport route in the Grampians? This is the sport climbers approach pitch to the upper tiers of the 'Ruined Castle'. Starts 4m left of 'A Good Day Out'. Five FHs up slabby marbled wall. Belay off bolt anchor at back of ledge. Start: Starts 4m left of 'A Good Day Out'. FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson | 20m, 5 | |||
20 | ★ Spent
There is no lower off on this climb. Either top out and build a trad anchor or lower off a single bolt/leaver biner Set: Neil Montieth & Jono Schmidt, 2012 | 12m, 5 | |||
19 | Slow Roasted Piggy
Easiest line up through the second tier. Awkward mantle onto ledge then up steep weakness in left side of roof. Ramble up choss to top. Four FHs. FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2006 | 20m, 4 | |||
23 | ★★ The First Crusade Pitch 2
Steep thugging then easy wall. 7 FHs and lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006 | 20m, 7 | |||
26 | Growling Dog
| 14m, 5 | |||
24 | ★★ Game of Thrones
Start Up Blood letter to the third bolt then head straight up past 3 more fixed hangers to a double bolt belay on a ledge. FFA: adam demmert & ross taylor, 2012 | 15m, 6 | |||
24 | ★★ Blood Letter
Big roof excursion. Cuts a rightward leading diagonal line through the big roofs on the right of the second tier. Juggy start to slab, swing out through roof and heel hook rightwards to lip. Crank onto steep juggy headwall then finish up easy slab. 8 FHs and lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 17m, 8 | |||
21 | ★ Alexius
Very reachy crux. Starts at the right edge of the second tier at juggy rib. Up this for 3m then swing left onto hanging wall and jug up onto face. Easily up slab to finish as for 'Blood Letter'. Inconsistent. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 16m, 5 | |||
24 | ★ War Horse
Outrageous positions up the crazy giant plates on the left side of the ledge. Finish up headwall (out of sight of the belayer). 7 RBs. FA: Neil Monteith & Mark Gould, 2006 | 19m, 7 | |||
26 | ★★ Siege Machine
Straight up the guts of the steepest tallest bit of the crag with some very creative moves in the middle. Slopers, jugs and then final killer headwall. Use a sling on the fifth bolt to avoid the rope cutting plate. Start: Starts 4m left of The First Crusade. FA: Neil Monteith, 2006 | 20m, 7 | |||
24 | ★★ Jerusalem
Unrelenting steepness. Start at the impressive pillar of prehistoric birdpoo. Scuttle left and out through roof and up endless jugs and steepness above past a few giant heucos. 6 FHs. FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt, 2006 | 17m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ The First Crusade Pitch 3
Superb orange scoop with tricky roof start - now made much harder after a key hold broke down low (prob grade 25+ now). Starts directly above rap rings. 7 bolts. FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006 | 17m, 7 | |||
22 | ★★★ Christendom
Brilliant. A easier variant start to The First Crusade that eliminates the brutal roof. Start up heucos on the left edge of the right wall then trend left to join into TFC at its 4th bolt. FA: Neil Monteith | 17m | |||
25 | ★★ Emphysema
Probably hard 24 but we couldn't give 'another' route at this crag grade 24. The direct line between First Crusade Pitch 3 and 'Catapult'. Start as for 'Christendom' but instead of traversing off left keeping cranking up the direct line. Quite sustained in the upper half. Six FHs and loweroff. FA: Neil Monteith & Tim Storey, 2007 | 15m, 6 | |||
24 | ★★ Catapult
A wild dyno! Slopey orange goodness from start to finish up the giant heucos. 5 FHs. Starts 2m left of Nicea. FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006 | 15m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★ Nicaea
Nice orange bulges - but a shabby first few metres. 4 FH's. Start: Starts on the far right of the wall at end of fixed rope. FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006 | 15m, 5 | |||
19 | ★ Retaliation
Furthest right of the bolted lines. FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2012 | 15m, 5 | |||
20 | ★ The First Crusade Pitch 4
Short but sweet face pitch right on the top of the crag! 3 FHs and single bolt lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006 | 8m, 3 |
Showing all 20 routes.