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Routes as sport in Ruined Castle

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Showing all 20 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
24 Fruit Punch

Left facing blank corner then bulging face above with crazy fist jam crux in pocket. A bit dirty. Crux can be avoided by climbing right into 'Forbidden Fruits' at grade 23. Six bolts and lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

Sport 17m, 6
20 Forbidden Fruits

Sustained reachy pockets up wall just right of 'Fruit Punch'. A fantastic warm-up for the upper tier routes. Five FHs and lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

Sport 17m, 5
15 The First Crusade Pitch 1

The easiest sport route in the Grampians? This is the sport climbers approach pitch to the upper tiers of the 'Ruined Castle'. Starts 4m left of 'A Good Day Out'. Five FHs up slabby marbled wall. Belay off bolt anchor at back of ledge.

Start: Starts 4m left of 'A Good Day Out'.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson

Sport 20m, 5
20 Spent

There is no lower off on this climb. Either top out and build a trad anchor or lower off a single bolt/leaver biner

Set: Neil Montieth & Jono Schmidt, 2012

Sport 12m, 5
19 Slow Roasted Piggy

Easiest line up through the second tier. Awkward mantle onto ledge then up steep weakness in left side of roof. Ramble up choss to top. Four FHs.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2006

Sport 20m, 4
23 The First Crusade Pitch 2

Steep thugging then easy wall. 7 FHs and lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

Sport 20m, 7
26 Growling Dog
Sport 14m, 5
24 Game of Thrones

Start Up Blood letter to the third bolt then head straight up past 3 more fixed hangers to a double bolt belay on a ledge.

FFA: adam demmert & ross taylor, 2012

Sport 15m, 6
24 Blood Letter

Big roof excursion. Cuts a rightward leading diagonal line through the big roofs on the right of the second tier. Juggy start to slab, swing out through roof and heel hook rightwards to lip. Crank onto steep juggy headwall then finish up easy slab. 8 FHs and lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

Sport 17m, 8
21 Alexius

Very reachy crux. Starts at the right edge of the second tier at juggy rib. Up this for 3m then swing left onto hanging wall and jug up onto face. Easily up slab to finish as for 'Blood Letter'. Inconsistent.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

Sport 16m, 5
24 War Horse

Outrageous positions up the crazy giant plates on the left side of the ledge. Finish up headwall (out of sight of the belayer). 7 RBs.

FA: Neil Monteith & Mark Gould, 2006

Sport 19m, 7
26 Siege Machine

Straight up the guts of the steepest tallest bit of the crag with some very creative moves in the middle. Slopers, jugs and then final killer headwall. Use a sling on the fifth bolt to avoid the rope cutting plate.

Start: Starts 4m left of The First Crusade.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

Sport 20m, 7
24 Jerusalem

Unrelenting steepness. Start at the impressive pillar of prehistoric birdpoo. Scuttle left and out through roof and up endless jugs and steepness above past a few giant heucos. 6 FHs.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt, 2006

Sport 17m, 6
23 The First Crusade Pitch 3

Superb orange scoop with tricky roof start - now made much harder after a key hold broke down low (prob grade 25+ now). Starts directly above rap rings. 7 bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

Sport 17m, 7
22 Christendom

Brilliant. A easier variant start to The First Crusade that eliminates the brutal roof. Start up heucos on the left edge of the right wall then trend left to join into TFC at its 4th bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith

Sport 17m
25 Emphysema

Probably hard 24 but we couldn't give 'another' route at this crag grade 24. The direct line between First Crusade Pitch 3 and 'Catapult'. Start as for 'Christendom' but instead of traversing off left keeping cranking up the direct line. Quite sustained in the upper half. Six FHs and loweroff.

FA: Neil Monteith & Tim Storey, 2007

Sport 15m, 6
24 Catapult

A wild dyno! Slopey orange goodness from start to finish up the giant heucos. 5 FHs. Starts 2m left of Nicea.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

Sport 15m, 5
21 Nicaea

Nice orange bulges - but a shabby first few metres. 4 FH's.

Start: Starts on the far right of the wall at end of fixed rope.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

Sport 15m, 5
19 Retaliation

Furthest right of the bolted lines.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2012

Sport 15m, 5
20 The First Crusade Pitch 4

Short but sweet face pitch right on the top of the crag! 3 FHs and single bolt lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

Sport 8m, 3

Showing all 20 routes.

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